Coach has engine vapors on the road

J

jack christensen1

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Mar 30, 2008
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When I start my coach, it usually starts OK. I take off and in a few seconds, it starts to stutter. The engine misses and I have little power. If I
hold the throttle down full, it'll stutter along at 15 mph in low gear for up to 5 minutes, then things clear and it runs well. This doesn't happen
every time, but most times. There is occasionally a little power loss at full throttle.

So, because of the throttle loss, I pulled out the filter on the carb. No noticeable difference.

I have in-tank fuel pumps and changing from one tank to another doesn't make any difference.

So, I'm thinking this may be an ignition problem and I should change the ignitor and the coil. Am I on the right track??

Thanks
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
 
If your fuel situation is good it may be cracked intake manifold---
--
KRFJKM
Jim Morgan
Charlotte NC

1978 Palm Beach

Also have a 1965 Corvair Corsa
 
Sounds as though it may be the choke out of adjustment or sticking.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
 
The symptoms you describe are like a bad flashback for me. I have nearly no carburetor skills and after determining that my ignition was tip-top I had Jim K replace the manifold.

Then asked them to massage the carb.

Then I bought the full-boat Howell set up and life was good.

Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
Fremont, Ca
Sent from my iPhone

>
> Sounds as though it may be the choke out of adjustment or sticking.
> Hal
> --
> 1977 Royale 101348,
>
> 1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
>
> 1975 Eleganza II, 101230
>
> 1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Larry,

I Wonder why you went away from the carb. Didn't Applied fix your carb so that Things worked?
--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, Germany
 
No one liked my thoughts about changing the coil or ignitor, so I'll return to fuel. Thanks for the idea on the carb. I had thought about it and
checked the wiring to the electric choke which was OK, so now I'll check further. Not much I can do about a cracked intake manifold on the road so if
that's it, I'll have to live with it until I get home.

Jack, stumbling along in Carson NV.
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
 
Peer,

The carb was worn but ultimately the geek in me wanted the shiny new toys. I'm so glad I did because even though the coach hasn't been used for some time it still fires up with just a crank.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> No one liked my thoughts about changing the coil or ignitor, so I'll return to fuel. Thanks for the idea on the carb. I had thought about it and
> checked the wiring to the electric choke which was OK, so now I'll check further. Not much I can do about a cracked intake manifold on the road so if
> that's it, I'll have to live with it until I get home.
>
> Jack, stumbling along in Carson NV.
> --
> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
> Sebastopol, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Jack, the next time it does that, Stop the coach safely. Open the hatch and
remove the top of the air cleaner. (one wing nut). Observe the position of
the choke plate. It should be standing nearly straight up and down. If it
is closed, that is the problem, overchoking, an adjustment is in order.
Or, quite possibly, some lubrication of the linkage on the passenger side
of the carb is in order. Spray a couple of blasts of wd-40 or some such
stuff, and work the throttle a bit. Should free it up. If you do not know
how to adjust the choke, take it to someone who does. Basic adjustment goes
like this. STONE COLD ENGINE. Remove air cleaner. Press ONLY ONCE on the
gas pedal. You should hear a click, and the choke plate should have snapped
closed. Take your index finger of your dominant hand and lightly push the
choke plate on the rear portion of it. It should move with almost no effort
on slight finger pressure. If it takes considerable pressure, it is
adjusted too tightly. Loosen, (do not remove) the three screws on the black
thermostatic choke coil housing, and unwind the spring until the choke
plate moves towards open. Then, reverse direction until choke plate just
comes to a close. Hold that position and tighten the three screws. That's
it. EZ PZ.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

No one liked my thoughts about changing the coil or ignitor, so I'll return
to fuel. Thanks for the idea on the carb. I had thought about it and
checked the wiring to the electric choke which was OK, so now I'll check
further. Not much I can do about a cracked intake manifold on the road so
if
that's it, I'll have to live with it until I get home.

Jack, stumbling along in Carson NV.
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA

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Larry Davick schrieb/wrote
> The carb was worn but ultimately the geek in me wanted the shiny new toys.

Can't argue with that one :-D

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, on a roro
 
What Hal said. Look for the simple fixes first.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Ignition module is easy. Remember per Smokey "80 per cent of carb problems are ignition related."

Hal Kading 78 Buskirk Las Cruces NM
 
Thanks all for guiding me to focus on fuel and not go off into the weeds on ignition.

Jim Hupy's post led me to the solution. Rather than waiting for another event as he suggested, I decided to implement his solution for freeing up the
choke which solved the problem. Thanks Jim.

So, back on the road again and back into CA at Georgetown.

But, the adventure continues. Just as I was driving to our friends, I heard a ping and the fan clutch failed, so now I'm listening to it all the
time. As far as I know, it's the original. I'm sure replacement is the solution. I know finding the right one is difficult so recommendations are
appreciated.

Thanks again for all your help!
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
 
Jack, at the risk of re-igniting the "fan clutch war", I'll tell you that I have had the best success with the 2797 clutch. I have had a failure of
this one too, but less than with others. A good one of these seems to be working well for both the Stretch and the "77. Good luck!
--
John Shutzbaugh, Vacaville, CA, ncserv;
77 Eleganza, bought it new, can't blame PO, and
78 Buskirk stretch, "What were we thinking?"
 
Have people had success going to an electric temperature controlled fan?

On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 12:36 PM, John Shutzbaugh
wrote:

> Jack, at the risk of re-igniting the "fan clutch war", I'll tell you that
> I have had the best success with the 2797 clutch. I have had a failure of
> this one too, but less than with others. A good one of these seems to be
> working well for both the Stretch and the "77. Good luck!
> --
> John Shutzbaugh, Vacaville, CA, ncserv;
> 77 Eleganza, bought it new, can't blame PO, and
> 78 Buskirk stretch, "What were we thinking?"
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
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