Clearance lights

[Billygoat]

I was just checking on how many clearance lights we need and it appears all 5 are needed but I wonder if I could move the position on the corner lights up away from the siderails a bit. They are right on top of the zip dee clam shell attachment, which I have on both sides of the coach.

 

[Kendra]

It's not easy to read but you can go to the .gov source, eCFR (electronic Code of Federal Regulations) for 393.11, Lamps and Reflective Devices.

Our 96" wide GMCs have clearance lights for the same reason dually pickups need them; vehicle exceeds 80" (2032mm) width. eCFR doesn't define the precise location; just says they need to be "as close as practicable" to the upper corners viewed from front & back, and not obscured by other items.

In this illustration on the .gov site, #3 & #7 are a cluster of three lights each, and #2 & #6 are in the upper corners (5 front clearance lights + 5 rear clearance lights).

 

[Richard RV]

I was just checking on how many clearance lights we need and it appears all 5 are needed but I wonder if I could move the position on the corner lights up away from the siderails a bit. They are right on top of the zip dee clam shell attachment, which I have on both sides of the coach.

I followed the lead of others and moved my passenger side light up a few inches. The Zip Dee installation instructions show the light needs to be moved, but their method of running the wire is less than desirable.


I drilled a hole through the outer cap, fished the existing wire through the new hole and patched the old hole. No exposed wire and no wire under the awning rail.

It's not a difficult project. I'm pretty sure the photo site has an album walking you through the procedure. It can all be done from above so there's no need to mess with the inner cap.

 

[RoadTrippin]

I followed the lead of others and moved my passenger side light up a few inches. The Zip Dee installation instructions show the light needs to be moved, but their method of running the wire is less than desirable.

View attachment 18965
I drilled a hole through the outer cap, fished the existing wire through the new hole and patched the old hole. No exposed wire and no wire under the awning rail.

It's not a difficult project. I'm pretty sure the photo site has an album walking you through the procedure. It can all be done from above so there's no need to mess with the inner cap.

Replacing all my clearance lights soon with new Grote led lights. Was wondering why the last rear light had its wires exposed. Now I know

 

[Billygoat]

I followed the lead of others and moved my passenger side light up a few inches. The Zip Dee installation instructions show the light needs to be moved, but their method of running the wire is less than desirable.

View attachment 18965
I drilled a hole through the outer cap, fished the existing wire through the new hole and patched the old hole. No exposed wire and no wire under the awning rail.

It's not a difficult project. I'm pretty sure the photo site has an album walking you through the procedure. It can all be done from above so there's no need to mess with the inner cap.

Yep, was thinking the same this morning over coffee. It should hopefully help with sealing the light a bit better since it will be resting on a flatter surface. It hopefully clean up some leakage issues around that area for me.

 

[Richard RV]

Yep, was thinking the same this morning over coffee. It should hopefully help with sealing the light a bit better since it will be resting on a flatter surface. It hopefully clean up some leakage issues around that area for me.

Besides using the foam gasket that came with the light, I've started adding an additional layer of self-adhesive closed cell foam bonded to the first gasket. It helps conform to the coach contours and adds a little bit more compressibility. I push down on the light while I'm tightening up the screws, and will do another round of screw tightening when the coach has been in direct sun on a hot day.

 

[RoadTrippin]

Are you guys adding any sealant around the foam gaskets?

 

[Richard RV]

Are you guys adding any sealant around the foam gaskets?

Nope. I've replaced OEM jack nuts with sealed end well nuts and used a goober of butyl to seal the wire hole. A little butyl donut helps seal under the head of the screw.