Chassis Grease

Bob Dunahugh

New member
Sep 17, 2012
2,784
4
3
Subject change. My Bobcat skid steer end loader is picky on what grease I use. Brand doesn't seem to be the issue. It's the cost. With cheep grease in the grease gun. The grease last about 2 hours of operation. High price grease can go all day plus. Bob Dunahugh
 
At the general 2 hour mark. I start getting the sound of metal to metal. Coming from the bushing bearings at the end of hydraulic cylinders, and bucket joints on my Bobcat end loader. The load on these pivot points is HUGE. Cheep grease just can't maintain a good lube film under heavy loads. I use Valvoline Synthetic grease for everything. I want a great grease that can protect my rear suspension pins. There are other brands that can perform to the same standards. It goes back to. You get what you pay for. Grease is CHEEP. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale.

________________________________
From: Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 1:12 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Chassis Grease

Subject change. My Bobcat skid steer end loader is picky on what grease I use. Brand doesn't seem to be the issue. It's the cost. With cheep grease in the grease gun. The grease last about 2 hours of operation. High price grease can go all day plus. Bob Dunahugh
 
I totally agree. You and Matt agree that grease is cheap, parts are expensive. It fixed my squeaking laptop fan with a pin head amount where no other
miracle lubricant would work. About 7 years now still good. Also used it on bath fan bearings in coach by putting it on fingertip and mushing it in.
Oiling the motor only lasted a few days where this lasts years. Might try on dash blower bearings on a qtip if I can get in through cooling hole.
Logic would say a light oil is better but I'm proving that wrong.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
So, I would like to go around and hit everything, anything showing where all the zerts are at?

Tom
76 Eleganza2
KCMO
 
> So, I would like to go around and hit everything, anything showing where all the zerts are at?
>
> Tom
> 76 Eleganza2
> KCMO

Tom,

Here is an off the cuff list....
Upper and lower ball joints at the knuckles (makes 4)
Inner and outer tie rod ends (makes 4)
The original idler arms have none (Whew, but check that)
The relay lever has one at the intermediate rod (or cross rod), one at the pivot and one at the joint to the drag link (that is three)
There is one at the drag link to the pitman arm (the lever at the steering box (1 more)
Then there are two in the steering shaft that are a bear. One is in the middle the slip shaft and there is one hidden it the cardin (universal) joint
just on top of the steering box. (That is 2 more)

That is the common 14 in the front. Do not expect to get to them and stay clean (that just ain't happenin).

There are the 4 more (could be 8 on '76) at the bogies.

Remember, Grease is cheaper than parts.....

I can't get at mine with a rigid snout grease gun, but trying to get the coupler on and have it stay with a flexible hose has been an exercise in
futility. I am using a one handed gun so I can hold the coupler on with one hand and pump with the other. Be cautious if using an air powered gun as
they often sound like they are pumping grease when nothing is happening. I found a cordless electric that looked promising, but the price was an
issue. (A REAL BIG issue.)

Good Luck

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt go to the LocknLube site. That have an end for the flexibly line of your grease gun that will free up your hands to properly use the pump. I also bought their “boot” that goes over the end of the grease gun to keep it from dripping.
I doould have bought these things years ago.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>

>> So, I would like to go around and hit everything, anything showing where all the zerts are at?
>>
>> Tom
>> 76 Eleganza2
>> KCMO
>
> Tom,
>
> Here is an off the cuff list....
> Upper and lower ball joints at the knuckles (makes 4)
> Inner and outer tie rod ends (makes 4)
> The original idler arms have none (Whew, but check that)
> The relay lever has one at the intermediate rod (or cross rod), one at the pivot and one at the joint to the drag link (that is three)
> There is one at the drag link to the pitman arm (the lever at the steering box (1 more)
> Then there are two in the steering shaft that are a bear. One is in the middle the slip shaft and there is one hidden it the cardin (universal) joint
> just on top of the steering box. (That is 2 more)
>
> That is the common 14 in the front. Do not expect to get to them and stay clean (that just ain't happenin).
>
> There are the 4 more (could be 8 on '76) at the bogies.
>
> Remember, Grease is cheaper than parts.....
>
> I can't get at mine with a rigid snout grease gun, but trying to get the coupler on and have it stay with a flexible hose has been an exercise in
> futility. I am using a one handed gun so I can hold the coupler on with one hand and pump with the other. Be cautious if using an air powered gun as
> they often sound like they are pumping grease when nothing is happening. I found a cordless electric that looked promising, but the price was an
> issue. (A REAL BIG issue.)
>
> Good Luck
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> Matt go to the LocknLube site. That have an end for the flexibly line of your grease gun that will free up your hands to properly use the pump. I
> also bought their "boot" that goes over the end of the grease gun to keep it from dripping.
> I doould have bought these things years ago.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO

Emery,

The LocknLube coupler was here when we got back from Elkhart. That is when the "tear the coach apart" project started. It is already on the coach
grease gun, but except for two fittings on the Gravely, it is unused.

I have not had issues with the Valvoline grease dripping. Unfortunately, it is still slimy from the prior fill because a seem to remember to clean it
just after I have reloaded the thing.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
G'day,

I have a few extra cartridges of Mobil 1 and Valvoline Synpower here in Houston. In the past I had stored them standing up on their
ends and found that fluid separates from the grease and if the end with the plastic cap is down fluid leaks out. I now store them
laying down and that does not occur.

Before you put a cartridge in a grease gun you have to pull the "T" handle back compressing the spring plunger. Once the cartridge
is screwed back into the gun you release the "T" handle and force the grease into the gun.

If you store it with the spring pressure on the grease it will cause the fluid to separate. I found the best thing to do is to pull
the "T" handle out when you store the gun and store it horizontally.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Matt Colie
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 7:34 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Chassis Grease

Emery,

The LocknLube coupler was here when we got back from Elkhart. That is when the "tear the coach apart" project started. It is
already on the coach grease gun, but except for two fittings on the Gravely, it is unused.

I have not had issues with the Valvoline grease dripping. Unfortunately, it is still slimy from the prior fill because a seem to
remember to clean it just after I have reloaded the thing.

Matt
 
I know of few people that spend ton of time seeking the great grease, but
not using any on their coaches.
I rather put some grease in of any brand than sit and wait.😢

> G'day,
>
> I have a few extra cartridges of Mobil 1 and Valvoline Synpower here in
> Houston. In the past I had stored them standing up on their
> ends and found that fluid separates from the grease and if the end with
> the plastic cap is down fluid leaks out. I now store them
> laying down and that does not occur.
>
> Before you put a cartridge in a grease gun you have to pull the "T" handle
> back compressing the spring plunger. Once the cartridge
> is screwed back into the gun you release the "T" handle and force the
> grease into the gun.
>
> If you store it with the spring pressure on the grease it will cause the
> fluid to separate. I found the best thing to do is to pull
> the "T" handle out when you store the gun and store it horizontally.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Matt
> Colie
> Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 7:34 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Chassis Grease
>
> Emery,
>
> The LocknLube coupler was here when we got back from Elkhart. That is
> when the "tear the coach apart" project started. It is
> already on the coach grease gun, but except for two fittings on the
> Gravely, it is unused.
>
> I have not had issues with the Valvoline grease dripping. Unfortunately,
> it is still slimy from the prior fill because a seem to
> remember to clean it just after I have reloaded the thing.
>
> Matt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502