They, (GMC) were not too concerned about that, as they had lathes, and
turned the whole shebang after assembly.
Where we run into issues with wobbly rotors is when we replace them,
and get high tolerance mixed with low tolerance pieces mated together. Like
Dave L. says, easy enough to fix if you have access to a good lathe.
Better is changing out linings before you get to metal on metal
contact.
The day I brought my coach home, I had just come from the tire shop
where I noticed as they were installing new tires that my pads were shot.
So, I drove the nose into the shop, and jacked it up, thinking that I
would throw a new set of pads on it that afternoon. Yeah, right!
Two months later, after I had rounded up all those very scarce (and
very expensive pieces) I had new rotors, hubs, knuckles wheel bearing sets,
upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints, tie rod ends, and
sway bar links and bushings, along with a steering stabilizer and new KYB
shocks, Oh Yes! new semi metallic riveted brake linings. My coach sat
there in my open shop door, half in, and half out of the shop on jack
stands for almost 2 months. My bargain coach just to be a lot less of a
bargain, quick.
So, when you hear a squeal from the front end when you apply the brakes,
check stuff sooner than later.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Thu, Feb 6, 2020, 6:00 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist
wrote:
> > Rarely do I see anyone swap out rotors. Just make sure you always have
> good pads, and I think you will not last as long as our rotors will.
> >
> > Rotors for gmc are also expensive
> > And hard to find.
>
> And,
> There is another issue that Dave Lenzi has mentioned. The pads on the hub
> where the rotor secure are not square to the axis and often not very true.
> Anybody with a lathe can fix this real fast.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
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