Ceiling Panels

[henry davis]

>I'm considering re-doing my ceiling panels. Some time ago on the net, there
>was a description of using Luan plywood and covering with fabric. Are there
>pictures or description of that on someone's page? Have any other suggestions
>for insulation and panel materials?

You can see the behind the headliner pictures at my site:

www.henry-davis.com/GMC

My wife's handiwork on insulation is also posted there. We have used both
Reflectix and spray in urethane. Reflectix is a pretty good insulator but
it does very little to reduce noise. So, in the front headliner and
driver's side wall behind the davo we went with foam insulation. Reflectix
is fast to add and doesn't make a mess. Urethane is a bunch of work, is
messy and requires that you either make forms to mold the inside of the
foam or cut the excess off with a saw.

Urethane gives better sound deadening properties and possibly better
thermal insulation.

We went with straight luan for the headliner. I'll know later this year if
it was a mistake. we wanted something that was easy to clean.

Henry
PS if you use luan, be sure to check the ceiling area for protrusions - the
old headliner would mold to fit around brackets. Luan doesn't.

 

[al chernoff]

>I'm considering re-doing my ceiling panels. Some time ago on the net, there
>was a description of using Luan plywood and covering with fabric. Are there
>pictures or description of that on someone's page? Have any other suggestions
>for insulation and panel materials?
>
>Andy M, PA
>77 PB

I think Gene has some on his site. I did mine in 1/8" luan, dropped
my ceiling in the center, and put fabric over it. Let me know if I
can help if you cant find the pictures.
al

 

[henry davis]

>Henry,
> Thanks for the info and pics. How did you finish the Luan? Paint?

We used mildew resistant bathroom paint because it will handle the
temperature excursions and relatively high humidity that happens in our
coach sometimes.

> Also, I intend to take down the cabinets, of course, but how did
> you
>work around the closet and bath units ?

The headliner will slide between the rafters and the closet and bath units.
Sometimes it takes a bit of effort to make them fit.

Henry

 

[richard waters]

Well I'd like to put in my $.02 worth. As a relative new comer to the GMC
restoration game I have not done that much. I did install a new headliner last
Summer.

I agree with most of what Justin says in his post.

In my case the original headliner was in pretty bad shape. Unless your base
headliner material is still in very good shape I say replace it with laun or some
such new material. It's too much of a hassle to take the lockers etc. down etc.
only to put old headliner stuff back up. I used 1/8" lauan plywood as the base
and used high temp spray contact cement to glue the same fabric to the lauan that
they use in new motorhomes. I think it looks great.

It never even occurred to me to reuse the original cardboard headliner. Maybe it
would have worked.

> Badhirk
> About 5 years ago I did a complete interior and exterior renovation of my
> coach. The one eight inch luan plywood was, and is, he recommended material
> to use IF YOU NEED TO. Fortunately I was tipped off by someone who had
> already replaced their ceiling, that probably most of the original panels
> were still serviceable. They were. I used a wire brush to remove the
> deteriorated foam after peeling off the outer plastic. This system worked
> well. I had to replace one panel because the original had been damaged by a
> water leak. It was three times as much trouble getting it to fit and putting
> in place as the originals were. If you do replace some panels, be sure to use
> the original panel for a pattern.

Good point, make sure to use the old panels for patterns. When you trace the new
panels make sure to allow for how the old panels distorted over the years.

> I did this, but it was still a problem.
> After you have the new material glued to the panels, get a buddy to help you,
> place the edges on each side in the side grooved railing, and then give a big
> heave and push up in the center and they pop right into place.

You really do need help with this step. I did it by myself and it was a hassle.
The new panels will just pop up into place. But you have to push with a lot of
pressure. Also a buddy would be very helpful in getting the lockers down and
back up.

> If you use a
> material with some thickness to it, be sure to stay away from the outside
> edges by about 1/2 inch so you won't have trouble getting the panel into the
> side groove.

I didn't do this, but it makes sense.

>
>
> I didn't try to re-use the cross pieces between panels.

I reused my old cross pieces. I didn't have any problems. But using wood strips
makes sense. Arch used wood strips that are used for making screen doors and
brass screws. It looks really nice.

> Instead we took a 2x8
> and ripped it into 1/4 inch thick strips. Rounded the outside corners with a
> router for appearance sake. Stained and spray varnished them to match the
> cabinets. FORGET ABOUT trying to use the original screw holes. Just get some
> self tapping screws. Works much better.

I didn't worry about the original screw holes either. I just put new self
tapping screws in where I wanted them.

> There will only be one place where
> you will have to take special care regarding the curvature of the cross
> strips. That is the one over the door. I had heard a lot of ways to get the
> curve in it. I told my carpenter all these tales I had heard. He simply
> smiled and asked if the stove worked. Yes, of course it works.

The curve is a pain in some places. But I didn't worry that much about it.
Maybe I should have, but my install still looks good.

>
>
> The carpenter was a bow hunter. Made his own bows and arrows. He said he
> would put the curve in it the same way he put the curve in a bow. Here's what
> he did. He carefully measured the length needed, cut it, and pre drilled the
> screw holes. Only one end of this cross piece is curved which is what adds to
> the problem. When he had the strip cut and drilled, he turned a burner on
> low and began to pass the under side of the end to be curved back and forth,
> back and forth, rhythmatically about 5 or 6 inches over the flame. He kept
> feeling of the top side. As soon as the heat had penetrated the wood and
> could be felt on the top side, he slapped it in place and put in the screws.
> As it cooled, the curve was permanently fixed in the wood. This is an
> inexpensive solution and looks very good.

I wished I had the benefit of a master carpenter on my job. It would have made
things a bit easier.

>
> Justin

Richard Waters
1976 PB, Troy, MI