Can this be taken apart for replacement?

I am not seeing any pictures in Shawn last 2 messages.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 3:10 PM Shawn Bennear via Gmclist <

> I need to fix a little damage to the bottom of this panel, by the door.
> How does this come apart, and does anyone have a spare? It's driving me nuts
> since I recently noticed it.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Shawn
> --
> http://www.gmcmotorhomeworld.com
>
> 1977 Palm Beach, 403 V8 w headers.
>
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Shawn,

Ditto Bruce's comments. AND, Thanks for including a link to the Electric
Wipers web site under my name. :-)

Ken H.

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 8:20 AM Bruce Hislop via Gmclist <

> Shawn,
> I had never seen your website before. Very nice, great collection of
> articles and photos.
>
> http://www.gmcmotorhomeworld.com
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
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Well taking that panel apart can be done, but you wont be left with
anything...The original press board just crumbled apart in my hands when I
first went at it. However I was on the ropes anyway and so am rebuilding
the entire interior, getting rid of all the press board.

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 11:29 AM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Shawn,
>
> Ditto Bruce's comments. AND, Thanks for including a link to the Electric
> Wipers web site under my name. :-)
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 8:20 AM Bruce Hislop via Gmclist <

>
> > Shawn,
> > I had never seen your website before. Very nice, great collection of
> > articles and photos.
> >
> > http://www.gmcmotorhomeworld.com
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hislop
> > ON Canada
> > 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> > My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
that is a tough wall to deal with..... I don't think it comes out very easily, and probably not in one piece. I don't think you can't really get at
it from the backside, even with fridge removed.

I have had luck rebuilding some cabinetry using epoxy, west systems to be specific. I am not sure how one would go about that wall, and the
process can be messy, but the epoxy will penetrate and hold what is left of the particle board edge. I did all my stuff on cabinets that were out
of the coach, and I had gravity on my side. it was all stuff that was hidden one epoxied up.

Dale Ropp, is the epoxy expert, you might find some of his stuff on GMCMI, as he has done some seminars at the conventions.

if you can get that edge from getting worse, I would think you could find a decent trim piece to go over it that people might never know there is a
problem.

The lower side maybe some sort of cabinet could be added.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
> Here is a better pic of the damage. Clearly in the past had some type of leak, but those have been corrected... Just need to figure out how to fix
> this...
>
>
>
> Shawn

My Royale has all walnut cabinetry. Some of the walls had deep scars from the PO. There was no way that I could fix it. So I bought several sheets of
1/4" walnut plywood, put a desired finish on it, THEN cut it to size and applied it over the old wall. Looks like it belongs. Not saying you should
use walnut, but maybe 1/4" plywood something that you could get close to a match? JWID
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Could you trim out the sides with some small bendable molding? At least that could be a temporary fix.
Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas
 
Shawn,

That damaged section is not of any structural importance.

If I were to write a quote to repair that, I would start with a heat gun and gently heat the vinyl covering. It should come loose and may not crack
to much. If you can get it out of the way without breaking it, you have scored a big win. The idea will be to put a piece of wood back in there with
a surface that is about where that was. Nothing else really maters.

There is no telling how much of the particle board is shot. When you get the vinyl clear, try drill a few small holes. You will instantly be able to
tell what is still sound. I don't know what you have for tools, but a reciprocating saw of any type will do. Decide how much you need to take out
and drill the start and end holes and then cut it away. Save that piece as a template. Find some plywood the same thickness if you can. Given that
location, it should be exterior grade plywood because you don't want it to come apart as when it gets wet. If the replacement plug is thinner, you
can shim between the joiner and it to get the surface where it wants to be.

So cut the plug, and then mark up an cut a joiner or fishplate (two words for the same thing). This is the piece that you cut with the same profile
as the plug but about 1" each way from the cut. This joiner will go inside. It does not have to be a single piece. If there is an inside feature in
the way, gaps in the joiner are allowed.

Collect a small handful of flat head wood screws and the screw-mate for them. A screw-mate is a "drill" that is a thread clearance, a body clearance
and a countersink all in one. It will go best if you clamp the joiner into place before you start drilling for the screws. A screw every 2 or 3"
should be real good. Run the screws in and do the same for the plug. You can remove the plug now and clean up the dust from the operation and paint
the edge of the plug that will be exposed.

Want it bullet-proof? Smear glue on the joiner and then screw it and the plug in. This will unfortunately also make any future repair more
difficult.

When you have a plug in place, get some 3M 77. Cover other areas to prevent collateral damage and glue the vinyl back down.

Get a little bit of brown paint to paint the exposed edge of the plug if you did not do that while it was easy.

I could show you where I did this kind of a repair to my coach, but that was lots of years ago and I will have to remember where it is. It is not
easy to see.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
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