Building the GMC to sell. Shimming the rear suspention.

Bob Dunahugh

New member
Sep 17, 2012
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Exterior paint work is complete. Looks great. Next. Changing the rear suspension to a rebuilt 78 unit. So what shims should I use. The machined housings should all be extremely close. The shims are more then likely to match variations in the main frame. So use the shims that are with the frame. Think it might be simpler to pull the gas tanks, and exhaust systems before the suspension. As I'm putting in new tanks, and exhaust anyway. Thinking of a new holding tank also. This is going to make someone a great GMC. Bob Dunahugh
 
you should do a blog with photos Jim Bounds style! where are these rear shims located? are they alignment shims?

you must really enjoy wrenching on the GMCs.. not many would restore any old vehicle just to turn around and sell it!

good luck with it.
 
Fred,

You should see Maintenance Manual X-7525, Section 4 - Rear Suspension, Page 4 - 32 & 4 -33, - On Vehicle Adjustments / Rear Wheel
Alignment, Paragraphs: Toe-In Measurements, Toe-In Adjustment, Rear Wheel Camber. Figure 67-Rear Wheel Alignment Chart and Figure
68-Rear Wheel Shim Location.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Fred
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 2:16 AM
To: gmclist

Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Building the GMC to sell. Shimming the rear suspention.

you should do a blog with photos Jim Bounds style! where are these rear shims located? are they alignment shims?

you must really enjoy wrenching on the GMCs.. not many would restore any old vehicle just to turn around and sell it!

good luck with it.
 
Bob,

Rob's right: You need to refer to the manual. You're going to need
alignment jigs.

You're probably going to find what I did when I rebuilt my bogies in '98:
The shims are nothing more than piles of rust. They were originally stacks
of thin steel, providing lots of surface area for rust. I wound up
estimating their thicknesses and replacing them with, mostly, 1/8" bar
stock. I've never really attempted to determine how well I did, but the
toe and camber (after some Jim Bounds bending) are all good, as is tire
wear.

Ken H.

> Fred,
>
> You should see Maintenance Manual X-7525, Section 4 - Rear Suspension,
> Page 4 - 32 & 4 -33, - On Vehicle Adjustments / Rear Wheel
> Alignment, Paragraphs: Toe-In Measurements, Toe-In Adjustment, Rear Wheel
> Camber. Figure 67-Rear Wheel Alignment Chart and Figure
> 68-Rear Wheel Shim Location.
>
>
 
I believe the bogie shims are primarily for camber as the ones I removed
from my 77 were along the top mounts only. Assuming no bent frame or arms
camber is likely the only adjustment needed at the rears. As Ken H stated
toe can be adjusted with pushing or pulling on the arm(s) in question.

Sully
Bellevue.

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 4:00 AM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Bob,
>
> Rob's right: You need to refer to the manual. You're going to need
> alignment jigs.
>
> You're probably going to find what I did when I rebuilt my bogies in '98:
> The shims are nothing more than piles of rust. They were originally stacks
> of thin steel, providing lots of surface area for rust. I wound up
> estimating their thicknesses and replacing them with, mostly, 1/8" bar
> stock. I've never really attempted to determine how well I did, but the
> toe and camber (after some Jim Bounds bending) are all good, as is tire
> wear.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:27 AM Rob Mueller

>
> > Fred,
> >
> > You should see Maintenance Manual X-7525, Section 4 - Rear Suspension,
> > Page 4 - 32 & 4 -33, - On Vehicle Adjustments / Rear Wheel
> > Alignment, Paragraphs: Toe-In Measurements, Toe-In Adjustment, Rear Wheel
> > Camber. Figure 67-Rear Wheel Alignment Chart and Figure
> > 68-Rear Wheel Shim Location.
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Fred. It's a really nice GMC. That was on it's way to become a nice looking chicken coop in Iowa . It came with all new appliances that were still in boxes. Roof A/C, Frig, Furnace, And Magic chef cook top. All new cushion/seat redone, and window treatments. All still in bags. A nice paint job, and a good 455. Bob Dunahugh

________________________________
From: Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 12:16 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Building the GMC to sell. Shimming the rear suspention.

Exterior paint work is complete. Looks great. Next. Changing the rear suspension to a rebuilt 78 unit. So what shims should I use. The machined housings should all be extremely close. The shims are more then likely to match variations in the main frame. So use the shims that are with the frame. Think it might be simpler to pull the gas tanks, and exhaust systems before the suspension. As I'm putting in new tanks, and exhaust anyway. Thinking of a new holding tank also. This is going to make someone a great GMC. Bob Dunahugh
 
I would offer a slightly different slant - pun intended. The shims are use=
d to correct toe if both wheels on one side are parallel with each other, b=
ut not with the frame. They are also used to correct camber if both wheels=
on one side are out of adjustment by the same amount. If one is out of al=
ignment and the other is in proper alignment with the frame, then the arm m=
ust be bent to bring it into alignment with the good wheel and with the fra=
me. Most often camber is correct on both, but one will be bent in from hit=
ting a curb at some point. Those forged bogy arms look and are stout, but =
they will bend using a port-a-power. Bend slowly and let off the pressure =
to see how far they moved when at rest. Keep doing this forcing them out a=
bout 1/4 inch at a time until at rest they are where you want them. While =
under pressure peening with a hammer will help the bogy arm take shape and =
will relieve internal stress. it is a slow, repetitive process. If you ar=
e pressing against the frame with your port-a-power be sure to use a stout =
piece of wood or metal to spread the load as you do not want to bend the fr=
ame. Jerry Jerry Work The Dovetail Joint Fine furniture designed=
and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Ke=
rby, OR glwork http://jerrywork.com =
Message: 5 Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2018 06:30:07 -0700=
From: Todd Sullivan To: gmclist =
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Building the GMC to sell. Shimming the rear =09susp=
ention. Message-ID: =09 Content-Type: text/plain; charset "UTF-8" =
I believe the bogie shims are primarily for camber as the ones I removed=
from my 77 were along the top mounts only. Assuming no bent frame or arm=
s camber is likely the only adjustment needed at the rears. As Ken H stat=
ed toe can be adjusted with pushing or pulling on the arm(s) in question=
. Sully Bellevue. =
 
book show shims to adjust camber and toe, both horizontal and vertical ones that slip in between frame and bogie mounts. no mention of a special jig
to install them?


> Fred. It's a really nice GMC. That was on it's way to become a nice looking chicken coop in Iowa . It came with all new appliances that were
> still in boxes. Roof A/C, Frig, Furnace, And Magic chef cook top. All new cushion/seat redone, and window treatments. All still in bags. A nice
> paint job, and a good 455. Bob Dunahugh

sounds like a nice find. was something wrong with it that foiled the previous owners plans or they passed away?
 
Also in the master parts manual, " as required". Some need more , some
less, some none. You have to drive it, and then pull straight into an
alignment area. Then establish correct tire pressures and ride height.
Then, measure camber and toe on the rear 4. Shim as required to conform to
manual specifics. Bending of bogie arms is sometimes required. Sometimes,
nothing is required, but not often in my experience. Especially on the
passenger side forward bogie. Nearly always bent
inward towards the frame.
Jim Hupy

> book show shims to adjust camber and toe, both horizontal and vertical
> ones that slip in between frame and bogie mounts. no mention of a special
> jig
> to install them?
>
>

> > Fred. It's a really nice GMC. That was on it's way to become a nice
> looking chicken coop in Iowa . It came with all new appliances that were
> > still in boxes. Roof A/C, Frig, Furnace, And Magic chef cook top. All
> new cushion/seat redone, and window treatments. All still in bags. A nice
> > paint job, and a good 455. Bob Dunahugh
>
>
>
> sounds like a nice find. was something wrong with it that foiled the
> previous owners plans or they passed away?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Thanks for the input. I'm going to start with the shim that are on the frame. Then check alignment. Bob Dunahugh

________________________________
From: Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 12:16 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Building the GMC to sell. Shimming the rear suspention.

Exterior paint work is complete. Looks great. Next. Changing the rear suspension to a rebuilt 78 unit. So what shims should I use. The machined housings should all be extremely close. The shims are more then likely to match variations in the main frame. So use the shims that are with the frame. Think it might be simpler to pull the gas tanks, and exhaust systems before the suspension. As I'm putting in new tanks, and exhaust anyway. Thinking of a new holding tank also. This is going to make someone a great GMC. Bob Dunahugh