Hi All,
I'm still in the market for a GMC, but I have worked with stainless
brake lines. Here are some comments based on my experience. These may
or may not help with your particular situation.
>
> Here I go folks for the last three weeks I have been working on putting
> stainless-steel lines and braided the stainless-steel brake hoses on my
> motorhome. This has been the most frustrating thing I have ever done.
I have done stainless lines on another vehicle. Here are some thoughts.
> Stainless-steel is much more brittle than
> standard steel brake lines. I do not know if it is true or not but every
> manufacturer that I have talk to say that stainless-steel lines can not be
> reflared in the field.
Yes, this is true. Conventional double flare tools will not work.
> In order for you to get a new set of brake lines you
> really need to send your entire set of lines to a manufacturer of stainless-
> steel brake lines.
I pulled mine off and measured the lenghts out in the open. Added a few
inches for safe measure and then sent in a request for X number of lines
at Y lenghts. You can alway put in a few extra bends it they are a
little long. Bought direct from Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. in
Clarence, New York (716) 759-8669. Most local jobbers were of no help.
Cost was higher than standard steel lines as should be expected.
> Now the causes some problems because of the length of the
> lines on a GMC motorhome. If you cut the lines the manufacturer cannot
> guarantee that the profiles or angles will be correct. Many of these old
> brake lines can not be folded without breaking them.
What I did was to order the correct lenghts with fittings installed and
ends flared. Then bent them up myself after they arrived. They bend
fine with conventional bending tools, it is flaring the end that is a
different story. Lay the old next to the new and work your way along
the new line until all the bends are in place. A local outfit should be
able to bend them up to match the existing lines.
> It seems that many
> local shops do not have the means to do the type of work that is required for
> stainless-steel brake lines. Most shops will send your lines off to a
> larger manufacturer. To cover any liability that they may have they just the
> double or triple the price of the lines. The price of the lines soon become
> outrageous. The last quote I received was outrageous. $6.50 for each foot
> of line,$2.50 for
> each flare and $1.50 for each bend.
This relates back to the fact that conventional flaring tools are not
strong enough to handle stainless. I ordered direct from the
manufacture and only requested simple straight sections.
> I think I will replace my brake lines
> with plain old steel.
Can't argue with that. Seems that several GMCs are still running around
with 20-25 year old steel lines. If you went with new steel lines now,
they should be good to the year 2020!
> I have read in one of the GMC publications how we should replace our brake
> hoses with braided stainless-steel. This idea appealed to me. I still
> believe that this would give us a much better feel on the brake pedal, since
> the stainless-steel lines would not allow the expansion that the rubber hoses
> do. Well guess again folks!
Braided lines are good for resistance to rock dings and cuts. They also
have a teflon inner liner which gives them extra stiffness. The hose
expansion issue is only a factor under very heavy line pressures or hard
stops. They are worth it if you are racing cars and going deep into
corners, standing on the brake late, slowing down very fast, and then
getting back on the gas. Under this all-on or all-off cycling, the
extra stiffness can make a big difference. For normal driving, it is not
necessary. Stock lines in *Good* condition should be fine. If you are
driving a GMC hard enough to really need braided lines, stay away from
me! Oh, they do look nice though.
> Did you know that braided stainless-steel lines
> are not approved by DOT! Yes you could get a ticket for having braided
> stainless-steel lines on your motorhome. I have talk to several manufacturers
> who say that with in a month or two they will have a braided stainless-steel
> line which can receive DOT approval. But it does not mean that they have
> received approval. It seems that DOT requires that any braided line must have
> a rubber coating or other coating that can protect it from fraying.
>
>
I have run them on other cars without problems. Some report that over
time the outer braid works loose and begins to chaffe the inner rubber
tube. You have to keep an eye on them. They will be more maintenance
sensitive than the stock factory type hoses. Factory parts are usually
better if you want to install it and forget about it. The DOT
certification implies it has to live over a wide range of operating
tempatures and conditions. The race car stuff is usually maintained
frequently and operated under ideal weather conditions.
> I am trying to say here is read what you can do the research on your own. I
> believe that many people have made honest statements as to what they have
> done. The problem is as I see it is research was just not good enough. I do
> not mean to put down anyone's idea, I just want to say it has to be better
> than this. Good luck to all of you while you navigate this sea of information.
> You will still have to decide what is best for you!
>
My sports car has braided lines. When I get a GMC it is going to get
stainless brake tubing, but will retain the factory-type rubber brake
hose. For added rock protection, you could just cover them with a
section of black plastic electrical split loom. I have seen Detroit do
this on several types of rubber hose routed into harms way.
Hope this helps some.
Gary
I'm still in the market for a GMC, but I have worked with stainless
brake lines. Here are some comments based on my experience. These may
or may not help with your particular situation.
>
> Here I go folks for the last three weeks I have been working on putting
> stainless-steel lines and braided the stainless-steel brake hoses on my
> motorhome. This has been the most frustrating thing I have ever done.
I have done stainless lines on another vehicle. Here are some thoughts.
> Stainless-steel is much more brittle than
> standard steel brake lines. I do not know if it is true or not but every
> manufacturer that I have talk to say that stainless-steel lines can not be
> reflared in the field.
Yes, this is true. Conventional double flare tools will not work.
> In order for you to get a new set of brake lines you
> really need to send your entire set of lines to a manufacturer of stainless-
> steel brake lines.
I pulled mine off and measured the lenghts out in the open. Added a few
inches for safe measure and then sent in a request for X number of lines
at Y lenghts. You can alway put in a few extra bends it they are a
little long. Bought direct from Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. in
Clarence, New York (716) 759-8669. Most local jobbers were of no help.
Cost was higher than standard steel lines as should be expected.
> Now the causes some problems because of the length of the
> lines on a GMC motorhome. If you cut the lines the manufacturer cannot
> guarantee that the profiles or angles will be correct. Many of these old
> brake lines can not be folded without breaking them.
What I did was to order the correct lenghts with fittings installed and
ends flared. Then bent them up myself after they arrived. They bend
fine with conventional bending tools, it is flaring the end that is a
different story. Lay the old next to the new and work your way along
the new line until all the bends are in place. A local outfit should be
able to bend them up to match the existing lines.
> It seems that many
> local shops do not have the means to do the type of work that is required for
> stainless-steel brake lines. Most shops will send your lines off to a
> larger manufacturer. To cover any liability that they may have they just the
> double or triple the price of the lines. The price of the lines soon become
> outrageous. The last quote I received was outrageous. $6.50 for each foot
> of line,$2.50 for
> each flare and $1.50 for each bend.
This relates back to the fact that conventional flaring tools are not
strong enough to handle stainless. I ordered direct from the
manufacture and only requested simple straight sections.
> I think I will replace my brake lines
> with plain old steel.
Can't argue with that. Seems that several GMCs are still running around
with 20-25 year old steel lines. If you went with new steel lines now,
they should be good to the year 2020!
> I have read in one of the GMC publications how we should replace our brake
> hoses with braided stainless-steel. This idea appealed to me. I still
> believe that this would give us a much better feel on the brake pedal, since
> the stainless-steel lines would not allow the expansion that the rubber hoses
> do. Well guess again folks!
Braided lines are good for resistance to rock dings and cuts. They also
have a teflon inner liner which gives them extra stiffness. The hose
expansion issue is only a factor under very heavy line pressures or hard
stops. They are worth it if you are racing cars and going deep into
corners, standing on the brake late, slowing down very fast, and then
getting back on the gas. Under this all-on or all-off cycling, the
extra stiffness can make a big difference. For normal driving, it is not
necessary. Stock lines in *Good* condition should be fine. If you are
driving a GMC hard enough to really need braided lines, stay away from
me! Oh, they do look nice though.
> Did you know that braided stainless-steel lines
> are not approved by DOT! Yes you could get a ticket for having braided
> stainless-steel lines on your motorhome. I have talk to several manufacturers
> who say that with in a month or two they will have a braided stainless-steel
> line which can receive DOT approval. But it does not mean that they have
> received approval. It seems that DOT requires that any braided line must have
> a rubber coating or other coating that can protect it from fraying.
>
>
I have run them on other cars without problems. Some report that over
time the outer braid works loose and begins to chaffe the inner rubber
tube. You have to keep an eye on them. They will be more maintenance
sensitive than the stock factory type hoses. Factory parts are usually
better if you want to install it and forget about it. The DOT
certification implies it has to live over a wide range of operating
tempatures and conditions. The race car stuff is usually maintained
frequently and operated under ideal weather conditions.
> I am trying to say here is read what you can do the research on your own. I
> believe that many people have made honest statements as to what they have
> done. The problem is as I see it is research was just not good enough. I do
> not mean to put down anyone's idea, I just want to say it has to be better
> than this. Good luck to all of you while you navigate this sea of information.
> You will still have to decide what is best for you!
>
My sports car has braided lines. When I get a GMC it is going to get
stainless brake tubing, but will retain the factory-type rubber brake
hose. For added rock protection, you could just cover them with a
section of black plastic electrical split loom. I have seen Detroit do
this on several types of rubber hose routed into harms way.
Hope this helps some.
Gary
