BlazeCut Fire suppression

[Deb]

I have just purchased the BlazeCut fire suppression system for my coach. Up to this point, all I have had is the fire extinguisher. Based on what I
saw for reviews, videos and other options, and the fact that it is less than $300 made it worth a look. Appears straight forward though installation
may be awkward - haven't taken a close look to determine the best location/orientation. Lots of time to work that out before I hit the road in June.

Anyone have any experience with these? Good, Bad or Indifferent?

I'll let you know how installation goes. Hopefully I will never have to let you know how it worked!!
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[slc]

If you have experience with CO2 extinguishers may be helpful.
CO2 starves the fire for air and puts the flame out. Wind can feed air to that fire
and the hot metal will make it re-light.
You need to really plan out how you are going to place your system but be aware
that it may not save your coach in a fire, it may only buy you time.
--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center

 

[jim kanomata1]

Foam system is suppose to work better as it coats and less chance to
relight.
Yes, we sell the Foam System by FireFight, but also the Halon System.
Our foam does not damage the electrical system like the others ad that is
why Jim Bounds is involved with them.

On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 8:52 PM slc via Gmclist
wrote:

> If you have experience with CO2 extinguishers may be helpful.
> CO2 starves the fire for air and puts the flame out. Wind can feed air to
> that fire
> and the hot metal will make it re-light.
> You need to really plan out how you are going to place your system but be
> aware
> that it may not save your coach in a fire, it may only buy you time.
> --
> GatsbysCruise. \
> 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
> Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS
> FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
> UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[Ken B]

I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are trying
to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.

I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run it to
multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that area. I were
using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the remaining hose
vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided Adel clamps to
hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You do not want to melt
the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.

I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb and gas
lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the job.


--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Deb]

My rationale for the blazecut is really to get a fire out quickly, but I also plan to have the fire extinguisher available. Jim, I will have a look
at that Fire Fight system. But for now, at least I have something that I am pretty sure will get the job done and, if nothing else, give some time to
get our hind parts out of the coach! And that is really the important part. I have good replacement value insurance. But it won't do me any good if
I don't have time to get out.
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[Deb]

> I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are
> trying to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.
>
> I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run it to
> multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that area. I
> were using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the remaining
> hose vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided Adel clamps
> to hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You do not want to
> melt the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.
>
> I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb and
> gas lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the job.

Thanks Ken. I got the 3 metre system. So it should have lots of length to work with. They didn't send me clamps - just zip ties. But I can get the
proper clamps at Princess Auto. I like the sound of your placement suggestion.
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[Ken B]

This is the style of clamp you want: Steel for strength during a fire and rubber insulated so it will not vibrate and wear the tube. I do not know
the diameter needed.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e

I do not know what store brands you have there. I seem to remember a Home Depot near Walmart in Kamloops. What is that about 60K away?

Anyway, I am suggesting to try those type of stores if you have one anywhere close. They ought to have those in the electrical section. Do not get
the plastic ones. They might melt or break and allow the hose to vibrate. Get the steel and rubber ones and a few 1/2" or 3/4" Phillips head screws.
It will be difficult driving them because that wood is very hard up there. It will be difficult getting a powered screwdriver / drill in there. I
have a 90 degree angle drill here but that will not do you much good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-Inch-Cable-Clamp-Rubber-Cushioned-Insulated-Clamp-/392278449363

Princess Auto and Home Depot online showed some, but I did not see sizes larger than 3/4". I do not know what size you really need.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
https://www.homedepot.com/s/Rubber%2520insulated%2520clamps?NCNI-5


--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[RF_Burns]

Deb,
Pico of Canada has a large selection of insulated metal "R" clips starting on page 4 of their cable clamps.

https://picocanada.com/en/products/search-results?qen=cable+clamps+&ccm_paging_p=4

Pico is in Burnaby BC, but does not sell direct to end users. Here is a link to sales agents who can direct you to the closest supplier.

https://picocanada.com/en/sales-agents/

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that

 

[kingsley coach]

Nice work Guys looking after Deb.
Nothing I can add except to say that if you can't get something from
Princess Auto, a local electrical supplies distributor might be able to
find something in the back of his shop.

Mike in NS

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 8:42 AM Bruce Hislop via Gmclist <

> Deb,
> Pico of Canada has a large selection of insulated metal "R" clips starting
> on page 4 of their cable clamps.
>
>
> https://picocanada.com/en/products/search-results?qen=cable+clamps+&ccm_paging_p=4
>
> Pico is in Burnaby BC, but does not sell direct to end users. Here is a
> link to sales agents who can direct you to the closest supplier.
>
> https://picocanada.com/en/sales-agents/
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !

 

[RJW]

> I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are
> trying to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.
>
> I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run it to
> multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that area. I
> were using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the remaining
> hose vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided Adel clamps
> to hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You do not want to
> melt the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.
>
> I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb and
> gas lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the job.

Ken,
You showed me what you had for your Onan at last years Eastern States work rally. I thought it was something I should get, but so far have not done
anything about it. Considering what has happened recently, I want to enhance what I currently have. Right now I have FireFight halon in my Onan and
refrigerator compartments and FireFight foam in the engine area. Also, 7 foam extinguishers located throughout the coach. I need to install
something I can get to from outside the coach. I want to get a 2nd system (BlazeCut?)for the engine area.

The BlazeCut product might be better than Halon in our application.

According to:
https://www.chemours.com/FE/en_US/products/fe36.html

"FE-36™ is proving to be the standard in-kind replacement for Halon 1211 in portable fire extinguishers. FE-36™ has comparable performance and
efficiency to Halon 1211, lower toxicity, as well as zero ozone depletion potential. In a portable fire extinguisher, FE-36™ is discharged as a
stream of gas and liquid droplets that penetrate into the fire area, ceasing the combustion process through heat absorption and a chemical
interaction. FE-36™ is also a replacement for Halon 1301 in local application systems, such as modular systems."

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.

 

[Deb]

> This is the style of clamp you want: Steel for strength during a fire and rubber insulated so it will not vibrate and wear the tube. I do not
> know the diameter needed.
>
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
>
> I do not know what store brands you have there. I seem to remember a Home Depot near Walmart in Kamloops. What is that about 60K away?
>
> Anyway, I am suggesting to try those type of stores if you have one anywhere close. They ought to have those in the electrical section. Do not
> get the plastic ones. They might melt or break and allow the hose to vibrate. Get the steel and rubber ones and a few 1/2" or 3/4" Phillips head
> screws. It will be difficult driving them because that wood is very hard up there. It will be difficult getting a powered screwdriver / drill in
> there. I have a 90 degree angle drill here but that will not do you much good.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-Inch-Cable-Clamp-Rubber-Cushioned-Insulated-Clamp-/392278449363
>
> Princess Auto and Home Depot online showed some, but I did not see sizes larger than 3/4". I do not know what size you really need.
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
> https://www.homedepot.com/s/Rubber%2520insulated%2520clamps?NCNI-5

Hey Ken. Our Princess Auto has those 3/4" clamps and the tubing is 3/4" diameter, so that's perfect. It's only a 45 minute drive to P' Auto
(everything is a 45 minute drive from here ) And although Walmart is closer, Princess Auto will be much more interesting to wander through. Who
knows what I must buy that I don't really need. Might even find a 90 degree angle drill - or just go to Home Depot and what I can spend there. Hey -
it's spring - time to start spending money on the coach again. Just got 7 new Toyo's on her.

And I'll use Robertson screws Right Bruce?

--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[Deb]

> Nice work Guys looking after Deb.
>
> Mike in NS
>
> Michael Beaton
> 1977 Kingsley 26-11
> 1977 Eleganza II 26-3
> Antigonish, NS
>
> Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

I'll second that Mike. How are you doing BTW? Was hoping to get out east this summer, but the pension just won't allow for 2 cross-country trips in
a row.
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[Ken B]

> > This is the style of clamp you want: Steel for strength during a fire and rubber insulated so it will not vibrate and wear the tube. I do
> > not know the diameter needed.
> >
> > https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
> >
> > I do not know what store brands you have there. I seem to remember a Home Depot near Walmart in Kamloops. What is that about 60K away?
> >
> > Anyway, I am suggesting to try those type of stores if you have one anywhere close. They ought to have those in the electrical section. Do
> > not get the plastic ones. They might melt or break and allow the hose to vibrate. Get the steel and rubber ones and a few 1/2" or 3/4" Phillips
> > head screws. It will be difficult driving them because that wood is very hard up there. It will be difficult getting a powered screwdriver /
> > drill in there. I have a 90 degree angle drill here but that will not do you much good.
> >
> > https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-1-Inch-Cable-Clamp-Rubber-Cushioned-Insulated-Clamp-/392278449363
> >
> > Princess Auto and Home Depot online showed some, but I did not see sizes larger than 3/4". I do not know what size you really need.
> > https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/15-pc-3-4-in-rubber-insulated-cable-clamps/A-p8205437e
> > https://www.homedepot.com/s/Rubber%2520insulated%2520clamps?NCNI-5
>
> Hey Ken. Our Princess Auto has those 3/4" clamps and the tubing is 3/4" diameter, so that's perfect. It's only a 45 minute drive to P' Auto
> (everything is a 45 minute drive from here ) And although Walmart is closer, Princess Auto will be much more interesting to wander through. Who
> knows what I must buy that I don't really need. Might even find a 90 degree angle drill - or just go to Home Depot and what I can spend there. Hey
> - it's spring - time to start spending money on the coach again. Just got 7 new Toyo's on her.
>
> And I'll use Robertson screws Right Bruce?

Now that we know it is 3/4", a local hardware store might have them. I thought the hose was bigger. I really do not remember.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Deb]

> > I have one in my Onan cabinet. The biggest problem with them is that they are Halon and as such need to be way over size for the area you are
> > trying to protect. Halon works very well in enclosed areas, but is terrible in areas with a reasonable amount of airflow.
> >
> > I do not know how well they would protect a running GMC engine because the halon gas get's blown away easily. The nice thing is you can run
> > it to multiple areas and it will only go off in the area that is hot enough to melt the hose. It will then dump it's entire contents in that
> > area. I were using it around the engine then I would mount it in a U fashion to the bottom of the floor around the hatch cover and then run the
> > remaining hose vertically down the back wall so it has a shot at protecting the transmission, oil lines, and transmission lines. Use the provided
> > Adel clamps to hold it in place and get some more at the hardware store if necessary. Keep it well away from any exhaust pipes or headers. You
> > do not want to melt the hose when there is no fire. My preference for engine fires is AR-AFFF foam, but given enough halon dumped it might work.
> >
> > I have a small halon one in the refrigerator cabinet where there is no air flow. I have the tube type like yours in the area around the carb
> > and gas lines of the Onan. I also carry multiple hand held AR-AFFF extinguishers in and outside the coach in case the Halon one does not do the
> > job.
>
> Ken,
> You showed me what you had for your Onan at last years Eastern States work rally. I thought it was something I should get, but so far have not
> done anything about it. Considering what has happened recently, I want to enhance what I currently have. Right now I have FireFight halon in my
> Onan and refrigerator compartments and FireFight foam in the engine area. Also, 7 foam extinguishers located throughout the coach. I need to
> install something I can get to from outside the coach. I want to get a 2nd system (BlazeCut?)for the engine area.
>
> The BlazeCut product might be better than Halon in our application.
>
> According to:
> https://www.chemours.com/FE/en_US/products/fe36.html
>
>
> "FE-36™ is proving to be the standard in-kind replacement for Halon 1211 in portable fire extinguishers. FE-36™ has comparable performance and
> efficiency to Halon 1211, lower toxicity, as well as zero ozone depletion potential. In a portable fire extinguisher, FE-36™ is discharged as a
> stream of gas and liquid droplets that penetrate into the fire area, ceasing the combustion process through heat absorption and a chemical
> interaction. FE-36™ is also a replacement for Halon 1301 in local application systems, such as modular systems."

I liked the chemical specs vs the Halon as well. But since it doesn't really cover or smother the fire with something (like the foam extinguishers) I
am hoping that the GMC engine compartment would be "enclosed" enough that the effects of the sudden release of gas would be effective. Won't know
until there's something to extinguish & I hope that never happens!!! But I am pretty sure that it would give enough protection to allow time to grab
dogs and get out and hopefully enough to turn a foam extinguisher on it to ensure it stays down. I do have to pick up a couple of additional
extinguishers. So far just the one.

The biggest problem is going to be installing it! I have no hoist, no pit, so it will on jack stands/wood blocks from the bottom, and upside down
from the top! I'll give it a good look later today or tomorrow and see what the best approach will be.
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[Ken B]

Richard
AR-AFFF is by far the best extinguishing system for your engine.
If that does not put it out, a little additional halon is not going to help. Halon is a poor choice for GMC engines because it will blow away in the
wind and out the bottom of the engine area. It works a little better in tightly cowled auto engines. Blazecut is halon and has minor advantage over
single nozzle halon heads. Blazecut can be run and mounted all over the place. During a fire the hottest place along that route is where the halon
will be dispersed. That said, AR-AFFF is far superior for fighting engine fires.

That said halon does have some advantages in closed areas like computer rooms, motor rooms, telephone switch rooms, and closed areas where people
might be working. When contained in a room so it can not disperse, it works great. It is non-toxic and does not usually damage electronics. In a
prior life I used to sell halon systems for the above applications. In my coach I used it behind my gas refrigerator and Blazecut around the Onan
because I could get it close to the carb fuel pump and gas lines where a small automatic deploy AR-AFFF extinguisher would not fit.

BTW, I use the name halon as a generic name or term as halon is no longer sold. There are several other new gas substitutes used in Halon's place
that seem to work as well as original Halon.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[slc]

This subject, fire extinguishing components and products, comes up pretty often. Rob Mueller has a write up somewhere about the fire extinguishing
media and equipment, pretty decent page.

Do not go blindly into this. Different extinguishing materials have different results.
Do your homework.

I mentioned CO2 before. CO2 is a gas, similar to many gas extguisher media available.

CO2 works by starving the fire or chemical reaction which causes the fire, from getting any Oxygen.
This effectively puts the fire out as long as there is a supply of CO2 to keep the fuel covered.
The problem with gaseous extinguishments is they fall to the ground or can easily be blown away
by the wind, then AIR will take the place of the receeding gas extinguishing medias place.
As the AIR hits the fuel the chance of fire becomes critical, if the fuel is on a motor, which may
be hot enough to re-ignite the fuel, you are back in the fire again.

ALSO HAVE IN MIND, like the small dry chem extinguishers, you only have under a minute supply of
fire extinguishing media to put that fire out. After that you are empty.

Using water spray has been mentioned before. The big reason is you all carry a 30 gallon water
supply. Misting (the amount of mist heavy or light would need to be tested, would not only cool
the fuel taking the heat part of the equation, thus putting out the fire, but would also cool the
hot metal. Misting is preferred over a deluge to prevent spreading a fuel fed fire on the ground,
which could be worse.

Foam is the best of both worlds, has water in the mix, and a extinguishment to starve the fire
from an air source. Foam will also float on top of a fuel that is burning, which will also starve
the burning fuel. But if using an automated system, the placement of the nozzles could be
hit or miss.

There are some fire protecting covers and I think I read of some fire resistant paint that can
be applied over the motor compartment walls, to slow progress of a fire. (perhaps give time for
the fire department to arrive to put the fire out without losing the coach entirely).

As was mentioned before, an automatic system may not save your coach, but you may get a minute
or two of critical time to dig your way out and escape the vehicle.

--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center

 

[kingsley coach]

Hi Deb

Now you remember that Princess is really a Gentleman's Boutique so act
accordingly upon entering the establishment ! LOL I'm not doing too bad
and just might make it ! I'm cheering for me anyway
I'll be around for your next cross country excursion..that's the problem
with pensions...lotsa time but no money...lol

Mike in NS

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 3:41 PM slc via Gmclist
wrote:

> This subject, fire extinguishing components and products, comes up pretty
> often. Rob Mueller has a write up somewhere about the fire extinguishing
> media and equipment, pretty decent page.
>
> Do not go blindly into this. Different extinguishing materials have
> different results.
> Do your homework.
>
> I mentioned CO2 before. CO2 is a gas, similar to many gas extguisher
> media available.
>
> CO2 works by starving the fire or chemical reaction which causes the fire,
> from getting any Oxygen.
> This effectively puts the fire out as long as there is a supply of CO2 to
> keep the fuel covered.
> The problem with gaseous extinguishments is they fall to the ground or can
> easily be blown away
> by the wind, then AIR will take the place of the receeding gas
> extinguishing medias place.
> As the AIR hits the fuel the chance of fire becomes critical, if the fuel
> is on a motor, which may
> be hot enough to re-ignite the fuel, you are back in the fire again.
>
> ALSO HAVE IN MIND, like the small dry chem extinguishers, you only have
> under a minute supply of
> fire extinguishing media to put that fire out. After that you are empty.
>
> Using water spray has been mentioned before. The big reason is you all
> carry a 30 gallon water
> supply. Misting (the amount of mist heavy or light would need to be
> tested, would not only cool
> the fuel taking the heat part of the equation, thus putting out the fire,
> but would also cool the
> hot metal. Misting is preferred over a deluge to prevent spreading a fuel
> fed fire on the ground,
> which could be worse.
>
> Foam is the best of both worlds, has water in the mix, and a
> extinguishment to starve the fire
> from an air source. Foam will also float on top of a fuel that is burning,
> which will also starve
> the burning fuel. But if using an automated system, the placement of the
> nozzles could be
> hit or miss.
>
> There are some fire protecting covers and I think I read of some fire
> resistant paint that can
> be applied over the motor compartment walls, to slow progress of a fire.
> (perhaps give time for
> the fire department to arrive to put the fire out without losing the coach
> entirely).
>
> As was mentioned before, an automatic system may not save your coach, but
> you may get a minute
> or two of critical time to dig your way out and escape the vehicle.
>
>
> --
> GatsbysCruise. \
> 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
> Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS
> FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
> UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !

 

[Deb]

I will be on my best behaviour Mike. Glad to hear you're doing Ok. Rooting for you here too.
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[Ken B]

> This subject, fire extinguishing components and products, comes up pretty often. Rob Mueller has a write up somewhere about the fire
> extinguishing media and equipment, pretty decent page.
>
> Do not go blindly into this. Different extinguishing materials have different results.
> Do your homework.
>
> I mentioned CO2 before. CO2 is a gas, similar to many gas extinguisher media available.
>
> CO2 works by starving the fire or chemical reaction which causes the fire, from getting any Oxygen.
> This effectively puts the fire out as long as there is a supply of CO2 to keep the fuel covered.
> The problem with gaseous extinguishers is they fall to the ground or can easily be blown away
> by the wind, then AIR will take the place of the receeding gas extinguishing medias place.
> As the AIR hits the fuel the chance of fire becomes critical, if the fuel is on a motor, which may
> be hot enough to re-ignite the fuel, you are back in the fire again.
>
> ( A cautionary note here::: If the gas fire extinguisher media can starve a fire from oxygen, if
> you are BELOW the area of the fire, STAY OUT OF THE AREA THAT THE GAS MEDIA IS FALLING. If it can
> starve a fire fuel from oxygen, IT WILL STARVE YOU FROM OXYGEN ALSO. This type of media tends to
> puddle in low spaces.)
>
> ALSO HAVE IN MIND, like the small dry chem extinguishers, you only have under a minute supply of
> fire extinguishing media to put that fire out. After that you are empty.
>
> Using water spray has been mentioned before. The big reason is you all carry a 30 gallon water
> supply. Misting (the amount of mist heavy or light would need to be tested, would not only cool
> the fuel taking the heat part of the equation, thus putting out the fire, but would also cool the
> hot metal. Misting is preferred over a deluge to prevent spreading a fuel fed fire on the ground,
> which could be worse.
>
> Foam is the best of both worlds, has water in the mix, and a extinguishment to starve the fire
> from an air source. Foam will also float on top of a fuel that is burning, which will also starve
> the burning fuel. But if using an automated system, the placement of the nozzles could be
> hit or miss.
>
> There are some fire protecting covers and I think I read of some fire resistant paint that can
> be applied over the motor compartment walls, to slow progress of a fire. (perhaps give time for
> the fire department to arrive to put the fire out without losing the coach entirely).
>
> As was mentioned before, an automatic system may not save your coach, but you may get a minute
> or two of critical time to dig your way out and escape the vehicle.

That is a VERY GOOD SUMMARY. Every type of extinguisher has it's pluses and minuses. When I had my gasoline fed engine fire while parked. I first
dumped 2 dry chem fire extinguishers on it. All they did was start to corrode everything on the engine. I was grabbing anything I could find. I
grabbed a small Halon and it too was useless. My wife brought me a CO2 and that put it out. I had burning gasoline running across the top of the
engine and down the back and on to the ground. After it made it on the ground it ran and back under the front gas tank. CO2 got it all out. CO2
super cools everything. In a previous life, I was an electrician in an 18,000 employee couple of square miles steel mill. We had to go through fire
training once a year. They did not train us or have AFFF foam, so I never thought about having or using it at home. We were expressly forbidden to
use CO2 on motors because it sometimes crystallized the steel and cast motor frames. We had our own on site motor rebuild shop and the burned motors
were sent there for rebuild. Crystallized motor cores were useless to them. New ones were not available because the place is a 25 cycle powered
plant, built in the 1920's. The motor cores were like gold to the company. Point is if using CO2, do not get too close to anything very hot like
exhaust manifolds and burning carbs. You are likely to destroy them.

You can still use C02. Just do not get carried away with it. I did not get familiar with AR-AFFF and AFFF foam until after my GMC fire when I got to
go though part of the fire department training. I got to use various types of extinguishers and agents on various kinds of fires. They kept foam
until the last because when you were done, the fire was out and they had to dump and reload the various gasoline and jet fuel burn containers after
using foam on them. I also got to see the difference between using AR-AFFF and AFFF on E-10 10% ethanol fueled fires. You definitely want AR-AFFF if
you can find it.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Daniel]

Hi Debbie,

Perhaps you saw my pictures on FB, I have that 3 meter BlazeCut USA Fire extinguish System already since last year ...
Luckily not needed .....

By Daniel.
--
Daniel Jacobs, NL-USA 1977 GMC Eleganza II, 455 newer Tranny+3.55 FD. FiTech and FCC, new Hoses, Selector Valve and Electric Pump, insulated Tanks,
APC, McDash, Dash AC to Enviro Safe. Schräder V+extern Fills, Ceramic Film TPMS FlexSteel Seats