Black tank valve doesn't hold things back

[peer oliver schmidt]

Good day,

what's the best way to go about it? Get a new valve, or are there less expensive/messy options? Eventually I want to go the macerator route, but right
now I just want to get the valve fixed.

Thanks.
--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, CA
'73 Sequoia, NH

 

[LQQKatJon]

Depends on the severity of the whole picture. Original valves and the mounting can be fragile.

You can get new valves and also rebuild
Kits, but you may cause more issues disturbing the valve. It is easy to add a valve downstream, and just leave the old valve open and in place.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

 

[bdub1]

I thought you only needed the end cap. Is the valve at the black tank
giving you trouble as well?
If so, those Thetford valves are rebuildable. Rebuild kits are available.
Depends on how yours is malfunctioning as to whether it'll work for you.
Will it just not close with the remote rod? Have you gotten under there and
tried forcing it at close range?

Billy

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Peer
Oliver Schmidt
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 12:39 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Black tank valve doesn't hold things back

Good day,

what's the best way to go about it? Get a new valve, or are there less
expensive/messy options? Eventually I want to go the macerator route, but
right
now I just want to get the valve fixed.

Thanks.
--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, CA
'73 Sequoia, NH

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[peer oliver schmidt]

For now all I know it is not closing. I will know more details when I get under it.

Thanks for the note re downstream and rebuilding. Both gives me something to think about.
--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, SH, Germany

 

[Matt Colie]

Peer,

The Thetford valves have different fastener spacing than all the others. So, if you don't want a major headache, you have to get a Thetford valve
back on there.

The fastener bosses often (usually) crack, but they can be made to hold load again if you drill several very small holes in the web and wrap them with
safety wire (aircraft style) the threads of the upper two may be saved and the lower still used. The lower two can be drilled through 6mm and long
enough fasteners used so washers and ESN (elastic stop nut - Nylok) for those. But the top two really don't want to be drilled through because the
head will be inside the tank.... With the .032 (0.75mm) stainless saftey wire (about 6~8 turns) I have been able to Heilcoil (Spiral wire insert)
those upper two and successfully make the fastener load. The bear with the Heilcoil is that the drive tag used to install it has to be removed from
the blind hole.

I made a great effort to design a workable adapter to the other valves, but I just could never get to where I could turn it loose to the world.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[shaun]

I'm with Jon. The quick and easy is to add a generic valve downstream until you get a macerator. Then you can replace your Thetford valve on the tank
later and re-use your generic valve as your stinky slinky back up.
--
1977 Palm Beach, 455, mostly stock and original