New tanks come with the toilet flange located under the hole in the floor
of the coach where the toilet is located.
The lavatory sink, and kitchen sink, as well as the roof vents on the
original tanks were glued/plastic welded into the tank, and fastened to the
plumbing by various methods, depending upon which upfitter or year of the
coach. Some are as Emery has described them, but many are vastly different.
That is why I recommend dropping the tank, and doing an extremely careful
inspection of the tank and all of the fittings. Time is your enemy where
plastic tanks and plumbing are concerned. On the new tanks a different
method is now used. You measure 2 or 3 times, then cut holes with a hole
saw and cordless drill. Then, using the slickest, snottiest lube you can
find, worry neoprene grommets into the top of the tank where you bored the
holes. The plumbing is a slip fit into the top of the grommets with lube.
Once and done, flexible enough to not break the tank. EZ-PZ.
Jim Hupy
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019, 2:02 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <
>
>
> > On Jan 9, 2019, at 7:04 PM, Skip Hartline
> >
> > Evening all,
> > I know it has been discussed but I'm thinking about dropping my black
> tank on my 74 canyonlands, one of the few things I haven't tackled yet. As
> I see
> > it somehow the kitchen drain has to be unhooked in the spot under the
> electrical panel, the toilet has to be removed then it's flange unscrews
> from
> > the tank, but I can't figure how the sink and shower drain unhooks
> before dropping the tank. One of those mental blocks, cranal flatulence you
> know.
> > Any help or hints would sure be appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Skip hartline
> >
>
> Skip
> You have three tubes sticking down into the top of the tank.
> One is the toilet pipe, another is from the shower drain/sink drain/ vent
> tube.
> The third is from the kitchen sink.
>
> The shower/sink drain slides down into a fitting that has a groove for a
> square O ring. These are prone to leakage and often result with sewage all
> over the top of the tank.
> The kitchen one has a metal flange similar to the screw on ring on a trap
> below your house sink.
>
> If you look at
>
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3276-kitchen-sink-drain-to-holding-tank.html
> <
>
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3276-kitchen-sink-drain-to-holding-tank.html
> >
> you’ll see how to upgrade the kitchen sink drain.
>
> As to the slip fitting it is best to replace it with half of a rubber
> coupling. This will be easier and prevent sewage leaking. You can fasten
> it to the top of the tank with a stainless steel spiral clamp. Then when
> you put the tank up you can attach the pipe from the shower/ sink by
> putting it into the rubber coupling and fastening it from the top with a
> clamp. You may have to cut some from from the bottom of the vent pipe. It
> will be necessary to remove the water tank when working from the top. It
> is also a good time to cover the area around the pipe (the mouse hole) with
> some flashing so as to prevent mice from getting into your motorhome. See
> here:
>
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4986-holding-tank-top-fitting.html <
>
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4986-holding-tank-top-fitting.html>
>
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
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