Birchaven pickup adventure - Texas to Portland

[Christo]

Greetings forum members. I just closed the deal on this little guy
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It's a 1976 Birchaven rear bath with about 60K miles on it. It's bounced around through several short term owners over the couple years, but it looks to have been loved by one of the previous owners who added several notable accessories. It has a MacNeal dash, Bogie Greasers , Air Bag Cutoff Kit, wind wings, and maybe a few others that I am unaware of. The interior is mostly original mechanicals with some reupholstery here and there.

Question on how to research the VIN: How can I trace the VIN history? Most online VIN lookup services require 17-digits however the the VIN on this vehicle is 13-digits (TZE336V10XXXX)?

Our plan is to pick it up from Texas next Wednesday (Sept 23rd) and plan to drive it back to our home in Portland, OR along this route:
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Both my wife and I are new to GMC's and new to RV camping, so needless to say we have a lot to learn! Our plan is to start out slow with testing and prepping the coach systems. They are all reported to work, but not been used in the last 2 years, so there is a lot of uncertainty there. If we can get most of the systems working, we will stay in the coach and make some leisurely stops in Moab UT and Twin Falls, ID.

I could use your help in prepping / testing the coach systems....

Gas: Should I add a fuel additive to address the old fuel (seafoam, gumout, stp, etc). I have no idea how old the fuel is but it was last driven 1000-miles in January. I was thinking of filling both takes full with new gas. Suggestions?

Freshwater: I'll need to clean and flush this before using. Should I use diluted bleach or use a specialty cleaning/disinfectant product sold at camp stores? Does the shore water inlet have a pressure reducer or do I need to use an external one, if so what pressure should it be reduced to?

Propane tank: I'll need to fill it. Should I "flush the tank" or just fill it. Should I replace the original regulator with a dual stage before I get going? If so, is there a specific size model recommended.We are likely going to make a camping world visit to get supplies before we hit the road, I see this one is available.

Propane Accessories: Any special considerations testing the LP accessories (Range, H2O heater, fridge)? I was thinking of cleaning out the ignition systems with a vacuum or compressed air before lighting.

Generator: Any considerations before running this thing. I was thinking of waiting to service it until I got home. But I plan to use it on the way back, are there some must do's? I see there service kits available, can someone confirm the correct service kit for the 4000W unit?

Okay that's a lot of questions, I'll stop there.

Thanks in advance!

I'm a little late to reply, but I'll respond to a few of the items not answered by others. Yes you should switch to a dual-stage propane regulator but it can wait until you get home.

There's a procedure to clean the fresh water tank in the operator's manual. You can find it on bdub.net along with the service manual, wiring diagrams and parts book. There's also a part number cross reference available on gmcmi.com. Don't expect the fresh water tank to be potable (drinkable), but it's good for showers, doing the dishes, etc. There's no pressure reducer on the fresh water inlet so yes you want to use an external one. In fact, it's preferable to use the fresh water tank vs city water at first because if there are any leaks you'll hear the pump run. Some people never use city water for this reason. Also, keep in mind that the gray/black water tank(s) fill up faster than you'd think.

On fuel, it sounds like it's okay but SeaFoam wouldn't hurt.

 

[benno]

Hey everybody, today was the day we went to pick-up our Buttercup Birchaven 23’. What a stressful day of traveling in the new Covid era! Masks on for several hours crammed into airplanes.

Needless to say we were happy to arrive at the shop where our vehicle received its pre purchase inspection. Most everything checked out as stated with two exceptions. Related to the vehicle there seems to be some play in the steering that the mechanics want not able to resolve. Wheel bearings are good, tie-rods are good and equal, alignment it in spec. Power steering pump and system is not leaking and clean fluid.

The second problem, the seller was diagnosed with COVID over the weekend and had since was hospitalized! We made prior arrangements to do close the transaction with The mechanic. But this was very sad to hear. I hope he makes a good recovery.

I closed the deal with the known issue in the steering. We are driving from Lubbock Texas and will be In Albuquerque tomorrow. The play in the steering makes for some exhaustive driving. I a, thinking it may be good idea to consider repairing it on the way back.

Maybe you all can give me some suggestions. The symptom feels like it is between the rack and less like play in the wheels or suspension. I can wiggle the steering wheel about an 1” rotation before it influences the wheels. The mechanic in is troubleshooting jacked up the front and tested the wheel bearings, tie rod ends, control arms, cv boots. He mentioned they replaced the steer damper as well but all had no improvement.

Thoughts or suggestions?

Pictures tomorrow

 

[Gabriel]

Congrats on the purchase @benno

I'm new here as well and hoping to purchase a 1977 23' Birchaven, so i'm following this thread with keen interest.

Sorry I'm of no help to your questions, but the other members here thankfully seem to have a wealth of knowledge. Best of luck and safe travels!

 

[tmsnyder]

1 inch of movement in the wheel before movement in the tires doesn't seem like too big a deal to me as long as it drives nice otherwise. Sounds like it's not though.

Did the mechanic check the front alignment at least? Camber and caster? It's pretty easy to check and adjust.

 

[Matt Colie]

Mike,
The fact that the tie rods are equal is interesting, but unimportant. The problem is created by the alignment techs that don't read the book.

First check: Pop up the horn button (if you can) and look at the top of the column shaft. There should be a chisel mark at straight ahead. If it is not at straight ahead, then some one did the tow setup wrong. This happens all the time.

The TZE steering box has an interference section at straight ahead. If it isn't where straight ahead is, it make for the problem you are having. It is all explained in the 7525 service manual. If you don't have it, you can download it at GMCMI.

 

[JSanford]

From looking at the pictures you posted, your GMC is way too high in the back for highway cruising. The rear should be substantially lower than the front otherwise it will be all over the road.

If you have your Electrolevel set to Auto and the GMC is level like in the pictures you need to manually adjust it for now. Set Electrolevel to Hold and then lower both sides until you have a noticeably droopy ass, then get on the road and see how it feels.

 

[pvfjr]

Congrats on your purchase, Mike! It's funny to read this thread. I had a similar plan exactly a year ago. I bought a wrecked, non-running GMC from an insurance auction in Phoenix impulsively, completely sight-unseen. I had to drive it back home to the Salem area, and it was quite an experience. If you get to feeling bad about your situation, you can always read about our debacle here: https://www.gmcmhforum.com/threads/the-ferrigno-familys-1975-gmc-glenbrook.342/

I wish you a less eventful trip. Hopefully you can focus more on the scenery than constant roadside fixes. Your coach looks much better prepared for the trip, and having the inspection already done is a good step in the right direction. Where there's a will, there's a way. You'll probably encounter some hiccups, but keep at it and you'll get it home OK. Hopefully you don't have an "itinerary". My wife did, but I never really believed in it.

 

[Mike_H]

Following along on FB, sounds like Mike is having some Power troubles. Something about loosing all power (AC and DC) in his coach. Wish him the best.

 

[tmsnyder]

What Jeremy said!

The ride height has to be right to drive right. It can have an effect. Off the top of my head and hopefully someone can correct me, but there are oval cutouts in the frame. Front, the top should be at 13-1/8", rear is something like 11-1/2". There's some good writeups on this.

From looking at the pictures you posted, your GMC is way too high in the back for highway cruising. The rear should be substantially lower than the front otherwise it will be all over the road.

If you have your Electrolevel set to Auto and the GMC is level like in the pictures you need to manually adjust it for now. Set Electrolevel to Hold and then lower both sides until you have a noticeably droopy ass, then get on the road and see how it feels.

 

[benno]

Hi gang, Thanks for the feedback.

Regarding right height. I have the airbags isolated with lockout valves with 50psi in each bag. I have a leak in the tubing on the passenger side So the electro level is not operational. I can manually add / remove air if someone can give me a precise measurement or psi recommendation. I may try and repair on the road if I can find some 1/4” air tubing.

regarding steering box alignment, I’ll need to tackle those inspections when I get home. I did notice the play is someplace in the box. I watched the movements of the steering wheel, there is play before I see movement on the rack. .The steering boot is shredded too. What are my options the steering box? Rebuild or replace. Any tips for the boot as well? I noticed all the tie rod ends and some steering joints have grease fittings, is that stock?

Our First night Just outside of Albuquerque in “Birchy” was uneventful. We parked and conducted out first system test, shore power, that seemed to work ok so we turned on the fridge to see if that would work. I tested shore water and found a leak under the rear bathroom sink. A coupler fitting was split. We stopped testing had hit they hay. The fridge was cool but not by much. It doesn’t seem to perform very well

Second night we made it to Moab. We are getting about 8mph. Engine and tranny seem to be running strong and we noticed this rig has the finned alloy tranny pan and differential cover. No leaks on the ground and things look pretty dry. I was able to fix water leak with a $1 part from Home Depot. Filled and tested the propane tank and got the stove running. Later that evening.

as some of you have seen on Facebook, We had our first major issue, or DC fuse panel blew in a manner that prevented power distribution from the main fuse to the secondaries. Troubleshooting was compounded by the fact that I miss understood which way the ac interlock worked and thought my AC systems were not functioning. I was able to learnhow My interlock works (opposite to the manuals) and restore AC power, as well make a temp fix to my house Dc fuses by bridging the panel on the front side.

I Tested the onboard water system, the pump works but I seem to have a leak somewhere under the vehicle. I was not able to find it on my fist round of inspections so I drained the tank. Next stop we hook up to shore water, I’ll see if is still have the leak so I can isolate It to the onboard system.

I was also able to get the propane lit for he fridge if we need it.

Tomorrow, we are headed out for some Mtb riding and a short drive north of about 120miles. But then we will need to cover 300-400 miles a day to get home.
Sorry no pics, the WiFi here is terrible and I can’t load them

 

[benno]

Day 4 started with a over fuel fill fiasco that tells me I need drop the tanks and replace all the fuel lines. Here is a pic of the mess I made. Thankfully the attendant was prepared and very helpful. I thought I was being clever by continuing to fill after the auto shut off. This was super stressful experience and I never what not that t to happen again so getting the fuel system repaired when I get home will be a priority. I’ll be looking for someone to do the service, for those who paid to have it done, what are some cost estimates?


We waited for the drips to stop and headed out of Moab about 30 miles for some mountain biking and lunch. Life was good again. We love this little gem when it parked


Afterward we drove to Provo without incident. Shore power and water are working as they should and I was able to get the fridge to run on propane as well. we had a lovely dinner at the Local KOA and tested out the famous bunk beds




Tomorrow’s plan is to make it 300 miles to Idaho falls for some boondock camping and MTB riding. Or, we may soldier on to Boise.

 

[Matt Colie]

Mike,

Your fuel situation is well known to more than a few of us. (Says the guy that has had is tanks down five times.) What you have is typical symptoms of rotten rubber fuel lines. They can't all be replaced without removing both tanks. The fill vent line will continue to leak when filling until it is all replaced. At this point the best you can do is to try to not have and ecological disaster before you get to the home moorings.

There was a design issue that makes the system less than good with modern "motorfuels". I have a cure for one of them that is very successful on my 23. When you get along side, send me an address and I will pass you both write-ups. One is about taking the tanks down and back up and the other is about fixing the fueling problem.

My coach looked almost that bad once.

Matt

 

[benno]

Hi everyone, we made it home safe and sound. Things turned out a little better in the second half of the trip. I changed the air filter and added some seafoam, and we started to see much better MPG. We actually averaged about 12mpg for the second half of the trip. We tried boondocking a couple nights and that was a lot of fun. I was able to get the furnace working and the water and sewer tanks working. I wanted to thank you all for your help and support as we brought this rig home. I have some big repairs that are needed before this GMC is truly functional. The main big repairs include new fuel lines, rebuild steering box, rebuild/replace steering shaft and boot, and replacing the air-lines for the rear suspension.

I can take on some of the repairs myself but I am looking for a regional mechanic to help me with the fuel line project. I live in Portland Oregon, are there local mechanics, or local forum members that I can use as helpful resources?

If there are good help guides in the online forums, I would appreciate links to DYI guides.

 

[Russell]

Glad to hear you made it home safe. The first adventure of many has been completed. Now the work begins.