Best use for space after removing old microwave

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mark1

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My '78 still has the original HUGE, HEAVY microwave, which seems to take up a whole lot more space than necessary. My beloved PO installed a small TV
above the stove, and as it happens, I found a compact microwave that will fit in the same spot, so my plan is to pull out the old one.

My plan is to convert the resultant hole to storage, and I figure that there have to be folks here who have done the same thing. I'd love to hear /
see what kind of storage solutions have been installed in place of the antique microwave.
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
Mark,
This is how we did the makeover of the Kitchen area in our 77 Eleganza.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3022-interior-restoration.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3972-kitchen-vent-hood.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/1977-interior/p37051-gedc00421.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/1977-interior/p37064-gedc0055.html

A Lot of people used to put the microwave down where the oven was located,
but you had to get down on your knees to use it and look at it. We put the
MW at eye level, added a 2 burner cooktop and used the space available
under the cooktop for additional storage space.

Regards,

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Undergoing Frame up Restoration)

> My '78 still has the original HUGE, HEAVY microwave, which seems to take
> up a whole lot more space than necessary. My beloved PO installed a small
> TV
> above the stove, and as it happens, I found a compact microwave that will
> fit in the same spot, so my plan is to pull out the old one.
>
> My plan is to convert the resultant hole to storage, and I figure that
> there have to be folks here who have done the same thing. I'd love to hear
> /
> see what kind of storage solutions have been installed in place of the
> antique microwave.
> --
> Mark Hickey
> Mesa, AZ
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Thanks! I might have trouble sourcing a matching door for my coach (it's the dark walnut finish that Coachmen built into the Royale Center Kitchen
coaches). That would make it easy - otherwise I'm thinking I might look for some sort of see-through, pull-out drawer to fit into the space.
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
Hello Mark.
On my center kitchen I took out both microwave and gas burners. Then put in a convection oven/microwave in the old microwave hole. I then put in a new
countertop without the gas burners. But I was looking for more countertop space versus storage space. I really like this setup. But John is right,
most of the time I’m on my knees when I’m programming the oven. But it does make a nice supplement heater in the winter time!
Scott
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas
 
I'd love to see the photos - I always like to see the options before I get TOO far along on any project! Thanks!
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
Well, making progress.

Here's the original configuration (with the old-school TV / VCR in the custom cabinet)...

Now, there's a microwave in that spot. It was a little more difficult than expected, since the cabinet of the microwave isn't square, but rounded (to
make room for a pretty impressively large turntable). Even better, it should run just fine on my 1000 watt inverter.

And now there's a big, beautiful hole underneath where that huge (HEAVY) 1970's vintage microwave used to be...

I've ordered a custom pull-out drawer that will bolt into that hole, and a custom door that should match the other (walnut) doors in the coach, at
least after I stain it... Now I just have to wait for the drawer and door to come in! The only tiny glitch I can see at this point is that there's
an odd bump on the top of the fender, which will require me to install a (guessing) 1/2" runner under the drawer rails so it's level.

Should be great to have some real kitchen storage instead of that tank of a microwave!
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
Mark,

I like that a lot better than the grovel on the floor version. But, will it do Pizza?

Do you have a better place now for the 65" screen? ;)

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Believe it or not, a small(ish) pizza WILL fit in the microwave. It's designed to hold a "full size dinner plate". I'd guess the turntable is 12"
with a little "wiggle room" around the edges (which is a lot better than most of the small microwaves). OTOH, that's what made it difficult to make
it fit. It fit in the "TV-size hole", but there was no way to put the microwave in after installing the mount. So I had to add about 3/4" in width
to the opening so I could slide the microwave in after everything else was in place. Luckily, the front "feet" are entirely hollow, and perfectly
sized so that I was able to hole-cut some divots out of some 3/4" plywood, which fit inside the feet, keeping it all in place (the microwave is also
wedged against wood in the back of the mount, so it's really very stable). I don't think my brakes will ever be good enough to dislodge it. ;)

I'm still ruminating over where to put the media center... for now, it'll probably just be the wife's laptop (which has a larger screen than the TV we
removed, and is MUCH higher-definition and capable, of course). There's room under the genset controls (typical Royale placement, which would put a
smallish flat-screen at the rear end of the couch so it could be viewed from pretty much any seating position. A 65" screen might give me a sore
neck. ;)

--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
I got the custom door - looks great, and should match the rest of the doors in the coach...

IF I get the right stain.

Anyone have any suggestions on the best stain to match the dark walnut stain / finish of the Royale coaches?

If it matters, the door is red oak (fairly light, but should take stain very well).
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
I have a 1978 Royale 26 foot with the Walnut cabinets. When I first got my
coach, the roof leaked, and water had stained the cabinet drawer fronts and
doors. I removed them all, and put them in my heated shop and dried
everything out. I sanded them all with 220 grit, followed by 600 grit. Then
blew everything with compressed air. I used shellac as the base color, and
it matched the cabinets very well. Shellac is absolutely water proof but
not alcohol proof. So, after the shellac was dry, I scuffed it with green
scotchbrite and tack cloth wiped the pieces, then followed that with satin
finish exterior polyurethane. 2 coats. That was in 2008. They still look
great.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> I got the custom door - looks great, and should match the rest of the
> doors in the coach...
>
> IF I get the right stain.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions on the best stain to match the dark walnut
> stain / finish of the Royale coaches?
>
> If it matters, the door is red oak (fairly light, but should take stain
> very well).
> --
> Mark Hickey
> Mesa, AZ
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Mark,

It's always best to test finishes on some scrap pieces. Red Oak is ubiquitous and you probably have some scraps lying around. Don't over sand woods
that are to be stained, particularly woods that have big differences in growth rings such as ring porous woods like red oak. Research it - 180 grit
is more than enough for sanding before staining. Save the finer grits for sanding between coats. Using an initial coat of shellac will allow you to
tweak things in the following coats. It's common practice in furniture refinishing and repair to use shellac as a barrier coat, allowing the
following coats to be separated and/or removed if necessary. Shellac is wonderful and very forgiving, and is the basis for French Polishing, possibly
the most beautiful finish ever created, but it is not water friendly. If you've ever seen white rings on a nice piece of furniture it's from someone
putting down a cold drink (probably an icy gin and tonic) on the top. The condensation from the glass will create the white ring. That's why French
Polished furniture is waxed. You can use any finish on top of shellac and water-based polyurethane is probably the most common.

Have fun with it.

Richard
--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemonte waiting its turn
 
Mark,
Go back to the shop that made your door and ask for cutoffs. They'll have lots of small scraps of the same wood, maybe even your cutoffs that you can
play with to find the right stain and finish combination.
--
Douglas & Virginia Smith,
dsmithy18 at gmail,
Lincoln Nebraska,
’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
 
Thanks for all the sage advice! I'm fairly concerned that the finish has to be water-friendly, since the door is going to be where it could easily
get splashed from the sink or even something on the stovetop.

The rest of the wood in the coach doesn't seem to have any kind of sealant, but seems to drink in the oil-based products (like Murphy's oil) I want to
try to keep the new door "in sync" (kind of ruling out a polyurethan over-coat).

I'm an old hand at staining, and plan on using the back of the door as my test-bed to determine how it's taking the stain (I can use each of the four
"border boards" if necessary). And in the end, because of the location (one of the darker places in the coach, low enough it's not really terribly
visible, and will likely have dish towels hanging over it most of the time anyway) even if the stain doesn't come out as a 100.000% match, it's not
likely to be noticeable.

I'm still looking at my options, and will post a photo of the finished product (still no update on when the drawer will ship).
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
This album shows how we changed the kitchen and made it wife friendly! A
lot of people put the MW where the oven was and it was almost impossible to
see inside..

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3022-interior-restoration.html

Look at all the pictures and read the captions where listed.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

> Thanks for all the sage advice! I'm fairly concerned that the finish has
> to be water-friendly, since the door is going to be where it could easily
> get splashed from the sink or even something on the stovetop.
>
> The rest of the wood in the coach doesn't seem to have any kind of
> sealant, but seems to drink in the oil-based products (like Murphy's oil) I
> want to
> try to keep the new door "in sync" (kind of ruling out a polyurethan
> over-coat).
>
> I'm an old hand at staining, and plan on using the back of the door as my
> test-bed to determine how it's taking the stain (I can use each of the four
> "border boards" if necessary). And in the end, because of the location
> (one of the darker places in the coach, low enough it's not really terribly
> visible, and will likely have dish towels hanging over it most of the time
> anyway) even if the stain doesn't come out as a 100.000% match, it's not
> likely to be noticeable.
>
> I'm still looking at my options, and will post a photo of the finished
> product (still no update on when the drawer will ship).
> --
> Mark Hickey
> Mesa, AZ
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Remember that regardless of the stain or finish, the color will "age" from exposure to sunlight until in some months time it will finally cure...

CJ Vermeulen, Scribbler

From: "Mark"
To: "gmclist"
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 1:31:35 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Best use for space after removing old microwave

Thanks for all the sage advice! I'm fairly concerned that the finish has to be water-friendly, since the door is going to be where it could easily
get splashed from the sink or even something on the stovetop.

The rest of the wood in the coach doesn't seem to have any kind of sealant, but seems to drink in the oil-based products (like Murphy's oil) I want to
try to keep the new door "in sync" (kind of ruling out a polyurethan over-coat).

I'm an old hand at staining, and plan on using the back of the door as my test-bed to determine how it's taking the stain (I can use each of the four
"border boards" if necessary). And in the end, because of the location (one of the darker places in the coach, low enough it's not really terribly
visible, and will likely have dish towels hanging over it most of the time anyway) even if the stain doesn't come out as a 100.000% match, it's not
likely to be noticeable.

I'm still looking at my options, and will post a photo of the finished product (still no update on when the drawer will ship).
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Mark,

It seems you have conflicting criteria for your door finish. If the current doors are soaking up Murphy's maybe they haven't been adequately sealed?
If I'm looking for waterproof I equate that to low or zero maintenance, excepting damage. I'm not suggesting you refinish all of your coach's
cabinetry. It's tough to achieve a good match to both tonal color and sheen with a single product if you don't know what was originally applied.
After tonal match is achieved, I like top coating with a brushing lacquer like Delft. It's nasty stuff, and it's a must to wear a good organic
respirator with fresh cartridges, but it's pretty bulletproof and beautiful and looks sprayed if applied in several thin coats. The glossier the
finish the more it will show imperfections, but it's easy enough to knock down a slightly too glossy finish with very fine grit sandpaper, so if I'm
going to err it'll be on the too glossy side.

Richard
--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemonte waiting its turn
 
Richard, you're probably right. I guess I've never worried TOO much about water damage, as we've been careful and (AFAIK) never really got the
cabinets wet, and of course, we live in the desert. ;)

I do admit that I like the look of freshly-oiled walnut, as opposed to the "sealed" look. Kind of like a car with clear coat, or that can be buffed
and waxed. The former is nice and low-maintenance, but the latter is really the gold standard.

I might never get a 100.000% perfect match, but given the location of the door, it's not going to be a problem unless I miss by a mile. ;)
--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
I agree on the finishes - more work/maintenance is usually more better/beautiful. Nice looking coach BTW.

R
--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemonte waiting its turn
 
Thanks, Richard...

Well, I got the drawer in, and am happy with the result. The stain isn't a 100% match, but really is plenty close that it's a non-issue. I really
like the way the door opens (push to open, push again to latch), and the drawer works very well (with a soft-close in the last inch or so).

I think the following should be a (poor) video showing how it works...

http://www.hickey.house/tvtomwvideo.mp4

Here are some stills - I think it's a LOT more useful than that antique, heavy microwave!

--
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
 
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