Best oil to use?

Otterwan

Otterwan

New member
Jul 14, 2013
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2
1
Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the motor likes it.

So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no smoke at all.
--
1976 Royale "Twinkie II"

"Aspergers syndrome, or something like that. A talent for seeing patterns and understanding abstract reasoning where other people perceive only white noise." - Mikael Blomkvist, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.
 
> Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the motor likes it.
>
> So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no smoke at all.
You definitely want multi-vis, not straight 30 weight.

I use 10W30. Emery Stora has me convinced not to tell people to use 10W40 in hot climates. And his argument for 15W40 synthetic is compelling.

I think Emery uses 15W40 all year and everywhere, even though it doesn't get that hot where he drives all the time. Myself, I think that is thicker than ideal, but Emery says the 10W30 viscosity enhancers begin to fail under the loads the 455 is under in normal driving.

Emery knows his stuff, but I will stick with 10W30 until the engine fails, and it will take some convincing to make me believe the 10W30 caused it.

Avoid 5WXX and 20WXX oils altogether.
--
'73 23' Sequoia For Camping
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
UA (Upper Alabama)
"Time is money. If you use YOUR time, you get to keep YOUR money."
 
I'm convinced that dura lub is the gold standard. It was in 1989 when I came upon a fellow demonstrating Mac products, he had the friction machine where you oil a friction surface with a few drops then apply pressure til it seizes . I handed him a bottle of dura lub which I had just purchased at target. There was only he and I no others were present. He was using Quaker state Dino oil, he added a few drops of my dura lub to the Quaker state mixed it up then with drew all lub, the spun it up then added the pressure, he could. Not make the devise seize, while the Quaker state alone seized at 25 lbs on the torque wrench. The torque wrench had a max reading of 150 lbs with the dura lub and the devise kept turning. Since that day I've added dura lube to every oil I use, even in my lawn mower, any electric motor, and certainly my auto engines.you are getting the raw truth, I have no dog in this fight. Good luck. 74 glacier.

Have a great day, larry c.

>
>
> Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the motor likes it.
>
> So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no smoke at all.
> --
> 1976 Royale "Twinkie II"
>
> "Aspergers syndrome, or something like that. A talent for seeing patterns and understanding abstract reasoning where other people perceive only white noise." - Mikael Blomkvist, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
> Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the motor likes it.
>
> So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no smoke at all.



For your purposes, I stand by my comment that it really doesn't matter. 10W30, 10W40, 15W50, dino, regular, zinc additive, diesel oil... we have many, many owners running each of these options. While engines fail for a lot of reasons, a properly filled and changed oil pan with a reputable oil with reasonable viscosity is probably not going to be your problem.

Pick your favorite and go with it. If one oil was the solution we'd have all switched conclusively to it by now. The fact that we have so many ideas and so many people running options should be enough proof that it doesn't matter all that much. Change the oil regularly, keep an eye on how much is in the pan and how much you burn, and a "bad" oil will probably not be the cause of a failure on a 35+ year old engine.

For the record, I run MobilOne 10W40 High Mileage synthetic since I run it in other vehicles as well. I like having 1 oil around the house and, while it's probably more expensive than my personal theory indicates is necessary, it works for me. I wouldnt recommend it, nor would I tell someone ANY reputable oil is the wrong one to use...
--
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
 
Here is our story and we are sticking to it!
Coming down grade in to Grand Junction Co.
Susie was driving our 74 GMC
She noticed smoke pouring out the back.
Susie hung on and costed in to a truck stop.
I lifted the hatch oil ever where.
Not a drop in the engine.
I refilled the engine with ? oil and drive on to Henderson NV.
At our daughters home I changed out the ? oil back to Mobil 1
The engine is fine,the oil sample I sent in came back all +'s
We have only used Mobil 1 in this engine after it was rebuilt six years ago.
Mobil 1 is the only oil recommended by GM in the Corvette.

Howard
Alpine Ca
74 Canyon Lands

All is well with my Lord

>
>
> Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the motor likes it.
>
> So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no smoke at all.
> --
> 1976 Royale "Twinkie II"
>
> "Aspergers syndrome, or something like that. A talent for seeing patterns and understanding abstract reasoning where other people perceive only white noise." - Mikael Blomkvist, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
Listen to Bob DeK. He manages a huge fleet of U-haul trucks. Use your
choice of oils, change it at regular intervals, filter every other change,
and drive them often enough to burn off the condensation. They will last a
long time if you do.
Jim Hupy
Salem,

>
>

> > Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use
> straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the interwebz
> recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic
> if the motor likes it.
> >
> > So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no
> smoke at all.
>
>
>
> For your purposes, I stand by my comment that it really doesn't matter.
> 10W30, 10W40, 15W50, dino, regular, zinc additive, diesel oil... we have
> many, many owners running each of these options. While engines fail for a
> lot of reasons, a properly filled and changed oil pan with a reputable oil
> with reasonable viscosity is probably not going to be your problem.
>
> Pick your favorite and go with it. If one oil was the solution we'd have
> all switched conclusively to it by now. The fact that we have so many ideas
> and so many people running options should be enough proof that it doesn't
> matter all that much. Change the oil regularly, keep an eye on how much is
> in the pan and how much you burn, and a "bad" oil will probably not be the
> cause of a failure on a 35+ year old engine.
>
> For the record, I run MobilOne 10W40 High Mileage synthetic since I run it
> in other vehicles as well. I like having 1 oil around the house and, while
> it's probably more expensive than my personal theory indicates is
> necessary, it works for me. I wouldnt recommend it, nor would I tell
> someone ANY reputable oil is the wrong one to use...
> --
> Thanks,
> Jeremy Knezek
> 1976 Glenbrook
> Birmingham, AL
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
 
> Here is our story and we are sticking to it!
> Coming down grade in to Grand Junction Co.
> Susie was driving our 74 GMC
> She noticed smoke pouring out the back.
> Susie hung on and costed in to a truck stop.
> I lifted the hatch oil ever where.
> Not a drop in the engine.
> I refilled the engine with ? oil and drive on to Henderson NV.
> At our daughters home I changed out the ? oil back to Mobil 1
> The engine is fine,the oil sample I sent in came back all +'s
> We have only used Mobil 1 in this engine after it was rebuilt six years ago.
> Mobil 1 is the only oil recommended by GM in the Corvette.
>
> Howard
> Alpine Ca
> 74 Canyon Lands
>
> All is well with my Lord

Howard,

¿¿All you had to do was put oil back in??

¿¿The leak stopped all by itself??

Come on man - Share.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
You really just have to put the smoke back in and the oil will reappear.
--
John Lebetski
Chicago, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
 
I use either Rotella or Delo, 15-40, whichever's cheaper on oil change weekend in the toad and the GMC. The Ranger and Grand Caravan get 5W-20 of usually Pennzoil, Quaker State, or Valvoline, whichever is cheaper. Often 'cheaper' means a throw - in filter. The GMC is the lowest mileage of the four, none have ever had an oil related problem..... nor do I expect one in the future.

--johnny
'76 23' transmode Norris
'76 palm beach
--------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Best oil to use?
To: gmclist
Date: Tuesday, July 16, 2013, 6:49 PM




> Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual
says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are
"acceptable". Many on the interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50.
I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the
motor likes it.
>
> So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K
original miles, no smoke at all.



For your purposes, I stand by my comment that it really
doesn't matter. 10W30, 10W40, 15W50, dino, regular, zinc
additive, diesel oil... we have many, many owners running
each of these options. While engines fail for a lot of
reasons, a properly filled and changed oil pan with a
reputable oil with reasonable viscosity is probably not
going to be your problem.

Pick your favorite and go with it. If one oil was the
solution we'd have all switched conclusively to it by now.
The fact that we have so many ideas and so many people
running options should be enough proof that it doesn't
matter all that much. Change the oil regularly, keep an eye
on how much is in the pan and how much you burn, and a "bad"
oil will probably not be the cause of a failure on a 35+
year old engine.

For the record, I run MobilOne 10W40 High Mileage synthetic
since I run it in other vehicles as well. I like having 1
oil around the house and, while it's probably more expensive
than my personal theory indicates is necessary, it works for
me. I wouldnt recommend it, nor would I tell someone ANY
reputable oil is the wrong one to use...
--
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
Remember the oil commercial some decades ago when they filled a taxi, drained it, and then did a shift in New York with it? Some pundit in one of the aviation mags had the answer: Let's put some teeth in it. Take a Twin Beech and drain the oil from both sides. Leave Miami, the course is 090, and see how far it goes. Much more interesting, I thought.

--johnny

--------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Best oil to use?
To: gmclist
Date: Tuesday, July 16, 2013, 7:14 PM

Listen to Bob DeK. He manages a huge
fleet of U-haul trucks. Use your
choice of oils, change it at regular intervals, filter every
other change,
and drive them often enough to burn off the condensation.
They will last a
long time if you do.
Jim Hupy
Salem,
On Jul 16, 2013 11:49 AM, "Jeremy"


>
>

> > Once again research only adds to the confusion.
Manual says to use
> straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable".
Many on the interwebz
> recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying
for full synthetic
> if the motor likes it.
> >
> > So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with
85K original miles, no
> smoke at all.
>
>
>
> For your purposes, I stand by my comment that it really
doesn't matter.
> 10W30, 10W40, 15W50, dino, regular, zinc additive,
diesel oil... we have
> many, many owners running each of these options. While
engines fail for a
> lot of reasons, a properly filled and changed oil pan
with a reputable oil
> with reasonable viscosity is probably not going to be
your problem.
>
> Pick your favorite and go with it. If one oil was the
solution we'd have
> all switched conclusively to it by now. The fact that
we have so many ideas

 
Matt
Short story I run stock and after market gauges.
I installed a "T" fitting on a brass nipple the air coming off the fan broke the nipple.
Learning experience Do Not use brass nipples only steel nipples or hose
I now run s s covered rubber hose.
Now you know our store.
Howard

All is well with my Lord

>
>

>> Here is our story and we are sticking to it!
>> Coming down grade in to Grand Junction Co.
>> Susie was driving our 74 GMC
>> She noticed smoke pouring out the back.
>> Susie hung on and costed in to a truck stop.
>> I lifted the hatch oil ever where.
>> Not a drop in the engine.
>> I refilled the engine with ? oil and drive on to Henderson NV.
>> At our daughters home I changed out the ? oil back to Mobil 1
>> The engine is fine,the oil sample I sent in came back all +'s
>> We have only used Mobil 1 in this engine after it was rebuilt six years ago.
>> Mobil 1 is the only oil recommended by GM in the Corvette.
>>
>> Howard
>> Alpine Ca
>> 74 Canyon Lands
>>
>> All is well with my Lord
>
> Howard,
>
> ¿¿All you had to do was put oil back in??
>
> ¿¿The leak stopped all by itself??
>
> Come on man - Share.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
> Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
This is a bit off subject, but what the hell? My father bought our company cars and leased them back to the sales force at the company. Our orders were never to change the oil or filter...just keep a check on oil level. Turn them in at 100K miles.

To my knowledge we never had an engine failure or a problem due to oil problems. At the end of the time, a 100K car is a 100K car. Made no difference in the value.

This was back in the 70's with mega V-8 Fords, Chevrolets and Plymouths.

Meanwhile, back on the topic......
--
Stick Miller
'78 Royale - she left me for another man
'76 Eleganza
Americus, Georgia
 
I was told that shouldn't mix brands of oil. And not to
change brands, pick one and stay with it.

Mike
--
Mike & Chris Hughes
1977 Kingsley

Phoenix, Az.
 
David,

The thing to remember is that the MM was written in 1973 and the oil formulations back then were no where near as good as what is
available FORTY years later!

I run Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in Double Trouble.

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

-----Original Message-----
From: David Orders

Once again research only adds to the confusion. Manual says to use straight 30 wt and that 10W30-10W40 are "acceptable". Many on the
interwebz recommend Mobil 1 15W50. I have no problem with paying for full synthetic if the motor likes it.

So what do folks actually run? FWIW 1976 455 with 85K original miles, no smoke at all.
--
 
I'd guess my father bought one of those. He never did have good luck with cars...

Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine

>
>
> This is a bit off subject, but what the hell? My father bought our company cars and leased them back to the sales force at the company. Our orders were never to change the oil or filter...just keep a check on oil level. Turn them in at 100K miles.
>
> To my knowledge we never had an engine failure or a problem due to oil problems. At the end of the time, a 100K car is a 100K car. Made no difference in the value.
>
> This was back in the 70's with mega V-8 Fords, Chevrolets and Plymouths.
>
> Meanwhile, back on the topic......
> --
> Stick Miller
> '78 Royale - she left me for another man
> '76 Eleganza
> Americus, Georgia
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
> David,
>
> The thing to remember is that the MM was written in 1973 and the oil formulations back then were no where near as good as what is
> available FORTY years later!
>
> I run Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in Double Trouble.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> USAussie - Downunder
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

Times 2

Shell Rotella 15W40
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Philip;

Sorry but AFAIC with today's oil formulations STP = Snake Oil.

I do add 5 oz of ZDDP but as BobDk notes that to is not necessary in an engine that is well broken in; it makes me feel good! ;-)

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Phillip Udel

What ever oil, you should add some STP or other product with extra ZDDP/ZDTP
--
Phillip Udel - www.gmcfabrication.com I Own a 1975 Avion, Still removing the Mothballs after sitting in storage for 10+ years
 
> Philip;
>
> Sorry but AFAIC with today's oil formulations STP = Snake Oil.
>
> I do add 5 oz of ZDDP but as BobDk notes that to is not necessary in an engine that is well broken in; it makes me feel good! ;)
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phillip Udel
>
> What ever oil, you should add some STP or other product with extra ZDDP/ZDTP
> --
> Phillip Udel - www.gmcfabrication.com I Own a 1975 Avion, Still removing the Mothballs after sitting in storage for 10+ year
The current formulation of STP does not contain appreciable amounts of ZDDP. All it will do now is increase viscosity. If you find yourself having to put more than a quart of 5WXX oil in your GMC, then adding some STP is probably a good idea.
--
'73 23' Sequoia For Camping
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
UA (Upper Alabama)
"Time is money. If you use YOUR time, you get to keep YOUR money."
 
Why anyone would ever put 5w into their engine is beyond my imagination.

Unless, of course you are at below 0 temperatures and driving short distances.

I use 15w50 Mobil 1 for years (not 15w40 as someone attributed to me earlier) and have camped in freezing conditions and 120 in Phoenix. It has worked well.

Emery Stora

>
>

>> Philip;
>>
>> Sorry but AFAIC with today's oil formulations STP = Snake Oil.
>>
>> I do add 5 oz of ZDDP but as BobDk notes that to is not necessary in an engine that is well broken in; it makes me feel good! ;)
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rob M.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Phillip Udel
>>
>> What ever oil, you should add some STP or other product with extra ZDDP/ZDTP
>> --
>> Phillip Udel - www.gmcfabrication.com I Own a 1975 Avion, Still removing the Mothballs after sitting in storage for 10+ year
> The current formulation of STP does not contain appreciable amounts of ZDDP. All it will do now is increase viscosity. If you find yourself having to put more than a quart of 5WXX oil in your GMC, then adding some STP is probably a good idea.
> --
> '73 23' Sequoia For Camping
> '73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
> UA (Upper Alabama)
> "Time is money. If you use YOUR time, you get to keep YOUR money."
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
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