beltline trim/Bounds

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gworobec

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Dec 28, 2005
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Jim, if you are there,
The Jim Bounds solution to replacing the beltline trim with a nice piece of
2 1/2" wide x 3/16" polished aluminum makes lots of sense. Then apply a
piece of Jim's stick on rubber molding and it will look sharp. The question
I have is that on my '23 there are pop rivets that were under the existing
trim which stand proud maybe 1/16" inch. Does the aluminum strip simply go
over the pop rivets or does the strip get counterbored a bit so it actually
sits flat on the beltline. Jim, or if anyone has seen Jim do this please let
me know. I guess I could knock the heads off the rivets with a grinder but
that might let the skin come loose from the beltline extrusion. I'm not even
sure if the rivets were added after production as I know the early coaches
had some adhesion problems on the skins.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Thanks,

Gary Worobec
Anza, CA
1973 23' Glacier

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Gary,
I drilled them out when we pulled the OEM molding from my coach. The
aluminum strip is seald top and bottom so water intrusion should not
be a problem.

> Jim, if you are there,
> The Jim Bounds solution to replacing the beltline trim with a nice piece =
of
> 2 1/2" wide x 3/16" polished aluminum makes lots of sense. Then apply a
> piece of Jim's stick on rubber molding and it will look sharp. The questi=
on
> I have is that on my '23 there are pop rivets that were under the existin=
g
> trim which stand proud maybe 1/16" inch. Does the aluminum strip simply =
go
> over the pop rivets or does the strip get counterbored a bit so it actual=
ly
> sits flat on the beltline. Jim, or if anyone has seen Jim do this please =
let
> me know. I guess I could knock the heads off the rivets with a grinder bu=
t
> that might let the skin come loose from the beltline extrusion. I'm not e=
ven
> sure if the rivets were added after production as I know the early coache=
s
> had some adhesion problems on the skins.
>
> Thanks in advance for any info.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Worobec
> Anza, CA
> 1973 23' Glacier
>
>
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist=
net.org
>

--=20
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source

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Steve,
What did you use for fastenings?. I'm thinking 1/4-20 flat head stainless.?

Thanks,

Gary Worobec
Anza, CA
1973 23' Glacier

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Ferguson"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: [gmclist] beltline trim/Bounds

Gary,
I drilled them out when we pulled the OEM molding from my coach. The
aluminum strip is seald top and bottom so water intrusion should not
be a problem.

> Jim, if you are there,
> The Jim Bounds solution to replacing the beltline trim with a nice piece
> of
> 2 1/2" wide x 3/16" polished aluminum makes lots of sense. Then apply a
> piece of Jim's stick on rubber molding and it will look sharp. The
> question
> I have is that on my '23 there are pop rivets that were under the existing
> trim which stand proud maybe 1/16" inch. Does the aluminum strip simply
> go
> over the pop rivets or does the strip get counterbored a bit so it
> actually
> sits flat on the beltline. Jim, or if anyone has seen Jim do this please
> let
> me know. I guess I could knock the heads off the rivets with a grinder but
> that might let the skin come loose from the beltline extrusion. I'm not
> even
> sure if the rivets were added after production as I know the early coaches
> had some adhesion problems on the skins.
>
> Thanks in advance for any info.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Worobec
> Anza, CA
> 1973 23' Glacier
>
>
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to
> mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
>

--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source

---
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mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist

---
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I don't know what Jim does but on the 23 that I am doing I drilled out the
rivets and replaced them with flathead rivets that I filled and sanded
smooth before painting. I am not putting any aluminum strip over the seam,
I am only putting a paintable 2 inch molding over the seam and it will be
painted to match the coach.

Dan & Carol Winchester
1978 Updated Royal, 73 empty shell

Portland, Oregon=20

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Worobec [mailto:gtw5]=20
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 5:25 PM
To: d.l.winchester
Subject: [gmclist] beltline trim/Bounds

Jim, if you are there,
The Jim Bounds solution to replacing the beltline trim with a nice piece of=
=20
2 1/2" wide x 3/16" polished aluminum makes lots of sense. Then apply a=20
piece of Jim's stick on rubber molding and it will look sharp. The question=
=20
I have is that on my '23 there are pop rivets that were under the existing=
=20
trim which stand proud maybe 1/16" inch. Does the aluminum strip simply go=
=20
over the pop rivets or does the strip get counterbored a bit so it actually=
=20
sits flat on the beltline. Jim, or if anyone has seen Jim do this please le=
t

me know. I guess I could knock the heads off the rivets with a grinder but=
=20
that might let the skin come loose from the beltline extrusion. I'm not eve=
n

sure if the rivets were added after production as I know the early coaches=
=20
had some adhesion problems on the skins.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Thanks,

Gary Worobec
Anza, CA
1973 23' Glacier=20

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to
mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist=
t.org
 
Gary,
That or smaller.

> Steve,
> What did you use for fastenings?. I'm thinking 1/4-20 flat head stainless=
.?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Worobec
> Anza, CA
> 1973 23' Glacier
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steven Ferguson"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 5:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [gmclist] beltline trim/Bounds
>
>
> Gary,
> I drilled them out when we pulled the OEM molding from my coach. The
> aluminum strip is seald top and bottom so water intrusion should not
> be a problem.
>
>

> > Jim, if you are there,
> > The Jim Bounds solution to replacing the beltline trim with a nice piec=
e
> > of
> > 2 1/2" wide x 3/16" polished aluminum makes lots of sense. Then apply a
> > piece of Jim's stick on rubber molding and it will look sharp. The
> > question
> > I have is that on my '23 there are pop rivets that were under the exist=
ing
> > trim which stand proud maybe 1/16" inch. Does the aluminum strip simpl=
y
> > go
> > over the pop rivets or does the strip get counterbored a bit so it
> > actually
> > sits flat on the beltline. Jim, or if anyone has seen Jim do this pleas=
e
> > let
> > me know. I guess I could knock the heads off the rivets with a grinder =
but
> > that might let the skin come loose from the beltline extrusion. I'm not
> > even
> > sure if the rivets were added after production as I know the early coac=
hes
> > had some adhesion problems on the skins.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any info.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Gary Worobec
> > Anza, CA
> > 1973 23' Glacier
> >
> >
> > ---
> > To unsubscribe send a blank email to
> > mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
> >
>
>
> --
> Steve Ferguson
> '76 EII
> Sierra Vista, AZ
> Urethane bushing source
>
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to
> mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
>
>
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist=
net.org
>

--=20
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist=
t.org
 
> I drilled out the rivets and replaced them with flathead rivets that I filled and sanded smooth before painting. I am not putting any aluminum strip over the seam, I am only putting a paintable 2 inch molding over the seam and it will be painted to match the coach.
That sounds beautiful. Do you have specs on the paintable molding? Are you filling the body seam groove?

--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Enola PA

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Gary Worobec writes...

> Steve,
> What did you use for fastenings?. I'm thinking 1/4-20 flat head stainless.?

I used 10-32 flat-head stainless for mine, using well-nuts for
anchoring. I left the rivets, because that's what holds the body skin
to the body frame on the old coaches (they didn't trust the cement and
if they didn't, I won't). Because of that and the usual ripples here,
plus the seams where the body panels on my coach don't lay real flat,
I just bolted the aluminum onto the side leaving the gap. I used
butyle rubber (extruded from a tube) to seal the innards, and when it
cured a bit I trimmed off the excess and sealed the edged with
polyurethane. There are only one or two rivets that are just visible
above the sealant, but I have lots of rivets on my coach and I'm not
worrying about them.

Jim suggested that I grind down the heads of my bolts really flush to
avoid leaving bumps in the vinyl trim. I countersunk them but they
still stand just a bit proud of the surface.

I used 2" aluminum--2-1/2" wasn't available around here. But I've seen
Jim say that he also used 2".

Rick "who still had mystery leaks, however" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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Hey Rick and Steve,
Thanks for the info. It sounds like the right plan.

Thanks,

Gary Worobec
Anza, CA
1973 23' Glacier

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Denney"
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: [gmclist] beltline trim/Bounds

> Gary Worobec writes...
>
>> Steve,
>> What did you use for fastenings?. I'm thinking 1/4-20 flat head
>> stainless.?
>
> I used 10-32 flat-head stainless for mine, using well-nuts for
> anchoring. I left the rivets, because that's what holds the body skin
> to the body frame on the old coaches (they didn't trust the cement and
> if they didn't, I

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> I used 2" aluminum--2-1/2" wasn't available around here. But I've seen Jim say that he also used 2".
Did you use one piece for the entire driver side or is it sections? McMasters shows 6'-8' max. Did you go to a place like Ryerson Metals? This actually sounds pretty simple to start on. I have some stick on trim already.

--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Enola PA

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:o OK guys I am still looking for the trim from the door to the rear. for a 26' would like to keep it as orignal as can. also would like the rubber insert they seem to srink with years. maybe can piece together. Thanks Jack (The olddog)

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Jim's kit is three pieces, two end pieces cut out for the lights, with those
end pieces dual miterer cut at the end to close off the strip like a
contoured picture frame.

The 2" wide black strip underside has 1/2" wide, 1/32 high raised adhesive
bands that attach and seal the strip, top and bottom. The raised strips
float the center portion over the rivets. The material is soft enough
plastic that it can be rolled up for shipping and unrolled and straightened
out when attached. LIke all adhesive attachments, cleaning and preparing the
surface for the contact adhesive is critical to a permanent attachment. They
are shipped with removable adhesive cover strips so that the beltline trim
can be aligned and straightened before removing the cover strips. I used
wood trim strips from the hardware store as my straightness jig.

The outside, that you see after it is attached, has two 3/32" wide chrome
edges, top and bottom with a raised contoured radiuses center that is
textured to look like fine leather. The strip thickness protrudes out about
5/16" from the coach, resting on the raised adhesive strips. The color is
black with a semigloss finish appearing to be a waxed finish.

Chuck Botts, San Diego, Remodeled 23' with the coop motor.

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Hardie Johnson writes...

> Did you use one piece for the entire driver side or is it sections?
> McMasters shows 6'-8' max. Did you go to a place like Ryerson
> Metals? This actually sounds pretty simple to start on.

I did it in 8-foot sections, which were the longest pieces I could get
locally. On my 23' coach, that left a joint under the refer vent, and
another one just in front of the front body joint. I just put a screw
in the end of each bar and sealed the joint. I also used a miter saw
to make sure the joint was very square and tight.

On the passenger side, I'll probably need only one joint.

Rick "still with leaks, but not because of those joints" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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Jack Gladden writes...

> :o OK guys I am still looking for the trim from the door to the
> rear. for a 26' would like to keep it as orignal as can. also would
> like the rubber insert they seem to srink with years. maybe can
> piece together. Thanks Jack (The olddog)

I believe that Arch obtained the rubber trim insert from Gateway,
after rehabilitating his stainless trim. That trim was used on the
original coaches; later coaches use aluminum flat bar with a stick-on
trim. I don't recall if he rehabbed or replaced his cast end pieces.

Rick "assuming that the Old Dog also has an Old Coach" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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