Belt line leaks

[s-m-h]

Hello all,

I'm working my way through the multiple leaks on my coach. The drip rails are done (what a PITA), all roof vents, fans, clearance lights etc. The roof
is done. My coach interior is gutted so following/seeing leaks is much easier. There was always water pooling in the extrusion between the SMC and
aluminum at the belt line. I did want to jump to it being the belt line before the roof was done but now that it is, I wonder how a person goes about
sealing the belt line. The coach is a '77 so from what I understand, the aluminum strip between the two material is not removable/serviceable. Is it
as simple as running a bead of sealant across the top gap? It's on there pretty tight from what I can see with a few spots where there is maybe a
1/16" gap at the top. And not much of a lip to speak of so running a bead will be tough if that is the solution.

TIA

Shawn
--
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403

 

[Jim Hupy]

Jim Bounds sez, "The only absolute way to fix water leaks in a GMC, is to
drill larger holes in the floor of your coach so that the water can run out
of it faster than it runs in from the leaks", or something like that.
(GRIN)
Seriously, where the end caps meet the roof, plastic vs metal.
Different co-efficients of expansion. Those joints always will have that
characteristic. So, your solution will have to be using a sealed expansion
coupling joint, similar to the ones used on flat roofs, OR, a sealant that
absolutely binds to each surface and remains stretchy and flexible enough
to not shear with the incessant flexing, and long lasting and weather
resistant enough to justify cleaning and application of said sealant. A
tall order, to be sure. There are some good ones out there, and a lot of
bad ones also. Everyone has their favorites. Mine happens to be a 3M
product. Quite expensive. But effective.
On my coach, Some Blithering Idiot ran a ribbon of Dow Corning
aquarium sealer across the coach, troweled it flat, and spread Bondo or
Similar product over the top. Well, they failed on both. They did not have
the joint squeaky clean when they smeared on the aquarium sealant, so it
did not bond to either surface, and the Bondo they buttered on top promptly
cracked with the movement of the coach, allowing water to penetrate. Try
fixing that leak.
So, I fear that you are on a quest similar to jousting at windmills.
Find a dry place to store your coach when not in use.
That's all I got.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 7:20 AM Shawn Harris via Gmclist <

> Hello all,
>
> I'm working my way through the multiple leaks on my coach. The drip rails
> are done (what a PITA), all roof vents, fans, clearance lights etc. The roof
> is done. My coach interior is gutted so following/seeing leaks is much
> easier. There was always water pooling in the extrusion between the SMC and
> aluminum at the belt line. I did want to jump to it being the belt line
> before the roof was done but now that it is, I wonder how a person goes
> about
> sealing the belt line. The coach is a '77 so from what I understand, the
> aluminum strip between the two material is not removable/serviceable. Is it
> as simple as running a bead of sealant across the top gap? It's on there
> pretty tight from what I can see with a few spots where there is maybe a
> 1/16" gap at the top. And not much of a lip to speak of so running a bead
> will be tough if that is the solution.
>
> TIA
>
> Shawn
> --
> Shawn Harris
> North Vancouver,
> Canada
> 1977 Palm Beach 403
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[sgltrac]

Shawn,

An application of sealant along the top edge of the belt molding will help
reduce the amount of water coming in the belt line but Is only as effective
as the quality of the installation and materials used. I noted in both of
my 77s that most of the water entering the extrusions on the inside were
coming from higher up on the wall( windows, drip rail area) or from the
refer exterior door and water connection box.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 7:20 AM Shawn Harris via Gmclist <

> Hello all,
>
> I'm working my way through the multiple leaks on my coach. The drip rails
> are done (what a PITA), all roof vents, fans, clearance lights etc. The roof
> is done. My coach interior is gutted so following/seeing leaks is much
> easier. There was always water pooling in the extrusion between the SMC and
> aluminum at the belt line. I did want to jump to it being the belt line
> before the roof was done but now that it is, I wonder how a person goes
> about
> sealing the belt line. The coach is a '77 so from what I understand, the
> aluminum strip between the two material is not removable/serviceable. Is it
> as simple as running a bead of sealant across the top gap? It's on there
> pretty tight from what I can see with a few spots where there is maybe a
> 1/16" gap at the top. And not much of a lip to speak of so running a bead
> will be tough if that is the solution.
>
> TIA
>
> Shawn
> --
> Shawn Harris
> North Vancouver,
> Canada
> 1977 Palm Beach 403
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[dave stragand1]

I believe it is removable, as it's removed on my '78 Transmode, That
doesn't mean it was done correctly, though. There is just a caulked and
painted seam. It's cracking, so I'm interested in this answer as well.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
Shawn Harris via Gmclist
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:20 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Shawn Harris
Subject: [GMCnet] Belt line leaks

Hello all,

I'm working my way through the multiple leaks on my coach. The drip
rails are done (what a PITA), all roof vents, fans, clearance lights
etc. The roof
is done. My coach interior is gutted so following/seeing leaks is much
easier. There was always water pooling in the extrusion between the SMC
and
aluminum at the belt line. I did want to jump to it being the belt line
before the roof was done but now that it is, I wonder how a person goes
about
sealing the belt line. The coach is a '77 so from what I understand, the
aluminum strip between the two material is not removable/serviceable. Is
it
as simple as running a bead of sealant across the top gap? It's on there
pretty tight from what I can see with a few spots where there is maybe a
1/16" gap at the top. And not much of a lip to speak of so running a
bead will be tough if that is the solution.

TIA

Shawn
--
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403

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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

To kinda reinforce what Todd was saying, (he has a collision repair center,
in Seattle, so he knows water leaks, causes, and remedies.) The most likely
places that GMC leaks occur at, in no particular order, are:
1. End Cap to Roof.
2. Factory clearance lights.
3. Side drip rail moldings where the roof and sides join.
4. Stock windows, all parts of them.
5. Side rub moldings where the metal and plastic joins.
6. Windshields, front and rear.
7. Rear end hatch.
8. Entry door top. This is not a complete list, but it will get you
started.
Some sealants will work at several different locations, while some are
specific.
But, I guarantee that the stock clearance lights will leak. ALWAYS, until
they are replaced with 1 piece molded led replacements. But, that is a
whole different project.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 8:36 AM Dave Stragand via Gmclist <

> I believe it is removable, as it's removed on my '78 Transmode, That
> doesn't mean it was done correctly, though. There is just a caulked and
> painted seam. It's cracking, so I'm interested in this answer as well.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> Shawn Harris via Gmclist
> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:20 AM
> To: gmclist
> Cc: Shawn Harris
> Subject: [GMCnet] Belt line leaks
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm working my way through the multiple leaks on my coach. The drip
> rails are done (what a PITA), all roof vents, fans, clearance lights
> etc. The roof
> is done. My coach interior is gutted so following/seeing leaks is much
> easier. There was always water pooling in the extrusion between the SMC
> and
> aluminum at the belt line. I did want to jump to it being the belt line
> before the roof was done but now that it is, I wonder how a person goes
> about
> sealing the belt line. The coach is a '77 so from what I understand, the
> aluminum strip between the two material is not removable/serviceable. Is
> it
> as simple as running a bead of sealant across the top gap? It's on there
> pretty tight from what I can see with a few spots where there is maybe a
> 1/16" gap at the top. And not much of a lip to speak of so running a
> bead will be tough if that is the solution.
>
> TIA
>
> Shawn
> --
> Shawn Harris
> North Vancouver,
> Canada
> 1977 Palm Beach 403
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[sgltrac]

When I said belt molding I was referring to the non removable aluminum belt
molding which is actually the outer flat edge of the extrusion the upper
and lower aluminum/smc panels sit into. Not the plastic molding installed
over the top of it.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 9:48 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> To kinda reinforce what Todd was saying, (he has a collision repair center,
> in Seattle, so he knows water leaks, causes, and remedies.) The most likely
> places that GMC leaks occur at, in no particular order, are:
> 1. End Cap to Roof.
> 2. Factory clearance lights.
> 3. Side drip rail moldings where the roof and sides join.
> 4. Stock windows, all parts of them.
> 5. Side rub moldings where the metal and plastic joins.
> 6. Windshields, front and rear.
> 7. Rear end hatch.
> 8. Entry door top. This is not a complete list, but it will get you
> started.
> Some sealants will work at several different locations, while some are
> specific.
> But, I guarantee that the stock clearance lights will leak. ALWAYS, until
> they are replaced with 1 piece molded led replacements. But, that is a
> whole different project.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 8:36 AM Dave Stragand via Gmclist <

>
> > I believe it is removable, as it's removed on my '78 Transmode, That
> > doesn't mean it was done correctly, though. There is just a caulked and
> > painted seam. It's cracking, so I'm interested in this answer as well.
> >
> > -Dave
> > 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> > Shawn Harris via Gmclist
> > Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:20 AM
> > To: gmclist
> > Cc: Shawn Harris
> > Subject: [GMCnet] Belt line leaks
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I'm working my way through the multiple leaks on my coach. The drip
> > rails are done (what a PITA), all roof vents, fans, clearance lights
> > etc. The roof
> > is done. My coach interior is gutted so following/seeing leaks is much
> > easier. There was always water pooling in the extrusion between the SMC
> > and
> > aluminum at the belt line. I did want to jump to it being the belt line
> > before the roof was done but now that it is, I wonder how a person goes
> > about
> > sealing the belt line. The coach is a '77 so from what I understand, the
> > aluminum strip between the two material is not removable/serviceable. Is
> > it
> > as simple as running a bead of sealant across the top gap? It's on there
> > pretty tight from what I can see with a few spots where there is maybe a
> > 1/16" gap at the top. And not much of a lip to speak of so running a
> > bead will be tough if that is the solution.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Shawn
> > --
> > Shawn Harris
> > North Vancouver,
> > Canada
> > 1977 Palm Beach 403
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Richard RV]

Shawn,

As previously noted, the exposed flat aluminum at the belt line is the outer face of the H-shaped aluminum extrusion of the body framing. The
aluminum skin above the belt line fits into, and is retained by, an additional lip of the extrusion. Same goes for the bottom extruded lip the SMC
slides into.

It's a good idea to caulk the top lip of the extrusion at the aluminum body panel. You can clean out the narrow gap as best as you can with a razor
knife blade or an old plastic scoring blade that has the hook. I've also masked off the paint above the belt line and used an oscillating tool with a
flat scraper blade (no teeth), but that's probably not critical.

Mask off both sides of the caulk joint. You're looking for a very thin line of caulk - it should just fill the recess and not extend up onto the side
wall or overlap the top of the extrusion. Those "legs" of the caulk bead are what fails. What you're trying to do is to make a smooth and filled
transition from the side wall to the belt line extrusion so the water will flow over it.

I'm with others, though - if you're finding a lot of water in that belt line extrusion it's probably coming from above. Have you pressure tested and
bubbled the coach?

There's no need to caulk the bottom of the belt line extrusion.

Richard

--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach with 18,477 verified miles;
‘76 Edgemonte

 

[s-m-h]

Thank for all the input guys.

1. End Cap to Roof. Done.
2. Factory clearance lights. Done
3. Side drip rail moldings where the roof and sides join. Painstakingly done.
4. Stock windows, all parts of them. Done
5. Side rub moldings where the metal and plastic joins. Working on it.
6. Windshields, front and rear. Not done and it does leak but this is not the current issue. It's on the to-do list.
7. Rear end hatch. Also not done but again, not the issue. It's on the to-do list.
8. Entry door top. Working on it.

Have not pressure tested anything. Not even sure how to do that. If it requires pressuring the entire coach, that's not gonna happen as I have no
floors . Its currently a flintstone mobile...

I'll run a thin bead of caulk above the aluminum extrusion. See if that does the trick..

Advice is appreciated fellas.

Thank you kindly. Stay safe.

Shawn

--
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403

 

[Jim Hupy]

Pressure testing involves sealing up all openings like refer doors, furnace
grills, roof a/c's vent fans, with plastic garbage bags and duct tape.
Then, using a squirrel cage blower, or one of those advertising air
inflated critter fans, flex heating ducts, and a panel that can be duct
taped over a tool booth window opening. Go up on the roof, or place ladders
up against the coach with blankets or bath towels to protect the finish
from the ladders. Using kids bubble soap, or hand dish washing detergent
and water in a spray bottle, spray the roof, and all suspected leak areas,
turn on the fan, close the entrance door. Look for bubbles. You will soon
find way too many of them. Next time we do this at a rally, we will video
tape it and make it available on the net.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Fri, Apr 24, 2020, 10:02 AM Shawn Harris via Gmclist <

> Thank for all the input guys.
>
> 1. End Cap to Roof. Done.
> 2. Factory clearance lights. Done
> 3. Side drip rail moldings where the roof and sides join. Painstakingly
> done.
> 4. Stock windows, all parts of them. Done
> 5. Side rub moldings where the metal and plastic joins. Working on it.
> 6. Windshields, front and rear. Not done and it does leak but this is not
> the current issue. It's on the to-do list.
> 7. Rear end hatch. Also not done but again, not the issue. It's on the
> to-do list.
> 8. Entry door top. Working on it.
>
> Have not pressure tested anything. Not even sure how to do that. If it
> requires pressuring the entire coach, that's not gonna happen as I have no
> floors . Its currently a flintstone mobile...
>
> I'll run a thin bead of caulk above the aluminum extrusion. See if that
> does the trick..
>
> Advice is appreciated fellas.
>
> Thank you kindly. Stay safe.
>
> Shawn
>
>
> --
> Shawn Harris
> North Vancouver,
> Canada
> 1977 Palm Beach 403
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[sgltrac]

The best way to manage leaks in a GMC

My opinion.
1 Remove all of the carpet and throw it away.
2. Clean and seal the floor with a water based wood sealant.

3. Have a new carpet cut in two pieces with the foam pad glued to the back
of the carpet. Have the carpet made in two pieces with the seam
perpendicular to the length of the coach in the narrowest carpet section as
close to the middle of the length as feasible (hallway) and have the carpet
edge bound. Now you can remove the carpet (because it stops prior to the
cabinets and furniture) and it is in two manageable pieces. With this set
up I could easily remove the carpet and store in doors so WHEN (not if) the
water came in it did not cause damage.

4. Store the coach under cover any time you are not using it.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Fri, Apr 24, 2020 at 10:41 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> Pressure testing involves sealing up all openings like refer doors, furnace
> grills, roof a/c's vent fans, with plastic garbage bags and duct tape.
> Then, using a squirrel cage blower, or one of those advertising air
> inflated critter fans, flex heating ducts, and a panel that can be duct
> taped over a tool booth window opening. Go up on the roof, or place ladders
> up against the coach with blankets or bath towels to protect the finish
> from the ladders. Using kids bubble soap, or hand dish washing detergent
> and water in a spray bottle, spray the roof, and all suspected leak areas,
> turn on the fan, close the entrance door. Look for bubbles. You will soon
> find way too many of them. Next time we do this at a rally, we will video
> tape it and make it available on the net.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Fri, Apr 24, 2020, 10:02 AM Shawn Harris via Gmclist <

>
> > Thank for all the input guys.
> >
> > 1. End Cap to Roof. Done.
> > 2. Factory clearance lights. Done
> > 3. Side drip rail moldings where the roof and sides join. Painstakingly
> > done.
> > 4. Stock windows, all parts of them. Done
> > 5. Side rub moldings where the metal and plastic joins. Working on it.
> > 6. Windshields, front and rear. Not done and it does leak but this is not
> > the current issue. It's on the to-do list.
> > 7. Rear end hatch. Also not done but again, not the issue. It's on the
> > to-do list.
> > 8. Entry door top. Working on it.
> >
> > Have not pressure tested anything. Not even sure how to do that. If it
> > requires pressuring the entire coach, that's not gonna happen as I have
> no
> > floors . Its currently a flintstone mobile...
> >
> > I'll run a thin bead of caulk above the aluminum extrusion. See if that
> > does the trick..
> >
> > Advice is appreciated fellas.
> >
> > Thank you kindly. Stay safe.
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> >
> > --
> > Shawn Harris
> > North Vancouver,
> > Canada
> > 1977 Palm Beach 403
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Greg C.]

So the general consensus is that no matter what you do, a GMC coach is going to leak somewhere, sometime, forever?
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

 

[sgltrac]

I’ve had two 77’s. Yes.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Fri, Apr 24, 2020 at 4:39 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

> So the general consensus is that no matter what you do, a GMC coach is
> going to leak somewhere, sometime, forever?
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[s-m-h]

That's the general idea as I understand it. But one can try and mitigate the flood. It's not going to stop me from trying...
--
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403

 

[Jim Hupy]

I guess you kinda have to pick your battles. With your coach gutted, you
have a great opportunity to find em and fix em. Then pick water resistant
materials to do your interior. Avoid leaving your coach out in the weather
as much as possible. I have a metal carport for mine, and I leave heat on
in the coach constantly, year around.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Fri, Apr 24, 2020, 5:24 PM Shawn Harris via Gmclist <

> That's the general idea as I understand it. But one can try and mitigate
> the flood. It's not going to stop me from trying...
> --
> Shawn Harris
> North Vancouver,
> Canada
> 1977 Palm Beach 403
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Ken H.]

True. And during my 65 years of RV experience, the GMC has been the most
leak-resistant of the lot.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Fri, Apr 24, 2020 at 7:39 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

> So the general consensus is that no matter what you do, a GMC coach is
> going to leak somewhere, sometime, forever?
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[s-m-h]

Just a quick update. I pulled the belt line molding off, got in the the crack on the extrusion with a brush and a pick ) which I later switched out
for an exacto knife) and dug out as much crud as I could. Most spots were tight to the body so not much to get out. The spots where it had separated a
bit I was able to get out a bit more. I then used a nylon brush and some alcohol and scrubbed in the crack as best as I could while wiping it down
with a rag. It was as clean as I could get it. I taped it off leaving a spot for about a 1/16" bead of sealant. I used RTV. Ran my finger along the
bead to push into the crack as best as i could and removed the tape. Job done.

I woke up to a heavy rain this morning and excited to see the fruits of my labour, I poured a coffee and headed out with a flashlight. Now. The big
question. Did it work??? Drum roll please!!!!...

NO! Well sort of...

It did limit the amount of water getting in and targeted the culprit(s). My coach is on a sloped driveway, nose down, so the gutters have all the
water coming out the front end. That stream is permeating at the body seem behind the fender and beside but below the window on both sides. Right at
the belt line. It's not coming from any higher. It's right at that joint.I had previously sealed those seam lines and cut out about a 1/4" to
accommodate the new sealant. I suspect there is a gap between the 2 sealants where water is still getting in. I now know what I have to do. Just have
to wait for the rain to stop here in Vancouver which can take some time.

Anyway, I guess I'm back inside the coach until the rain stops. Much to do in there as well.

Shawn

--
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403

 

[charles boyd]

Sir, I believe that belt line piece is 2 pieces. It is a body line junction for the aluminum and the SMC till it gets to the front cap which is all
SMC. There is an added piece of aluminum that extends the 2” wide joint and is removable by drilling out the rivets. Your leak is probably at the
joint.

> Just a quick update. I pulled the belt line molding off, got in the the crack on the extrusion with a brush and a pick ) which I later switched
> out for an exacto knife) and dug out as much crud as I could. Most spots were tight to the body so not much to get out. The spots where it had
> separated a bit I was able to get out a bit more. I then used a nylon brush and some alcohol and scrubbed in the crack as best as I could while
> wiping it down with a rag. It was as clean as I could get it. I taped it off leaving a spot for about a 1/16" bead of sealant. I used RTV. Ran my
> finger along the bead to push into the crack as best as i could and removed the tape. Job done.
>
> I woke up to a heavy rain this morning and excited to see the fruits of my labour, I poured a coffee and headed out with a flashlight. Now. The
> big question. Did it work??? Drum roll please!!!!...
>
> NO! Well sort of...
>
> It did limit the amount of water getting in and targeted the culprit(s). My coach is on a sloped driveway, nose down, so the gutters have all the
> water coming out the front end. That stream is permeating at the body seem behind the fender and beside but below the window on both sides. Right at
> the belt line. It's not coming from any higher. It's right at that joint.I had previously sealed those seam lines and cut out about a 1/4" to
> accommodate the new sealant. I suspect there is a gap between the 2 sealants where water is still getting in. I now know what I have to do. Just
> have to wait for the rain to stop here in Vancouver which can take some time.
>
> Anyway, I guess I'm back inside the coach until the rain stops. Much to do in there as well.
>
> Shawn

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee

 

[Jim Hupy]

Just one more thing that I thought of:
The moulding that joins the ROOF AND SIDES TOGETHER has removable end
seals? on the fore and aft ends of the mouldings. They have a custom made
rubber or neoprene piece inside that is supposed to seal the ends of the
extrusion. They are 40 + years old, not bad for humans, but way, way, old
for rubber parts. My coach leaked there on all 4 corners, but the drip rail
moulding did not leak along the entire length of the coach. Under those
drip rails, the factory used a black, NASTY, non hardening, gooey
substance that really works well. But, the end pieces are the weak link in
the chain. I removed the end covers and resealed them in a bed of 3M 5300
non-hardening flexible sealant, black in color. It is almost as nasty to
work with as what the factory used under the drip rails. But, it did the
trick for me.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 7:53 AM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <

> Sir, I believe that belt line piece is 2 pieces. It is a body line
> junction for the aluminum and the SMC till it gets to the front cap which
> is all
> SMC. There is an added piece of aluminum that extends the 2” wide joint
> and is removable by drilling out the rivets. Your leak is probably at the
> joint.
>
>
>
>

> > Just a quick update. I pulled the belt line molding off, got in the the
> crack on the extrusion with a brush and a pick ) which I later switched
> > out for an exacto knife) and dug out as much crud as I could. Most spots
> were tight to the body so not much to get out. The spots where it had
> > separated a bit I was able to get out a bit more. I then used a nylon
> brush and some alcohol and scrubbed in the crack as best as I could while
> > wiping it down with a rag. It was as clean as I could get it. I taped it
> off leaving a spot for about a 1/16" bead of sealant. I used RTV. Ran my
> > finger along the bead to push into the crack as best as i could and
> removed the tape. Job done.
> >
> > I woke up to a heavy rain this morning and excited to see the fruits of
> my labour, I poured a coffee and headed out with a flashlight. Now. The
> > big question. Did it work??? Drum roll please!!!!...
> >
> > NO! Well sort of...
> >
> > It did limit the amount of water getting in and targeted the culprit(s).
> My coach is on a sloped driveway, nose down, so the gutters have all the
> > water coming out the front end. That stream is permeating at the body
> seem behind the fender and beside but below the window on both sides. Right
> at
> > the belt line. It's not coming from any higher. It's right at that
> joint.I had previously sealed those seam lines and cut out about a 1/4" to
> > accommodate the new sealant. I suspect there is a gap between the 2
> sealants where water is still getting in. I now know what I have to do. Just
> > have to wait for the rain to stop here in Vancouver which can take some
> time.
> >
> > Anyway, I guess I'm back inside the coach until the rain stops. Much to
> do in there as well.
> >
> > Shawn
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Stu Rasmussen]

Jim, I'm not finding 3M 5300 sealant - can you check that is the correct
number? Several other 5300 numbered items but no sealant.

I'd like to get some based on your experience / recommendation instead
of making my own mistakes.

Thanks!

Stu

> Just one more thing that I thought of:
> The moulding that joins the ROOF AND SIDES TOGETHER has removable end
> seals? on the fore and aft ends of the mouldings. They have a custom made
> rubber or neoprene piece inside that is supposed to seal the ends of the
> extrusion. They are 40 + years old, not bad for humans, but way, way, old
> for rubber parts. My coach leaked there on all 4 corners, but the drip rail
> moulding did not leak along the entire length of the coach. Under those
> drip rails, the factory used a black, NASTY, non hardening, gooey
> substance that really works well. But, the end pieces are the weak link in
> the chain. I removed the end covers and resealed them in a bed of 3M 5300
> non-hardening flexible sealant, black in color. It is almost as nasty to
> work with as what the factory used under the drip rails. But, it did the
> trick for me.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 7:53 AM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <

>
>> Sir, I believe that belt line piece is 2 pieces. It is a body line
>> junction for the aluminum and the SMC till it gets to the front cap which
>> is all
>> SMC. There is an added piece of aluminum that extends the 2” wide joint
>> and is removable by drilling out the rivets. Your leak is probably at the
>> joint.
>>
>>
>>
>>

>>> Just a quick update. I pulled the belt line molding off, got in the the
>> crack on the extrusion with a brush and a pick ) which I later switched
>>> out for an exacto knife) and dug out as much crud as I could. Most spots
>> were tight to the body so not much to get out. The spots where it had
>>> separated a bit I was able to get out a bit more. I then used a nylon
>> brush and some alcohol and scrubbed in the crack as best as I could while
>>> wiping it down with a rag. It was as clean as I could get it. I taped it
>> off leaving a spot for about a 1/16" bead of sealant. I used RTV. Ran my
>>> finger along the bead to push into the crack as best as i could and
>> removed the tape. Job done.
>>> I woke up to a heavy rain this morning and excited to see the fruits of
>> my labour, I poured a coffee and headed out with a flashlight. Now. The
>>> big question. Did it work??? Drum roll please!!!!...
>>>
>>> NO! Well sort of...
>>>
>>> It did limit the amount of water getting in and targeted the culprit(s).
>> My coach is on a sloped driveway, nose down, so the gutters have all the
>>> water coming out the front end. That stream is permeating at the body
>> seem behind the fender and beside but below the window on both sides. Right
>> at
>>> the belt line. It's not coming from any higher. It's right at that
>> joint.I had previously sealed those seam lines and cut out about a 1/4" to
>>> accommodate the new sealant. I suspect there is a gap between the 2
>> sealants where water is still getting in. I now know what I have to do. Just
>>> have to wait for the rain to stop here in Vancouver which can take some
>> time.
>>> Anyway, I guess I'm back inside the coach until the rain stops. Much to
>> do in there as well.
>>> Shawn
>>
>> --
>> C. Boyd
>> 76 Crestmont
>> East Tennessee
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

I have some down in the shop. I am in the house right now. When I go down
there in a bit, I will get the EXACT part numbers and product codes for you.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 9:22 AM Stu Rasmussen via Gmclist <

> Jim, I'm not finding 3M 5300 sealant - can you check that is the correct
> number? Several other 5300 numbered items but no sealant.
>
> I'd like to get some based on your experience / recommendation instead
> of making my own mistakes.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Stu
>

> > Just one more thing that I thought of:
> > The moulding that joins the ROOF AND SIDES TOGETHER has removable end
> > seals? on the fore and aft ends of the mouldings. They have a custom made
> > rubber or neoprene piece inside that is supposed to seal the ends of the
> > extrusion. They are 40 + years old, not bad for humans, but way, way, old
> > for rubber parts. My coach leaked there on all 4 corners, but the drip
> rail
> > moulding did not leak along the entire length of the coach. Under those
> > drip rails, the factory used a black, NASTY, non hardening, gooey
> > substance that really works well. But, the end pieces are the weak link
> in
> > the chain. I removed the end covers and resealed them in a bed of 3M 5300
> > non-hardening flexible sealant, black in color. It is almost as nasty to
> > work with as what the factory used under the drip rails. But, it did the
> > trick for me.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Oregon
> >
> > On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 7:53 AM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <

> >
> >> Sir, I believe that belt line piece is 2 pieces. It is a body line
> >> junction for the aluminum and the SMC till it gets to the front cap
> which
> >> is all
> >> SMC. There is an added piece of aluminum that extends the 2” wide joint
> >> and is removable by drilling out the rivets. Your leak is probably at
> the
> >> joint.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>

> >>> Just a quick update. I pulled the belt line molding off, got in the the
> >> crack on the extrusion with a brush and a pick ) which I later switched
> >>> out for an exacto knife) and dug out as much crud as I could. Most
> spots
> >> were tight to the body so not much to get out. The spots where it had
> >>> separated a bit I was able to get out a bit more. I then used a nylon
> >> brush and some alcohol and scrubbed in the crack as best as I could
> while
> >>> wiping it down with a rag. It was as clean as I could get it. I taped
> it
> >> off leaving a spot for about a 1/16" bead of sealant. I used RTV. Ran my
> >>> finger along the bead to push into the crack as best as i could and
> >> removed the tape. Job done.
> >>> I woke up to a heavy rain this morning and excited to see the fruits of
> >> my labour, I poured a coffee and headed out with a flashlight. Now. The
> >>> big question. Did it work??? Drum roll please!!!!...
> >>>
> >>> NO! Well sort of...
> >>>
> >>> It did limit the amount of water getting in and targeted the
> culprit(s).
> >> My coach is on a sloped driveway, nose down, so the gutters have all the
> >>> water coming out the front end. That stream is permeating at the body
> >> seem behind the fender and beside but below the window on both sides.
> Right
> >> at
> >>> the belt line. It's not coming from any higher. It's right at that
> >> joint.I had previously sealed those seam lines and cut out about a 1/4"
> to
> >>> accommodate the new sealant. I suspect there is a gap between the 2
> >> sealants where water is still getting in. I now know what I have to do.
> Just
> >>> have to wait for the rain to stop here in Vancouver which can take some
> >> time.
> >>> Anyway, I guess I'm back inside the coach until the rain stops. Much to
> >> do in there as well.
> >>> Shawn
> >>
> >> --
> >> C. Boyd
> >> 76 Crestmont
> >> East Tennessee
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>