Nice to see that everyone is kissing and making up over the bearing
contoversey. Just goes to show you how strong emotions some times play a
part in our selection of methods and components for engine rebuilding. With
respect to some of the previous posts and this one in particular I would
like to make an objective comment relative to what I am going to do(OK Arch
i am going to start using this disclaimer) and what I think you should not
do. Most of what I detail here can be gleaned from Joe Mondellos Short Block
Assembly part 4 and 5. There the best articles I have seen when it comes to
telling the tricks to use for a long lasting engine.
When it comes to bearings in my opinion the best on the market are Childs &
Albert trimetal bearings (with INdium). For those that do not know what
indium coating is, its the toughest and longest wearing bearing surface one
can buy. Mercedes Benz uses them. If you are going to rebuild your engine
with good bearings make sure that your crank is cross drilled and chamfered.
With respect to preparing the engine block and crankshaft for rebuilding I
have to disagree strongly with the method described here.
Putting the block or crank in the jet washer is a no no. Why? You are just
asking to pick up contaminants that can find their way into remote engine
and crank cavities. Everything should have been thoroughly cleaned BEFORE
all machine work was accomplished and than should be thorougly cleaned using
BRUSHES and solvent only, before starting final assembly. Make sure that
all the cavities and crank holes are brushed (buy a whole brush kit
specifically for this) thoroughly and than flushed with clean solvent. Than
wash everything again with the hottest water you have and simple green, than
rinse with clear water and BLOW DRY the parts. NEVER use rags or paper
towels of any kind on any engine part to be rebuilt unless you want to risk
engine failure.
Lots of other facts are in Mondellos articles to many in fact to detail
here, but one worth noting. How many know how to properly clean your
bearings before installing them in the block? They should be deburred with
a deburring knife, sand all surfaces with 600 grit wet/dry, than very fine
scotch-brite with solvent, than clean with clean solvent and blow dry.
Anyone know how to properly center the thrust bearing in the block?
>I've been biting my tongue since reading this until I could check some
>books and sites to confirm my recollections. I'l agree with Brent about
>the
>desireability of Moraine aluminum bearings, but they're not an unmixed
>blessing, as we shall see.
>Rick,
> You pretty well summed up my personal sentiments about tri-metal
>bearings. They're the only type I've ever used and your assembly
>practices are bible to me. I do go a step further though....when all
>the machine work is done my castings go back into the jet washer and are
>then finished off by a hand-held pressure washer. I also use lint-free
>rags and WD-40 to clean the imbedded honing particles from the cylinder
>walls. (Try this sometime when you have what you think is a spotless
>block, man, that stuff just keeps on coming out of the pores of the
>cylinder walls.) I've also switched to a lube made by Childs & Albert
>for pre-lubing the piston/ring assys prior to install, the stuff seems
>to stay on the rings forever.
>BTW, I think it's Michigan 77 now. Everybody's buying up everybody out
>there in parts land.
>Steve Ferguson
>San Diego
>
>
contoversey. Just goes to show you how strong emotions some times play a
part in our selection of methods and components for engine rebuilding. With
respect to some of the previous posts and this one in particular I would
like to make an objective comment relative to what I am going to do(OK Arch
i am going to start using this disclaimer) and what I think you should not
do. Most of what I detail here can be gleaned from Joe Mondellos Short Block
Assembly part 4 and 5. There the best articles I have seen when it comes to
telling the tricks to use for a long lasting engine.
When it comes to bearings in my opinion the best on the market are Childs &
Albert trimetal bearings (with INdium). For those that do not know what
indium coating is, its the toughest and longest wearing bearing surface one
can buy. Mercedes Benz uses them. If you are going to rebuild your engine
with good bearings make sure that your crank is cross drilled and chamfered.
With respect to preparing the engine block and crankshaft for rebuilding I
have to disagree strongly with the method described here.
Putting the block or crank in the jet washer is a no no. Why? You are just
asking to pick up contaminants that can find their way into remote engine
and crank cavities. Everything should have been thoroughly cleaned BEFORE
all machine work was accomplished and than should be thorougly cleaned using
BRUSHES and solvent only, before starting final assembly. Make sure that
all the cavities and crank holes are brushed (buy a whole brush kit
specifically for this) thoroughly and than flushed with clean solvent. Than
wash everything again with the hottest water you have and simple green, than
rinse with clear water and BLOW DRY the parts. NEVER use rags or paper
towels of any kind on any engine part to be rebuilt unless you want to risk
engine failure.
Lots of other facts are in Mondellos articles to many in fact to detail
here, but one worth noting. How many know how to properly clean your
bearings before installing them in the block? They should be deburred with
a deburring knife, sand all surfaces with 600 grit wet/dry, than very fine
scotch-brite with solvent, than clean with clean solvent and blow dry.
Anyone know how to properly center the thrust bearing in the block?
>I've been biting my tongue since reading this until I could check some
>books and sites to confirm my recollections. I'l agree with Brent about
>the
>desireability of Moraine aluminum bearings, but they're not an unmixed
>blessing, as we shall see.
>Rick,
> You pretty well summed up my personal sentiments about tri-metal
>bearings. They're the only type I've ever used and your assembly
>practices are bible to me. I do go a step further though....when all
>the machine work is done my castings go back into the jet washer and are
>then finished off by a hand-held pressure washer. I also use lint-free
>rags and WD-40 to clean the imbedded honing particles from the cylinder
>walls. (Try this sometime when you have what you think is a spotless
>block, man, that stuff just keeps on coming out of the pores of the
>cylinder walls.) I've also switched to a lube made by Childs & Albert
>for pre-lubing the piston/ring assys prior to install, the stuff seems
>to stay on the rings forever.
>BTW, I think it's Michigan 77 now. Everybody's buying up everybody out
>there in parts land.
>Steve Ferguson
>San Diego
>
>
