bearing puller

T

thomas g. warner

New member
Mar 24, 1998
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larry, Cinnabar Engineering (1-800-720-2227) wrote an excellent article
(believe it was actually written by Wes Caughlan), on servicing the front
rotors, knuckles, hubs, bearings etc and had good pictures as well. They
even showed how to measure the tolerances of all parts, part numbers of
everything you need etc. I can not remember the exact issue, they are in my
coach bout 2 miles away. If you read it you will have no problem servicing
your coach it is that detailed. If no one else knows the article month and
year than I will get it from the coach tomorrow and post it. In addition the
coach manual is quite comprehensive.

A word of caution. There is a lot of differences of opinions relative to
the correct wheel bearings to use. Who knows who is right, but for now I
would rely on the GM engineers who say that you need at least .095" of
radial clearance in the bearings AFTER THEY ARE INSTALLED. These bearings
are manufactured by Timken and have a special part number. I bought mine
from Gateway( 1-800-654-0374)for $77.00 each which includes the inner and
outer grease seals. These bearings also are certified for 20% higher load
carrying capacity.

>Tom, I would be interested in a bearing puller, and have seen references to
>several solutions to this in the Archives. You indicated that the cost would
>be about $200. If I intend to stick with this endeavor for the long haul and
>that long haul might include 4 of 5 or more bearing inspections, I really
>would like to tackle this myself. At the present time, with no manuals, (they
>are ordered), I cannot comprehend the degree of complexity involved with this
>procedure. I have rebuilt many hubs and serviced many bearings, but no front
>wheel drives. It may scare me to death. I expect my shop manual this next
>week, and would like to look at this operation before I commit to a puller,
>rather than having a machine shop pull the bearing locally, as another GMC'er
>suggested. I will stay in touch! Larry / Palm Beach 75
>
>
 
Servicing the front end is not difficult for anyone that takes their time
and reads the manual. It is quite detailed. Add the cinnabar article that
I referenced and you can do it perfectly.

In my opinion it is not a good idea to cut bearings and races off spindles,
or use a torch on them. You are working in a very confined area, between the
disk rotor and the hub and one slip and you can get into deeper trouble than
you need. Who needs a notch cut in their spindle or rotor???? Bearing and
race material is HARD! If you have the money to buy a cutting torch and high
speed grinder you have money to buy a good bearing puller.

And another thing these bearings ARE in fact much different than most
others. They are actually 2 bearings separated by a carefully dimensioned
spacer so that the correct axial clearance can be maintained under load. The
parts cannot be interchanged with other bearing sets uless you know exactly
how to match them.

What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings anyway.
Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every 25Kmiles not
replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good bearings that have 25K,
50K or more miles on them are proven and work. If they are cleaned and
inspected, and have no visible wear they are more reliable than a new
bearing. They should only be replaced if signs of wear are apparent. These
bearings can easily go 100K miles before replacement, and maybe more.

There is no substitute for doing it the right way. A good puller to remove
and reinstall the bearings is a necessity for doing the job right. Every
manual on bearings that I have ever read tells me to never blow off the
bearings with compressed air and spin the bearing because it will put
microscopic tracks in the bearings and races. Installing the bearing by
using a large socket and hammer likely does the same thing. If you don't
believe it listen to all of the horror stories of GMCers that took their
coaches to a local shop where the mechanic tried various methods, including
cutting and torching to remove the bearings only to result in disaster.

I have learned from long experience that it is foolhardy to try and cut
corners. Buy or borrow the right tools, get the right technical manuals,
have someone show you the right way to accomplish the job if they are
available, and you will not constantly be wondering when the thing will fail
or fall apart. it is called peace of mind.

The one technical seminar that I went to in Kingston Ontario at our last GMC
Heritage Cruiser rally was worth a million books. The guys who have done it
many times before, the right way, taught the rest of us how to do it hands
on. Most of them saved there old bearings and used them again. I cannot
stress enough that the smartest thing we can do is join a good GMC club and
instantly have available all of the technical help that you need. There is
no substitute for experience.

Just my 2 cents.

>In a message dated 98-06-28 20:19:49 EDT, you write:
>
> Tom, I would be interested in a bearing puller, and have seen references to
> several solutions to this in the Archives. You indicated that the cost would
> be about $200. If I intend to stick with this endeavor for the long haul and
> that long haul might include 4 of 5 or more bearing inspections, I really
> would like to tackle this myself. At the present time, with no manuals, (they
> are ordered), I cannot comprehend the degree of complexity involved with this
> procedure. I have rebuilt many hubs and serviced many bearings, but no front
> wheel drives. It may scare me to death. I expect my shop manual this next
> week, and would like to look at this operation before I commit to a puller,
> rather than having a machine shop pull the bearing locally, as another GMC'er
> suggested. I will stay in touch! Larry / Palm Beach 75
>
> >>
>OK I going to go off the deep end. These bearing are not that different
>from any others. If you are not going to reuse them just get them off!
>Take a grinding tool and cut through the race. Or do what I did take
>a cutting torch and cut them off. Why is this a problem? If I am going
>to remove them why do I want to save them. Get new bearings and get
>on with it. I am sorry but the Myth around here is getting to me. I promise
>not to get this heated for awhile. Well maybe for a little while.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>
 
> >
> > What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
> > anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
> > 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
> > bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and
> > work. If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear
> > they are more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be
> > replaced if signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go
> > 100K miles before replacement, and maybe more.

Thomas,

When we got our GMC we were told by Cinnabar to replace, the
front wheel bearings. Wes told us that the front wheel bearings was
a very weak area on the GMC and we should plan to replace them
somewhere around every 30,000 miles. He told us that repacking was a
kind of false economy. (our 2 cents worth)

We put it off and put it off, and of course then we were forced to
have it done.
Les & Des
Living Praise Ministries

mailto:lesndes
Visit us at: http://www.livingpraise.org
 
>
> What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
> anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
> 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
> bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and
> work. If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear
> they are more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be
> replaced if signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go
> 100K miles before replacement, and maybe more.

In my case, I'm replacing them because I'm not *certain* of their
lineage. My coach didn't come with maintenance records and I've decided
to start afresh with critical components. Otherwise I agree with you on
bearing life.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Is anyone aware of the front wheel bearing puller kit (I don't recall
how many pieces it consists of) and included video of the process, that
GMCer Ken Thoma of Fredericksburg TX (210-997-3690) has available for
both pulling and pressing on the bearings?

Don't know that I would advocate reinventing the "wheel'!

Paul Bartz

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas G. Warner [SMTP:warner]
> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:22 AM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: bearing puller
>
> Servicing the front end is not difficult for anyone that takes their
> time and reads the manual. It is quite detailed. Add the cinnabar
> article that I referenced and you can do it perfectly.
>
> In my opinion it is not a good idea to cut bearings and races off
> spindles, or use a torch on them. You are working in a very confined
> area, between the disk rotor and the hub and one slip and you can get
> into deeper trouble than you need. Who needs a notch cut in their
> spindle or rotor???? Bearing and race material is HARD! If you have
> the money to buy a cutting torch and high speed grinder you have money
> to buy a good bearing puller.
>
> And another thing these bearings ARE in fact much different than most
> others. They are actually 2 bearings separated by a carefully
> dimensioned spacer so that the correct axial clearance can be
> maintained under load. The parts cannot be interchanged with other
> bearing sets uless you know exactly how to match them.
>
> What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
> anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
> 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
> bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and work.
> If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear they are
> more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be replaced if
> signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go 100K miles
> before replacement, and maybe more.
>
> There is no substitute for doing it the right way. A good puller to
> remove and reinstall the bearings is a necessity for doing the job
> right. Every manual on bearings that I have ever read tells me to
> never blow off the bearings with compressed air and spin the bearing
> because it will put microscopic tracks in the bearings and races.
> Installing the bearing by using a large socket and hammer likely does
> the same thing. If you don't believe it listen to all of the horror
> stories of GMCers that took their coaches to a local shop where the
> mechanic tried various methods, including cutting and torching to
> remove the bearings only to result in disaster.
>
> I have learned from long experience that it is foolhardy to try and
> cut corners. Buy or borrow the right tools, get the right technical
> manuals, have someone show you the right way to accomplish the job if
> they are available, and you will not constantly be wondering when the
> thing will fail or fall apart. it is called peace of mind.
>
> The one technical seminar that I went to in Kingston Ontario at our
> last GMC Heritage Cruiser rally was worth a million books. The guys
> who have done it many times before, the right way, taught the rest of
> us how to do it hands on. Most of them saved there old bearings and
> used them again. I cannot stress enough that the smartest thing we
> can do is join a good GMC club and instantly have available all of the
> technical help that you need. There is no substitute for experience.
>
> Just my 2 cents.
>
>

>
> In a message dated 98-06-28 20:19:49 EDT, you write:
>
> Tom, I would be interested in a bearing puller, and have seen
> references to several solutions to this in the Archives. You
> indicated that the cost would be about $200. If I intend to stick
> with this endeavor for the long haul and that long haul might include
> 4 of 5 or more bearing inspections, I really would like to tackle this
> myself.
>
> At the present time, with no manuals, (they are ordered), I cannot
> comprehend the degree of complexity involved with this procedure. I
> have rebuilt many hubs and serviced many bearings, but no front wheel
> drives. It may scare me to death. I expect my shop manual this next
> week, and would like to look at this operation before I commit to a
> puller, rather than having a machine shop pull the bearing locally, as
> another GMC'er suggested.
>
> I will stay in touch!
>
> Larry / Palm Beach 75
>
>
> OK I going to go off the deep end. These bearing are not that
> different from any others. If you are not going to reuse them just
> get them off! Take a grinding tool and cut through the race. Or do
> what I did take a cutting torch and cut them off.
>
> Why is this a problem? If I am going to remove them why do I want to
> save them. Get new bearings and get on with it.
>
> I am sorry but the Myth around here is getting to me. I promise not
> to get this heated for awhile. Well maybe for a little while.
>
> Arch
 
I do not want to reinvent the wheel if I can buy a puller for a reasonable
price. The set should sell for $200 or less.
I don't call the winterfeldt puller set at $500 reasonable. How much is the
Thoma puller set and how is it made.

>Is anyone aware of the front wheel bearing puller kit (I don't recall
>how many pieces it consists of) and included video of the process, that
>GMCer Ken Thoma of Fredericksburg TX (210-997-3690) has available for
>both pulling and pressing on the bearings?
>
>Don't know that I would advocate reinventing the "wheel'!
>
> Paul Bartz
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Thomas G. Warner [SMTP:warner]
>> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:22 AM
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Subject: Re: GMC: bearing puller
>>
>> Servicing the front end is not difficult for anyone that takes their
>> time and reads the manual. It is quite detailed. Add the cinnabar
>> article that I referenced and you can do it perfectly.
>>
>> In my opinion it is not a good idea to cut bearings and races off
>> spindles, or use a torch on them. You are working in a very confined
>> area, between the disk rotor and the hub and one slip and you can get
>> into deeper trouble than you need. Who needs a notch cut in their
>> spindle or rotor???? Bearing and race material is HARD! If you have
>> the money to buy a cutting torch and high speed grinder you have money
>> to buy a good bearing puller.
>>
>> And another thing these bearings ARE in fact much different than most
>> others. They are actually 2 bearings separated by a carefully
>> dimensioned spacer so that the correct axial clearance can be
>> maintained under load. The parts cannot be interchanged with other
>> bearing sets uless you know exactly how to match them.
>>
>> What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
>> anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
>> 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
>> bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and work.
>> If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear they are
>> more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be replaced if
>> signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go 100K miles
>> before replacement, and maybe more.
>>
>> There is no substitute for doing it the right way. A good puller to
>> remove and reinstall the bearings is a necessity for doing the job
>> right. Every manual on bearings that I have ever read tells me to
>> never blow off the bearings with compressed air and spin the bearing
>> because it will put microscopic tracks in the bearings and races.
>> Installing the bearing by using a large socket and hammer likely does
>> the same thing. If you don't believe it listen to all of the horror
>> stories of GMCers that took their coaches to a local shop where the
>> mechanic tried various methods, including cutting and torching to
>> remove the bearings only to result in disaster.
>>
>> I have learned from long experience that it is foolhardy to try and
>> cut corners. Buy or borrow the right tools, get the right technical
>> manuals, have someone show you the right way to accomplish the job if
>> they are available, and you will not constantly be wondering when the
>> thing will fail or fall apart. it is called peace of mind.
>>
>> The one technical seminar that I went to in Kingston Ontario at our
>> last GMC Heritage Cruiser rally was worth a million books. The guys
>> who have done it many times before, the right way, taught the rest of
>> us how to do it hands on. Most of them saved there old bearings and
>> used them again. I cannot stress enough that the smartest thing we
>> can do is join a good GMC club and instantly have available all of the
>> technical help that you need. There is no substitute for experience.
>>
>> Just my 2 cents.
>>
>>

>>
>> In a message dated 98-06-28 20:19:49 EDT, you write:
>>
>> Tom, I would be interested in a bearing puller, and have seen
>> references to several solutions to this in the Archives. You
>> indicated that the cost would be about $200. If I intend to stick
>> with this endeavor for the long haul and that long haul might include
>> 4 of 5 or more bearing inspections, I really would like to tackle this
>> myself.
>>
>> At the present time, with no manuals, (they are ordered), I cannot
>> comprehend the degree of complexity involved with this procedure. I
>> have rebuilt many hubs and serviced many bearings, but no front wheel
>> drives. It may scare me to death. I expect my shop manual this next
>> week, and would like to look at this operation before I commit to a
>> puller, rather than having a machine shop pull the bearing locally, as
>> another GMC'er suggested.
>>
>> I will stay in touch!
>>
>> Larry / Palm Beach 75
>>
>>
>> OK I going to go off the deep end. These bearing are not that
>> different from any others. If you are not going to reuse them just
>> get them off! Take a grinding tool and cut through the race. Or do
>> what I did take a cutting torch and cut them off.
>>
>> Why is this a problem? If I am going to remove them why do I want to
>> save them. Get new bearings and get on with it.
>>
>> I am sorry but the Myth around here is getting to me. I promise not
>> to get this heated for awhile. Well maybe for a little while.
>>
>> Arch
>
>
 
I have to disagre with Wes on this issue. Timken will tell you the same
thing that I told you , if it runs well for 25K miles and shows no wear it
does not have to be changed.

>

>> >
>> > What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
>> > anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
>> > 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
>> > bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and
>> > work. If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear
>> > they are more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be
>> > replaced if signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go
>> > 100K miles before replacement, and maybe more.
>
>Thomas,
>
>When we got our GMC we were told by Cinnabar to replace, the
>front wheel bearings. Wes told us that the front wheel bearings was
>a very weak area on the GMC and we should plan to replace them
>somewhere around every 30,000 miles. He told us that repacking was a
>kind of false economy. (our 2 cents worth)
>
>We put it off and put it off, and of course then we were forced to
>have it done.
>Les & Des
>Living Praise Ministries
>
>mailto:lesndes
>Visit us at: http://www.livingpraise.org
>
>
 
Thom:

Although I don't have Ken's kit, I have seen it in the past.
Unfortunately, I don't remember the total number of pieces in the kit.
It does, as I said, both remove and install the bearings. Normally,
most pullers available commercially, don't have the capability to
reinstall a bearing they pull off.

Perhaps you would be interested in talking to Ken about the details of
his kit?

Paul

> From: Thomas G. Warner [SMTP:warner]
> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 1:02 PM
> Subject: RE: GMC: bearing puller
>
> I do not want to reinvent the wheel if I can buy a puller for a
> reasonable price. The set should sell for $200 or less.
>
> I don't call the winterfeldt puller set at $500 reasonable. How much
> is the Thoma puller set and how is it made.
>

>
> >Is anyone aware of the front wheel bearing puller kit (I don't recall
> >how many pieces it consists of) and included video of the process,
> that
> >GMCer Ken Thoma of Fredericksburg TX (210-997-3690) has available for
> >both pulling and pressing on the bearings?
> >
> >Don't know that I would advocate reinventing the "wheel'!
> >
> > Paul Bartz
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Thomas G. Warner [SMTP:warner]
> >> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:22 AM
> >> Subject: Re: GMC: bearing puller
> >>
> >> Servicing the front end is not difficult for anyone that takes
> their
> >> time and reads the manual. It is quite detailed. Add the cinnabar
> >> article that I referenced and you can do it perfectly.
> >>
> >> In my opinion it is not a good idea to cut bearings and races off
> >> spindles, or use a torch on them. You are working in a very
> confined
> >> area, between the disk rotor and the hub and one slip and you can
> get
> >> into deeper trouble than you need. Who needs a notch cut in their
> >> spindle or rotor???? Bearing and race material is HARD! If you
> have
> >> the money to buy a cutting torch and high speed grinder you have
> money
> >> to buy a good bearing puller.
> >>
> >> And another thing these bearings ARE in fact much different than
> most
> >> others. They are actually 2 bearings separated by a carefully
> >> dimensioned spacer so that the correct axial clearance can be
> >> maintained under load. The parts cannot be interchanged with other
> >> bearing sets uless you know exactly how to match them.
> >>
> >> What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
> >> anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
> >> 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
> >> bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and
> work.
> >> If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear they
> are
> >> more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be replaced if
> >> signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go 100K miles
> >> before replacement, and maybe more.
> >>
> >> There is no substitute for doing it the right way. A good puller
> to
> >> remove and reinstall the bearings is a necessity for doing the job
> >> right. Every manual on bearings that I have ever read tells me to
> >> never blow off the bearings with compressed air and spin the
> bearing
> >> because it will put microscopic tracks in the bearings and races.
> >> Installing the bearing by using a large socket and hammer likely
> does
> >> the same thing. If you don't believe it listen to all of the
> horror
> >> stories of GMCers that took their coaches to a local shop where the
> >> mechanic tried various methods, including cutting and torching to
> >> remove the bearings only to result in disaster.
> >>
> >> I have learned from long experience that it is foolhardy to try and
> >> cut corners. Buy or borrow the right tools, get the right
> technical
> >> manuals, have someone show you the right way to accomplish the job
> if
> >> they are available, and you will not constantly be wondering when
> the
> >> thing will fail or fall apart. it is called peace of mind.
> >>
> >> The one technical seminar that I went to in Kingston Ontario at our
> >> last GMC Heritage Cruiser rally was worth a million books. The
> guys
> >> who have done it many times before, the right way, taught the rest
> of
> >> us how to do it hands on. Most of them saved there old bearings
> and
> >> used them again. I cannot stress enough that the smartest thing we
> >> can do is join a good GMC club and instantly have available all of
> the
> >> technical help that you need. There is no substitute for
> experience.
> >>
> >> Just my 2 cents.
> >>
> >>

> >>
> >> In a message dated 98-06-28 20:19:49 EDT, you write:
> >>
> >> Tom, I would be interested in a bearing puller, and have seen
> >> references to several solutions to this in the Archives. You
> >> indicated that the cost would be about $200. If I intend to stick
> >> with this endeavor for the long haul and that long haul might
> include
> >> 4 of 5 or more bearing inspections, I really would like to tackle
> this
> >> myself.
> >>
> >> At the present time, with no manuals, (they are ordered), I cannot
> >> comprehend the degree of complexity involved with this procedure.
> I
> >> have rebuilt many hubs and serviced many bearings, but no front
> wheel
> >> drives. It may scare me to death. I expect my shop manual this
> next
> >> week, and would like to look at this operation before I commit to a
> >> puller, rather than having a machine shop pull the bearing locally,
> as
> >> another GMC'er suggested.
> >>
> >> I will stay in touch!
> >>
> >> Larry / Palm Beach 75
> >>
> >>
> >> OK I going to go off the deep end. These bearing are not that
> >> different from any others. If you are not going to reuse them just
> >> get them off! Take a grinding tool and cut through the race. Or
> do
> >> what I did take a cutting torch and cut them off.
> >>
> >> Why is this a problem? If I am going to remove them why do I want
> to
> >> save them. Get new bearings and get on with it.
> >>
> >> I am sorry but the Myth around here is getting to me. I promise
> not
> >> to get this heated for awhile. Well maybe for a little while.
> >>
> >> Arch
> >
> >
 
Another candidate for a front bearing puller kit at reasonable cost.
200'ish = reasonable, 500, I'd have to think real hard ).

I'll keep monitoring, but thought I'd jump in to express interest.

Heinz
www.bytedesigns.com/gmc

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bartz, Paul
To: 'gmcmotorhome'
Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 10:22 AM
Subject: RE: GMC: bearing puller

>Thom:
>
>Although I don't have Ken's kit, I have seen it in the past.
>Unfortunately, I don't remember the total number of pieces in the kit.
>It does, as I said, both remove and install the bearings. Normally,
>most pullers available commercially, don't have the capability to
>reinstall a bearing they pull off.
>
>Perhaps you would be interested in talking to Ken about the details of
>his kit?
>
> Paul
>
>> From: Thomas G. Warner [SMTP:warner]
>> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 1:02 PM
>> Subject: RE: GMC: bearing puller
>>
>> I do not want to reinvent the wheel if I can buy a puller for a
>> reasonable price. The set should sell for $200 or less.
>>
>> I don't call the winterfeldt puller set at $500 reasonable. How much
>> is the Thoma puller set and how is it made.
>>

>>
>> >Is anyone aware of the front wheel bearing puller kit (I don't recall
>> >how many pieces it consists of) and included video of the process,
>> that
>> >GMCer Ken Thoma of Fredericksburg TX (210-997-3690) has available for
>> >both pulling and pressing on the bearings?
>> >
>> >Don't know that I would advocate reinventing the "wheel'!
>> >
>> > Paul Bartz
>> >
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: Thomas G. Warner [SMTP:warner]
>> >> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:22 AM
>> >> Subject: Re: GMC: bearing puller
>> >>
>> >> Servicing the front end is not difficult for anyone that takes
>> their
>> >> time and reads the manual. It is quite detailed. Add the cinnabar
>> >> article that I referenced and you can do it perfectly.
>> >>
>> >> In my opinion it is not a good idea to cut bearings and races off
>> >> spindles, or use a torch on them. You are working in a very
>> confined
>> >> area, between the disk rotor and the hub and one slip and you can
>> get
>> >> into deeper trouble than you need. Who needs a notch cut in their
>> >> spindle or rotor???? Bearing and race material is HARD! If you
>> have
>> >> the money to buy a cutting torch and high speed grinder you have
>> money
>> >> to buy a good bearing puller.
>> >>
>> >> And another thing these bearings ARE in fact much different than
>> most
>> >> others. They are actually 2 bearings separated by a carefully
>> >> dimensioned spacer so that the correct axial clearance can be
>> >> maintained under load. The parts cannot be interchanged with other
>> >> bearing sets uless you know exactly how to match them.
>> >>
>> >> What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing the bearings
>> >> anyway. Servicing calls for repacking and inspecting them every
>> >> 25Kmiles not replacing them. It is an unnecessary expense. Good
>> >> bearings that have 25K, 50K or more miles on them are proven and
>> work.
>> >> If they are cleaned and inspected, and have no visible wear they
>> are
>> >> more reliable than a new bearing. They should only be replaced if
>> >> signs of wear are apparent. These bearings can easily go 100K miles
>> >> before replacement, and maybe more.
>> >>
>> >> There is no substitute for doing it the right way. A good puller
>> to
>> >> remove and reinstall the bearings is a necessity for doing the job
>> >> right. Every manual on bearings that I have ever read tells me to
>> >> never blow off the bearings with compressed air and spin the
>> bearing
>> >> because it will put microscopic tracks in the bearings and races.
>> >> Installing the bearing by using a large socket and hammer likely
>> does
>> >> the same thing. If you don't believe it listen to all of the
>> horror
>> >> stories of GMCers that took their coaches to a local shop where the
>> >> mechanic tried various methods, including cutting and torching to
>> >> remove the bearings only to result in disaster.
>> >>
>> >> I have learned from long experience that it is foolhardy to try and
>> >> cut corners. Buy or borrow the right tools, get the right
>> technical
>> >> manuals, have someone show you the right way to accomplish the job
>> if
>> >> they are available, and you will not constantly be wondering when
>> the
>> >> thing will fail or fall apart. it is called peace of mind.
>> >>
>> >> The one technical seminar that I went to in Kingston Ontario at our
>> >> last GMC Heritage Cruiser rally was worth a million books. The
>> guys
>> >> who have done it many times before, the right way, taught the rest
>> of
>> >> us how to do it hands on. Most of them saved there old bearings
>> and
>> >> used them again. I cannot stress enough that the smartest thing we
>> >> can do is join a good GMC club and instantly have available all of
>> the
>> >> technical help that you need. There is no substitute for
>> experience.
>> >>
>> >> Just my 2 cents.
>> >>
>> >>

>> >>
>> >> In a message dated 98-06-28 20:19:49 EDT, you write:
>> >>
>> >> Tom, I would be interested in a bearing puller, and have seen
>> >> references to several solutions to this in the Archives. You
>> >> indicated that the cost would be about $200. If I intend to stick
>> >> with this endeavor for the long haul and that long haul might
>> include
>> >> 4 of 5 or more bearing inspections, I really would like to tackle
>> this
>> >> myself.
>> >>
>> >> At the present time, with no manuals, (they are ordered), I cannot
>> >> comprehend the degree of complexity involved with this procedure.
>> I
>> >> have rebuilt many hubs and serviced many bearings, but no front
>> wheel
>> >> drives. It may scare me to death. I expect my shop manual this
>> next
>> >> week, and would like to look at this operation before I commit to a
>> >> puller, rather than having a machine shop pull the bearing locally,
>> as
>> >> another GMC'er suggested.
>> >>
>> >> I will stay in touch!
>> >>
>> >> Larry / Palm Beach 75
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> OK I going to go off the deep end. These bearing are not that
>> >> different from any others. If you are not going to reuse them just
>> >> get them off! Take a grinding tool and cut through the race. Or
>> do
>> >> what I did take a cutting torch and cut them off.
>> >>
>> >> Why is this a problem? If I am going to remove them why do I want
>> to
>> >> save them. Get new bearings and get on with it.
>> >>
>> >> I am sorry but the Myth around here is getting to me. I promise
>> not
>> >> to get this heated for awhile. Well maybe for a little while.
>> >>
>> >> Arch
>> >
>> >
 
I have the set and video. I will need to do the job again real soon.
If some one wants to assist I will help do there's too. All they have
to do is camp out in my back yard and help me. We can do both coaches
in one day easily.
 
Chuck where do you live?

>I have the set and video. I will need to do the job again real soon.
>If some one wants to assist I will help do there's too. All they have
>to do is camp out in my back yard and help me. We can do both coaches
>in one day easily.
>
>
>
 
Yes, his tool kit comes with a video covering the entire process of
removing and installing the front wheel bearings.

Paul Bartz

> -----Original Message-----
> From: LNelson208 [SMTP:LNelson208]
> Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 8:46 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: GMC: Bearing puller
>
> I got my GMCMM free issue today....plus my care package (manuals +
> bulletins + back issues of GMC Motor News) from Cinnabar ...man, am I
> in heaven? Soon I will possess a little more knowledge on the subject
> of inspecting and/or replacing the front bearings. I traced out my
> known service record of my coach, which I've owned for five days, and
> do not see any mention of bearing work in the past. I would probable
> opt for total replacement at this time, and only then go to the 25k
> inspection/clean/re-install route. For $80 each, I can make a few
> more visits to the plasma center, and then be sure of at least that
> component. I will attempt to contact Thoma this week. Do I
> understand he also has a video on this operation???
 
Larry,

Try Alex Sirum #941/763-1121 for any interior furniture.

David Lee Greenberg
GMC Motorhome Registry
200 MacFarlane Drive
Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829

>I bit the bullet and ordered the Thoma puller, which is $520 including
>shipping and the video and complete instruction. It pulls and it
>pushes. Color
>coded, too! That will be my last tool for a while!
>
>Anybody got any louvered door cabinets, either single door as in the
>rear, or
>doubles as in the front?? Larry Nelson, Palm Beach 75
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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There are baffles in the tanks. They were welded and occasionalling the
weld breaks at the top of the tank. Some kind of epoxy or JB Weld was
used to repair both of my tanks but to finally get to you question...I
don't know how they drained the tanks.

Seems to me you have to raise the coach some and drain into pans or big
buckets. There are drain plugs for each tank.

You may have to take a trip to use up some of that fuel.

David Lee Greenberg
GMC Motorhome Registry
200 MacFarlane Drive
Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829

>David...I did talk to Alex, he has some cabinets like mine, but just
>describes
>them as "usable". Seems I might take a chance, though.
>
>I now have a gasoline leak coming from the top to the passenger side
>tank. I
>know I overfilled, but now I have to get enough fuel out to drop the
>tank and
>find the offending line or? Thanks, Larry
>
 
Cleanest way to empty the tanks is to put a 1 quart gas can into the carb
fitting after removing the steel line from the fuel pump to the carb, add a
length of rubber fuel line from the steel line and into large container.
start the engine and let the fuel pump empty the tanks.

>There are baffles in the tanks. They were welded and occasionalling the
>weld breaks at the top of the tank. Some kind of epoxy or JB Weld was
>used to repair both of my tanks but to finally get to you question...I
>don't know how they drained the tanks.
>
>Seems to me you have to raise the coach some and drain into pans or big
>buckets. There are drain plugs for each tank.
>
>You may have to take a trip to use up some of that fuel.
>
> David Lee Greenberg
>GMC Motorhome Registry
> 200 MacFarlane Drive
>Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
>

>>David...I did talk to Alex, he has some cabinets like mine, but just
>>describes
>>them as "usable". Seems I might take a chance, though.
>>
>>I now have a gasoline leak coming from the top to the passenger side
>>tank. I
>>know I overfilled, but now I have to get enough fuel out to drop the
>>tank and
>>find the offending line or? Thanks, Larry
>>
>
 
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