Bearing Puller

H

hemogoblin

New member
Jul 9, 1998
138
0
0
Hi all,
Although I was one of the last to receive my bearing puller (Sept. 1,1999,
1st 50 order) I seemed to have one of the first 15. I tried to find a 4 or 6
ton jack that would fit between the rods but had no luck today, in fact 1
1/2 ton didn't fit. I have yet to use my puller, so I don't know how
difficult it will be to use manually, in fact I seem to recall a discussion
about the improved model (5 3/4) back last year being much stronger.
Has anyone used the 5 1/8 model yet? if so how easy was it to pull the
bearings? My wheel bearings have probably never been removed so they may be
frozen, will the puller I have work with muscle power, or will I need lots
of help?
By the way I picked up the Timken #23 sets, (with the inscribed .0095)& 4
seals at a local bearing supplier $140. total.
Mark '77 Palm Beach LINY
 
Mark, from my experience the 5 3/16" diameter puller is extremely awkward
and arduous to use in its present configuration given the extremely tight
press fit of the bearings. I had the knuckle off on a piece of plywood on
the front porch and it took me a a few hours of beating on a 1 inch combo
wrench with a 3 lb hammer to get the bearing off (read: blisters).
Installing the new bearings was a bit easier, IIRC. Keeping everything
clean was a bit problematic, though, in my case. Didn't have any probs
with getting the hub off, a couple of small pry bars popped it right off.

I too have occasionally been looking for a small hydraulic jack that would
fit, even if it had to be modified somewhat, but haven't run across one
yet. If I find one I'll post it here for the "first 15" owners. If anyone
else finds one, I would certainly appreciate reading about it here as well.

One thing that might make it easier with the existing setup is to fabricate
a 1/2 to 1/2 inch female adapter (sorta like two 1/2 inch sockets welded
together) so that an impact wrench can be used with the male square end of
the OTC puller screw. This may be an off-the-shelf adapter, but I couldn't
find one on short notice. I really can't attest that this will work any
better since I didn't have one to try out.

You got a good deal on your bearings. Mine came from Cinnabar at near $100
per set.

MOO (My Opinion Only)
Ritch
76 Birchaven


>Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 21:44:43 -0400
>From: "hemogoblin"
>
>Although I was one of the last to receive my bearing puller (Sept. 1,1999,
>1st 50 order) I seemed to have one of the first 15. I tried to find a 4 or 6
>ton jack that would fit between the rods but had no luck today, in fact 1
>1/2 ton didn't fit. I have yet to use my puller, so I don't know how
>difficult it will be to use manually, in fact I seem to recall a discussion
>about the improved model (5 3/4) back last year being much stronger.
>Has anyone used the 5 1/8 model yet? if so how easy was it to pull the
>bearings? My wheel bearings have probably never been removed so they may be
>frozen, will the puller I have work with muscle power, or will I need lots
>of help?
>By the way I picked up the Timken #23 sets, (with the inscribed .0095)& 4
>seals at a local bearing supplier $140. total.
>Mark 1 '77 Palm Beach LINY
 
> I too have occasionally been looking for a small hydraulic jack that would
> fit, even if it had to be modified somewhat, but haven't run across one
> yet. If I find one I'll post it here for the "first 15" owners. If
anyone
> else finds one, I would certainly appreciate reading about it here as
well.

Have you considered getting a Porta-Power? Around $180 gets a complete kit,
and it is a very useful tool for many other tasks. I wouldn't take for mine.

In this application, think of it as a hydraulic jack that is about 2" in
diameter and 8" long.

Travis
 
Mark,
I too was one of the last to order, but got the old style. I wish I was as
lucky with the Loto:^)

I have not tried to use it yet. It's still in the box waiting to do its
magic. I have to assume that it will work as advertised. It's just that the
hydraulic approach would be easier.

Let us know however if you find a jack that fits.

Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI

> Hi all,
> Although I was one of the last to receive my bearing puller (Sept. 1,1999,
> 1st 50 order) I seemed to have one of the first 15. I tried to find a 4 or 6
> ton jack that would fit between the rods but had no luck today, in fact 1
> 1/2 ton didn't fit. I have yet to use my puller, so I don't know how
> difficult it will be to use manually, in fact I seem to recall a discussion
> about the improved model (5 3/4) back last year being much stronger.
> Has anyone used the 5 1/8 model yet? if so how easy was it to pull the
> bearings? My wheel bearings have probably never been removed so they may be
> frozen, will the puller I have work with muscle power, or will I need lots
> of help?
> By the way I picked up the Timken #23 sets, (with the inscribed .0095)& 4
> seals at a local bearing supplier $140. total.
> Mark '77 Palm Beach LINY
 
Tom

You sitting back sipping tea, watching this discussion ??

Folks,
Instructions are posted on bdub's (?) site and that thing Does work.
Now, everybody outside and get those bearings off :-)

Mikeb ' 77 Kingsley
Antigonish NS .......just back from the Vernon Center
GMC Inspection Tour .........10/10
 
Tom,
Good work for a New Yorker. However, you do need a little more work.

"Yall come back Ya hear!"
That should be "heah" but it was a good start.{:>)

Roger
 
Darren.

If Dave won't let you get his puller dirty, let me know. I will be
thru Calgary in about two weeks and will bring mine! Also I built an
attatchment for the bearing puller for about $10.00 that takes the place
of the expensive OTC 927 puller. Let me know if you want details. It is
very easy (and cheap) to build. You don't even need a tire/rim to mount
it on to make it work.
Take note (measure) where the inner seal, (to diff,) is installed in
the knuckle, before pulling the bearings off. Clean up the inner seal
area and the face it rides against, (the outer driveshaft joint) and
slide the two back together.
Get your head inside to see if the seal is being compressed by the
joint (sealing) surface.
If not, then the seal was previously installed too deep into the
knuckle. It will not seal the elements and soon fail.
If the seal was not installed deep enough into the knuckle, then the
seal will eventually fail from being over-compressed (squashed) and
again in time may not seal, and fail.
Take your observations into consideration when re-installing the inner
seal. The repair manual does not state where the seal must be. It only
states how to use the factory seal install tool. Yeah right!

I also just finished converting my Thetford dump valve to the more
popular Valtera valve. With a common fitting available at rv shops I was
able to put the Valtera in place of the original Thetford Valve. Up here
in Regina SK.
a replacement Thetford valve was $90.00 CDN (special order) vs. the
Valtera (stocked everywhere) at $15.00 CDN. "Bristol" valves fit all
Valtera valves and are dimensionally the same and can use each others
components.

The Valtera is available at ...CDN. Tire, Wal-Mart, all RV shops in
Canada (and others), and Wal-mart, K-Mart, all rv shops in the USA and
probably many, many discount places as well.You do the math!
I also plumbed the discharge line to the side and thru the frame on the
drivers side. Again let me know if you want details.

I DO have pictures of my two projects that I will post, but I am
"going away" on my first trip in my GMC shortly and have "many little
fixes" to perform before I go. I don't think I will have time to put the
pictures up. Any interested please be patient till I get back.

Regards, Gil
 
I do hope part of your plan was to stop and visit. Darren

> Darren.
>
> If Dave won't let you get his puller dirty, let me know. I will be
> thru Calgary in about two weeks and will bring mine! Also I built an
> attatchment for the bearing puller for about $10.00 that takes the place
> of the expensive OTC 927 puller. Let me know if you want details. It is
> very easy (and cheap) to build. You don't even need a tire/rim to mount
> it on to make it work.
> Take note (measure) where the inner seal, (to diff,) is installed in
> the knuckle, before pulling the bearings off. Clean up the inner seal
> area and the face it rides against, (the outer driveshaft joint) and
> slide the two back together.
> Get your head inside to see if the seal is being compressed by the
> joint (sealing) surface.
> If not, then the seal was previously installed too deep into the
> knuckle. It will not seal the elements and soon fail.
> If the seal was not installed deep enough into the knuckle, then the
> seal will eventually fail from being over-compressed (squashed) and
> again in time may not seal, and fail.
> Take your observations into consideration when re-installing the inner
> seal. The repair manual does not state where the seal must be. It only
> states how to use the factory seal install tool. Yeah right!
>
> I also just finished converting my Thetford dump valve to the more
> popular Valtera valve. With a common fitting available at rv shops I was
> able to put the Valtera in place of the original Thetford Valve. Up here
> in Regina SK.
> a replacement Thetford valve was $90.00 CDN (special order) vs. the
> Valtera (stocked everywhere) at $15.00 CDN. "Bristol" valves fit all
> Valtera valves and are dimensionally the same and can use each others
> components.
>
> The Valtera is available at ...CDN. Tire, Wal-Mart, all RV shops in
> Canada (and others), and Wal-mart, K-Mart, all rv shops in the USA and
> probably many, many discount places as well.You do the math!
> I also plumbed the discharge line to the side and thru the frame on the
> drivers side. Again let me know if you want details.
>
> I DO have pictures of my two projects that I will post, but I am
> "going away" on my first trip in my GMC shortly and have "many little
> fixes" to perform before I go. I don't think I will have time to put the
> pictures up. Any interested please be patient till I get back.
>
> Regards, Gil

- --
Darren Paget
76 Experimental
Another Fab Day
http://www.TZEplus.com
 
I'll get Dave over here too and we can talk about how expensive these things
are. I'll get Gary too and we can have one of those 'Mini Rallies'.
Darren

> Darren.
>
> If Dave won't let you get his puller dirty, let me know. I will be
> thru Calgary in about two weeks and will bring mine! Also I built an
> attatchment for the bearing puller for about $10.00 that takes the place
> of the expensive OTC 927 puller.

- --
Darren Paget
76 Experimental
Another Fab Day
http://www.TZEplus.com
 
I would like to see your puller and your valve conversion.

gene

>Darren.
>
> If Dave won't let you get his puller dirty, let me know. I will be
>thru Calgary in about two weeks and will bring mine! Also I built an
>attatchment for the bearing puller for about $10.00 that takes the place
>of the expensive OTC 927 puller. Let me know if you want details. It is
>very easy (and cheap) to build. You don't even need a tire/rim to mount
>it on to make it work.
> Take note (measure) where the inner seal, (to diff,) is installed in
>the knuckle, before pulling the bearings off. Clean up the inner seal
>area and the face it rides against, (the outer driveshaft joint) and
>slide the two back together.
> Get your head inside to see if the seal is being compressed by the
>joint (sealing) surface.
>If not, then the seal was previously installed too deep into the
>knuckle. It will not seal the elements and soon fail.
> If the seal was not installed deep enough into the knuckle, then the
>seal will eventually fail from being over-compressed (squashed) and
>again in time may not seal, and fail.
> Take your observations into consideration when re-installing the inner
>seal. The repair manual does not state where the seal must be. It only
>states how to use the factory seal install tool. Yeah right!
>
> I also just finished converting my Thetford dump valve to the more
>popular Valtera valve. With a common fitting available at rv shops I was
>able to put the Valtera in place of the original Thetford Valve. Up here
>in Regina SK.
>a replacement Thetford valve was $90.00 CDN (special order) vs. the
>Valtera (stocked everywhere) at $15.00 CDN. "Bristol" valves fit all
>Valtera valves and are dimensionally the same and can use each others
>components.
>
> The Valtera is available at ...CDN. Tire, Wal-Mart, all RV shops in
>Canada (and others), and Wal-mart, K-Mart, all rv shops in the USA and
>probably many, many discount places as well.You do the math!
> I also plumbed the discharge line to the side and thru the frame on the
>drivers side. Again let me know if you want details.
>
> I DO have pictures of my two projects that I will post, but I am
>"going away" on my first trip in my GMC shortly and have "many little
>fixes" to perform before I go. I don't think I will have time to put the
>pictures up. Any interested please be patient till I get back.
>
>Regards, Gil
>
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
Thanks Tom,

Thanks for a great product. I recently pulled my front wheel bearings
with the puller I bought from you some time ago . It was one of the
first type which can't be fitted with a hydraulic jack. They came off
so easily that I can't imagine why anyone would want to carry a jack
around. I guess if you were using it in a shop to pull bearings
everyday, a jack would be beneficial . However, for use only every year
or two it's just not needed. Incidently my spindles(hubs) are not
undersized yet they came off easily with just a hand wrench .
Thanks for doing your design work properly . I now feel more secure when
traveling in places where it would be hard to find a mechanic who could
pull these bearings without damaging my coach.

A Satisfied Customer,
Hugh Fellows
 
Despite all of the EZ testimonials out here, I stand by my original post as
far as removing *MY* front bearings bereft of hydraulic or impact wrench
aids. Tom's bearing collar is the best that I've seen - no criticism
there. I was just relating my own personal saga with his earlier tool set
in my own particular situation. And no, I ain't no "gorilla", I weigh
some 130 lbs soaking wet and have to ask friends to torque much over 200 lbs

Ritch, 76 Birch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
GMCMI Fall 2026 Rally
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back