Battery Cutoff switch

T

tom geiger

New member
Dec 31, 2006
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Since I’m getting back into all the battery and grounding issues on my coach was also wanting to install a battery cut off switch for my storage of
it. Any suggestions on how and where. Seemed like I remember up by the isolator, just don’t recall which cable I interrupt there?

Thanks,
Tom
76 Eleganza 2
Kansas City, Mo
 
Checkout Waytek Wire or Blue Sea Systems for such items.

>
>
> Since I’m getting back into all the battery and grounding issues on my coach was also wanting to install a battery cut off switch for my storage of
> it. Any suggestions on how and where. Seemed like I remember up by the isolator, just don’t recall which cable I interrupt there?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 76 Eleganza 2
> Kansas City, Mo
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I strongly recommend installing 2 battery cut off switches. One for the engine battery and one for the house battery(s). Put them in easily
accessible locations in he main battery cable coming for the batteries(s). That is the only thing that saved my coach from burning to the ground
about 10 years ago. It also possibly saved my attached garage and house too. Mine was an electric fuel pump fed fire and pulling the switch QUICKLY
removed the source of fuel. It still did over $10,000 in damage.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Ken, where did you place yours? Inside the coach or out in the engine bay firewall? It sounds like it would outside on the firewall. One would be
placed on the left of the isolator, taking care of the starter battery, and then one being place on the right of the isolator taking care of
interrupting the long cable leading back to my house battery back by the generator.

TG
76 Eleganza 2
Kansas City, Mo
 
Advance stocks a reasonably cheap knife switch which fits on the battery post. I put one in my daughter's 20+ year old Taurus to overcome a
parasitic load. The car was given her, she's gotten three years out of it, and to me it isn't worth digging around in the heat to find the problem -
even the fuse box isn't very easy to access on it. She just opens the switch if the car is going to sit for a day or toe - common in the virus
situation - and closes it when she needs the car. There's plenty of room for the switch under the GMC hood and in the rear. I think there was one
for side terminal batteries as well. It doesn't look nearly as spiffy as the 'marine' disconnects but it's much cheaper and easier to install.

--jiohnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
I have a long knife switch in both locations. I do not know where to get them these days or who even made that type.

You want the switch electrically as close to the battery as possible. So in my case the front one is mounted under the passenger side hood to the
fiberglass or aluminum plate that the isolator is mounted on. I forget which it is.

I ran the positive battery cable to the switch and then on to it's normal termination point which is one side of the boost solenoid. On mine the
switch opens downward. The type of switch you buy will really determine it's mounting location. Do not install this one in line with the negative
cable as you will have two cables rather than one to disconnect.

The simplest one to use is one that mounts directly to the battery post. It is a little more difficult to reach there and when I had my under hood
engine fire I would not have been able to reach it due to the flames.

I am assuming that you have rear engine batteries and a long heavy cable going from the boost solenoid to the rear batteries. If this is your
configuration, then the rear switch needs to be mounted in the rear battery compartment either on the top of the battery or in my case to the rear
wall of the compartment.

You want to be able to get to is fast and easily. If you still have a front cover on the battery compartment then these locations are not easily /
quickly accessible and you will have to find a better location outside of the box. Locating it up front is not an option as it will not disconnect
the battery from the coach up there.

If you have front mounted house batteries then we need to discuss a different option for you.

If you get battery mounted switches, be real careful in your selection. There is a lot of cheap Chinese junk ones out there. I personally do not
like this location because of the slightly restricted access and also picking up dirt and corrosion but they will work there.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
These rotary cutoff switches are easy to install (see link for picture).
I see Jim Bounds is using them now as well. I got mine for around $12
each on Amazon. Very easy to reach, to use, and to see.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7243/medium/IMG_5592.JPG

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Ken
Burton via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2020 12:13 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Ken Burton
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery Cutoff switch

I have a long knife switch in both locations. I do not know where to
get them these days or who even made that type.

You want the switch electrically as close to the battery as possible.
So in my case the front one is mounted under the passenger side hood to
the
fiberglass or aluminum plate that the isolator is mounted on. I forget
which it is.

I ran the positive battery cable to the switch and then on to it's
normal termination point which is one side of the boost solenoid. On
mine the
switch opens downward. The type of switch you buy will really determine
it's mounting location. Do not install this one in line with the
negative
cable as you will have two cables rather than one to disconnect.

The simplest one to use is one that mounts directly to the battery post.
It is a little more difficult to reach there and when I had my under
hood
engine fire I would not have been able to reach it due to the flames.

I am assuming that you have rear engine batteries and a long heavy cable
going from the boost solenoid to the rear batteries. If this is your
configuration, then the rear switch needs to be mounted in the rear
battery compartment either on the top of the battery or in my case to
the rear
wall of the compartment.

You want to be able to get to is fast and easily. If you still have a
front cover on the battery compartment then these locations are not
easily /
quickly accessible and you will have to find a better location outside
of the box. Locating it up front is not an option as it will not
disconnect
the battery from the coach up there.

If you have front mounted house batteries then we need to discuss a
different option for you.

If you get battery mounted switches, be real careful in your selection.
There is a lot of cheap Chinese junk ones out there. I personally do
not
like this location because of the slightly restricted access and also
picking up dirt and corrosion but they will work there.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

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Dave - These are nicely mounted on the firewall, for your 78? Did you relocate the batteries from the back to up front? Or is it ok to mount these
switches so far from the batteries? Bob said to mount close to the batteries so I am wondering....
--
Kevin Carter
1977 Kingsley
Centennial CO
 
> These rotary cutoff switches are easy to install (see link for picture).
> I see Jim Bounds is using them now as well. I got mine for around $12
> each on Amazon. Very easy to reach, to use, and to see.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7243/medium/IMG_5592.JPG
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

I like to looks of those. I have never seen one in person. I was hoping someone would post something like that. In the picture, if you have rear
mounted batteriy(s), then you are not isolating the house battery(s) from the coach. If you have front mounted batteries then you are OK. Rear
mounted batteries need that switch near the battery(s) in the rear.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I put a similar master disconnect switch in my little Sugar Sand jet boat. SLICK!

D C "Mac" Macdonald
Amateur Radio K2GKK
Since 30 November '53
USAF and FAA, Retired
Member GMCMI & Classics
Oklahoma City, OK
"The Money Pit"
TZE166V101966
'76 ex-Palm Beach
k2gkk + hotmail dot com

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Ken Burton via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 21:04
To: gmclist
Cc: Ken Burton
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery Cutoff switch

> These rotary cutoff switches are easy to install (see link for picture).
> I see Jim Bounds is using them now as well. I got mine for around $12
> each on Amazon. Very easy to reach, to use, and to see.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7243/medium/IMG_5592.JPG
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

I like to looks of those. I have never seen one in person. I was hoping someone would post something like that. In the picture, if you have rear
mounted batteriy(s), then you are not isolating the house battery(s) from the coach. If you have front mounted batteries then you are OK. Rear
mounted batteries need that switch near the battery(s) in the rear.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

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I have a front mounted house battery. If it was in the rear it would be best to mount the switch for those batteries there.

>
> Dave - These are nicely mounted on the firewall, for your 78? Did you relocate the batteries from the back to up front? Or is it ok to mount these
> switches so far from the batteries? Bob said to mount close to the batteries so I am wondering....
> --
> Kevin Carter
> 1977 Kingsley
> Centennial CO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
If I were to use an exposed knife switch (which I wouldn’t) I would put one on the NEGATIVE side of each battery to not add a big short out hazard.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
I used them because they required fewer connections.... and as JohnL sez ANY cutoff wants to go on the negative battery terminal. The way mine are
built, the blade is cold when the switch is open. I want to able to see any corrosion or weakening of the contacts, which aren't visible on the
'marine' switches. Different concerns drive different selections.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
These knife switches that I used are insulated and when closed are covered by a thick plastic shield. The blade when open is covered by insulated
shrink tubing with about 1/2" exposed where it the actually contacts the receiptical part of the switch. Also when open the blade is on the dead
side. You have much more exposure on the terminals of the starer, isolator, or boost relay, to name a few.

I do not wish to argue the merits of Negative vs Positive cable opening. Either will work and in this case I prefer positive for several reasons.

Ken B.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
That picture looks like Shawn Bennear's '77. I'm not sure where he got his from, but mine are identical and from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=battery+cutoff+switch&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Lots of 'brands' for the exact same switch. I'm very happy with them.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Ed Clerkin via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2020 10:25 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Ed Clerkin
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery Cutoff switch

I like these switches but have no idea where to purchase them.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2pg3a1prry5skr/IMG_0045.PNG?dl=0
--
Ed Clerkin | 1974 GMC Canyon Lands 26’

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These are the exact ones I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Battery-Switch-12V-Waterproof/dp/B07DPNRWXW

Currently $12.99 plus they have a 10% off coupon and free shipping with Prime.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Dave Stragand via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2020 10:42 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Dave Stragand
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery Cutoff switch

That picture looks like Shawn Bennear's '77. I'm not sure where he got his from, but mine are identical and from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=battery+cutoff+switch&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Lots of 'brands' for the exact same switch. I'm very happy with them.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Ed Clerkin via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2020 10:25 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Ed Clerkin
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery Cutoff switch

I like these switches but have no idea where to purchase them.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2pg3a1prry5skr/IMG_0045.PNG?dl=0
--
Ed Clerkin | 1974 GMC Canyon Lands 26’

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On the firewall above all the batteries in my 23' I have two of these, one
each for engine and house:
https://www.intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/53-00066-100.pdf
They're controlled by a single SPDT-CO toggle switch mounted nearby. One
day I'll get around to running a pair of wires back to beside the
entry/exit door for another control switch -- where it should be.

No, I didn't pay the list prices for them; I probably found them at a
discount store in Elkhart, but that was memory time+ ago.

Having a control switch by the exit door IS important (most of my other
motorhomes have had them) in case of a fire -- turn the batteries off as
you leave.

Ken H.
 
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