Batteries

[richard waters]

> The problem isn't shorting cells, the problem is high resistance caused by
> mechanical and chemical damage. Most batteries die from sulfation, when the
> internal resistance of one or more of their cells disables the rest of the
> batteries. Also, I want to be able to use my house battery to start Homer
> under adverse conditions.
> Mark A

OK I'm learning a lot more about batteries then I knew before.

I have 2 new (last Fall) golf cart batteries and a TC40 charger.

I've never done an equalization (or whatever it's called) with the TC40 to get
rid of the battery killer called "sulfation." Are you other TC40 owners doing
this? If so can someone give me a blow by blow account on how it should be done
with our coaches?

I'm a little leery of just punching the button in the TC40 and letting it rip.

TIA
Richard Waters
1976 PB, Troy, MI

 

[darren paget]

To equalize the batteries is very hard on them. The statpower charger says how to do
it but recommends against doing it. If the batteries were new last year I am not
sure how necessary it would be. IMO Darren

> > The problem isn't shorting cells, the problem is high resistance caused by
> > mechanical and chemical damage. Most batteries die from sulfation, when the
> > internal resistance of one or more of their cells disables the rest of the
> > batteries. Also, I want to be able to use my house battery to start Homer
> > under adverse conditions.
> > Mark A
>
> OK I'm learning a lot more about batteries then I knew before.
>
> I have 2 new (last Fall) golf cart batteries and a TC40 charger.
>
> I've never done an equalization (or whatever it's called) with the TC40 to get
> rid of the battery killer called "sulfation." Are you other TC40 owners doing
> this? If so can someone give me a blow by blow account on how it should be done
> with our coaches?
>
> I'm a little leery of just punching the button in the TC40 and letting it rip.
>
> TIA
> Richard Waters
> 1976 PB, Troy, MI

- --
Darren Paget
76 Experimental
Another Fab Day
http://www.TZEplus.com

 

[henry davis]

> > The problem isn't shorting cells, the problem is high resistance caused by
> > mechanical and chemical damage. Most batteries die from sulfation, when the
> > internal resistance of one or more of their cells disables the rest of the
> > batteries. Also, I want to be able to use my house battery to start Homer
> > under adverse conditions.
> > Mark A
>
>OK I'm learning a lot more about batteries then I knew before.
>
> I have 2 new (last Fall) golf cart batteries and a TC40 charger.
>
>I've never done an equalization (or whatever it's called) with the TC40 to get
>rid of the battery killer called "sulfation." Are you other TC40 owners
>doing
>this?

I also use golf cart batteries. I equalize every few months because I'm too
lazy to use the hydrometer. The best way to decide when to equalize is to
measure the cell specific gravity. If you have variance from cell to cell
it's time to equalize. Also some experts recommend equalizing every 30-60
days as a way to mix up the electrolyte and avoid stratification. I'm not
sure I buy that argument yet.

> If so can someone give me a blow by blow account on how it should be done
>with our coaches?

CAUTION: read your manufacturer's instructions for equalizing. Some
batteries can't be equalized. First step is to disconnect all electronic
equipment such as stereos, computers that run off the 12V supply, etc. You
don't need to disconnect lights and fans so long as you don't run them.
Verify that sensitive electronics are disconnected by trying to turn them
on. Push the button and wait.

>I'm a little leery of just punching the button in the TC40 and letting it rip.
>
>TIA
>Richard Waters
>1976 PB, Troy, MI

Equalizing voltages can make halogen bulbs die faster, damage lower cost
electronic equipment that is connected to the battery, and damage some
expensive equipment intended for automotive use only (stereos and the
like). No big deal.

Henry