Batteries was BrakeGuard and other Hocum.

henry davis

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Dec 21, 1999
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>The myth is that two batteries in parallel will discharge each other.
>They won't.

Providing both batteries exhibit identical electrical characteristics
you're right. However, the charge/discharge cycle results in cell-to-cell
differentials in plate thickness, plate roughness, and un-removed sulfates.
This changes the electrical characteristics so that over time even
batteries that start out identical end up being different. Some plates end
up with dendritic growth that causes high resistance shorts. Sometimes the
dendrites dissolve and disappear. Sometimes they become more significant.
Some SEM photos of sulfated plates can be seen at
http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/marinetics/t1.htm For more in depth
review of the sulfation and de-sulfation process see
http://vdcelectronics.com/desulphation.htm

The equalization phase is intended to minimize and/or reverse the effects
of sulfation. However, because the sulfation process involves mechanically
altering the composition of the plates through shedding of the sulfates,
there is an inevitable degradation of the plate structure over time. As a
consequence the cells exhibit differing voltage characteristics, with the
result that two batteries over time become electrically different. And they
will discharge when configured in parallel.

You can learn more about the most modern technique used for de-sulfation
in: Testing Pulsed Current Conditioning to BenefitVehicle Battery
Performance published by SAE 1999
For a more commercial view see http://www.webcasting.com/pulse/howit.htm

> Now if you think that means two different types of
>batteries can be paralled then you are wrong.

Well, they can be. They may suffer discharge faster.

> They need to be the same.
>However they still won't discharge each other if different, only one will
>be discharged.

This depends on many factors. What you say is absolutely true for NiCads
but not true for other chemistries. For example, Take the case where
battery A is charging battery B due to a difference in charge states.
Depending on their internal resistances, one battery will get hotter than
the other. Ordinary lead acid batteries produce more voltage when they get
hotter (to a point). We used to use this fact when I was a kid in Maine to
start cars in the winter when their batteries were too low. Momentarily
short the battery using jumper cables. Sometimes the battery would heat up
enough to start the car. (not recommended practice but it worked). Suppose
that the donor battery gets hotter. That means that its voltage will rise
somewhat during the charging process. Once it cools off, the voltage is
correspondingly lower. Then battery B tries to charge A. Whether or not
this process will continue depends on many factors.

So how much of a problem can this be? As a rule of thumb, most of the
usable energy in a lead-acid battery is in the top 0.5 volt out of 12.6. If
only one cell is low by 0.25V the combined battery bank will have a useful
capacity of about 70% of the full charge capacity. A problem for people who
need the full capacity but not proving mutual discharge.

Why can your diesel truck run paralleled batteries? Keep in mind that most
automotive type regulators never go above 13.9V This means that automotive
batteries are NEVER fully charged by the alternator. (I'm not certain about
the GMC but have no reason to suspect otherwise). The reason for the
paralleled batteries is to increase the amperage available for cranking.
Most of the time starters never get close to running a battery down -even
though it isn't fully charged. A fully charged battery bank could probably
run your starter for at least 10-20 minutes. But all of this is fine for a
starting battery since you start and run your truck frequently. Therefore
the compromises made by the engineers work OK for starting a diesel. And,
most consumers are conditioned to accept that they must buy a new battery
every 3-5 years depending on where they live. Bottom line is that you
really don't need much charge to start your truck.

I know from personal experience that two paralleled batteries can mutually
discharge. I had a bulldozer that used two 8Ds in parallel for starting.
Two new Sears Diehard batteries were put in it one weekend. The next
weekend they were both flat. No sneak paths, no draw, just the two
batteries duking it out. An extreme case for certain, but the principle is
there.

All of this is irrelevant to those who do not dry camp for extended periods
of time. I can go 3-4 days without recharging using my 2 T-105 batteries -
and plan to add two more. I don't want the potential loss of energy from a
parallel configuration to impact my dry camping.

> > If you put a new battery with a dying battery you will kill
> > both of the batteries.
>
>Well thats true, did you think paralleling a good battery with a bad one
>would save the bad one ?

It really boils down to replace batteries in sets if you insist on
paralleling them permanently.

> > It is recommended that when a high capacity
> > battery bank is needed 2 6 volt high capacity batteries in series work
> > better and have a much longer life than a parallel battery layout.
>
>Nothing above really supports this.

The best 12V battery that I've found that matches up more or less favorably
to 2 T-105s is an industrial 8D deep cycle. But at three times the cost of
the golf cart batteries I'd call the GC batts the best deal. And, for
certain they are less sensitive to cell degradation than paralleled 12V
batts. (for paralleled batteries, the lower voltage cells will control how
much of a charge the paralleled batteries can accept)

>If the connections are bad you will have problems with both setups.
>if they are dirty and leak charge at different rates than one will
>be overcharged if they are in series. That does not happen if they
>are parallel. If the parallel system has bad connections one battery
>may do all the work, this does not happen with serial connections.

Your paralleled batteries are made up of series cells. Same potential
problems. Same results.

>And once again, of the dozen or so vehicles I have owned that came
>with two batteries they have all been 12 volt and all in parellel.
>Why do you suppose John Deere, Internation Harvester, Case, GMC,
>and Mack(4) all did it that way?
>
>Perhaps deep cycle applications like house batteries fare better with
>2x6 volts but I doubt that the difference is significant (opinion !!)
>so I use 12's, purchased and replaced as an identical set.

They fare better with deep cycle batteries. Golf Cart batteries are a
reasonable approximation to true deep cycle batts at a reasonable cost.
Gelled or AGM batteries theoretically can do better than GC batts but the
lifecycle cost is much higher. FWIW, it's the plate chemistry that makes
the difference between the batts. And, the best rule of thumb indicator for
capacity and longevity is battery weight - absent exotic technologies.
Solid plates versus porous plates. More lead versus less.

If parallel batteries work well for you in your GMC, go for it. They don't
meet my requirements.

Henry
 
>.
> >
> > And once again, of the dozen or so vehicles I have owned that came
> > with two batteries they have all been 12 volt and all in parellel.
> > Why do you suppose John Deere, Internation Harvester, Case, GMC,
> > and Mack(4) all did it that way?
> >
>
>To add additional fuel to fire, most boats I have seen use 12 volt closed
>cell batteries in parallel for "house" and engine starting application.
>
>Tony Bad

Different batteries are called for in different situations.

The major construction types are flooded (wet), gelled, and AGM (Absorbed
Glass Mat). AGM batteries are also sometimes called "starved electrolyte"
or "dry", because the fiberglass mat is only 95% saturated with Sulfuric
acid and there is no excess liquid.

Flooded may be standard, with removable caps, or the so-called "maintenance
free". All gelled are sealed and a few are "valve regulated", which means
that a tiny valve keeps a slight positive pressure. Nearly all AGM
batteries are sealed valve regulated. Most valve regulators maintain some
pressure - typically 1 to 4 psi at sea level.

Marine environments have more serious potential consequences of leaking
batteries, so they tend to chose sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries. The
paranoid and those in more extreme marine environments tend to chose AGM or
gelled cells because they don't leak (much).

The marine "deep cycle" batteries that you mention are a combination deep
cycle and starter battery. They'll start a smaller engine fine since they
have enough cranking amps and work fine for limited deep cycle usage
(compared to a true deep cycle).

FWIW, many folks will have no particular problems with paralleling same
age, same type, same manufacturer, same date code batteries. This is
because they start out similar enough that the self discharge rate swamps
any mutual discharge. As they age the discharge situation may get worse -
some will some won't. The other factor in RVers favor is the relatively low
number of cycles that the batteries are put through in a five year span.
The average RVer uses full hookups most of the time. Say that a GMCer is
more aggressive in using their coach and lives in it for 2 months per year.
That means that if they discharge their batteries fully. they'll get 60
cycles per year. Pretty much any battery should last for 5 years under this
scenario as long as it's kept charged while in storage. And, any battery
should work in a parallel configuration for a number of those years
assuming proper care. The chief difference that matters to battery life
between the different batteries is plate construction. Deep cycle batteries
use Lead-Antimony. The self discharge of batteries with Lead-Antimony
plates can be high - as much as 1% per day on an older battery. A new AGM
typically self-discharges at about 1-2% per month, while an old one may be
as much as 2% per week.

Bottom line: if you use your batteries lightly like most people you can get
away with darned near any configuration. If you use the batteries heavily
like a number of us do, you need to be more concerned with how to best
extend the useful life of your batteries.

Henry
 
I too feel like I am learning a lot about this topic and appreciate all the
expertise being passed around. We have used 12volt gel cell batteries in
parallel in our coach for the past many years. They have lasted well over 5
years, will hold a charge over many months of inactivity, start the coach
well (better than engine battery!) in boost situations and are more readily
available here on Long Island, where boats are far more common than
motorhomes.

I lack the expertise to say if they are bad, good, better, or best, but have
worked well for us, and I would recommend them highly if anyone wanted to
use them.

Tony Bad

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Henry Davis
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 11:35 AM
Subject: GMC: Batteries was Re: BrakeGuard and other Hocum.

> >.
> > >
> > > And once again, of the dozen or so vehicles I have owned that came
> > > with two batteries they have all been 12 volt and all in parellel.
> > > Why do you suppose John Deere, Internation Harvester, Case, GMC,
> > > and Mack(4) all did it that way?
> > >
> >
> >To add additional fuel to fire, most boats I have seen use 12 volt closed
> >cell batteries in parallel for "house" and engine starting application.
> >
> >Tony Bad
>
>
> Different batteries are called for in different situations.
>
> The major construction types are flooded (wet), gelled, and AGM (Absorbed
> Glass Mat). AGM batteries are also sometimes called "starved electrolyte"
> or "dry", because the fiberglass mat is only 95% saturated with Sulfuric
> acid and there is no excess liquid.
>
> Flooded may be standard, with removable caps, or the so-called
"maintenance
> free". All gelled are sealed and a few are "valve regulated", which means
> that a tiny valve keeps a slight positive pressure. Nearly all AGM
> batteries are sealed valve regulated. Most valve regulators maintain some
> pressure - typically 1 to 4 psi at sea level.
>
> Marine environments have more serious potential consequences of leaking
> batteries, so they tend to chose sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries. The
> paranoid and those in more extreme marine environments tend to chose AGM
or
> gelled cells because they don't leak (much).
>
> The marine "deep cycle" batteries that you mention are a combination deep
> cycle and starter battery. They'll start a smaller engine fine since they
> have enough cranking amps and work fine for limited deep cycle usage
> (compared to a true deep cycle).
>
> FWIW, many folks will have no particular problems with paralleling same
> age, same type, same manufacturer, same date code batteries. This is
> because they start out similar enough that the self discharge rate swamps
> any mutual discharge. As they age the discharge situation may get worse -
> some will some won't. The other factor in RVers favor is the relatively
low
> number of cycles that the batteries are put through in a five year span.
> The average RVer uses full hookups most of the time. Say that a GMCer is
> more aggressive in using their coach and lives in it for 2 months per
year.
> That means that if they discharge their batteries fully. they'll get 60
> cycles per year. Pretty much any battery should last for 5 years under
this
> scenario as long as it's kept charged while in storage. And, any battery
> should work in a parallel configuration for a number of those years
> assuming proper care. The chief difference that matters to battery life
> between the different batteries is plate construction. Deep cycle
batteries
> use Lead-Antimony. The self discharge of batteries with Lead-Antimony
> plates can be high - as much as 1% per day on an older battery. A new AGM
> typically self-discharges at about 1-2% per month, while an old one may be
> as much as 2% per week.
>
> Bottom line: if you use your batteries lightly like most people you can
get
> away with darned near any configuration. If you use the batteries heavily
> like a number of us do, you need to be more concerned with how to best
> extend the useful life of your batteries.
>
> Henry
>
>
 
>I too feel like I am learning a lot about this topic and appreciate all the
>expertise being passed around. We have used 12volt gel cell batteries in
>parallel in our coach for the past many years. They have lasted well over 5
>years, will hold a charge over many months of inactivity, start the coach
>well (better than engine battery!) in boost situations and are more readily
>available here on Long Island, where boats are far more common than
>motorhomes.
>
>I lack the expertise to say if they are bad, good, better, or best, but have
>worked well for us, and I would recommend them highly if anyone wanted to
>use them.

Tony,

You have about the best battery when it comes to self discharge. Their rate
is extremely low.

I think that you ave hit on a key point for battery selection - what's
available locally may be a better compromise than some other battery. I
live next to a marina and two West Marine locations, and reasonably close
to Pebble Beach. So all types of batteries are readily available. For me it
was matter of dollars per amp-hour coupled with energy density.

FWIW, some RV experts also recommend the gel cells if cost isn't an issue.

Henry
 
Arch,
I have "Managing 12 Volts" on my bookshelf. I also have "RV Electrical
Systems" which isn't too bad either. I agree fully with your recommendation on
the first book.
Richard

> In a message dated 07/11/2000 11:34:08 AM Central Daylight Time,

>
> >
> > I too feel like I am learning a lot about this topic and appreciate all
> > the
> > expertise being passed around. We have used 12volt gel cell batteries in
> >
> Tony, Richard and others.
>
> If you want to know a lot more about 12v electric systems I would suggest
> a book called "Managing 12 Volts" by Harold Barre. It is the most
> complete book on 12v systems I have ever found. I would not leave home
> without it.
>
> Take Care
> Arch