I know absolutely NOTHING about the 1973 air ride system. So I know I'm LOST. Then with parts missing. There is a pressure shut off switch. Were is the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
Barb's air compresor runs all the time that the ign is on in her 73.
- Thread starter Bob Dunahugh
- Start date
The manual on/off switch is the ignition key. The pressure switch is what
turns the compressor off when the pressure in the tank reaches the cut off
point. There must be a big air leak in the system.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403.
> I know absolutely NOTHING about the 1973 air ride system. So I know I'm
> LOST. Then with parts missing. There is a pressure shut off switch. Were is
> the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of
> this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
turns the compressor off when the pressure in the tank reaches the cut off
point. There must be a big air leak in the system.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403.
> I know absolutely NOTHING about the 1973 air ride system. So I know I'm
> LOST. Then with parts missing. There is a pressure shut off switch. Were is
> the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of
> this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
There's supposed to be a tank under the batteries. The pressure cut off switch is there on the tank.
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Androidhttps://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 19:57, Bob Dunahugh
I know absolutely NOTHING about the 1973 air ride system. So I know I'm LOST. Then with parts missing. There is a pressure shut off switch. Were is the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Androidhttps://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 19:57, Bob Dunahugh
I know absolutely NOTHING about the 1973 air ride system. So I know I'm LOST. Then with parts missing. There is a pressure shut off switch. Were is the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> I know absolutely NOTHING about the 1973 air ride system. So I know I'm LOST. Then with parts missing. There is a pressure shut off switch. Were
> is the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
Bob,
I pull the circuit breaker at the fuse block when I need to disable the compressor to do stuff.
Here's pictures and words to fill in the blanks:
http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Denney_Power_Level_System.pdf
I think when Jim Bounds has to restore the rear air suspension from mostly scratch, he installs what ends up being a PowerLevel system.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Every day I become more convinced that I am the only person left on the planet that recognizes nonsense for what it is."
> is the manual off switch. The right side controls are not there. This part of this GMC is a mess. Bob Dunahugh
Bob,
I pull the circuit breaker at the fuse block when I need to disable the compressor to do stuff.
Here's pictures and words to fill in the blanks:
http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Denney_Power_Level_System.pdf
I think when Jim Bounds has to restore the rear air suspension from mostly scratch, he installs what ends up being a PowerLevel system.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Every day I become more convinced that I am the only person left on the planet that recognizes nonsense for what it is."
Maybe leaking like crazy. But compressor maybe weak, not getting enough voltage(bad ground/connection). And it might not wver be able to pump to
100+ psi it needs
To shut off. Get a check valve to start and plumb that between the compressor and air tank. Then plumb either an air gauge, or schrader valve on
the tank or somewhere you can check the pressure of air system. Should be 100+ psi.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
100+ psi it needs
To shut off. Get a check valve to start and plumb that between the compressor and air tank. Then plumb either an air gauge, or schrader valve on
the tank or somewhere you can check the pressure of air system. Should be 100+ psi.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
It seems that someone tried to help her by taking the right air ride valve apart. The parts are in a baggy. Don't know if all the parts are there. Maybe the best thing to do is to get another right control valve somewhere. Pull the fuse since she isn't using the system for now. Or just put in a switch to turn the compressor off. Also need to see if the compressor still works. Since it's been running all the time.
Checked the compressor. 80 PSI is all it could get too. It's a Firestone Ride Rite. Are those fixable? Bob Dunahugh
It seems that someone tried to help her by taking the right air ride valve apart. The parts are in a baggy. Don't know if all the parts are there. Maybe the best thing to do is to get another right control valve somewhere. Pull the fuse since she isn't using the system for now. Or just put in a switch to turn the compressor off. Also need to see if the compressor still works. Since it's been running all the time.
It seems that someone tried to help her by taking the right air ride valve apart. The parts are in a baggy. Don't know if all the parts are there. Maybe the best thing to do is to get another right control valve somewhere. Pull the fuse since she isn't using the system for now. Or just put in a switch to turn the compressor off. Also need to see if the compressor still works. Since it's been running all the time.
I would guess not rebuildable.
Odd thing is if it is a 100% duty cycle, it says max pressure 100 psi.
These the specs?
http://riderite.com/-/media/www/riderite/files/Air%20Accessory/Catalogs%20PgsCompressors.pdf
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Odd thing is if it is a 100% duty cycle, it says max pressure 100 psi.
These the specs?
http://riderite.com/-/media/www/riderite/files/Air%20Accessory/Catalogs%20PgsCompressors.pdf
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Bob - the original vales, after 40+ years are crap. I rebuilt mine once. No go. Took the ones out of the transmode. N.G. Rebuilt the transmode
ones. N.G. Then I got smart and put in a set of JR's Powerlevel II's. Problem solved.
I had a Dana Compressor. It did the job, sorta. For yucks I installed a horror freight Viair clone. I rebuilt the Dana. N.G. Ordered the Viair
continuous duty model. Problem solved.
I don't know what Barb's budget is but anything short of what is described above will result in future problems. While you are at it the addiction of
a fuse and relay to get the high current out of the wiring harness and ignition switch is also a must do and a very inexpensive upgrade.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
ones. N.G. Then I got smart and put in a set of JR's Powerlevel II's. Problem solved.
I had a Dana Compressor. It did the job, sorta. For yucks I installed a horror freight Viair clone. I rebuilt the Dana. N.G. Ordered the Viair
continuous duty model. Problem solved.
I don't know what Barb's budget is but anything short of what is described above will result in future problems. While you are at it the addiction of
a fuse and relay to get the high current out of the wiring harness and ignition switch is also a must do and a very inexpensive upgrade.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
Bob, best LOW COST fix is as follows. J.R. Slaten dash valves that replace
the round knob O.E. ones. Then, replace what ever compressor is there with
a 380C ViAir compressor. If the air tank is still good, use it. Make sure
that there is a check valve in line between the compressor and the tank.
The pressure switch should cycle the compressor in the 80 psi /120 psi
range. It is better to only use the ignition key to trigger a relay that
powers the compressor. No heavy currents should flow through through the
column. Check every single air line connection with children's bubble soap,
and show her how to do that. It will become a life's work chasing leaks in
all those hoses and valves. She should know how it is done. Check the
leveling valves and their linkages in the wheel wells of the coach as well
as the bags themselves for leaks. Once you have found and repaired all of
the leaks, you should have a fairly reliable system. If you want to go one
step further, consider installing shut off valves at the bags combined with
Schrader inflation fittings. Then, with only a cigarette lighter powered
air compressor, she will be able to inflate the bags and isolate them with
the shut off valves until the leaks can be found and repaired. 40 year old
plastic lines are like hard drives. They either have already failed, or,
they are about ready to. Thanks for helping keep her on the road. Good on
'ya , mate.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
> I would guess not rebuildable.
>
> Odd thing is if it is a 100% duty cycle, it says max pressure 100 psi.
>
> These the specs?
> http://riderite.com/-/media/www/riderite/files/Air%20Accessory/Catalogs%
> 20PgsCompressors.pdf
>
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
the round knob O.E. ones. Then, replace what ever compressor is there with
a 380C ViAir compressor. If the air tank is still good, use it. Make sure
that there is a check valve in line between the compressor and the tank.
The pressure switch should cycle the compressor in the 80 psi /120 psi
range. It is better to only use the ignition key to trigger a relay that
powers the compressor. No heavy currents should flow through through the
column. Check every single air line connection with children's bubble soap,
and show her how to do that. It will become a life's work chasing leaks in
all those hoses and valves. She should know how it is done. Check the
leveling valves and their linkages in the wheel wells of the coach as well
as the bags themselves for leaks. Once you have found and repaired all of
the leaks, you should have a fairly reliable system. If you want to go one
step further, consider installing shut off valves at the bags combined with
Schrader inflation fittings. Then, with only a cigarette lighter powered
air compressor, she will be able to inflate the bags and isolate them with
the shut off valves until the leaks can be found and repaired. 40 year old
plastic lines are like hard drives. They either have already failed, or,
they are about ready to. Thanks for helping keep her on the road. Good on
'ya , mate.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
> I would guess not rebuildable.
>
> Odd thing is if it is a 100% duty cycle, it says max pressure 100 psi.
>
> These the specs?
> http://riderite.com/-/media/www/riderite/files/Air%20Accessory/Catalogs%
> 20PgsCompressors.pdf
>
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
Best high cost fix? Install my wireless remote controlled air system, and
throw all that other 40 year old crap away. I know she is not made of $$$,
so that is probably not an option for her, but it is available if need be.
Jim Hupy
> Bob, best LOW COST fix is as follows. J.R. Slaten dash valves that replace
> the round knob O.E. ones. Then, replace what ever compressor is there with
> a 380C ViAir compressor. If the air tank is still good, use it. Make sure
> that there is a check valve in line between the compressor and the tank.
> The pressure switch should cycle the compressor in the 80 psi /120 psi
> range. It is better to only use the ignition key to trigger a relay that
> powers the compressor. No heavy currents should flow through through the
> column. Check every single air line connection with children's bubble soap,
> and show her how to do that. It will become a life's work chasing leaks in
> all those hoses and valves. She should know how it is done. Check the
> leveling valves and their linkages in the wheel wells of the coach as well
> as the bags themselves for leaks. Once you have found and repaired all of
> the leaks, you should have a fairly reliable system. If you want to go one
> step further, consider installing shut off valves at the bags combined with
> Schrader inflation fittings. Then, with only a cigarette lighter powered
> air compressor, she will be able to inflate the bags and isolate them with
> the shut off valves until the leaks can be found and repaired. 40 year old
> plastic lines are like hard drives. They either have already failed, or,
> they are about ready to. Thanks for helping keep her on the road. Good on
> 'ya , mate.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>
>
>
>> I would guess not rebuildable.
>>
>> Odd thing is if it is a 100% duty cycle, it says max pressure 100 psi.
>>
>> These the specs?
>> http://riderite.com/-/media/www/riderite/files/Air%20Accesso
>> ry/Catalogs%20PgsCompressors.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
throw all that other 40 year old crap away. I know she is not made of $$$,
so that is probably not an option for her, but it is available if need be.
Jim Hupy
> Bob, best LOW COST fix is as follows. J.R. Slaten dash valves that replace
> the round knob O.E. ones. Then, replace what ever compressor is there with
> a 380C ViAir compressor. If the air tank is still good, use it. Make sure
> that there is a check valve in line between the compressor and the tank.
> The pressure switch should cycle the compressor in the 80 psi /120 psi
> range. It is better to only use the ignition key to trigger a relay that
> powers the compressor. No heavy currents should flow through through the
> column. Check every single air line connection with children's bubble soap,
> and show her how to do that. It will become a life's work chasing leaks in
> all those hoses and valves. She should know how it is done. Check the
> leveling valves and their linkages in the wheel wells of the coach as well
> as the bags themselves for leaks. Once you have found and repaired all of
> the leaks, you should have a fairly reliable system. If you want to go one
> step further, consider installing shut off valves at the bags combined with
> Schrader inflation fittings. Then, with only a cigarette lighter powered
> air compressor, she will be able to inflate the bags and isolate them with
> the shut off valves until the leaks can be found and repaired. 40 year old
> plastic lines are like hard drives. They either have already failed, or,
> they are about ready to. Thanks for helping keep her on the road. Good on
> 'ya , mate.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>
>
>
>> I would guess not rebuildable.
>>
>> Odd thing is if it is a 100% duty cycle, it says max pressure 100 psi.
>>
>> These the specs?
>> http://riderite.com/-/media/www/riderite/files/Air%20Accesso
>> ry/Catalogs%20PgsCompressors.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
> It seems that someone tried to help her by taking the right air ride valve apart. The parts are in a baggy. Don't know if all the parts are there.
> Maybe the best thing to do is to get another right control valve somewhere. Pull the fuse since she isn't using the system for now. Or just put in
> a switch to turn the compressor off. Also need to see if the compressor still works. Since it's been running all the time.
> Checked the compressor. 80 PSI is all it could get too. It's a Firestone Ride Rite. Are those fixable?
Bob,
Clearly she already has a way to isolate the bags. So if the best you can do is get it down to some slow leaks in the system, that is OK for going
down the road, and when she gets where she is going, she can raise or lower the bags to camp and then isolate the bags. When ready to travel, start
the engine and get pressure in the system, un-isolate the bags, set the valves to "travel", and go.
Order valve rebuild kit here:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/953
Order compressor here:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/1050
If it was an OEM compressor and you didn't have to pay the core charge, the Dana compressor would have cost less than the Viair.
If you buy a new compressor and Slaten valves, its not that much more for Jim Hupy's wireless air system.
FWIW, if you change the bags out to SullyBilt or similar, 80 PSI would be enough. But that's $700.
Any SOLID fix is going to be non-trivial dollars. That's probably how she ended up where she is now.
How was she inflating the bags if the compressor only got to 80 PSI? Does she carry a portable 12V compressor?
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Every day I become more convinced that I am the only person left on the planet that recognizes nonsense for what it is."
> Maybe the best thing to do is to get another right control valve somewhere. Pull the fuse since she isn't using the system for now. Or just put in
> a switch to turn the compressor off. Also need to see if the compressor still works. Since it's been running all the time.
> Checked the compressor. 80 PSI is all it could get too. It's a Firestone Ride Rite. Are those fixable?
Bob,
Clearly she already has a way to isolate the bags. So if the best you can do is get it down to some slow leaks in the system, that is OK for going
down the road, and when she gets where she is going, she can raise or lower the bags to camp and then isolate the bags. When ready to travel, start
the engine and get pressure in the system, un-isolate the bags, set the valves to "travel", and go.
Order valve rebuild kit here:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/953
Order compressor here:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/1050
If it was an OEM compressor and you didn't have to pay the core charge, the Dana compressor would have cost less than the Viair.
If you buy a new compressor and Slaten valves, its not that much more for Jim Hupy's wireless air system.
FWIW, if you change the bags out to SullyBilt or similar, 80 PSI would be enough. But that's $700.
Any SOLID fix is going to be non-trivial dollars. That's probably how she ended up where she is now.
How was she inflating the bags if the compressor only got to 80 PSI? Does she carry a portable 12V compressor?
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Every day I become more convinced that I am the only person left on the planet that recognizes nonsense for what it is."
Thank you guys for the info last night, and today. Great info for Barb to decide what to do. So we just had a POW WOW. It comes down too. The system needs a lot. She has a portable ViAir in a bag that she keeps tires, and air bags up. As she has the isolation valves on the bags. So I'm pulling the compressor fuse. Any GMC that I get involved with. Always gets a 6 fuse covered panel installed by the wiper motor. It's energized by a relay. From the main panel in the glove box. That panel is used to power all added loads like the cruise. If she gets a new compressor. That can be plugged into that panel. Plus all this info will help my on the 73 that I'm going to fix up to sell. Bob Dunahugh
________________________________
________________________________
As long as she has the bags isolated and they don't leak drastically, the ViAir is a reasonable solution. The wireless system allows her to do the
same from the front seat. Another ViAir mounted up front, rebuilt leveling valves, a set of J.R.'s valves and a day with a bottle of bubble juice and
some line and fittings will get it back to stock and it will autolevel. I'd leave it as it is and acquire the parts to redo it to stock as time and
budget permit. With the parts and a day at Bean Station, it should be made to work correctly. With good valves and a good compressor, the system
doesn't give a lot of trouble.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
same from the front seat. Another ViAir mounted up front, rebuilt leveling valves, a set of J.R.'s valves and a day with a bottle of bubble juice and
some line and fittings will get it back to stock and it will autolevel. I'd leave it as it is and acquire the parts to redo it to stock as time and
budget permit. With the parts and a day at Bean Station, it should be made to work correctly. With good valves and a good compressor, the system
doesn't give a lot of trouble.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Or wait until Keith Vasilakes MicroLevel is ready, it will have a feedback
loop to control ride height like the OEM system.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6645/medium/CAM00345.jpg
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Johnny
Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 7:51 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Barb's air compresor runs all the time that the ign is
on in her 73.
As long as she has the bags isolated and they don't leak drastically, the
ViAir is a reasonable solution. The wireless system allows her to do the
same from the front seat. Another ViAir mounted up front, rebuilt leveling
valves, a set of J.R.'s valves and a day with a bottle of bubble juice and
some line and fittings will get it back to stock and it will autolevel. I'd
leave it as it is and acquire the parts to redo it to stock as time and
budget permit. With the parts and a day at Bean Station, it should be made
to work correctly. With good valves and a good compressor, the system
doesn't give a lot of trouble.
--johnny
loop to control ride height like the OEM system.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6645/medium/CAM00345.jpg
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Johnny
Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 7:51 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Barb's air compresor runs all the time that the ign is
on in her 73.
As long as she has the bags isolated and they don't leak drastically, the
ViAir is a reasonable solution. The wireless system allows her to do the
same from the front seat. Another ViAir mounted up front, rebuilt leveling
valves, a set of J.R.'s valves and a day with a bottle of bubble juice and
some line and fittings will get it back to stock and it will autolevel. I'd
leave it as it is and acquire the parts to redo it to stock as time and
budget permit. With the parts and a day at Bean Station, it should be made
to work correctly. With good valves and a good compressor, the system
doesn't give a lot of trouble.
--johnny
While you already made your decision on what to do, I'll still make a few comments.
I really feel you should strive for a fully operational automatic leveling air system. Anything other than that is a compromise that causes minor
handling problems as weight or wind direction and velocity change.
As far as only reaching 80 PSI, you need to figure out why it only makes 80 PSI. A small leak in the system can cause this. The last time that I saw
one this way it was caused by a cracked air fitting. The compressor was just fine. I would temporarily seal off that compressor and attach a
pressure gauge to it. Then them let it pump up and see if it can reach 100 or 120 PSI. If it can then tje air pressure switch should shut off and I
would declare the compressor good. If it does shut off you can then explore your options to repair or replace it.
Right now you are jury rigging around the failure and you do not even know what the failure is that you are attempting to bypass.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
I really feel you should strive for a fully operational automatic leveling air system. Anything other than that is a compromise that causes minor
handling problems as weight or wind direction and velocity change.
As far as only reaching 80 PSI, you need to figure out why it only makes 80 PSI. A small leak in the system can cause this. The last time that I saw
one this way it was caused by a cracked air fitting. The compressor was just fine. I would temporarily seal off that compressor and attach a
pressure gauge to it. Then them let it pump up and see if it can reach 100 or 120 PSI. If it can then tje air pressure switch should shut off and I
would declare the compressor good. If it does shut off you can then explore your options to repair or replace it.
Right now you are jury rigging around the failure and you do not even know what the failure is that you are attempting to bypass.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
The delay in this response is regrettable, but it was unavoidable. Today will be largely video editing to be presented Tuesday.
Barbara is not a bad case for the uncontrolled wireless system. Her coach is a 73 and so is light. She travels alone so nobody changes places when
the coach is moving. She does not push the tank range. She does not go places that the handling is critical. These are the things that the OE Power
Level system manages.
When GMT&B sold Transmode coaches to limo service people, they were supplied without the suspension control switches at a savings of several hundred
invoice dollars. I am still surprised that they never allowed this delete in the "camper versions". That would be unless there was a reason.
The Power Level system is not nearly the problem that some people would have you believe.
There are four common mode failures in the system and most are easily diagnosed.
1 - The pump is shot so it never gets to pressure or takes forever to get there.
2 - The system in leaking at one of the manual valves. (Power Level only)
3 - One of the ride height control valves is leaking.
4 - One of the OE crimp air line fittings has failed.
The pump is easy to diagnose, screw a pressure gauge onto the T that is the outlet and run the pump. It should get to 120 almost instantly. If it
does not, rebuild or replace the pump.
The two modes of leakage at the manual control valves are simple to diagnose. Pull the valve panel out and get the valves loose. Put pressure on the
system and run bubble stuff on the valves. Be sure to get all around the body joint and on all three of each valves push stems. The stem O-rings can
leak, but the body joint had been my big problem and if anybody cares I can describe a not to difficult fix that has been good for our coach for 8
years and 50+K.
The ride height valves can be simple. Look for air venting the exhaust port when the system should be stable. If this is happening, it does not
matter if it is the fill or the dump valve that is bad, replace the part. New and rebuild are available.
The system was unfortunately assembled with plastic crimp fittings. In our tenure as an owner three of these have failed usually with body cracks.
That is handy that way because if you can get the system pressure up at all, the failed fitting will whistle loudly enough for your wife to hear and
point it out to you. The fitting can be removed by using a file to cut the crimp ring and then no tubing length is lost.
As it is right now, our coach will sit at ride height for weeks at a time, but the compressor may and vacuum pump will both start with the ignition.
I am going to search out the new leak in the air system when I feel a lot like doing so. I will do this by isolating parts of the system and watching
for pressure decay.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Barbara is not a bad case for the uncontrolled wireless system. Her coach is a 73 and so is light. She travels alone so nobody changes places when
the coach is moving. She does not push the tank range. She does not go places that the handling is critical. These are the things that the OE Power
Level system manages.
When GMT&B sold Transmode coaches to limo service people, they were supplied without the suspension control switches at a savings of several hundred
invoice dollars. I am still surprised that they never allowed this delete in the "camper versions". That would be unless there was a reason.
The Power Level system is not nearly the problem that some people would have you believe.
There are four common mode failures in the system and most are easily diagnosed.
1 - The pump is shot so it never gets to pressure or takes forever to get there.
2 - The system in leaking at one of the manual valves. (Power Level only)
3 - One of the ride height control valves is leaking.
4 - One of the OE crimp air line fittings has failed.
The pump is easy to diagnose, screw a pressure gauge onto the T that is the outlet and run the pump. It should get to 120 almost instantly. If it
does not, rebuild or replace the pump.
The two modes of leakage at the manual control valves are simple to diagnose. Pull the valve panel out and get the valves loose. Put pressure on the
system and run bubble stuff on the valves. Be sure to get all around the body joint and on all three of each valves push stems. The stem O-rings can
leak, but the body joint had been my big problem and if anybody cares I can describe a not to difficult fix that has been good for our coach for 8
years and 50+K.
The ride height valves can be simple. Look for air venting the exhaust port when the system should be stable. If this is happening, it does not
matter if it is the fill or the dump valve that is bad, replace the part. New and rebuild are available.
The system was unfortunately assembled with plastic crimp fittings. In our tenure as an owner three of these have failed usually with body cracks.
That is handy that way because if you can get the system pressure up at all, the failed fitting will whistle loudly enough for your wife to hear and
point it out to you. The fitting can be removed by using a file to cut the crimp ring and then no tubing length is lost.
As it is right now, our coach will sit at ride height for weeks at a time, but the compressor may and vacuum pump will both start with the ignition.
I am going to search out the new leak in the air system when I feel a lot like doing so. I will do this by isolating parts of the system and watching
for pressure decay.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
I had a spare valve that I tried to give to Dave at the last GMCMI rally. He said that he is not rebuilding them any more. So buying new is your
only option. Jim K. stocks made in Ohio (not Chinese crap) new ones and they were about the same price as Dave's rebuilt ones a few years back.
Just go to Jim K. at Applied GMC if you need one or two.
One comment on the plastic fittings. I got fed up with them years ago and simply replaced all of them. At the time they were $1.50 each from my
local auto parts store or $3.00 each from NAPA. Assume they have gone up a little but it still will not cost you much to replace all of them. They
are make by Parker and available in straight or 90 degree flavors.
A usual Jim K. probably also has them. I have never asked, but he stocks just about everything GMC related except a 30 mpg carburetor.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
only option. Jim K. stocks made in Ohio (not Chinese crap) new ones and they were about the same price as Dave's rebuilt ones a few years back.
Just go to Jim K. at Applied GMC if you need one or two.
One comment on the plastic fittings. I got fed up with them years ago and simply replaced all of them. At the time they were $1.50 each from my
local auto parts store or $3.00 each from NAPA. Assume they have gone up a little but it still will not cost you much to replace all of them. They
are make by Parker and available in straight or 90 degree flavors.
A usual Jim K. probably also has them. I have never asked, but he stocks just about everything GMC related except a 30 mpg carburetor.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
All of this just goes away when
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/wireless.html
> I had a spare valve that I tried to give to Dave at the last GMCMI rally.
> He said that he is not rebuilding them any more. So buying new is your
> only option. Jim K. stocks made in Ohio (not Chinese crap) new ones and
> they were about the same price as Dave's rebuilt ones a few years back.
>
> Just go to Jim K. at Applied GMC if you need one or two.
>
> One comment on the plastic fittings. I got fed up with them years ago and
> simply replaced all of them. At the time they were $1.50 each from my
> local auto parts store or $3.00 each from NAPA. Assume they have gone up
> a little but it still will not cost you much to replace all of them. They
> are make by Parker and available in straight or 90 degree flavors.
>
> A usual Jim K. probably also has them. I have never asked, but he stocks
> just about everything GMC related except a 30 mpg carburetor.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/wireless.html
> I had a spare valve that I tried to give to Dave at the last GMCMI rally.
> He said that he is not rebuilding them any more. So buying new is your
> only option. Jim K. stocks made in Ohio (not Chinese crap) new ones and
> they were about the same price as Dave's rebuilt ones a few years back.
>
> Just go to Jim K. at Applied GMC if you need one or two.
>
> One comment on the plastic fittings. I got fed up with them years ago and
> simply replaced all of them. At the time they were $1.50 each from my
> local auto parts store or $3.00 each from NAPA. Assume they have gone up
> a little but it still will not cost you much to replace all of them. They
> are make by Parker and available in straight or 90 degree flavors.
>
> A usual Jim K. probably also has them. I have never asked, but he stocks
> just about everything GMC related except a 30 mpg carburetor.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> The system was unfortunately assembled with plastic crimp fittings. In our tenure as an owner three of these have failed usually with body
> cracks. That is handy that way because if you can get the system pressure up at all, the failed fitting will whistle loudly enough for your wife to
> hear and point it out to you. The fitting can be removed by using a file to cut the crimp ring and then no tubing length is lost.
>
> Matt
All the fittings on my '74 are brass. I just figured all '73 & 74's had brass fittings. The '75 has the plastic fittings and the are a bunch of crap
ompared to the brass.
(Note the use of the word "figured" instead of "ASSume")
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
> cracks. That is handy that way because if you can get the system pressure up at all, the failed fitting will whistle loudly enough for your wife to
> hear and point it out to you. The fitting can be removed by using a file to cut the crimp ring and then no tubing length is lost.
>
> Matt
All the fittings on my '74 are brass. I just figured all '73 & 74's had brass fittings. The '75 has the plastic fittings and the are a bunch of crap
ompared to the brass.
(Note the use of the word "figured" instead of "ASSume")
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
