Ball Joints

[sandy wilson]

I too am going to take apart the front end to rebuild over the winter.
The repair manual states that 1/8 th. inch of play can exist on the
bottom joint and still be in spec. When I drive my unit there is a
"clunk" that comes thru the steering wheel. I strongly suspect that it
is from the worn ball joints. I have checked for wear and can see the
play, but have no tools to measure. My past experience with steering
components has been that if you can see play then it is replacement
time.How much play would be in a new ball joint. I realize that there
has to be a "bit" of running clearance on any part, but I do not agree
with the allowable 1/8 th. inch as the repair manual states.
Any comments from those that have replaced the ball joints?

Regards, Gil

 

[gene]

Be sure your read my web page on lower control arm failure.

DO NOT CHANGE your ball joints unless you need to. Replacing the ball
joints has lead to many lower control arm failures. Be sure and read this
section

gene

>I too am going to take apart the front end to rebuild over the winter.
>The repair manual states that 1/8 th. inch of play can exist on the
>bottom joint and still be in spec. When I drive my unit there is a
>"clunk" that comes thru the steering wheel. I strongly suspect that it
>is from the worn ball joints. I have checked for wear and can see the
>play, but have no tools to measure. My past experience with steering
>components has been that if you can see play then it is replacement
>time.How much play would be in a new ball joint. I realize that there
>has to be a "bit" of running clearance on any part, but I do not agree
>with the allowable 1/8 th. inch as the repair manual states.
>Any comments from those that have replaced the ball joints?
>
>Regards, Gil
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
http://www.california.com/~eagle/

 

[steven d. ferguson]

My past experience with steering components has been that if you can see
play then it is replacement
time.

That's my line of thinking too Gil. You might want to check your pitman
arm, in just 39,000 miles mine had worn the hole oblong & I was getting
a bit of a clunk that I could feel in the steering wheel. Note also
that by the time this coach had LESS than 39,000 miles on it, a PO had
replaced the lower ball joints. Incorrectly too, I might add. Did a
crappy job of drilling the rivets out, installed the 5/16 bolts nuts out
(which enabled them to get rapped by the steering) & wound up cracking
the tip of the control arm. I'm glad I read all the postings on this
common error. I wound up switching to 3/8 bolts & for good measure I
replaced the hub to knuckle bolts with Allens to make them easier to
remove in the future.
HTH
Steve Ferguson
San Diego

 

[sandy wilson]

Thanks Steve for the ball joint info. A PO has also installed bolted in
ball joints and I want to replace and inspect the control arms for
cracks. That is why I want to unload the bars and remove the control
arms.
I will check all the suspension for wear but pay special attention to
the pitman arm.
Does anyone have the info on a site showing or describing the beefing up
that is done to the control arms?
Anyone else think the 1/8th. inch play as described in the service
manual is excessive?

Thanks Rick for the been-there, done-that info on the torsion bars. I
will scout around for a suitable tool to properly unload the bars.

Regards, Gil

 

[chuck will]

Hi. I got my axle out on the left side because the outer boot was severely
damaged when I got home and noticed it when I was changing the oil.. I don't know
how it happened, maybe picked up a a rock on the way home. The little of the
grease that remained inside the boot was pretty clean but all of it had pretty
much been thrown onto the inside of the wheel etc. While checking the other
parts. I noticed there was a cut/crack in the upper ball joint rubber boot. Does
this require a new unit, control arm etc.? I can read books but see nothing in
there about the rubber cover.. It looks like it is pressed onto the ball joint.
I guess I could replace it but not sure it is the right thing to do. The lower
left ball joint and boot looks fine and the lower control arm appears to be free
of cracks. I am not going to take it all off to magna flux either. However, it
does look like a good time to maybe paint stuff under there. Chuck

>
> play, but have no tools to measure. >>
>
> Gil - All it takes is a dial indicator. You don't even remove the tire or
> wheel. If you have the Maintenance Manual check in section 3A. There is a
> picture and a small paragraph.
> BALL JOINT CHECKS
> VERTICAL CHECKS
> 1. Raise the vehicle and position floor stands under the left and right
> lower control arms as near as possible to each lower ball joint. Vehicle
> must be stable and should not rock on the floor stands. Lower front hoist.
>
> 2. Position dial indicator as shown in fig. 20.
>
> 3. Place pry bar as shown in fig. 23 and pry down on bar. [fig.23 shows
> prying up on the outer race of the CV joint]. Care must be used so that
> drive axle seal is not damaged. Reading must not exceed .125" (1/8").
>
> Since you are measuring the up and down movement of the wheel, if you don't
> have a dial indicator, you could use a tape measure or measuring stick with an
> 1/8" marking, but it would be less accurate. Since 1/8" is a go - no go
> measurement an approximation should work.
>
> >From my experience and from info from other owners, it looks as if the top
> ball joints rarely wear while the bottom ones do.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM