bad fan clutch???

R

richard waters

New member
Feb 8, 1999
1,236
0
0
> You can't overfill it. You have an expansion tank that keeps the
> radiator full. When it heats up and the coolant in the radiator
> expands it goes into the plastic bottle. when it cools, it draws
> coolant from the plastic bottle back into the radiator. If it is
> coughing up fluid it is boiling and pushing fluid past the radiator
> cap. Pressure on the system helps keep it from boiling out. Check
> the pressure cap and you'll probably find that it needs replacement.
> They usually only last a year or so.
>
> Also, don't be lulled into a sense of security that the gauge never
> goes over 1/2. Read my posting from yesterday. You could be at 250
> degrees and boiling over at 1/2 gauge with the original temperature
> sender.
>
> Make sure that your fan belts are tight. You also might have a bad fan clutch.
>
> Emery Stora

Emery and who ever else cares to respond,
I have a panel from Custom Instrument Panels and therefore I believe that I have a
reasonably accurate water temp gage. Most of the time it runs at 190 degrees (I
have a 190 degree thermostat) but when I start driving at 65+ the temp will go to
around 200-210 and the oil temp will go from 220 to about 250. I don't like
that! So I usually slow back down to 60 and everything goes back to what seems to
me to be normal.

I wonder if I have a bad fan clutch. I never hear it engage when the temps go up.
How does one tell if they have a bad fan clutch?

Or are my temperatures normal for that operating mode and I should worry more about
the extra gas I'm burning by going faster?

By the way I have close to 140,000 miles on the original engine.

Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI
 
>
>
>Emery and who ever else cares to respond,
>I have a panel from Custom Instrument Panels and therefore I believe
>that I have a
>reasonably accurate water temp gage. Most of the time it runs at
>190 degrees (I
>have a 190 degree thermostat) but when I start driving at 65+ the
>temp will go to
>around 200-210 and the oil temp will go from 220 to about 250. I don't like
>that! So I usually slow back down to 60 and everything goes back
>to what seems to
>me to be normal.
>
>I wonder if I have a bad fan clutch. I never hear it engage when
>the temps go up.
>How does one tell if they have a bad fan clutch?
>
>Or are my temperatures normal for that operating mode and I should
>worry more about
>the extra gas I'm burning by going faster?
>
>By the way I have close to 140,000 miles on the original engine.
>
>Richard Waters
>'76 PB, Troy, MI

Richard - if you've never heard the fan clutch come on, it's most
likely bad. I have a digipanel and my water and oil temperatures are
usually close to the same. With that much mileage your oil pump
might be getting worn a bit and you might not be circulating as much
oil as you should. What weight oil are you using?

On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get overheating.
Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced the
fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However, I
wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it had a lot
of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went to a
Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought one and
replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took me
about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward toward
the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this procedure to
install the new one. This immediately took care of my overheating
problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to normal.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
> On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get overheating.
> Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced the
> fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However, I
> wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it had a lot
> of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went to a
> Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought one and
> replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
> without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took me
> about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward toward
> the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this procedure to
> install the new one. This immediately took care of my overheating
> problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to normal.
>
> Emery Stora

Emery,
Thanks for the very prompt response!

I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in that nothing has to
be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the local discount
parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99. Does that sound
about right?
Richard
 
Check out this site in regards to Fan Clutch (The Wiley Fan Clutch)
Good explanation on how a fan clutch works.
http://www.thepowershop.com/frameset.htm
Marlene Meineken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Waters
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: bad fan clutch???

> > You can't overfill it. You have an expansion tank that keeps the
> > radiator full. When it heats up and the coolant in the radiator
> > expands it goes into the plastic bottle. when it cools, it draws
> > coolant from the plastic bottle back into the radiator. If it is
> > coughing up fluid it is boiling and pushing fluid past the radiator
> > cap. Pressure on the system helps keep it from boiling out. Check
> > the pressure cap and you'll probably find that it needs replacement.
> > They usually only last a year or so.
> >
> > Also, don't be lulled into a sense of security that the gauge never
> > goes over 1/2. Read my posting from yesterday. You could be at 250
> > degrees and boiling over at 1/2 gauge with the original temperature
> > sender.
> >
> > Make sure that your fan belts are tight. You also might have a bad fan
clutch.
> >
> > Emery Stora
>
> Emery and who ever else cares to respond,
> I have a panel from Custom Instrument Panels and therefore I believe that
I have a
> reasonably accurate water temp gage. Most of the time it runs at 190
degrees (I
> have a 190 degree thermostat) but when I start driving at 65+ the temp
will go to
> around 200-210 and the oil temp will go from 220 to about 250. I don't
like
> that! So I usually slow back down to 60 and everything goes back to what
seems to
> me to be normal.
>
> I wonder if I have a bad fan clutch. I never hear it engage when the
temps go up.
> How does one tell if they have a bad fan clutch?
>
> Or are my temperatures normal for that operating mode and I should worry
more about
> the extra gas I'm burning by going faster?
>
> By the way I have close to 140,000 miles on the original engine.
>
> Richard Waters
> '76 PB, Troy, MI
>
>
>
 
>
>Emery,
>Thanks for the very prompt response!
>
>I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in that
>nothing has to
>be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the
>local discount
>parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99. Does
>that sound
>about right?
>Richard

It will fit right in. That is a good price. I paid about $70 at Pep Boys.

Emery
 
remember the temp sender is what determines the range of your dash temp
gauge...not the gauge.

read this section to see if your fan is working.

http://www.california.com/~eagle/engine.html

gene

>> You can't overfill it. You have an expansion tank that keeps the
>> radiator full. When it heats up and the coolant in the radiator
>> expands it goes into the plastic bottle. when it cools, it draws
>> coolant from the plastic bottle back into the radiator. If it is
>> coughing up fluid it is boiling and pushing fluid past the radiator
>> cap. Pressure on the system helps keep it from boiling out. Check
>> the pressure cap and you'll probably find that it needs replacement.
>> They usually only last a year or so.
>>
>> Also, don't be lulled into a sense of security that the gauge never
>> goes over 1/2. Read my posting from yesterday. You could be at 250
>> degrees and boiling over at 1/2 gauge with the original temperature
>> sender.
>>
>> Make sure that your fan belts are tight. You also might have a bad fan
clutch.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>
>Emery and who ever else cares to respond,
>I have a panel from Custom Instrument Panels and therefore I believe that
I have a
>reasonably accurate water temp gage. Most of the time it runs at 190
degrees (I
>have a 190 degree thermostat) but when I start driving at 65+ the temp
will go to
>around 200-210 and the oil temp will go from 220 to about 250. I don't like
>that! So I usually slow back down to 60 and everything goes back to what
seems to
>me to be normal.
>
>I wonder if I have a bad fan clutch. I never hear it engage when the
temps go up.
>How does one tell if they have a bad fan clutch?
>
>Or are my temperatures normal for that operating mode and I should worry
more about
>the extra gas I'm burning by going faster?
>
>By the way I have close to 140,000 miles on the original engine.
>
>Richard Waters
>'76 PB, Troy, MI
>
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
Richard.. I bought a 2797 about a year ago, Paid more than what you
were quoted tho so price seems ok. Seems like some had problems with
different size shaft that clutch mounts on. Check that for fit. Rest is
no-brainer.
Bill

On Wed, 31 May 2000 11:03:49 -0400 Richard Waters
writes:

>
> > On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get
> overheating.
> > Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced the
> > fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However, I
> > wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it had a
> lot
> > of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went to
> a
> > Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought one
> and
> > replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
> > without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took me
> > about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward toward
> > the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this procedure
> to
> > install the new one. This immediately took care of my overheating
> > problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to normal.
> >
> > Emery Stora
>
> Emery,
> Thanks for the very prompt response!
>
> I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in that
> nothing has to
> be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the
> local discount
> parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99. Does
> that sound
> about right?
> Richard
>
 
Richard,
Your description fits exactly what was happening to me. After the usual
cooling system checks I decided to check timing. Guess what. The vacuum
lines had been switched at the TVS and I was getting no vacuum advance.
Fixed that and now the temperatures are normal at 70.
Bob McLaughlin

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-gmcmotorhome
[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Richard Waters
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 9:26 AM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: Re: GMC: bad fan clutch???

> You can't overfill it. You have an expansion tank that keeps the
> radiator full. When it heats up and the coolant in the radiator
> expands it goes into the plastic bottle. when it cools, it draws
> coolant from the plastic bottle back into the radiator. If it is
> coughing up fluid it is boiling and pushing fluid past the radiator
> cap. Pressure on the system helps keep it from boiling out. Check
> the pressure cap and you'll probably find that it needs replacement.
> They usually only last a year or so.
>
> Also, don't be lulled into a sense of security that the gauge never
> goes over 1/2. Read my posting from yesterday. You could be at 250
> degrees and boiling over at 1/2 gauge with the original temperature
> sender.
>
> Make sure that your fan belts are tight. You also might have a bad fan
clutch.
>
> Emery Stora

Emery and who ever else cares to respond,
I have a panel from Custom Instrument Panels and therefore I believe that I
have a
reasonably accurate water temp gage. Most of the time it runs at 190
degrees (I
have a 190 degree thermostat) but when I start driving at 65+ the temp will
go to
around 200-210 and the oil temp will go from 220 to about 250. I don't like
that! So I usually slow back down to 60 and everything goes back to what
seems to
me to be normal.

I wonder if I have a bad fan clutch. I never hear it engage when the temps
go up.
How does one tell if they have a bad fan clutch?

Or are my temperatures normal for that operating mode and I should worry
more about
the extra gas I'm burning by going faster?

By the way I have close to 140,000 miles on the original engine.

Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI
 
Bill,
I too remembered that there was some discussion about different size shafts
last year. I hope I don't run into that problem. I don't need for this to
be a major project.

I also wonder if there is a 2797 and a 2797HD. Maybe the price I got was
for the light duty version.

I called Cinnabar to get a price as a frame of reference. The standard duty
fan clutch is now $86.55 and heavy duty is $144.25. Lorraine at Cinnabar
said most of the ones they sell are of the heavy duty variety.

Richard

> Richard.. I bought a 2797 about a year ago, Paid more than what you
> were quoted tho so price seems ok. Seems like some had problems with
> different size shaft that clutch mounts on. Check that for fit. Rest is
> no-brainer.
> Bill
>
> On Wed, 31 May 2000 11:03:49 -0400 Richard Waters

> >
> > > On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get
> > overheating.
> > > Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced the
> > > fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However, I
> > > wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it had a
> > lot
> > > of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went to
> > a
> > > Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought one
> > and
> > > replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
> > > without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took me
> > > about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward toward
> > > the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this procedure
> > to
> > > install the new one. This immediately took care of my overheating
> > > problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to normal.
> > >
> > > Emery Stora
> >
> > Emery,
> > Thanks for the very prompt response!
> >
> > I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in that
> > nothing has to
> > be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the
> > local discount
> > parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99. Does
> > that sound
> > about right?
> > Richard
> >
 
>
>I also wonder if there is a 2797 and a 2797HD. Maybe the price I got was
>for the light duty version.
>

hayden only has one 2797 and that is a heavy duty. Their catalog
shows that it is for truck and RV applications.

It works well on the GMC.

If there is a different size hub on your GMC it is because someone
has put a different size water pump on it.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
Bob,
I guess I better check out the vacuum lines just to make sure.

I had all that stuff checked out (I thought anyway) by Cinnabar last Spring when
I had the carburetor recalibrated. I had that done because I had 2 bad exhaust
manifolds and they said part of the problem is too lean of a mixture due to
reformulated gas. They discovered one of the vacuum lines was split as well.
Richard

> Richard,
> Your description fits exactly what was happening to me. After the usual
> cooling system checks I decided to check timing. Guess what. The vacuum
> lines had been switched at the TVS and I was getting no vacuum advance.
> Fixed that and now the temperatures are normal at 70.
> Bob McLaughlin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Richard Waters
> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 9:26 AM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: bad fan clutch???
>
> > You can't overfill it. You have an expansion tank that keeps the
> > radiator full. When it heats up and the coolant in the radiator
> > expands it goes into the plastic bottle. when it cools, it draws
> > coolant from the plastic bottle back into the radiator. If it is
> > coughing up fluid it is boiling and pushing fluid past the radiator
> > cap. Pressure on the system helps keep it from boiling out. Check
> > the pressure cap and you'll probably find that it needs replacement.
> > They usually only last a year or so.
> >
> > Also, don't be lulled into a sense of security that the gauge never
> > goes over 1/2. Read my posting from yesterday. You could be at 250
> > degrees and boiling over at 1/2 gauge with the original temperature
> > sender.
> >
> > Make sure that your fan belts are tight. You also might have a bad fan
> clutch.
> >
> > Emery Stora
>
> Emery and who ever else cares to respond,
> I have a panel from Custom Instrument Panels and therefore I believe that I
> have a
> reasonably accurate water temp gage. Most of the time it runs at 190
> degrees (I
> have a 190 degree thermostat) but when I start driving at 65+ the temp will
> go to
> around 200-210 and the oil temp will go from 220 to about 250. I don't like
> that! So I usually slow back down to 60 and everything goes back to what
> seems to
> me to be normal.
>
> I wonder if I have a bad fan clutch. I never hear it engage when the temps
> go up.
> How does one tell if they have a bad fan clutch?
>
> Or are my temperatures normal for that operating mode and I should worry
> more about
> the extra gas I'm burning by going faster?
>
> By the way I have close to 140,000 miles on the original engine.
>
> Richard Waters
> '76 PB, Troy, MI
 
If you have a PEP boys in your area they handle hayden fan clutches.

>
> I can't find the Hayden locally, does some one have a source I can order
> from.
>
> Checker sells Imperial for $35
> Carquest sells murrey/4 seasons for $36
> Napa wanted to sell me electric or a flexfan?
>
> >From: Richard Waters
> >Reply-To: gmcmotorhome
> >To: gmcmotorhome
> >Subject: Re: GMC: bad fan clutch???
> >Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:03:49 -0400
> >

> >
> > > On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get overheating.
> > > Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced the
> > > fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However, I
> > > wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it had a lot
> > > of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went to a
> > > Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought one and
> > > replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
> > > without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took me
> > > about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward toward
> > > the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this procedure to
> > > install the new one. This immediately took care of my overheating
> > > problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to normal.
> > >
> > > Emery Stora
> >
> >Emery,
> >Thanks for the very prompt response!
> >
> >I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in that nothing
> >has to
> >be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the local
> >discount
> >parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99. Does that
> >sound
> >about right?
> >Richard
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

- --
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLakers
77 Eleganza II
Michigan
 
Richard, I purchased a 2797 yesterday at Autozone. It was a severe duty
as opposed to heavy duty. It is the same one I have on my 76 edgemont.
this one is going on my 75 Eleganza. It has 5/8 center hole and cost me
85.00. If cinnabar says they sell more heavy duty ones, someone must be
using them. Mine seems to be adequate.
Bill

On Wed, 31 May 2000 17:43:38 -0400 Richard Waters
writes:
> Bill,
> I too remembered that there was some discussion about different size
> shafts
> last year. I hope I don't run into that problem. I don't need for
> this to
> be a major project.
>
> I also wonder if there is a 2797 and a 2797HD. Maybe the price I
> got was
> for the light duty version.
>
> I called Cinnabar to get a price as a frame of reference. The
> standard duty
> fan clutch is now $86.55 and heavy duty is $144.25. Lorraine at
> Cinnabar
> said most of the ones they sell are of the heavy duty variety.
>
> Richard
>

>
> > Richard.. I bought a 2797 about a year ago, Paid more than what
> you
> > were quoted tho so price seems ok. Seems like some had problems
> with
> > different size shaft that clutch mounts on. Check that for fit.
> Rest is
> > no-brainer.
> > Bill
> >
> > On Wed, 31 May 2000 11:03:49 -0400 Richard Waters
>

> > >
> > > > On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get
> > > overheating.
> > > > Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced
> the
> > > > fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However,
> I
> > > > wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it
> had a
> > > lot
> > > > of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went
> to
> > > a
> > > > Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought
> one
> > > and
> > > > replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
> > > > without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took
> me
> > > > about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward
> toward
> > > > the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this
> procedure
> > > to
> > > > install the new one. This immediately took care of my
> overheating
> > > > problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to
> normal.
> > > >
> > > > Emery Stora
> > >
> > > Emery,
> > > Thanks for the very prompt response!
> > >
> > > I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in
> that
> > > nothing has to
> > > be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the
> > > local discount
> > > parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99.
> Does
> > > that sound
> > > about right?
> > > Richard
> > >
>
 
I used the one from cinnibar and it has worked great for three years.
al

> Richard, I purchased a 2797 yesterday at Autozone. It was a severe duty
> as opposed to heavy duty. It is the same one I have on my 76 edgemont.
> this one is going on my 75 Eleganza. It has 5/8 center hole and cost me
> 85.00. If cinnabar says they sell more heavy duty ones, someone must be
> using them. Mine seems to be adequate.
> Bill
>
> On Wed, 31 May 2000 17:43:38 -0400 Richard Waters

> > Bill,
> > I too remembered that there was some discussion about different size
> > shafts
> > last year. I hope I don't run into that problem. I don't need for
> > this to
> > be a major project.
> >
> > I also wonder if there is a 2797 and a 2797HD. Maybe the price I
> > got was
> > for the light duty version.
> >
> > I called Cinnabar to get a price as a frame of reference. The
> > standard duty
> > fan clutch is now $86.55 and heavy duty is $144.25. Lorraine at
> > Cinnabar
> > said most of the ones they sell are of the heavy duty variety.
> >
> > Richard
> >

> >
> > > Richard.. I bought a 2797 about a year ago, Paid more than what
> > you
> > > were quoted tho so price seems ok. Seems like some had problems
> > with
> > > different size shaft that clutch mounts on. Check that for fit.
> > Rest is
> > > no-brainer.
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > On Wed, 31 May 2000 11:03:49 -0400 Richard Waters
> >

> > > >
> > > > > On my trip to Rayne this last Feb/March I started to get
> > > > overheating.
> > > > > Both the water and oil temps went up. Jim Bounds had replaced
> > the
> > > > > fan clutch in Jan. 1998 so I figured that it was OK. However,
> > I
> > > > > wasn't hearing it coming on. I examined it and saw that it
> > had a
> > > > lot
> > > > > of fluid marks on the inside and seemed to be leaking. I went
> > to
> > > > a
> > > > > Pep Boys store where they carried the Hayden 2797 so I bought
> > one
> > > > and
> > > > > replaced it. You can replace it while leaning over the engine
> > > > > without having to take off the fan shroud or any belts. Took
> > me
> > > > > about 20 minutes. Detach the fan blade and lean it forward
> > toward
> > > > > the radiator then remove the clutch. Just reverse this
> > procedure
> > > > to
> > > > > install the new one. This immediately took care of my
> > overheating
> > > > > problem. Both the water and oil temperatures returned to
> > normal.
> > > > >
> > > > > Emery Stora
> > > >
> > > > Emery,
> > > > Thanks for the very prompt response!
> > > >
> > > > I assume the Hayden 2797 is a "plug and play" replacement in
> > that
> > > > nothing has to
> > > > be modified in order to make it fit. I made a quick call to the
> > > > local discount
> > > > parts house and the 2797 is a stock item and sells for $59.99.
> > Does
> > > > that sound
> > > > about right?
> > > > Richard
> > > >
> >
 
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