Attaching refrigerator access panel

PeteSr

Active member
May 10, 2020
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Hi Folks,

I am trying to attach a metal refrigerator access panel to my GMC. I bought one from Applied and it is just a metal stamping. I’ve asked for instructions of some kind as to how to attach/mount this thing and they sent me a 17 second video that isn’t really helping.
Does anyone have instructions or a resource for how to attach this to the coach?

Here’s the front & back of it.

Pete P.
1978 Eleganza

P.S. Or is there another source of this that offers a more complete product?
 

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It is supposed to fit into the existing frame built for it behind the frig. If yours has been removed, you'll have get that as well.
Please show where you intend to put it.

Hi Billy,
Thanks for the reply. I have had several posts relating to this in the exterior forum. At sometime in the past someone just hacked a hole in the side of the coach in the area behind the fridge and used a Norcold plastic panel to cover it. That panel has cracked with age. The replacement Norcold panel is different size and does not fit. So, I am trying to use the aluminum one from Applied. The steel one in the picture was mistakenly sent to me. Turns out they no longer stock the aluminum one, but the guys there have been helpful and searched in their warehouse and found a last used aluminum panel that they are sending me. That's the back story. Here is a picture of the opening. I have squared it off and stripped the paint around it. There's no structure behind the opening - the old Norcold panel had a frame that was held in with clamps.

If you know of a source that sells a metal (preferably aluminum) panel that includes a frame so I don't have to fabricate one, I would appreciate an help. I am trying to get this coach to a paint shop and this the show-stopper.
 

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Hi Billy,
Well the GMC (wife is still working on a name for it/her/him) is headed to the paint shop today. I have not completed the repair of the hole for the refrigerator access panel yet. But, thanks to the various members here on the forums I do have a solution that should work out very nicely. I am manufacturing an aviation type doubler plate and a removable louvered skin. When complete and painted it will match the factory upper louvers. Here is a picture of the doubler plate not yet installed. I still need to de-bur it and mount it externally so that it will be the template for drilling the rivet holes. I intend to use MS20426AD-4-5 (also known as AN426-4-5) countersunk solid rivets. I have a pneumatic squeezer and can access all the holes, so install of the rivets should not be difficult. BTW, I started out using aviation recommended rivet spacing. Had my IA look at the design, and he said that was unneeded. So, I increased the spacing. There is still a lot of rivets; but, rivets are cheap. I will also use a panel adhesive/sealant between the doubler and skin (either 3M or Dicor). Does anyone have any thoughts on that? The rivets will hold the piece, so I only need to seal the interstitial space. Also, that slot is for a lock. I may also add some Dzus-type quarter-turn flush fasteners to help hold the panel in. Those can be drilled and installed with the doubler in place. A question - do you think the lock should be at the top or bottom? Since the doubler is symmetrical, I can do either way. Does anyone have a good reason to choose top or bottom? I am inclined to put the lock at the bottom.
Regards,
Pete P.
1978 Eleganza
 

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