Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler?

I've got, no had a cheap air powered grease gun from HorrorFright. It
sounds like it's doing it's job even when it's not. I threw it in the
trash.
Just sayin
bdub

On Tue, Dec 12, 2017 at 11:41 AM, Scott Nutter
wrote:

> Is there any advantage with pneumatic vs battery guns?
> I would think the battery guns might be easier to get around being you
> don't have a hose to drag around. But I don't have experience with either,
> just
> the old style ones.
> Scott.
> --
> Scott Nutter
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final
> drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
> Houston, Texas
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Thanks Billy,
I'm eyeballing a nice DeWalt 20v battery gun on Amazon. But $199......ouch..

We might have to have a grease party at the Kerrville rally. Would be nice if someone would bring a skinny grandkid to fit under the coaches...
Scott
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
Houston, Texas
 
Matt,

Thanks for the thoughtful response. That about sums it up for me. Found a nice diagram for 17 of the 18 grease points here:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/532691462165025085/. I Will have to track this image down in my actual manuals.

BTW, where did you serve as a ship's engineer? Just curious - I've been in facilities operations and maintenance since 2003 and have crossed paths
with many former maritime engineers. Never new or thought of that career path when I was coming up. It would have have been a good fit for me.
--
Wackster - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
 
> Matt,
>
> Thanks for the thoughtful response. That about sums it up for me. Found a nice diagram for 17 of the 18 grease points here:
> https://www.pinterest.com/pin/532691462165025085/. I Will have to track this image down in my actual manuals.
>
> BTW, where did you serve as a ship's engineer? Just curious - I've been in facilities operations and maintenance since 2003 and have crossed
> paths with many former maritime engineers. Never new or thought of that career path when I was coming up. It would have have been a good fit for
> me.

John,

It was my pleasure to do so. I got to where I am with the help of a lot wonderful people. Some of them write here. Now that you know where they
are, you have fewer excuses to not take care of them. My coach as 18 points because there is a point at the connection of the relay lever and the
intermediate rod. I also now have one on each knuckle so the wheel bearings can get greased without tearing it apart. Unlike the picture you found.
(It exists in the manual too. Look at 0-15 or 9-1) There maybe doubles at the bogie pins. If your coach is a 75 or later, that is a good mod to do.

As a much younger person, I worked the east coast as unlicensed engine, and a coastal pilot. Then I went to a trade school at Ft. Schuyler and got a
license (and a degree) so people would finally listen to me. When I finally got the papers in hand, that was when Viet Nam was winding down and there
were no open berths at all on the coast. So, I had had nothing like a vacation for 6 years at that point. I went to my bother's in South Carolina
for a visit, and them came to Michigan to visit my sister. My bother in law suggested that if ships are what I do, I could do that here.
To that I said - RIGHT (read sarcasm)
He was right. More than that they were hurting for open license engineers. The ships were museum pieces, but ships none the less. So, I did that a
lot (on and off) for the next seven years.
We ships engineers are a strange bunch. You get to be one only if you A: Get recommended by chief engineer somewhere (you worked for him), and B:
Pass a three day long written test on the technology of western man including anything that might ever show up on a ship. So, you get out in the rest
of the world and get to marvel at the specialization some stick them selves with.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Thanks again. Good story. So Fort Schuyler = SUNY Maritime College? Personally, South Carolina sounds better than Michigan, but then I guess it all
worked out for you. Safe travels. Hope our paths cross one day.
--
Wackster - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
 
Generic grease gun couplers are a PITA, unless you understand how to use them. For a simple trick, keep reading.

When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.

The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.

SIMPLE TRICK

The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers, and re-install barely finger tight.

Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and frustration.

I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.

I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.

Les Burt
Montreal
 
> Thanks again. Good story. So Fort Schuyler = SUNY Maritime College? Personally, South Carolina sounds better than Michigan, but then I guess it
> all worked out for you. Safe travels. Hope our paths cross one day.

Yeap, SUNY.
South Carolina had some charm, but Ann Arbor was a great place to be young single and crazy - even if I was gone for months at a time in the summer.
My brother has been known to mention that they have something blooming every day of the year, but he also neglects to mention that there is something
that crawls and bites every day of the year. And there was not much demand for any king of engineers.

When you make it to an international (and you should), we will probably meet. We still don't know where 2018 fall is going to be. I'm not trying for
Tucson.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Les Burt[1

> reading.
>
> When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk
> if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.
>
>
> The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
>
> SIMPLE TRICK
>
> The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers,
> and re-install barely finger tight.
>
> Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and
> frustration.
>
> I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no
> longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my
> guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
>
>
> I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal

Les,

I have been tending to the couplers I have carefully, but the problem with the two handed gun was that working even with the coupler hard to get on,
the effort of working the gun would sometimes pop it loose. So, I got a good one handed gun and I can hold the coupler straight while pumping, but
pumping takes at least twice as long.

What all of this has me wondering is if the fittings are maybe too worn to hold the coupler well. As I will soon have most of them out from under the
coach, it am going to look for this case.

I am concerned that the new locking coupler will be too large to get on the fitting in cardan joint in the bottom of the steering shaft. That one is
tight.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt
I have rarely seen a zerk that was so excessively worn on the exterior that the coupler wouldn't hold. It does happen, but usually from external interferences do rubbing. I have seen zerks that were partially blocked internally, requiring excess pressure to get the grease to flow into the joint. The excess pressure can cause the coupler to pop off.

I would definitely try new zerks on the most problematic grease points. It's a cheap step to try.

But I'm sure you already knew this!

;)

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'

>
> Les Burt[1

>> reading.
>>
>> When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk
>> if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.
>>
>>
>> The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
>>
>> SIMPLE TRICK
>>
>> The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers,
>> and re-install barely finger tight.
>>
>> Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and
>> frustration.
>>
>> I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no
>> longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my
>> guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
>>
>>
>> I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
>>
>> Les Burt
>> Montreal
>
> Les,
>
> I have been tending to the couplers I have carefully, but the problem with the two handed gun was that working even with the coupler hard to get on,
> the effort of working the gun would sometimes pop it loose. So, I got a good one handed gun and I can hold the coupler straight while pumping, but
> pumping takes at least twice as long.
>
> What all of this has me wondering is if the fittings are maybe too worn to hold the coupler well. As I will soon have most of them out from under the
> coach, it am going to look for this case.
>
> I am concerned that the new locking coupler will be too large to get on the fitting in cardan joint in the bottom of the steering shaft. That one is
> tight.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
G'day,

I have five grease guns in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far they have worked just fine:

Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-grease-gun-61575.html

One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
that's what I stayed with).

The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.

Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html

One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
that's what I stayed with).

The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.

One of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-3-oz-grease-95575.html

This gun is filled with silicone grease to grease the lower control arm urethane bushings on the Kingsley.

https://www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html

I DO NOT store the Mobil 1 or Synpower guns with the cartridges in them because the pressure of the spring that forces the grease
into the pump causes it to separate. I remove them and wrap one end with Glad Wrap and put the plastic cap on the other and store
them horizontally.

Re: the grease nipple getting stuck on the zerk; click on the link below and use the Zoom tool to expand the view of the fitting at
the end of the hose.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html

Note that there are two hex sections, one on the hose and a second on the part that attaches to the zerk. In the photo you will
notice a section just to the left of the hex on end that has two lines on it; that is the female pipe fitting that attaches to the
hose. I have discovered that part that attaches to the zerk can come loose where the female pipe section attaches to that piece and
it makes it impossible to get it off the zerk. When this happens I tighten the fitting and then I can remove the grease gun from the
zerk.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
 
Matt, this is the one I'm using. It's only slightly larger than the original fittings. Only issue is it seems to be difficult to remove from the zerk
sometimes, especially with grease on my hands.
:?https://www.amazon.com/Lock-Grease-Coupler-Connect-Disconnect/dp/B00TLD6VR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513279696&sr=8-4&keywords=lock+on+gr
ease+gun+coupler
Hal

> Les Burt[1

> > reading.
> >
> > When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the
> > zerk if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older
> > grease guns.
> >
> > The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
> >
> > SIMPLE TRICK
> >
> > The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with
> > pliers, and re-install barely finger tight.
> >
> > Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and
> > frustration.
> >
> > I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and
> > they no longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands.
> > Most of my guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
> >
> >
> > I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
> >
> > Les Burt
> > Montreal
>
> Les,
>
> I have been tending to the couplers I have carefully, but the problem with the two handed gun was that working even with the coupler hard to get
> on, the effort of working the gun would sometimes pop it loose. So, I got a good one handed gun and I can hold the coupler straight while pumping,
> but pumping takes at least twice as long.
>
> What all of this has me wondering is if the fittings are maybe too worn to hold the coupler well. As I will soon have most of them out from under
> the coach, it am going to look for this case.
>
> I am concerned that the new locking coupler will be too large to get on the fitting in cardan joint in the bottom of the steering shaft. That one
> is tight.
>
> Matt

--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM
 
With my Lincoln grease guns that are both loaded with SynPower, they don't bleed.
I had Dave do my knuckles with SynPower.
The one I carry in the coach is always messy, but it has always been I did not give it a bath before loading SymPower and clearing it.

Matt

> G'day,
>
> I have five grease guns in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far they have worked just fine:
>
> Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-grease-gun-61575.html
>
> One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
> that's what I stayed with).
>
> The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.
>
> Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html
>
> One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
> that's what I stayed with).
>
> The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.
>
> One of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-3-oz-grease-95575.html
>
> This gun is filled with silicone grease to grease the lower control arm urethane bushings on the Kingsley.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html
>
> I DO NOT store the Mobil 1 or Synpower guns with the cartridges in them because the pressure of the spring that forces the grease
> into the pump causes it to separate. I remove them and wrap one end with Glad Wrap and put the plastic cap on the other and store
> them horizontally.
>
> Re: the grease nipple getting stuck on the zerk; click on the link below and use the Zoom tool to expand the view of the fitting at
> the end of the hose.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html
>
> Note that there are two hex sections, one on the hose and a second on the part that attaches to the zerk. In the photo you will
> notice a section just to the left of the hex on end that has two lines on it; that is the female pipe fitting that attaches to the
> hose. I have discovered that part that attaches to the zerk can come loose where the female pipe section attaches to that piece and
> it makes it impossible to get it off the zerk. When this happens I tighten the fitting and then I can remove the grease gun from the
> zerk.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
> Matt, this is the one I'm using. It's only slightly larger than the original fittings. Only issue is it seems to be difficult to remove from the
> zerk sometimes, especially with grease on my hands. :?
> https://www.amazon.com/Lock-Grease-Coupler-Connect-Disconnect/dp/B00TLD6VR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513279696&sr=8-4&keywords=lock+on+grea
> se+gun+coupler
> Hal

Hal,

I have one of those in a box someplace, I have had it a long time, but the capability to use it with greasy hands is why it is in a box somewhere in
my barn.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt,

How does the Lincoln grease gun force grease into the pump?

Dave supplied the hubs and knuckles in 2008 or 2009 before I knew much about greases that were available so I went with his choice.

I don't understand why the one in your coach is messy if it doesn't bleed.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Matt Colie
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2017 8:04 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler?

With my Lincoln grease guns that are both loaded with SynPower, they don't bleed.
I had Dave do my knuckles with SynPower.
The one I carry in the coach is always messy, but it has always been I did not give it a bath before loading SymPower and clearing
it.

Matt
 
> Matt,
>
> How does the Lincoln grease gun force grease into the pump?
>
> Dave supplied the hubs and knuckles in 2008 or 2009 before I knew much about greases that were available so I went with his choice.
>
> I don't understand why the one in your coach is messy if it doesn't bleed.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.

Rob,

The one in the coach got has been the onboard grease gun for as long as I have had Chaumière. I carry it to grease the bogies every 1K. It did not
always have Sympower in it. It is still slimey form the old grease as I never think to disassemble it and clean it. I did run over the outside with
brake cleaner and about an half a roll of paper towels once, but that still left enough inside to keep leaking out. I also can't find another heavy
weight deep plastic bag to keep it in, so it is still in the same slimy bag. Yeah, I am lazy about some things.

The Lincolns have a spring like everybody else, but I guess they have a better pusher seal. I just had to go to the barn to check something and
stopped to look at the 1133 that I use for the front end. It has been hanging on my tool box loaded for at least three years. The was something to
wipe off the pull handle. I can't promise that did not get there one time when I used it.

Up until about 2010, I used a red high temperature something grease. I still have a tube in stock because I did not find it until after I had changed
3 of four guns to SynPower. The forth gun is a Sears gun that I bought when I was in college. It is empty. Change was kind of sudden when I
realized that the bearing on my mower had not been replaced in three years. This used to be an annual thing. Mowing the lawn in the spring or early
summer and suddenly rubber smoke and a BANG and the mower would quiet now because one idler sheave had seized again and broken the belt. So, go back
to the barn, drop the deck out from under the tractor, take all the covers off and get out the spare sheave and the backup belt. But the last time I
did this, instead of just replacing the non-serviceable bearing, I put in a open bearing that I had greased with SynPower. That was when I decide to
hell with the cost, Synpower is cheap. That bearing is still in there, but I do plan to open it up and regrease it this spring - if I remember and am
not caught short by sudden grass growth (again).

If someone knows where I a 10mil 12x24 ploy bag, I would really like a clean new one.

Matt


--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
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