Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.

heinz wittenbecher

New member
Mar 1, 1998
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I did see some email traffic re a hitch but didn't see anything conclusive
as to where to get.

I am looking for a hitch that does not protrude behind or below, i.e. when
not used I'd like it to be out of sight and not interfere.

Of course I'm not totally decided on whether to even tow or not. How much
harder is it on the rig? Does the convenience outweigh the extra wear/cost?

Back to the hitch... I don't want to have to do any 'welding'. Is it
possible to get a 'bolt-on' and not sacrifice or rather compromise safety
etc.

You comments and experiences greatly appreciated.

Heinz
'76 Transmode
 
Heinz:

Here is the contact you should check with: Paul Z. Bennett, 2400
Blossom St., Columbia SC 29205, 803-252-7002

Although I got mine from Clasco in early 1995, Paul handles, or at least
use to, the through-the-bumper type I purchased. No welding required.
It bolts in place. Of course, the bumper requires notching out so the
receiver is exposed (approximately midway, vertically speaking, in the
bumper face).

Paul Bartz
> From: Heinz Wittenbecher [SMTP:heinz]
> Sent: Friday, March 20, 1998 4:20 PM
>
> I did see some email traffic re a hitch but didn't see anything
> conclusive as to where to get.
>
> I am looking for a hitch that does not protrude behind or below (i. e.
> when not used I'd like it to be out of sight and not interfere.
>
> Of course I'm not totally decided on whether to even tow or not. How
> much harder is it on the rig? Does the convenience outweigh the extra
> wear/cost?
>
> Back to the hitch... I don't want to have to do any 'welding'. Is it
> possible to get a 'bolt-on' and not sacrifice or rather compromise
> safety etc.
>
> You comments and experiences greatly appreciated.
>
> Heinz
> '76 Transmode
>
 
>
> I did see some email traffic re a hitch but didn't see anything
> conclusive as to where to get.
>
> I am looking for a hitch that does not protrude behind or below, i.e.
> when not used I'd like it to be out of sight and not interfere.
>


> Back to the hitch... I don't want to have to do any 'welding'. Is it
> possible to get a 'bolt-on' and not sacrifice or rather compromise
> safety etc.

I found two options for bolt-on receiver hitches. Ray Curtis at Eaton
RV sells a bolt-on under bumper hitch for $225 plus shipping. Paul
Bennetts sells a bolt-on through bumper hitch(requires notching the
bumper) for $290 plus shipping. I'm going with the through bumper
version to avoid reducing rear ground clearance any further.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
>

> I'm going with the through bumper
>version to avoid reducing rear ground clearance any further.
>

I think I'll do the same. Guess it'll mean moving the sewer outlet,
something I've been trying to avoid. Tried calling Paul Bennett today but no
answer (Thank you for the phone#, Paul Bartz). Hopefully I can get it
organized next week and then I'll have to dive into what towbar might
suit/fit my Mazda Protoge (standard shift).

Heinz
 
>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet. Suggestion:
You
>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a straight
piece
>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case you
have
>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will keep
you
>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!

I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the original
started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair it
while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
underneath.

I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on it.

Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.

I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self contained
pump-out.

This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but it's
fun.

Heinz
 
>
> Tried calling Paul Bennett today but no
> answer (Thank you for the phone#, Paul Bartz). Hopefully I can get it
> organized next week and then I'll have to dive into what towbar might
> suit/fit my Mazda Protoge (standard shift).

Heinz,

I should have added that Paul's in Las Vegas for GMCMI rally. He'll be
back the second week in April.

Be sure and tell him you heard about him on GMCnet!
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Thanks Patrick, thought that might be the case.
Screws up the timetable a little, but hopefully it'll be an in stock (or
easily available) item.

>
>I should have added that Paul's in Las Vegas for GMCMI rally. He'll be
>back the second week in April.
>
>Be sure and tell him you heard about him on GMCnet!

Will do.. for sure. It's nice to have this maillist to bounce/share info.

Heinz
 
>
> Thanks Patrick, thought that might be the case.
> Screws up the timetable a little, but hopefully it'll be an in
> stock (or easily available) item.

When I talked to him week before last, they were in stock at Gemco.
Figure about 1 week for packing and shipping after Paul receives your
check. According to Paul, the crate weighs 70lbs - just barely within
the limit that UPS will carry.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
I worked at UPS untill Christmas and think that they raised the package
wieght last year. I am not sure but think that they will take packages up
to 100 lbs. now. You could check on their web site www.ups.com.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Flowers
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Monday, March 23, 1998 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.

>>
>> Thanks Patrick, thought that might be the case.
>> Screws up the timetable a little, but hopefully it'll be an in
>> stock (or easily available) item.
>
>When I talked to him week before last, they were in stock at Gemco.
>Figure about 1 week for packing and shipping after Paul receives your
>check. According to Paul, the crate weighs 70lbs - just barely within
>the limit that UPS will carry.
>
>Patrick
>--
>Patrick Flowers
>Mailto:patri63
>
>The GMC Motorhome Page
>http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
>
 
To do this upgrade ----> Do you still leave the gate valve in place??
Will the 1 1/2 inch inlet used on a JABSCO work,
or should I spend the extra bucks on a 3 in inlet??

>If you really want to have fun, Heinz, and add the most practical gizmo
>to your coach...install a mascerator pump between the tank and the swivel
>joint and connect a 7/8" hose to the discharge side of the pump, about
>20' or so.
>
>You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Ask anyone who has one!
>
>dave
>David Lee Greenberg
>GMC Motorhome Registry
>Delray Beach, FL
>davegreenberg1
>
>On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800 "Heinz Wittenbecher"

>>
>>
>>>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet.
>>Suggestion:
>>You
>>>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a
>>straight
>>piece
>>>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case
>>you
>>have
>>>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will
>>keep
>>you
>>>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>>
>>I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the
>>original
>>started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
>>tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair
>>it
>>while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
>>underneath.
>>
>>I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on
>>it.
>>
>>Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
>>stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
>>
>>I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self
>>contained
>>pump-out.
>>
>>This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but
>>it's
>>fun.
>>
>>Heinz
>>
>>
>>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>
>
 
I'm using the folks at MARINE PARTSFINDERS (WWW.MARINEPARTS.COM). They have
a JABSCO 12 GPM Macerator model 8690-0000 that comes in an 'RV' version with
3 inch ports.

>Do you have a model, manufacture and place to buy the mascerator from?
>

>>If you really want to have fun, Heinz, and add the most practical gizmo
>>to your coach...install a mascerator pump between the tank and the swivel
>>joint and connect a 7/8" hose to the discharge side of the pump, about
>>20' or so.
>>
>>You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Ask anyone who has one!
>>
>>dave
>>David Lee Greenberg
>>GMC Motorhome Registry
>>Delray Beach, FL
>>davegreenberg1
>>
>>On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800 "Heinz Wittenbecher"

>>>
>>>
>>>>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet.
>>>Suggestion:
>>>You
>>>>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a
>>>straight
>>>piece
>>>>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case
>>>you
>>>have
>>>>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will
>>>keep
>>>you
>>>>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>>>
>>>I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the
>>>original
>>>started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
>>>tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair
>>>it
>>>while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
>>>underneath.
>>>
>>>I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on
>>>it.
>>>
>>>Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
>>>stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
>>>
>>>I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self
>>>contained
>>>pump-out.
>>>
>>>This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but
>>>it's
>>>fun.
>>>
>>>Heinz
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>_____________________________________________________________________
>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
 
I do agree with the installation of a macerator pump. In addition to the
macerator pump, I installed a fresh water inlet to the waste tank to help
flush it out. There were times when we came home from a trip and the tank
was still full. All I would do is back up the drive way, connect my 3/4"
garden hose to the discharge and flush out my tank into my toilet in the
house. Cleanest way of emptying the waste tank and best upgrade to the motor
home yet.

Rich Major
'78 Kingsley
Sugar Land, Texas

> If you really want to have fun, Heinz, and add the most practical gizmo
> to your coach...install a mascerator pump between the tank and the swivel
> joint and connect a 7/8" hose to the discharge side of the pump, about
> 20' or so.
>
> You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Ask anyone who has one!
>
> dave
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> Delray Beach, FL
> davegreenberg1
>
> On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800 "Heinz Wittenbecher"

> >
> >
> >>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet.
> >Suggestion:
> >You
> >>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a
> >straight
> >piece
> >>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case
> >you
> >have
> >>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will
> >keep
> >you
> >>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
> >
> >I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the
> >original
> >started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
> >tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair
> >it
> >while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
> >underneath.
> >
> >I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on
> >it.
> >
> >Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
> >stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
> >
> >I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self
> >contained
> >pump-out.
> >
> >This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but
> >it's
> >fun.
> >
> >Heinz
> >
> >
> >
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 
David
Could you discribe the mercerator pump installation in more detail?
Herm.

>
> If you really want to have fun, Heinz, and add the most practical
gizmo
> to your coach...install a mascerator pump between the tank and the
swivel
> joint and connect a 7/8" hose to the discharge side of the pump, about
> 20' or so.
>
> You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Ask anyone who has
one!
>
> dave
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> Delray Beach, FL
> davegreenberg1
>
> On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800 "Heinz Wittenbecher"

> >
> >
> >>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet.
> >Suggestion:
> >You
> >>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a
> >straight
> >piece
> >>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In
case
> >you
> >have
> >>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this
will
> >keep
> >you
> >>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
> >
> >I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the
> >original
> >started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
> >tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair
> >it
> >while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
> >underneath.
> >
> >I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on
> >it.
> >
> >Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup
that
> >stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
> >
> >I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self
> >contained
> >pump-out.
> >
> >This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but
> >it's
> >fun.
> >
> >Heinz
> >
> >
> >
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free #yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
 
Herm,

A macerator pump pumps the black water tank out and grinds up the
chunks so they will fit through a 7/8" garden hose. You just put the
hose down the toilet and turn the pump on. It's very convenient because
you don't have to look for a dump station and you don't have to drag out
that large hose. It's makes dumping your black water tank much easier.

I wonder, has anyone heard of that other kind of system that pumps
the black water into your engine as it's running? That way the tank
gets emptied as you drive.

- -Scott Woodworth
 
Do you have a model, manufacture and place to buy the mascerator from?

>If you really want to have fun, Heinz, and add the most practical gizmo
>to your coach...install a mascerator pump between the tank and the swivel
>joint and connect a 7/8" hose to the discharge side of the pump, about
>20' or so.
>
>You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Ask anyone who has one!
>
>dave
>David Lee Greenberg
>GMC Motorhome Registry
>Delray Beach, FL
>davegreenberg1
>
>On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800 "Heinz Wittenbecher"

>>
>>
>>>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet.
>>Suggestion:
>>You
>>>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a
>>straight
>>piece
>>>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case
>>you
>>have
>>>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will
>>keep
>>you
>>>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>>
>>I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the
>>original
>>started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
>>tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair
>>it
>>while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
>>underneath.
>>
>>I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on
>>it.
>>
>>Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
>>stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
>>
>>I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self
>>contained
>>pump-out.
>>
>>This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but
>>it's
>>fun.
>>
>>Heinz
>>
>>
>>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>
>
 
Thanks and another question. can the knuckles on the 1969 be used on the
motorhome, how about the hubs?

>I'm using the folks at MARINE PARTSFINDERS (WWW.MARINEPARTS.COM). They have
>a JABSCO 12 GPM Macerator model 8690-0000 that comes in an 'RV' version with
>3 inch ports.
>

>>Do you have a model, manufacture and place to buy the mascerator from?
>>

>>>If you really want to have fun, Heinz, and add the most practical gizmo
>>>to your coach...install a mascerator pump between the tank and the swivel
>>>joint and connect a 7/8" hose to the discharge side of the pump, about
>>>20' or so.
>>>
>>>You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Ask anyone who has one!
>>>
>>>dave
>>>David Lee Greenberg
>>>GMC Motorhome Registry
>>>Delray Beach, FL
>>>davegreenberg1
>>>
>>>On Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800 "Heinz Wittenbecher"

>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet.
>>>>Suggestion:
>>>>You
>>>>>can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a
>>>>straight
>>>>piece
>>>>>of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case
>>>>you
>>>>have
>>>>>leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will
>>>>keep
>>>>you
>>>>>from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>>>>
>>>>I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the
>>>>original
>>>>started to leak more than a bit :-) An emergency repair with goop and
>>>>tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair
>>>>it
>>>>while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
>>>>underneath.
>>>>
>>>>I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on
>>>>it.
>>>>
>>>>Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
>>>>stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
>>>>
>>>>I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self
>>>>contained
>>>>pump-out.
>>>>
>>>>This is turning into another one of those typical projects :-), but
>>>>it's
>>>>fun.
>>>>
>>>>Heinz
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>_____________________________________________________________________
>>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>>>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
 
>The system I think you are referring to was an option on the early GMCs.
>It was called ThermoSan and it seems to me the waste was pumped into the
>exhaust system, maybe after the mufflers, and incinerated. There were
>problems with this as you can imagine. I suppose exhaust system life was
>shortened and i surely wouldn't want to follow someone down the road as
>they were "dumping"!
>
>

If read the manual correctly, the Thermosan system had interlocks that
required that the exhaust temp had to be above a certain level and
the road speed had to be above a certain leval as well, before the
the system would operate. so the any "dump" would be completely
burned. also any "corrosive" action by the waste, would be null.
Anyone with more information feel free to correct me.

John Szalay