I would like to thank the people that took the time and money to develop the aluminum low rise intake.
I hope it has paid off for them.
I hope it has paid off for them.
Aluminum intake manifold-opinions..
- Thread starter scott nutter1
- Start date
All good points and ideas.
Especially James Hupy's detailed dissertation on the install.
Honestly, I'm getting more feed back on the negatives vs the good. And there seems to be more people wanting to sell their used aluminum manifolds
than used steel manifolds.
The aluminum manifold seems to be less "forgiving" if not installed perfectly, and installing while leaning over the engine Hatch is not a perfect
situation.
So all in all the new aluminum low profile manifolds and not patterned exactly as the original manifolds..
Maybe the best option is just to fill the crossover ports and also use the block off plates and stay with the steel manifold.
Thanks, Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
Houston, Texas
Especially James Hupy's detailed dissertation on the install.
Honestly, I'm getting more feed back on the negatives vs the good. And there seems to be more people wanting to sell their used aluminum manifolds
than used steel manifolds.
The aluminum manifold seems to be less "forgiving" if not installed perfectly, and installing while leaning over the engine Hatch is not a perfect
situation.
So all in all the new aluminum low profile manifolds and not patterned exactly as the original manifolds..
Maybe the best option is just to fill the crossover ports and also use the block off plates and stay with the steel manifold.
Thanks, Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
Houston, Texas
Should I change the maniforld for some reason, I'll likely go to the aluminum one purely because I can lift it and place it.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Johnny,
With all due respect even with the aluminum manifold it's best if two people are involved; one person slowly lowers it while the
second guides it onto the locating pins (two bolts with the heads cut off screwed into the front and rear of one head) to make sure
when it "lands" on the engine it touches down slowly and squarely - front -back / left - right.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:36 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Aluminum intake manifold-opinions..
Should I change the maniforld for some reason, I'll likely go to the aluminum one purely because I can lift it and place it.
--johnny
With all due respect even with the aluminum manifold it's best if two people are involved; one person slowly lowers it while the
second guides it onto the locating pins (two bolts with the heads cut off screwed into the front and rear of one head) to make sure
when it "lands" on the engine it touches down slowly and squarely - front -back / left - right.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:36 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Aluminum intake manifold-opinions..
Should I change the maniforld for some reason, I'll likely go to the aluminum one purely because I can lift it and place it.
--johnny
G'day,
For those of you that would like a method of permanently filling the crossover cheaply here's the items that you can use:
1) Moroso Engine Block Filler - 1 gallon $20.99 http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/35571/10002/-1
2) Mondello HR-351 Heat Riser Block Off Plates - $29.00 http://www.mondellotwister.com/GasketsSealants.htm
3) Fel-Pro Gasket Material 1/32 (0.031) thick - $4.97
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-3046-Gasket-Materials-/391648482364?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
4) Permatex 85080 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 9.5 oz. Power Bead Can
$19.99
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85080-Resistance-Silicone-PowerBead/dp/B000HBGI1M
The reason I suggested the can is because it is MUCH easier to get a nice even bead on the sealing surfaces at the front and rear of
the lifter valley.
Total cost = $74.95 plus shipping.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
For those of you that would like a method of permanently filling the crossover cheaply here's the items that you can use:
1) Moroso Engine Block Filler - 1 gallon $20.99 http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/35571/10002/-1
2) Mondello HR-351 Heat Riser Block Off Plates - $29.00 http://www.mondellotwister.com/GasketsSealants.htm
3) Fel-Pro Gasket Material 1/32 (0.031) thick - $4.97
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-3046-Gasket-Materials-/391648482364?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
4) Permatex 85080 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 9.5 oz. Power Bead Can
$19.99
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85080-Resistance-Silicone-PowerBead/dp/B000HBGI1M
The reason I suggested the can is because it is MUCH easier to get a nice even bead on the sealing surfaces at the front and rear of
the lifter valley.
Total cost = $74.95 plus shipping.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
One more BIG help with intake manifolds: Make a handle from a dowel or
piece of pipe, just long enough to reach diagonally across the carburetor
flange. Put a hole in each end of it with long 3/8-16 bolts into
diagonally opposite carb flange holes. When I last had to do the job 5+
years ago, I was easily able to lower the iron manifold onto guide pins (as
suggested by Rob) and into position -- alone. Today, at 80, maybe not so
easily.
Ken H.
On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 8:49 AM, Rob Mueller
wrote:
> Johnny,
>
> With all due respect even with the aluminum manifold it's best if two
> people are involved; one person slowly lowers it while the
> second guides it onto the locating pins (two bolts with the heads cut off
> screwed into the front and rear of one head) to make sure
> when it "lands" on the engine it touches down slowly and squarely - front
> -back / left - right.
>
piece of pipe, just long enough to reach diagonally across the carburetor
flange. Put a hole in each end of it with long 3/8-16 bolts into
diagonally opposite carb flange holes. When I last had to do the job 5+
years ago, I was easily able to lower the iron manifold onto guide pins (as
suggested by Rob) and into position -- alone. Today, at 80, maybe not so
easily.
Ken H.
On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 8:49 AM, Rob Mueller
wrote:
> Johnny,
>
> With all due respect even with the aluminum manifold it's best if two
> people are involved; one person slowly lowers it while the
> second guides it onto the locating pins (two bolts with the heads cut off
> screwed into the front and rear of one head) to make sure
> when it "lands" on the engine it touches down slowly and squarely - front
> -back / left - right.
>
Scott, I would not get too panicky about it. I installed my aluminum
manifold a couple of times without issue, using headless bolts as alignment
devices, and following Dick Paterson's instructions on where to apply
sealant.
One trick not mentioned is to use a mirror to confirm that the RTV bead at
the fore and aft ends of the lifter galley make full contact. That bead
will be filling a gap of about 1/8".
Then, let the silicone cure for a day before checking the torque and
starting the engine. Cycle the engine through its full heat range and check
torque again.
I never had a problem with my second-generation Rockwell manifold.
You see them used because they survive a failed engine, and they aren't
cracked like many iron manifolds. Just a few precautions will be needed.
Rick "Laughing at the thought of Ken Henderson, 80-going-on-60, not being
able to lift a manifold" Denney
> All good points and ideas.
> Especially James Hupy's detailed dissertation on the install.
>
> Honestly, I'm getting more feed back on the negatives vs the good. And
> there seems to be more people wanting to sell their used aluminum manifolds
> than used steel manifolds.
>
> The aluminum manifold seems to be less "forgiving" if not installed
> perfectly, and installing while leaning over the engine Hatch is not a
> perfect
> situation.
>
> So all in all the new aluminum low profile manifolds and not patterned
> exactly as the original manifolds..
>
> Maybe the best option is just to fill the crossover ports and also use the
> block off plates and stay with the steel manifold.
> Thanks, Scott.
> --
> Scott Nutter
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final
> drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
> Houston, Texas
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
manifold a couple of times without issue, using headless bolts as alignment
devices, and following Dick Paterson's instructions on where to apply
sealant.
One trick not mentioned is to use a mirror to confirm that the RTV bead at
the fore and aft ends of the lifter galley make full contact. That bead
will be filling a gap of about 1/8".
Then, let the silicone cure for a day before checking the torque and
starting the engine. Cycle the engine through its full heat range and check
torque again.
I never had a problem with my second-generation Rockwell manifold.
You see them used because they survive a failed engine, and they aren't
cracked like many iron manifolds. Just a few precautions will be needed.
Rick "Laughing at the thought of Ken Henderson, 80-going-on-60, not being
able to lift a manifold" Denney
> All good points and ideas.
> Especially James Hupy's detailed dissertation on the install.
>
> Honestly, I'm getting more feed back on the negatives vs the good. And
> there seems to be more people wanting to sell their used aluminum manifolds
> than used steel manifolds.
>
> The aluminum manifold seems to be less "forgiving" if not installed
> perfectly, and installing while leaning over the engine Hatch is not a
> perfect
> situation.
>
> So all in all the new aluminum low profile manifolds and not patterned
> exactly as the original manifolds..
>
> Maybe the best option is just to fill the crossover ports and also use the
> block off plates and stay with the steel manifold.
> Thanks, Scott.
> --
> Scott Nutter
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final
> drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi.
> Houston, Texas
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
