Air Tank Leak

[tom & cindy]

I'm proving the "weak link" theory. My 75 PB has a new 4-bag system
installed by the PO, but over the winter the air tank develoved a
pinhole leak on the bottom, near the drain valve. Until I can round up
a replacement tank (maybe one of the stainless ones), is there a
temporary repair I can do on the tank? I thought about bubble gum, but
figured the resulting bubble would probably block my view . My tank
is located up front on the drivers side, next to the compressor. It is
mounted horizontally. The pressure gauge is on an instrument panel in
the cockpit. I can't quite read all of the ID numbers on the tank,
because the Penn pressure regulator (I think) is in the way; I can see
the word "BRISK" and "150 psi". The tank is about 12 inches long and 9
inches in diameter, and it looks like it's the original tank. I hate to
remove it for a temporary repair, so if anyone has any experience or
thoughts about how to repair it without removing it, I'd appreciate any
input.

BTW, does anyone know the difference between the first and second design
of the stainless tank offered by Jim DeMaere? I'm hoping one of them is
a close replacement for the dying one currently on my coach.

For that matter, does anyone know if direct replacement steel tanks are
still available? Since it's Saturday afternoon, I'll need to wait until
Monday to call Cinnabar or any of the other places that might have them.

TIA,

Tom 75 PB
Colorado (soon to be Arizona)

 

[david l greenberg]

On Sat, 03 Jun 2000 12:06:28 -0600 Tom & Cindy
writes:
> I'm proving the "weak link" theory. My 75 PB has a new 4-bag system
> installed by the PO, but over the winter the air tank develoved a
> pinhole leak on the bottom, near the drain valve. Until I can round
> up a replacement tank (maybe one of the stainless ones), is there a
> temporary repair I can do on the tank? I thought about bubble gum,
> but figured the resulting bubble would probably block my view .

I am afraid I can't offer any advice in repairing the tank but this is a
good example of what happens when owners don't purge the water from the
tank occasionally. The front mounted tanks especially need regular
draining.

>
> BTW, does anyone know the difference between the first and second
> design of the stainless tank offered by Jim DeMaere? I'm hoping one of

> them is a close replacement for the dying one currently on my coach.
>

Tom, I think you are refering to hot water tanks when you mention 1st and
2nd design? Are there two designs for the air tank?

David Lee Greenberg
GMC Motorhome Registry
Dedicated To The Preservation Of The GMC Classic!
www.gmcss.com/registry.htm

 

[emerystora]

> but over the winter the air tank develoved a
>pinhole leak on the bottom, near the drain valve. Until I can round up
>a replacement tank (maybe one of the stainless ones), is there a
>temporary repair I can do on the tank?

If you remove it you could braze a small spot. If you don't want to
remove it and can easily reach the pinhole, you should be able to
seal the leak with a good epoxy such as JB Weld. Clean it well and
get all the paint off. File or grind it down to bare metal (a Dremel
tool works well) or just use a hand file or sandpaper. Mix up a glob
of JB Weld (Walmart, Home Depot, AutoZone, or just about any hardware
store carries it) and put a patch over the pinhole. About the size
of a quarter should do the job. Let it cure at least 24 hours before
putting pressure on the tank. I think you'll find that it will seal
the leak and hold the pressure just fine.

It is important to drain the water out of the tanks periodically.
The water gets in with the air and then condenses out. If left lying
in the steel tanks it will eventually rust them out.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM

 

[gene]

In a pinch, I have put pipe goop on a metal screw and screwed it into the
hole in the tank... usually will stop the leak until you can get a new tank

gene

>I'm proving the "weak link" theory. My 75 PB has a new 4-bag system
>installed by the PO, but over the winter the air tank develoved a
>pinhole leak on the bottom, near the drain valve. Until I can round up
>a replacement tank (maybe one of the stainless ones), is there a
>temporary repair I can do on the tank? I thought about bubble gum, but
>figured the resulting bubble would probably block my view . My tank
>is located up front on the drivers side, next to the compressor. It is
>mounted horizontally. The pressure gauge is on an instrument panel in
>the cockpit. I can't quite read all of the ID numbers on the tank,
>because the Penn pressure regulator (I think) is in the way; I can see
>the word "BRISK" and "150 psi". The tank is about 12 inches long and 9
>inches in diameter, and it looks like it's the original tank. I hate to
>remove it for a temporary repair, so if anyone has any experience or
>thoughts about how to repair it without removing it, I'd appreciate any
>input.
>
>BTW, does anyone know the difference between the first and second design
>of the stainless tank offered by Jim DeMaere? I'm hoping one of them is
>a close replacement for the dying one currently on my coach.
>
>For that matter, does anyone know if direct replacement steel tanks are
>still available? Since it's Saturday afternoon, I'll need to wait until
>Monday to call Cinnabar or any of the other places that might have them.
>
>TIA,
>
>Tom 75 PB
>Colorado (soon to be Arizona)
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/

 

[tom & cindy]

Thanks to Marlene, Gene, Dave, Emery, Roy, Steve and everyone who
responded -- on and off net. I learned a lot from your valuable
suggestions. For the immediate fix, some coarse grit emery cloth and a
glob of J-B Weld did the trick. If it hadn't, I would have tried the
screw and pipe dope (or screw and J-B Weld). Both of these tricks may
be tested again if the "weak link" theory holds up.

Dave, Jim DeMaere makes SS replacement air tanks in two designs. I'll
be calling him today; if his 1st design tank is a direct replacement for
mine, that may be the easiest long-term solution for me. And I'll
definitely add a condensation trap. I may also call Leigh Harrison to
inquire about an alternative solution he has installed on at least his
and Roy Cummings' coaches. If a direct replacement tank option were not
available, I'd consider the PVC pipe solution that has been discussed on
the net.

Thanks again to all. J-B Weld and a couple of screws have been added to
my "essential repair kit".

Tom
75 PB
Colorado (soon to be Arizona)