: Air filters wear and "Old Husbands' Tales

gerald schmitt

New member
Oct 5, 1998
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>I'd definitely like to richen it up a little as I'm also installing a K&N
>air filter,
>Thorley headers and Flowmaster mufflers - all of which I would think will
>make the engine run leaner still(I'd love to hear any dissenting opinions on
>this).
>
>Patrick
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>Now, these are just my opinions so take it as such.
>
> In the Amsoil web page they offered a comparison of air filters and ( of
>course) theirs came out first and the K&N came out last. Back in the
>motorcycle days the K&N's were very popular but would not filter small
>enough particulates and the oil covered foam would load up quickly. We went
>back to paper filters.

Back in the good old days I ran the oil analysis laboratory for a Caterpillar
dealer. At the time I still had some dealings with the racing community. As
a result I did some scientific studies of oil, oil coolers and air filters.

On the subject of air filters I found that there are a number of "Old
husbands'
tales" that just are not true. Please allow me to share with you the
results in
the area of air filters.

To determine the effectiveness of air filters several things have to be
considered.
Restriction to air flow is certainly an issue. On most of the test
vehicles I used a
pressure gauge that measured in inches of water to determine restrictiveness.
As best as I can remember K&N filters were always less restrictive.

Dirt entering an engine via the induction system is easily determined via
analysis
of the used lubricating oil as follows:
Silicon is a normal component in lube oil generally as a foam suppressant
normal
levels are about 5ppm. Silicon is also a major component in dirt since the
bulk of
the earth's dry surface is made up of silicon dioxide.
Induction system wear from dirt entry is indicated by raised levels of Si
and whatever
the primary ring coating material is. Chrome is most common while Ford has
used
Molybdenum quite often. Iron is generally the chief component of the
cylinder walls.
Thus when you have dirt entering the induction system you see increased
levels of
Si, Cr, and Fe. On Fords the Cat 3208 engines the chrome would be replaced
with
Mo.

Using these criteria as a model we found that in every case where a paper
filter was
replaced with a properly oiled K&N dirt related wear immediately
decreased. OTOH often
when a new paper filter was fitted there would be a slight increase in
wear until the
paper filter until the filter became slightly dirty. The K&N oiled filters
displayed excellent
filtering characteristics long after they apparently were filthy. Crud on
the surface apparently
only indicates crud that did not get in.

Conclusions from thousands of oil samples and data supplied from heavy
equipment
mechanics I conferred with:

Paper filters are not the best solution if used double filters should be
employed--one
inside the other. Used paper filters should be vacuumed NEVER blown out with
compressed air. In almost every case an oiled surgical gauze (K&N) filter
is less
restrictive and offers more protection than a conventional paper filter.
Appearance
of this type of filter is not an indicator of effectiveness, they seem to
work well
even when encrusted.

This information was generated during a time when I was responsible for
the health
and welfare of over tens of thousands of engines and other mechanical
components.
On the an average work day I would see over 100 oil samples. During this
time I had
two first rate oil laboratories at my disposal and could run any tests I
needed.

>I am most impressed with the Idea of picking up the
>air through a ventura mounted up in the grill and am pursuing this vane. I
>hope it gets a lot more discussion. Being a mechanic type I can build it if
>you guys design it.
> The exhaust on the Dumpster REALLY impressed me. The Idea of going from
>a set of headers to a "y" and then to a straight pipe all the way to the
>back of the GMC and then dumping into a muffler sounds like the way to go.
>Just think about how much heat you are removing from that engine/engine
>compartment and allowing this heat to dissipate on the trip back. The lower
>temperature lowers the speed of sound and makes it easier for the muffler to
>do it's job. The engineer types can tell you more about that than I can.
> The carberation on this rig is old hat. This system is over 30 years
>old. There is no way that we can get it to work as well as a throttle body
>injection system, and I want the security of a trouble free system. The
>problem is that it's hard to justify all that money for a TBI considering we
>only average 20,000 miles a year. I guess this is one of those things that I
>will have to bite the bullet and hope that my heirs can get the money back.
>
>Just MY .02
>
>
>
>Terry Skinner
>Webfooted in Washington
>'76 Glenbrook
>
 
>Thanks Gerry...
>
>> Back in the good old days I ran the oil analysis laboratory for a
>> Caterpillar dealer. At the time I still had some dealings with the
>> racing community. As a result I did some scientific studies of oil, oil
>> coolers and air filters.
>> On the subject of air filters...
>
>So what air and oil filters do you use and recommend for us today in our
>455s Gerry? I have only heard K&N talked about nostalgically on this
>net.

K&N seems to be alive and well and on sale at Wal-mart just be sure
to follow the instructions for oiling it. I have also seen breather filters
from them. I am not in the loop currently on oil filters but major brands
are usually a good bet. The biggest thing is keeping up on the change
intervals. Motorhomes tend to not get used enough so build up water
in the oil. Things to stay away from: oil you never have to change and
anything that sounds too good to be true.

I have had a couple of run ins with Amzoil over the years. Their claim
that oil doesn't wear out are true but it does get dirt and the additive
package does wear out. There is more to lube oil than the oil.

An additive package generally consists of viscosity improvers, detergent,
buffer compounds and anti scuff agents. Some or all of these are depleted
with use and the characteristics of the oil change. Best bet change the
oil regularly as automotive engines are really leaky to dirt.

One more tidbit for the day then I have to get back to work. ALL OIL
LEAKS ARE TWO WAY if oil,grease etc. are comming out dirt is getting
in via the same route. Time and time again we found this, oil leak increased
dirt related wear.
>
>--
>"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..." John said.
>
 
Thanks Gerry...

> Back in the good old days I ran the oil analysis laboratory for a
> Caterpillar dealer. At the time I still had some dealings with the
> racing community. As a result I did some scientific studies of oil, oil
> coolers and air filters.
> On the subject of air filters...

So what air and oil filters do you use and recommend for us today in our
455s Gerry? I have only heard K&N talked about nostalgically on this
net.

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..." John said.