Advice - Front Suspension

[Agoogol]

So bear with me, not a mechanic here.

Odometer shows 63,000. Had my coach since Septemer of last year, and other than the maiden voyage of driving home, I have only driven it back and
forth to storage about 3 miles from my house. I have been mainly attacking leaks and interior issues first. So I finally got my coach in the air on
the front end, replaced exhaust manifold gasket and changed front tires, and did the old 12-6 movement test. Drivers side was minimal, but passenger,
well, have a look here:

https://youtu.be/ImiWK-Mux-U

So it appears, I would guess I have bad ball joint. I also don't know when the last time the wheel bearings were serviced. I have of course limited
time, space, money and resources for any mechnical work but I know I need to get it done. I just thought I would solicit some feedback on what is best
approach from here. I had planned on driving it 80 miles to a GMC mechanic friend, and had already bought the bearings. Now thinking maybe is the time
to switch to Lenzi knuckles so future zirk grease ability is easy. Can you approach it one side at a time and be ok? Should I take it apart and see
what I have to do, then order parts and try to minimize? Or should I just order all new everything, knuckles, hub, shocks, ball joints, and bite the
bullet? Anyone have a list of all part #'s and prices already assembled so I can drop it on my wife?

I have an email out to Dave Lenzi and am reaching out to mechanics nearby in my area, but not sure if anyone wants to tackle it on a motorhome.

Forgive my ignorance in my questions. I haven't done front end suspension work since I was 18 on my 1969 Mustang, and that was 30+ years ago.
--
Kevin Carter
1977 Kingsley
Centennial CO

 

[bd5av8r]

Check with the "Jims" on here and look into the 1 ton front end they both
offer.

It's a good improvement over stock.

Sammy

> So bear with me, not a mechanic here.
>
> Odometer shows 63,000. Had my coach since Septemer of last year, and other
> than the maiden voyage of driving home, I have only driven it back and
> forth to storage about 3 miles from my house. I have been mainly attacking
> leaks and interior issues first. So I finally got my coach in the air on
> the front end, replaced exhaust manifold gasket and changed front tires,
> and did the old 12-6 movement test. Drivers side was minimal, but passenger,
> well, have a look here:
>
> https://youtu.be/ImiWK-Mux-U
>
> So it appears, I would guess I have bad ball joint. I also don't know when
> the last time the wheel bearings were serviced. I have of course limited
> time, space, money and resources for any mechnical work but I know I need
> to get it done. I just thought I would solicit some feedback on what is best
> approach from here. I had planned on driving it 80 miles to a GMC mechanic
> friend, and had already bought the bearings. Now thinking maybe is the time
> to switch to Lenzi knuckles so future zirk grease ability is easy. Can you
> approach it one side at a time and be ok? Should I take it apart and see
> what I have to do, then order parts and try to minimize? Or should I just
> order all new everything, knuckles, hub, shocks, ball joints, and bite the
> bullet? Anyone have a list of all part #'s and prices already assembled so
> I can drop it on my wife?
>
> I have an email out to Dave Lenzi and am reaching out to mechanics nearby
> in my area, but not sure if anyone wants to tackle it on a motorhome.
>
> Forgive my ignorance in my questions. I haven't done front end suspension
> work since I was 18 on my 1969 Mustang, and that was 30+ years ago.
> --
> Kevin Carter
> 1977 Kingsley
> Centennial CO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[6cuda61]

DO NOT drive that....please. A mile to and fro at very careful slow speed to a shop or place to work as that is dangerous.

As for parts to replace, i guess it depends on your tool/knowledge and pocket book.....you're already into it for upper ball joints, you have bearings
already and in order to replace those 2 items you need to remove the knuckle so you're half way into the lower ball joints. I would also look at that
outer tie rod, it may just be optical because the ball joint is moving so much but it appeared to have a bit of play in it.

Sadly this is one of those tumbling affect things.....if your paying someone to do it, they have the knuckle off, the upper is bad and for few more
dollars may as well get the bottoms done....now your wheels will stay on the bus. If your going to pull hubs and replace bearings i'd do the brake
rotors if they are in the minimum spec end as i wouldn't want to pull hubs again down the road....but that's me.

As for replacing knuckles.....if you can get then from Lenzi cheaper than you can get the bearings done at a shop i'd say go for it...you may be able
to save a few bucks by doing the ball joints yourself which make changing the knuckle part of it [maybe with a bit of local help even]. Or if you have
to pay to have it done you may be able to reduce the costs by discussing with the shop that you are going to drop off assemble pieces and you would
like a combined replacement part estimate [combined jobs cost less than piece per piece]

Sorry probably not much help in the end, although i can do the work myself i would still be in the same boat as you trying to see were to drop the
line.....

--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

 

[6cuda61]

As far as a one ton swap? Do the math....see what's cheaper, what you can do verse pay to have done and what you can afford....you'll hear people say
" it will save you money later" " the bearings are bigger and better" etc.....perhaps but done correctly what you have will also last a long long time
as well....JMHO

(and no i have nothing against the one ton swap i case anyone is reading into this)
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

 

[sgltrac]

It looks like a loose bearing to me. I don’t see any movement from the
spindle. Might inspect bearings for lube then set tension and drive it to
your buddy carefully.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 2:58 PM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist <

> As far as a one ton swap? Do the math....see what's cheaper, what you can
> do verse pay to have done and what you can afford....you'll hear people say
> " it will save you money later" " the bearings are bigger and better"
> etc.....perhaps but done correctly what you have will also last a long long
> time
> as well....JMHO
>
> (and no i have nothing against the one ton swap i case anyone is reading
> into this)
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[john r. lebetski]

Bearing
The knuckle is not moving.
Furthermore even if lower balljoint is bad, with no jack under the control arm it will be loaded by torsion bar spring and not be wiggleable by hand.

Front end needs to also be fully examined. GMCEast has a writeup by Rob Mueller that will take you step by step to verify all front end parts.
Usually it’s just a couple bad parts and the rest are fine if greased. Don’t throw out the baby with the bath water.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[sgltrac]

What John said. Best case you need bearings and worst case is unknown.
Control arm bushings can look bad from external inspection but be fine. You
require a competent diagnostic. There are not many folks left who
understand these dated suspensions. Find the best closest guy an get it to
him.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 4:56 PM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

> Bearing
> The knuckle is not moving.
> Furthermore even if lower balljoint is bad, with no jack under the control
> arm it will be loaded by torsion bar spring and not be wiggleable by hand.
>
> Front end needs to also be fully examined. GMCEast has a writeup by Rob
> Mueller that will take you step by step to verify all front end parts.
> Usually it’s just a couple bad parts and the rest are fine if greased.
> Don’t throw out the baby with the bath water.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Larry Davick]

I’m a believer in safety first. Still I chucked an INSANE amount of money on the front end at Jim K’s place with mixed results. I took his advise and stayed with the stock setup and they tried to get as much caster as possible. It’s not enough. New tires - granted they are Firestone Transforce tires, but it should be better than new. At least I’m assured it’s safe - with all the new parts and expert installation.

Keep it safe first, then make it fun. But once it’s safe USE IT. The memories don’t care about headliners and faded paint.

Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, CA
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Distributor

 

[Matt Colie]

Kevin,

I was going to stay out of this, but I simply cannot.

Many people are under the false impression that Dave Lenzi does less than an amazing rebuild. I can tell you very first hand that this is not the
case. Dave has studied the problems and then set out to correct what GM slacked off on. He could describe the problems to all of you, but with the
exception of those with a lot of machine shop and manufacturing experience, you will be lost at the value of what he does and how he does it. There
are two parts of his rebuild that are done a way that is more difficult than might be, but he feels that the improvement in the final result is worth
the effort. When I asked him what the service life of his re-worked knuckles was, he said that by the Timken book, the bearing are easily a 100k
application. The problems are all in GM's application. He fixes that and the built in front disc runout.

If I did not have other things to do today or I would like to go over just the part of this that I know. I don't have that much time. Simply put,
Dave corrects all those issues. That is why his honest answer to the above question was that he did not know. He knows that there are some of his
sets out there still with over 100k on them. He has never seen one that ran out its service life.

When you mount Dave Lenzi knukles, that then becomes a maintenance only issue. So, worry about the lower ball joints.

I also am now a proponent of three maintenance improvements that have served me well.
First is the grease. Valvoline Syn-Pro with moly. I have found it as low 7$us a tube (VV985) but have often paid more.
Second is the Zerk coupler. Look for a thing called Lock and Lube. It will go on easily and stay on until released.
Third is the grease gun. One handed is easier if you are working under a jacked up coach, but you have to have good grip strength. I am currently
using a Lincoln number that was not cheap, but this was after failing several of the Cheap Chinese Versions from Hazard Fright.

When you are fighting with this and reluctant to spend money on grease and tools, just put in perspective against a full tank of fuel or the cost of
replacing parts. Tools grease win every time.

Matt - going out to do some work on his coach

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[adolph santorine]

Matt:

I concur 100%.

Grease is cheap, parts and labor not so much.

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress”

|[ ]~~~[][ ][] \
"--OO--[]---O-"

>
> Kevin,
>
> I was going to stay out of this, but I simply cannot.
>
> Many people are under the false impression that Dave Lenzi does less than an amazing rebuild. I can tell you very first hand that this is not the
> case. Dave has studied the problems and then set out to correct what GM slacked off on. He could describe the problems to all of you, but with the
> exception of those with a lot of machine shop and manufacturing experience, you will be lost at the value of what he does and how he does it. There
> are two parts of his rebuild that are done a way that is more difficult than might be, but he feels that the improvement in the final result is worth
> the effort. When I asked him what the service life of his re-worked knuckles was, he said that by the Timken book, the bearing are easily a 100k
> application. The problems are all in GM's application. He fixes that and the built in front disc runout.
>
> If I did not have other things to do today or I would like to go over just the part of this that I know. I don't have that much time. Simply put,
> Dave corrects all those issues. That is why his honest answer to the above question was that he did not know. He knows that there are some of his
> sets out there still with over 100k on them. He has never seen one that ran out its service life.
>
> When you mount Dave Lenzi knukles, that then becomes a maintenance only issue. So, worry about the lower ball joints.
>
> I also am now a proponent of three maintenance improvements that have served me well.
> First is the grease. Valvoline Syn-Pro with moly. I have found it as low 7$us a tube (VV985) but have often paid more.
> Second is the Zerk coupler. Look for a thing called Lock and Lube. It will go on easily and stay on until released.
> Third is the grease gun. One handed is easier if you are working under a jacked up coach, but you have to have good grip strength. I am currently
> using a Lincoln number that was not cheap, but this was after failing several of the Cheap Chinese Versions from Hazard Fright.
>
> When you are fighting with this and reluctant to spend money on grease and tools, just put in perspective against a full tank of fuel or the cost of
> replacing parts. Tools grease win every time.
>
> Matt - going out to do some work on his coach
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[6cuda61]

I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder how many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other question i
have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease doesnt just
evaporate.
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

 

[Jim Hupy]

Dave PERMANENTLY fixes the hubs and knuckles, and tries up the rotors while
he is at it. No question. They are the greatest. But, the old Achilles
heel still exists. The lower control arm and ball joint. That is one
pee-poor design for a heavy vehicle like the motorhome. It was ok for an
Olds Toronado, which it was designed for, but, highly stressed in motorhome
use. The torsion bar socket also sucks.
I cannot begin to list the number of those control arms I have seen in
absolutely frightening condition.
If there were a suitable upgrade for that control arm/ball joint
combination, I would use it along with Dave's hubs and knuckles, rather
than the 1 ton conversion. But, alas, there is not. So, I have limited
options to upgrade the front suspension. Just the reality of the situation,
I guess. Notice that I made NO REFERENCE to costs here. You all can run
your own pencils here.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 7:14 AM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist
wrote:

> I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder how
> many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other question
> i
> have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go
> somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease doesnt
> just
> evaporate.
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Irish Rogue]

Kevin C.:
See Bob Dunahugh’s (a GMC MH expert) thoughts re: 1 ton front end. I tend to agree w/ him and would upgrade the existing sys.
Mike/the Corvair a holic
P S Dave Lenzi is another GMC expert!

Sent from my iPhone

>
> So bear with me, not a mechanic here.
>
> Odometer shows 63,000. Had my coach since Septemer of last year, and other than the maiden voyage of driving home, I have only driven it back and
> forth to storage about 3 miles from my house. I have been mainly attacking leaks and interior issues first. So I finally got my coach in the air on
> the front end, replaced exhaust manifold gasket and changed front tires, and did the old 12-6 movement test. Drivers side was minimal, but passenger,
> well, have a look here:
>
> https://youtu.be/ImiWK-Mux-U
>
> So it appears, I would guess I have bad ball joint. I also don't know when the last time the wheel bearings were serviced. I have of course limited
> time, space, money and resources for any mechnical work but I know I need to get it done. I just thought I would solicit some feedback on what is best
> approach from here. I had planned on driving it 80 miles to a GMC mechanic friend, and had already bought the bearings. Now thinking maybe is the time
> to switch to Lenzi knuckles so future zirk grease ability is easy. Can you approach it one side at a time and be ok? Should I take it apart and see
> what I have to do, then order parts and try to minimize? Or should I just order all new everything, knuckles, hub, shocks, ball joints, and bite the
> bullet? Anyone have a list of all part #'s and prices already assembled so I can drop it on my wife?
>
> I have an email out to Dave Lenzi and am reaching out to mechanics nearby in my area, but not sure if anyone wants to tackle it on a motorhome.
>
> Forgive my ignorance in my questions. I haven't done front end suspension work since I was 18 on my 1969 Mustang, and that was 30+ years ago.
> --
> Kevin Carter
> 1977 Kingsley
> Centennial CO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Ken H.]

It is absolutely essential, when greasing GMC knuckles through a Zerk
fitting, to loosen the axle nut about 1/8" and push the stub axle inboard
by that distance. That allows the old grease to flow past the inner grease
seal. Without those steps, your concern is justified: the pressure will
blow that inner seal.

Ken "Installed Zerks in May 2000" H.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 10:14 AM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist <

> I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder how
> many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other question
> i
> have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go
> somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease doesnt
> just
> evaporate.
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[LarryW]

> I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder how many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other
> question i have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease
> doesnt just evaporate.

IIRC, Dave does not modify the seals. To use the grease zirk that Dave puts on the knuckles without blowing the seals out, you MUST jack coach up,
secure on stands or supports of some kind, and remove the wheel. Loosen the center axle nut so that only a few threads are on. Push the axle in as far
as you can against the axle nut. Now the seal has cleared off of the sealing surface. Now when you put grease through the zirk, the grease has
someplace to go without pushing the seal out of its set point. Grease until you see new clean grease coming out around the axle seal surface. Crank
the axle nut back into place. Put the wheel back on and lower the coach. Tighten the axle nut to appropriate spec'd torque. I do this once a year
before our winter trip to the south. Comes to about 12K miles/year. I think that 25K miles is what is recommended.

What Matt and others have said about Daves rebuild knuckles is true. They are precision machined and the best you can get anywhere. The knuckles are
expensive, but put them on once, and the only thing you need to do is the annual or 25K service. WAY worth the trouble and expense.

Some have...to save money...chosen to remove the knuckle and bearings from the knuckle and regrease them. But every time you remove the bearing races,
you do a little damage to the knuckle so that eventually the races are no longer a friction fit. Those races can then spin in the knuckle leading to
failure. The zirk allows you to push old grease out, and new grease in without having to take it apart damaging the knuckle. JMHO

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[dave stragand1]

For many race and custom applications, I have seen tubular or solid-bar
control arms replacing the stamped steel originals. Has anyone ever
investigated these as an option?

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
James Hupy via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 10:52 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: James Hupy
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Advice - Front Suspension

Dave PERMANENTLY fixes the hubs and knuckles, and tries up the rotors
while
he is at it. No question. They are the greatest. But, the old Achilles
heel still exists. The lower control arm and ball joint. That is one
pee-poor design for a heavy vehicle like the motorhome. It was ok for an
Olds Toronado, which it was designed for, but, highly stressed in
motorhome
use. The torsion bar socket also sucks.
I cannot begin to list the number of those control arms I have seen
in
absolutely frightening condition.
If there were a suitable upgrade for that control arm/ball joint
combination, I would use it along with Dave's hubs and knuckles, rather
than the 1 ton conversion. But, alas, there is not. So, I have limited
options to upgrade the front suspension. Just the reality of the
situation,
I guess. Notice that I made NO REFERENCE to costs here. You all can run
your own pencils here.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 7:14 AM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist

wrote:

> I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder
how
> many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other
question
> i
> have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go
> somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease
doesnt
> just
> evaporate.
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

Steve Ferguson used to do seminars on suspension and steering on the GMC,
and he went to great lengths to reinforce the lower control arms. Places to
weld for strengthening the torsion bar socket and the tip where the ball
joint is. Also how to r & r the bushings. Lots of other tricks, too. Thos
videos are still around, someplace. Mostly at GMCWS rallies.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 11:19 AM Dave Stragand via Gmclist <

> For many race and custom applications, I have seen tubular or solid-bar
> control arms replacing the stamped steel originals. Has anyone ever
> investigated these as an option?
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> James Hupy via Gmclist
> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 10:52 AM
> To: gmclist
> Cc: James Hupy
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Advice - Front Suspension
>
> Dave PERMANENTLY fixes the hubs and knuckles, and tries up the rotors
> while
> he is at it. No question. They are the greatest. But, the old Achilles
> heel still exists. The lower control arm and ball joint. That is one
> pee-poor design for a heavy vehicle like the motorhome. It was ok for an
> Olds Toronado, which it was designed for, but, highly stressed in
> motorhome
> use. The torsion bar socket also sucks.
> I cannot begin to list the number of those control arms I have seen
> in
> absolutely frightening condition.
> If there were a suitable upgrade for that control arm/ball joint
> combination, I would use it along with Dave's hubs and knuckles, rather
> than the 1 ton conversion. But, alas, there is not. So, I have limited
> options to upgrade the front suspension. Just the reality of the
> situation,
> I guess. Notice that I made NO REFERENCE to costs here. You all can run
> your own pencils here.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 7:14 AM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist
>

>
> > I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder
> how
> > many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other
> question
> > i
> > have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go
> > somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease
> doesnt
> > just
> > evaporate.
> > --
> > Rich Mondor,
> >
> > Brockville, ON
> >
> > 77 Hughes 2600
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[6cuda61]

Ive been thinking about doing a set but i'm caught between 2 rocks...when i have time the WHMBO has other things for me to do or im on the road
working. I will get to it but no timeline.

> For many race and custom applications, I have seen tubular or solid-bar
> control arms replacing the stamped steel originals. Has anyone ever
> investigated these as an option?
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
> James Hupy via Gmclist
> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 10:52 AM
> To: gmclist
> Cc: James Hupy
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Advice - Front Suspension
>
> Dave PERMANENTLY fixes the hubs and knuckles, and tries up the rotors
> while
> he is at it. No question. They are the greatest. But, the old Achilles
> heel still exists. The lower control arm and ball joint. That is one
> pee-poor design for a heavy vehicle like the motorhome. It was ok for an
> Olds Toronado, which it was designed for, but, highly stressed in
> motorhome
> use. The torsion bar socket also sucks.
> I cannot begin to list the number of those control arms I have seen
> in
> absolutely frightening condition.
> If there were a suitable upgrade for that control arm/ball joint
> combination, I would use it along with Dave's hubs and knuckles, rather
> than the 1 ton conversion. But, alas, there is not. So, I have limited
> options to upgrade the front suspension. Just the reality of the
> situation,
> I guess. Notice that I made NO REFERENCE to costs here. You all can run
> your own pencils here.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 7:14 AM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist
>

>
> > I love what Dave L does with the knuckles but i cant help but wonder
> how
> > many owners blow out the seals over-greasing that setup. The other
> question
> > i
> > have is does Dave modify the seals at all? The new grease has to go
> > somewere and the old grease or air has to come out as good grease
> doesnt
> > just
> > evaporate.
> > --
> > Rich Mondor,
> >
> > Brockville, ON
> >
> > 77 Hughes 2600
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
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> >
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--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

 

[Agoogol]

I just want to say thanks to everyone. This is truly a great community, with many very smart people and experienced people, willing to take their time
and share their wisdom. I am in communication with the Fantastic Mr Lenzi now, and will be going that direction. Now to find a close enough safe
location to do the work, and beg my people for the help needed, and a bearing puller to borrow here in CO. Onward!
--
Kevin Carter
1977 Kingsley
Centennial CO

 

[Ken H.]

If you're going to buy Dave Lenzi's parts, you needn't worry about a
bearing tool. You'll receive from him complete hubs & knuckles with
bearings and seals properly installed. DO NOT disturb them.

Ken H.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 4:39 PM KC via Gmclist
wrote:

> I just want to say thanks to everyone. This is truly a great community,
> with many very smart people and experienced people, willing to take their
> time
> and share their wisdom. I am in communication with the Fantastic Mr Lenzi
> now, and will be going that direction. Now to find a close enough safe
> location to do the work, and beg my people for the help needed, and a
> bearing puller to borrow here in CO. Onward!
> --
> Kevin Carter
> 1977 Kingsley
> Centennial CO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>