Gene,
Duhhhhh! Would you believe that I worked in the advanced electronics
field for 26 years in the Navy? A simple AC/DC circuit manages to kick
my butt!
There are a lot of different mufflers that will work. The Camaro &
Trans Am ones have the input & output on the same side. I replaced my
dump tube with that nifty setup that Jim bounds sells & picked up some
extra clearance in the rear. It eliminates the need for separate hose
storage and, if you install it like I did, it exits the dump/hose out
the rear drivers side of the coach. You do not need to use this setup
in order for a rear muffler system to work, I'm just throwing in the
info because that's how mine is set up.
It sounds like the combiner switch is the way to go. The 40 unit can
handle a jell battery, but not a combination of the two types at the
same time. I'll just switch my coach battery with a regular one.
Thanks for the help. I'm going to try to get to that job today, after
I install the dinette set I bought from one of the digest members in
L.A. last weekend. Finished the suburban install last night. Soooo
quiet & works sooo well & can be removed in 5 minutes for service.
Well, maybe 10 minutes.
Steve
Thanks for info on the Muffler, I was just going to ask you what you
used.
I am looking for a shop to do the work just now. I am ready. Did you
have
any trouble missing the dump pipe ??
The DC comes from the same connections as it always did. The converter
will supply up to 40 amps of DC while you are connected to AC. This is
just like when you are running the engine and the alternator supplies
the
current for the lights etc. The current all comes from the same place
it
is just that the charger will supply the current up to its limit.
Is it only the Plus that will handle the Jell cells?? I guess that is
in
your specifications.
Wires
The wires to the Buzz box are just moved to the new converter. The only
problem is the engine battery. You will need to run a new wire from the
charger/converter up to the engine battery.
I use a Todd which only is set to handle one battery. However I
replaced
my diode isolator with a Combiner (see web page) this way, when the
coach
battery gets full, the combiner operates and the engine battery is
connected to the coach battery and therefor to the charger
automatically.
So I did not have to run any extra wires. You could also do this if you
wanted to and not connect the second output of your charger or run any
new
wires.
gene
Duhhhhh! Would you believe that I worked in the advanced electronics
field for 26 years in the Navy? A simple AC/DC circuit manages to kick
my butt!
There are a lot of different mufflers that will work. The Camaro &
Trans Am ones have the input & output on the same side. I replaced my
dump tube with that nifty setup that Jim bounds sells & picked up some
extra clearance in the rear. It eliminates the need for separate hose
storage and, if you install it like I did, it exits the dump/hose out
the rear drivers side of the coach. You do not need to use this setup
in order for a rear muffler system to work, I'm just throwing in the
info because that's how mine is set up.
It sounds like the combiner switch is the way to go. The 40 unit can
handle a jell battery, but not a combination of the two types at the
same time. I'll just switch my coach battery with a regular one.
Thanks for the help. I'm going to try to get to that job today, after
I install the dinette set I bought from one of the digest members in
L.A. last weekend. Finished the suburban install last night. Soooo
quiet & works sooo well & can be removed in 5 minutes for service.
Well, maybe 10 minutes.
Steve
Thanks for info on the Muffler, I was just going to ask you what you
used.
I am looking for a shop to do the work just now. I am ready. Did you
have
any trouble missing the dump pipe ??
The DC comes from the same connections as it always did. The converter
will supply up to 40 amps of DC while you are connected to AC. This is
just like when you are running the engine and the alternator supplies
the
current for the lights etc. The current all comes from the same place
it
is just that the charger will supply the current up to its limit.
Is it only the Plus that will handle the Jell cells?? I guess that is
in
your specifications.
Wires
The wires to the Buzz box are just moved to the new converter. The only
problem is the engine battery. You will need to run a new wire from the
charger/converter up to the engine battery.
I use a Todd which only is set to handle one battery. However I
replaced
my diode isolator with a Combiner (see web page) this way, when the
coach
battery gets full, the combiner operates and the engine battery is
connected to the coach battery and therefor to the charger
automatically.
So I did not have to run any extra wires. You could also do this if you
wanted to and not connect the second output of your charger or run any
new
wires.
gene
