About front (engine) frames...

[Matt Colie]

Well, Between lasers and point targets and stick rules and tripods and things, I have found what got bent.

It is the front (sometimes here called clip) and it is bent such that I can't bring the porta-power to bear and straighten it with the engine in the
way. As there is lots else that needs attention, I am thinking to acquire a front frame and just swap it in there. I had this out to put the engine
back in, so there should be no surprises.

Question: Is there any difference that anybody knows of between years or anything that might make this a big issue?
I remember reading that new coaches could set more caster, but I paid little attention as it was no issue to me at that time. I have several local
possibilities, and I may get to make a choice.

Matt (I would like to get the ride height down from 27" sometime.)

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[jim kanomata1]

Matt,
If you have a choice, use one fro 1976-78.
Check for battery acid decay.

On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 3:42 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> Well, Between lasers and point targets and stick rules and tripods and
> things, I have found what got bent.
>
> It is the front (sometimes here called clip) and it is bent such that I
> can't bring the porta-power to bear and straighten it with the engine in the
> way. As there is lots else that needs attention, I am thinking to acquire
> a front frame and just swap it in there. I had this out to put the engine
> back in, so there should be no surprises.
>
> Question: Is there any difference that anybody knows of between years or
> anything that might make this a big issue?
> I remember reading that new coaches could set more caster, but I paid
> little attention as it was no issue to me at that time. I have several
> local
> possibilities, and I may get to make a choice.
>
> Matt (I would like to get the ride height down from 27" sometime.)
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[jim d.]

Matt,
If I may make one suggestion before you cut and swap any pieces out. I’ve been straightening frames out for a while now with the help of some great digital equipment. Before you remove any frame sections. Trying to straighten the frame before hand to get it close to its factory location will help immensely in “splicing” in any new sections of frame/subframe. Metal does want to go back to where it came from some with more persistence than others. You’d be surprised at how far damage travels in a frame even at low impacts. I’m sure you’ve measured all sorts of things at this point but a big indicator of further damage would be measuring the front wheel hubs to the rear wheel hub or another fixed point and make sure those numbers correspond. If not you might have a diamond frame.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Matt,
> If you have a choice, use one fro 1976-78.
> Check for battery acid decay.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 3:42 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

>
>> Well, Between lasers and point targets and stick rules and tripods and
>> things, I have found what got bent.
>>
>> It is the front (sometimes here called clip) and it is bent such that I
>> can't bring the porta-power to bear and straighten it with the engine in the
>> way. As there is lots else that needs attention, I am thinking to acquire
>> a front frame and just swap it in there. I had this out to put the engine
>> back in, so there should be no surprises.
>>
>> Question: Is there any difference that anybody knows of between years or
>> anything that might make this a big issue?
>> I remember reading that new coaches could set more caster, but I paid
>> little attention as it was no issue to me at that time. I have several
>> local
>> possibilities, and I may get to make a choice.
>>
>> Matt (I would like to get the ride height down from 27" sometime.)
>>
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[hal stclair]

Matt, there were some minor differences in braces/locations but later should be better. The early frames had a different thread pitch than the later
ones (can't remember which had the fine thread for the life of me) on the relay lever nut boss. That bolt can be a real bear to remove BTW. Other than
that you should be good to go.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM

 

[Matt Colie]

> Matt,
> If I may make one suggestion before you cut and swap any pieces out. I've been straightening frames out for a while now with the help of some
> great digital equipment. Before you remove any frame sections. Trying to straighten the frame before hand to get it close to its factory location
> will help immensely in "splicing" in any new sections of frame/subframe. Metal does want to go back to where it came from some with more persistence
> than others. You'd be surprised at how far damage travels in a frame even at low impacts. I'm sure you've measured all sorts of things at this point
> but a big indicator of further damage would be measuring the front wheel hubs to the rear wheel hub or another fixed point and make sure those
> numbers correspond. If not you might have a diamond frame.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC "Palm Beach" ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and
> unusual parts of the country.

Wow Jim,

That is a lot of typing to do on a iPhone....
I had not planned to "splice" any frame. The engine subframe aka clip is relatively easily removed from the coach with all the important parts
attached. That is what I did when I did a very serious rebuild of my engine just last year.

I have successfully straighten vehicles before. There are two big differences this time. For the others I had the manufactures frame data set so I
had the target dimensions sitting right there. The other is that this will require measurements that have to bridge the engine/transmission. If I
have to take the engine out again, and I can find another good frame, the swap could be easier and faster both. I have several offers of both but at
locations that are far enough to make collecting them and issue.

Oh yeah, the main ladder frame (what I thought was bent) is actually in great shape. I had expected that it was "tweaked" like so many old pickups
that "dog track". It is not. The only thing GM gave us was the diagonals, and no numbers for that. Just the note that these measurement should be
equal within 1/4 inch. (I would like to tell someone how much help that is...)

When this is over, and now that I have some fancy measuring equipment, I may just publish the numbers just in the case that they may help another
owner.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[jim d.]

Mr Colie,
Again I’m never surprised of the vast knowledge the folks of this community have. Clearly you don’t need my .02. Haha. Best of luck on your repairs and hopefully you guys are back on the road quickly.

Sent from my iPhone

>

>> Matt,
>> If I may make one suggestion before you cut and swap any pieces out. I've been straightening frames out for a while now with the help of some
>> great digital equipment. Before you remove any frame sections. Trying to straighten the frame before hand to get it close to its factory location
>> will help immensely in "splicing" in any new sections of frame/subframe. Metal does want to go back to where it came from some with more persistence
>> than others. You'd be surprised at how far damage travels in a frame even at low impacts. I'm sure you've measured all sorts of things at this point
>> but a big indicator of further damage would be measuring the front wheel hubs to the rear wheel hub or another fixed point and make sure those
>> numbers correspond. If not you might have a diamond frame.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis NH natives 1975 GMC "Palm Beach" ,455, her names Linda Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and
>> unusual parts of the country.
>
> Wow Jim,
>
> That is a lot of typing to do on a iPhone....
> I had not planned to "splice" any frame. The engine subframe aka clip is relatively easily removed from the coach with all the important parts
> attached. That is what I did when I did a very serious rebuild of my engine just last year.
>
> I have successfully straighten vehicles before. There are two big differences this time. For the others I had the manufactures frame data set so I
> had the target dimensions sitting right there. The other is that this will require measurements that have to bridge the engine/transmission. If I
> have to take the engine out again, and I can find another good frame, the swap could be easier and faster both. I have several offers of both but at
> locations that are far enough to make collecting them and issue.
>
> Oh yeah, the main ladder frame (what I thought was bent) is actually in great shape. I had expected that it was "tweaked" like so many old pickups
> that "dog track". It is not. The only thing GM gave us was the diagonals, and no numbers for that. Just the note that these measurement should be
> equal within 1/4 inch. (I would like to tell someone how much help that is...)
>
> When this is over, and now that I have some fancy measuring equipment, I may just publish the numbers just in the case that they may help another
> owner.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Matt Colie]

> Mr Colie,
> Again I'm never surprised of the vast knowledge the folks of this community have. Clearly you don't need my .02. Haha. Best of luck on your
> repairs and hopefully you guys are back on the road quickly.

Jimmy,

All discussion is welcome here. Not everybody has heard everything.

And, I may be old, but to my friends, I am Matt.

Thanks

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit