AAH OOH

D

darren paget

New member
Oct 28, 1998
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This sounds pretty ugly Scott. I feel for you buddy. This is one of the problems
with torx head screws. The head is so strong that it will strip out the hole
before it will do what tit is supposed to. I was lucky when I did mine and only
stripped off one head out of two sides. Unfortunately there really is no good
answer to your problem. If it was me I think that I would just preserver. It is
easy to replace the screw that has been stripped out by just drilling a new hole
beside the old and putting the new screw in. When the drip rail is on it is
almost impossible to everyone but you to notice the new screw placement. Trust me,
this was the case with mine. Sorry I don't have a better solution for you.
Darren Good luck to you..

> Not having fun anymore, need been there done that advice. I am trying to
> remove the drip rail along the passenger side, I have stripped two screw heads
> so far out of 4. I have used Mothers rust buster, hammered them, tightened
> them, and used a large soldering iron to apply heat. I have not pi5555 on the
> yet; however, I have spit on them. Any other suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
> Scott Nehoda Adohen
 
oops typo. do what it's supposed to do Sorry Darren

> This sounds pretty ugly Scott. I feel for you buddy. This is one of the problems
> with torx head screws. The head is so strong that it will strip out the hole
> before it will do what tit is supposed to. I was lucky when I did mine and only
> stripped off one head out of two sides. Unfortunately there really is no good
> answer to your problem. If it was me I think that I would just preserver. It is
> easy to replace the screw that has been stripped out by just drilling a new hole
> beside the old and putting the new screw in. When the drip rail is on it is
> almost impossible to everyone but you to notice the new screw placement. Trust me,
> this was the case with mine. Sorry I don't have a better solution for you.
> Darren Good luck to you..
>

>
> > Not having fun anymore, need been there done that advice. I am trying to
> > remove the drip rail along the passenger side, I have stripped two screw heads
> > so far out of 4. I have used Mothers rust buster, hammered them, tightened
> > them, and used a large soldering iron to apply heat. I have not pi5555 on the
> > yet; however, I have spit on them. Any other suggestions would be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Scott Nehoda Adohen
 
Hi Scott,
I was lucky, Got them all out on one side except one.
By the time I got done Heating,Hitting,Cussing etc.
It was messed up around the Screw So I just pulled
the drip rail up using a prybar.Figured I could just
use a screw with a bigger head. I used vice grips
to remove the screw after the drip edge was off.
Talking about the dripedge, When I reinstalled it I
thought it seams kind of flimsy. Like maybe it doesnt
tighten down enough between the screws. Maybe We need
to reexamine this. Any thoughts on this?
Also haven't done the other side yet! Are the drip rails
available new. When I get the coach repainted I would
like to replace those.
Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert ( Dormant Custom )

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Adohen
> Sent: Saturday, December 12, 1998 8:56 AM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: GMC: AAH OOH
>
>
>
> Not having fun anymore, need been there done that advice. I
> am trying to
> remove the drip rail along the passenger side, I have stripped
> two screw heads
> so far out of 4. I have used Mothers rust buster, hammered them, tightened
> them, and used a large soldering iron to apply heat. I have not
> pi5555 on the
> yet; however, I have spit on them. Any other suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
> Scott Nehoda Adohen
>
 
Scott

Use a hacksaw to cut a STRAIGHT slot into the top of the
screw. Then you can use a flathead screwdriver to get a
better grip.

This worked for me on all but two screws in my drip rail
those I was forced to drill out.

Mike F

>>
>>
>> Not having fun anymore, need been there done that advice.
>> I am trying to
>> remove the drip rail along the passenger side, I have stripped
>> two screw heads
>> so far out of 4. I have used Mothers rust buster, hammered
>> them, tightened
>> them, and used a large soldering iron to apply heat. I have
>> not pi5555 on the
>> yet; however, I have spit on them. Any other suggestions would be
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Scott Nehoda Adohen
>>
 
Forgot to tell you Scott. When you do finally get to replace the drip edge, use
new screws. If possible use a philips head or hex head stainless. These types
of screws will wear out in its head before you spin the head off or strip out
the hole. I'm sure you know to make sure your new pilot hole for the new screw
is big enough also. Darren

> In a message dated 12/12/98 12:54:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,

>
> > Any thoughts on this?
>
> Hi Rob!
>
> No thoughts yet -- brain dead-- when I get it up and running-- I'll post it.
>
> Scott Nehoda Adohen
 
It is very important that the "T" extension on the drip rail sits back squarely
in the slot of the main beam. If this is so the drip rail should go back down
tightly to the body. Also make sure you replace the putty or sealant or
whatever you are using to have a good water tight seal of the drip edge. If
these two things are not done correctly you will have water leakage. Darren

> Hi Scott,
> I was lucky, Got them all out on one side except one.
> By the time I got done Heating,Hitting,Cussing etc.
> It was messed up around the Screw So I just pulled
> the drip rail up using a prybar.Figured I could just
> use a screw with a bigger head. I used vice grips
> to remove the screw after the drip edge was off.
> Talking about the dripedge, When I reinstalled it I
> thought it seams kind of flimsy. Like maybe it doesnt
> tighten down enough between the screws. Maybe We need
> to reexamine this. Any thoughts on this?
> Also haven't done the other side yet! Are the drip rails
> available new. When I get the coach repainted I would
> like to replace those.
> Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert ( Dormant Custom )
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> > [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Adohen
> > Sent: Saturday, December 12, 1998 8:56 AM
> > To: gmcmotorhome
> > Subject: GMC: AAH OOH
> >
> >
> >
> > Not having fun anymore, need been there done that advice. I
> > am trying to
> > remove the drip rail along the passenger side, I have stripped
> > two screw heads
> > so far out of 4. I have used Mothers rust buster, hammered them, tightened
> > them, and used a large soldering iron to apply heat. I have not
> > pi5555 on the
> > yet; however, I have spit on them. Any other suggestions would be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Scott Nehoda Adohen
> >
 
How about a high powered laser? Melt the devils

>Scott
>
>BTDT the problem is I gave up. Worked on 8 screws got 2 out. Broke
>3 impact driver bits. NAPA would not the third one so I gave up. I have
>been waiting for someone to come up with a plan for C4 or DOC cord.
>With that you could blow the DA** things off.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>>
>> Not having fun anymore, need been there done that advice. I am trying
>> to
>> remove the drip rail along the passenger side, I have stripped two screw
>> heads
>> so far out of 4. I have used Mothers rust buster, hammered them, tightened
>> them, and used a large soldering iron to apply heat. I have not pi5555 on
>> the
>> yet; however, I have spit on them. Any other suggestions would be
>> appreciated.
>>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
 
Arch,

We got all the screws out (broke the heads off of 2 or 3 of them). We
didn't do anything special though so I don't think we will be of any help.
All we used was a ratchet screwdriver that was L shaped so more twisting
leverage could be applied than with a normal handled screwdriver. We don't
have an impact screw-driver so that wasn't an option for us. We didn't
take the rails off though. We only did it to replace the screws with
stainless screws so they would look better, wouldn't rust, and would be
easier to get out the next time.

Just a thought, but ours is a '73. Maybe they used different screws in
different years? One other person noted that they got most out and broke
the heads off the ones they couldn't. What year was that GMC? Anybody else?

This idea seems to make sense to me because more expensive screws would not
get messed up by screwdrivers and would be brittle due to higher tensile
strength causing them to break more easily. This is the situation we
seemed to have. I could see GM saving 5 cents per GMC later on in the
production by using cheaper screws which would be less likely to break and
more likely to be messed up by a screw-driver. I'm not sure what year your
GMC is, but wouldn't you just love it if all your grief was caused because
GM saved 5 cents on your GMC :)?

Zak

>Thomas
>
>Would love that too. I just dont like problems that beat me. Have been
>sitting here for some time waiting for someone to open this can of worms
>again. I could not do this one so was hoping someone knew the wizard
>of rails. Just dont think we have found him yet. There must be someone
>out there that is willing to take our money to make these things come off.
>Yes, I have been defeated by the rails. I am willing to pay some outrageous
>price to have them fixed by someone who knows more than me. This is
>my Waterloo. Therefore I will pay for the fix. I would bet most of you have
>met your Waterloo somewhere along the line. Thats what keeps our favorite
>suppliers alive. Sorry the semester is over I feel good.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>> How about a high powered laser? Melt the devils
>
 
Well, Arch, I wish I could step up, but I'll just creep for now. If the screws
are rusted in and there is no way you are going to get them out then you only have
two choices, as far as I can tell.
1. There is probably a way to cover over the drip rail with some type of
polymer or such. I am sure there is enough expertise to find an aesthetically
pleasing coating, with the people on this group alone..
2. Drill out the rotters and retap the hole.
If the drip rail gets damaged I'm not sure you will find a replacement and there
is no way to make it look good or work properly without the drip rail.
I now consider myself very lucky that I only had the one screw break for both
sides.
If you drill out the screws or cut off the heads it is possible to just move
the rail back a 1/4 inch and drill new holes. This will work. That is the
best I can do for you now. I'll try to find out more info from my sources here.
Good Luck. Darren

> Zak
>
> I dont know if mine are original or not but they are phillips head screws.
> I took the time to clean out the paint and rust from the slots. They just
> do not seem to want to budge. There has to be a rail guru out there. I
> will wait for his reply to all of this. Come on folks who is the rail guru?
>
> Take Care
> Arch 76 GB IL
> >
> > This idea seems to make sense to me because more expensive screws would not
> > get messed up by screwdrivers and would be brittle due to higher tensile
> > strength causing them to break more easily. This is the situation we
> > seemed to have. I could see GM saving 5 cents per GMC later on in the
> > production by using cheaper screws which would be less likely to break and
> > more likely to be messed up by a screw-driver. I'm not sure what year your
> > GMC is, but wouldn't you just love it if all your grief was caused because
> > GM saved 5 cents on your GMC :)?
> >
 
Arch,
I don't use a lazer but it would probobly speed up the process, I picked
up this thread a little late but if you are referring to the top side
rails, I do have experiance with the pesky little buggers! I keep saying
to mtself as I shorten my life working with them that it is all just a
dream and I'll wake up soon!

Drive over to Orlando, I'm game.

Jim Bounds
- --------------------------

>Thomas
>
>Would love that too. I just dont like problems that beat me. Have been
>sitting here for some time waiting for someone to open this can of worms
>again. I could not do this one so was hoping someone knew the wizard
>of rails. Just dont think we have found him yet. There must be someone
>out there that is willing to take our money to make these things come off.
>Yes, I have been defeated by the rails. I am willing to pay some outrageous
>price to have them fixed by someone who knows more than me. This is
>my Waterloo. Therefore I will pay for the fix. I would bet most of you have
>met your Waterloo somewhere along the line. Thats what keeps our favorite
>suppliers alive. Sorry the semester is over I feel good.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>> How about a high powered laser? Melt the devils
>
>
 
Arch,
"Rail Guru" sound a bit like I ride box cars but I am willing to do tough
stuff.

I have one in for paint right now that had the rails "glued" on with
Sickaflex adhesive. The coach was leaking like a siv, the rails had to
come off! They were pritzled but they came off. I'm going to use the
rials from the Transmode I just picked up to replace the twisted extrusion
and try a new idea on the Transmode.

Give me a fair warning when you are comming, I'll go out and buy a box of
Wheaties and build up my strength!

See ya,

Jim Bounds
- ------------------------

>Jim
>
>I told the folks here that I was looking for the rail guru. If you are him
>then I will be there. Just let me get this beast rolling and I will come down
>and see you.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>
>> Arch,
>> I don't use a lazer but it would probobly speed up the process, I picked
>> up this thread a little late but if you are referring to the top side
>> rails, I do have experiance with the pesky little buggers! I keep saying
>> to mtself as I shorten my life working with them that it is all just a
>> dream and I'll wake up soon!
>>
>> Drive over to Orlando, I'm game.
>>
>
>
 
Jim

I expect to see your "NEW" coach painted and with a new
interior at our January rally! If anyone can do it you can.
(grins)

Mike Finnicum
78 GMC Eleganza II
74 GMC 28 Stretch
Naples, FL
 
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