60 AMP C/B
- Thread starter randy1
- Start date
> Nope! The problem is a short downstream of the 60 A breaker. Comes and goes regardless of combiner. Very frustrating.
Randy,
We all hate intermittent things. But if you can get it to stay shorted at some point, you may be able to locate the short with a Hazard Fright signal
tracker. Other than that, I would just run a new wire.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Randy,
We all hate intermittent things. But if you can get it to stay shorted at some point, you may be able to locate the short with a Hazard Fright signal
tracker. Other than that, I would just run a new wire.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> I keep thinking it could be a faulty boost switch. Throwing parts at it gets expensive though.
Randy,
While this is true, each part can be removed and tested for function independently and that is very cost effective.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Randy,
While this is true, each part can be removed and tested for function independently and that is very cost effective.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
I had the same problem and found that the coach cable that runs from the combiner across the front of the coach had deteriorated insulation due to the heat and air pollution, and 40 years of service. Replaced the cable across the front of the coach, crimped a couple of terminals on the wire and used a Waytek terminal stud to make up the splice. If I had the time I would replace the wire complete, no splices. Don't know yet how to work on this thing yet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Colie"
To: gmclist
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 8:02:54 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] 60 AMP C/B
> Nope! The problem is a short downstream of the 60 A breaker. Comes and goes regardless of combiner. Very frustrating.
Randy,
We all hate intermittent things. But if you can get it to stay shorted at some point, you may be able to locate the short with a Hazard Fright signal
tracker. Other than that, I would just run a new wire.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Colie"
To: gmclist
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 8:02:54 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] 60 AMP C/B
> Nope! The problem is a short downstream of the 60 A breaker. Comes and goes regardless of combiner. Very frustrating.
Randy,
We all hate intermittent things. But if you can get it to stay shorted at some point, you may be able to locate the short with a Hazard Fright signal
tracker. Other than that, I would just run a new wire.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
So the temperature has been rising, but the problem seems no closer to resolution. The solenoid is brand new but once it latches, it does not unlatch
unless a battery is disconnected. The House and Starting battery share the same ground on the engine block. Originally the starting battery was
grounded to the block and the house was grounded to the frame.
I tried moving the combiner to the front and install it over top of the isolator. In this config it kept running sporadically on the overload
condition. Before, when it was set up to feed the house battery and genset battery it worked as it should in the combine mode.
Alternator output was about 14 volts and the Engine Starting battery is 13.7V and the House Battery is about 13.3V.
I opened all the House C/Bs. All I can think of now is a chafed wire or a common ground problem. Somehow power is being fed back through the house
system.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
unless a battery is disconnected. The House and Starting battery share the same ground on the engine block. Originally the starting battery was
grounded to the block and the house was grounded to the frame.
I tried moving the combiner to the front and install it over top of the isolator. In this config it kept running sporadically on the overload
condition. Before, when it was set up to feed the house battery and genset battery it worked as it should in the combine mode.
Alternator output was about 14 volts and the Engine Starting battery is 13.7V and the House Battery is about 13.3V.
I opened all the House C/Bs. All I can think of now is a chafed wire or a common ground problem. Somehow power is being fed back through the house
system.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
> So the temperature has been rising, but the problem seems no closer to resolution. The solenoid is brand new but once it latches, it does not
> unlatch unless a battery is disconnected. The House and Starting battery share the same ground on the engine block. Originally the starting battery
> was grounded to the block and the house was grounded to the frame.
>
> I tried moving the combiner to the front and install it over top of the isolator. In this config it kept running sporadically on the overload
> condition. Before, when it was set up to feed the house battery and genset battery it worked as it should in the combine mode.
>
> Alternator output was about 14 volts and the Engine Starting battery is 13.7V and the House Battery is about 13.3V.
>
> I opened all the House C/Bs. All I can think of now is a chafed wire or a common ground problem. Somehow power is being fed back through the house
> system.
Randy,
your description sounds very much like the contactor/solenoid that you have is a starter type. Those have two windings and one is a "hold in" that
goes from the energize terminal to either case ground and the other is the pull in that in connected to the energize terminal and what should be the
starter power terminal. If one of this type were properly mis-applied and mis-connected, it could do what you are seeing.
The contactor you what should only have a winding (continuity) between the two control (small) terminals. If there is a winding between either
control terminal and either of the heavy power connections, you got sold the wrong part.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> unlatch unless a battery is disconnected. The House and Starting battery share the same ground on the engine block. Originally the starting battery
> was grounded to the block and the house was grounded to the frame.
>
> I tried moving the combiner to the front and install it over top of the isolator. In this config it kept running sporadically on the overload
> condition. Before, when it was set up to feed the house battery and genset battery it worked as it should in the combine mode.
>
> Alternator output was about 14 volts and the Engine Starting battery is 13.7V and the House Battery is about 13.3V.
>
> I opened all the House C/Bs. All I can think of now is a chafed wire or a common ground problem. Somehow power is being fed back through the house
> system.
Randy,
your description sounds very much like the contactor/solenoid that you have is a starter type. Those have two windings and one is a "hold in" that
goes from the energize terminal to either case ground and the other is the pull in that in connected to the energize terminal and what should be the
starter power terminal. If one of this type were properly mis-applied and mis-connected, it could do what you are seeing.
The contactor you what should only have a winding (continuity) between the two control (small) terminals. If there is a winding between either
control terminal and either of the heavy power connections, you got sold the wrong part.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
This should be the final post on this topic. Went back to the original boost solenoid. My quest had been to not get continuity across the large lugs
of the boost solenoid with both batteries connected. When I disconnect the ground from the house batteries and everything else connected, the solenoid
behaves properly. When I check voltage across the respective terminals of the batteries and boost solenoid, I get their respective voltages when boost
switch is not in boost and common voltage when boost is selected. But regardless, there is continuity across the solenoid whenever both batteries are
connected. I'll have to see if both batteries deplete over time.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
of the boost solenoid with both batteries connected. When I disconnect the ground from the house batteries and everything else connected, the solenoid
behaves properly. When I check voltage across the respective terminals of the batteries and boost solenoid, I get their respective voltages when boost
switch is not in boost and common voltage when boost is selected. But regardless, there is continuity across the solenoid whenever both batteries are
connected. I'll have to see if both batteries deplete over time.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
