45 Amp Intelli-Power Converter Conversion Questions

P

perry barber

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Aug 31, 2016
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I posted the following at the back of the recent converter discussion but I thought I might get a response quicker if I started a new thread.

First a little background on the coach, it is a mid 90's Clasco conversion and has all the wiring connected to a distribution panel and then to power
circuit panel. The old converter is under rear cabinets and only accessible from the side and I will be reinstalling the new one there.

The linked photos shows my current converter connections. I identified the red power and ground wires that will connect to the new converter and the
receptacle for the plug. I haven't removed it so I don't know for sure if it has internal fuses but I've included an interior shot for discussion.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/old-converter/p62204-old-converter.html

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/old-converter/p62205-inside-old-converter.html

If a fuse is needed, is a 40 Amp inline type adequate protection or is there another type that I should get. Also, the new converter instructions
indicate a separate chassis ground is required which I will install.

Thanks in advance.
--
P. Barber
Raleigh, NC
1978 GMC Royale - 1995 Clasco Upgrade
 
A better picture would be showing not the old unit that is being removed, but the hook up points. I would run new wires as those appear to be old
cloth type. I think 6 ga would suffice but check instructions as you may have a longer run and need 4 ga. Check lug size on your converter as well for
max size fit. Disconnect all negative cables at batteries before starting project. As a note on the old converter, that metal strain relief is meant
for armoured cable clamping, not individual wires as it could eventually wear through and short out. That type of short has the full brunt of the
house battery and a serious fire hazard as it will get red hot before burning away. DC Negative and chassis ground are the same on our coaches but
feel free to run them both. There should also be an AC ground through the AC cord ground which eventually ends up the same potential but through a
different path via the AC electrical wiring.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Perry,

You don't say what you are going to put in as a replacement. Both Progressive Dynamics and Iota have output fuses already. If your label as
Intelli-power means a PD9245, then you are set. The OE converter was rated at 40 or 45 amp.
A - You expect to dry camp a lot and want a shorter recharge time.
B - You shorten the wire length to the house bank and increase the wire size by a lot.

If your coach has the house bank aft of the generator and the converter is up by the wheel well, that is too much length for the small wire that is
there now.

From your description, the converter is more than a few feet from the house bank. The line loss at the maximum charge rate will be a KILLER. Add
more copper now while it is easy.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
1. The new converter is an Inteli-Power PD9145A and it's output terminals are rated for 2 to 14 ga. copper or aluminum wire.

2. Our coach has rear twin beds with a builtin cabinet between. The existing buzz box is mounted in the base of this cabinet, approximately 4 to 5
feet from the house battery bank which is aft of the Onan.

3. The existing ground wire is old cloth type and will be replaced. The red wire (unknown gauge) is plastic coated and I am hoping it can remain as I
am find it difficult tracking it's route through the coach as some areas are not accessible.
--
P. Barber
Raleigh, NC
1978 GMC Royale - 1995 Clasco Upgrade
 
You should be fine if you terminate them nicely at the new unit. Cut back to just past that strain clamp if possible.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
> 1. The new converter is an Inteli-Power PD9145A and it's output terminals are rated for 2 to 14 ga. copper or aluminum wire.
> 2. Our coach has rear twin beds with a builtin cabinet between. The existing buzz box is mounted in the base of this cabinet, approximately 4 to 5
> feet from the house battery bank which is aft of the Onan.
> 3. The existing ground wire is old cloth type and will be replaced. The red wire (unknown gauge) is plastic coated and I am hoping it can remain
> as I am find it difficult tracking it's route through the coach as some areas are not accessible.

Perry,

Grab a drink of something and hang on.
If I loose you through all this, just come back and say so and I will try to fill in what I will probably have forgotten to say.

A PD9145 is a great box (I have one), but it really needs the pendant to shine. It can make your house bank last for a very long time.

With the distance to the house bank and the cable I see, your charge rate will limit at about 35 amps and there is nothing you can do about that
without shorter and/or cable. And I mean much shorter and much heavier. I did all the calculation about this because my 9145 maxed out at 27 amps
and that meant a long/lot of generator time to bring the bank back up.

About the cable:
- The woven jacket looks to be a wire type SM. That is high temperature and there is no reason to replace it unless it is damaged more than shows in
the pictures. It may be marked. If it is #10 AWG, leave it there. SN cable has never been readily available in SAE gauges, but it could be.
- The red (orange) cable looks light to me, but I can't read numbers on it. You should try to find some.
A Caution Here...
If the wire says #10, try to find where is says #10AWG or #10SAE. SAE wire is only ~90% the area of AWG. Thought the Ampacity (current carrying
capacity) as for heating will not be an issue, voltage drop will be. Do not look at a table that gives voltage drop as a percent because in this
application, that is garbage. If you loose 0.5V on the way to the house bank, you will cut the charge rate from a maximum or 40~45 to less than
30amps and that makes a big difference. If you want to upgrade this conductor, look up "marine" wire suppliers. Marine wire has some real
advantages. Not only is it tin plated for corrosion, but it is finer strand even than SAE. This makes it way easier to pull and handle. If you
choose to replace it, do a wrapped and soldered splice to the end of the original cable and use that to pull it into place.

The PD9145 can and will - given the chance - deliver 45 amps to a depleted pair of GC2s. It will still take a while to get back to even 90% SOC no
matter what you do. The battery chemistry becomes the limiting factor there.

It is proper practice to protect wire connected to a primary power source (like a battery) from an over current situation. In this case, if you can
find a 50 circuit breaker, (self resetting or not) that would be a good application.

As I am hopping you have one of the better sliding battery racks, the cable length gets to be more of an issue because of the additional cable
required to slide the bank out to check the level in all 6 cells. I am also hoping that the house bank is a pair of GC2s or the like and not 12s in
parallel.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Thanks you for your replies Matt and John. They are really helpful.

Matt, first of all, I do have the Charge Wizard for the 9100 converter and will be installing it also. I believe I am able to follow and understand
the information you supplied but had a few additional questions. I also know that there are limitations on what I can do to have an optimal charging
set-up but if I can move the converter closer to the battery bank should I explore that option?

If I replace the positive red wire, what gauge of marine wire should I purchase? There is a West Marine store in town and I believe they should have
what I need.

They also show to have a 50 amp manual reset circuit breaker that I will pick up.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/motorguide--50-amp-manual-reset-circuit-breaker--10352748
--
P. Barber
Raleigh, NC
1978 GMC Royale - 1995 Clasco Upgrade
 
> Thanks you for your replies Matt and John. They are really helpful.
>
> Matt, first of all, I do have the Charge Wizard for the 9100 converter and will be installing it also. I believe I am able to follow and
> understand the information you supplied but had a few additional questions. I also know that there are limitations on what I can do to have an
> optimal charging set-up but if I can move the converter closer to the battery bank should I explore that option?
>
> If I replace the positive red wire, what gauge of marine wire should I purchase? There is a West Marine store in town and I believe they should
> have what I need.
>
> They also show to have a 50 amp manual reset circuit breaker that I will pick up.
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/motorguide--50-amp-manual-reset-circuit-breaker--10352748

Perry,

Glad that both you have the Wizard and that I did not manage to loose you along the way. (I hate to admit how often that happens because I skip
something.)

Anything you can do to shorten the run (both cables) to the bank will improve the situation.
A cable size of 8AWG is where the return of the gain starts to diminish, and at 6AWG, that is about all you can get with a 45 amp charge. People will
think you are overboard with either, but that means they don't understand the loss with any voltage drop.

Realize that the current goes both ways and the loss accumulates both ways. So match the cables sizes. Also be sure that any other connections are
sound.

The breaker at Waste Marine looks like a good bet.

It looks like you are off to a good start.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
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