1978 GMC Palm Beach front pax seat removal
- Thread starter jim gray
- Start date
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If it is a single seat, and you wish to leave the pedestal (base) in place,
remove the bolts and nuts that hold the seat to the base and pick it up
with your hands and pack it out.
If it is a double seat, remove the nuts holding the seat to the floor,
and lift it free from the bolts that extend from the plywood floor.
Jim Hupy
> Can someone direct me to info on how to remove the front pax seat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
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remove the bolts and nuts that hold the seat to the base and pick it up
with your hands and pack it out.
If it is a double seat, remove the nuts holding the seat to the floor,
and lift it free from the bolts that extend from the plywood floor.
Jim Hupy
> Can someone direct me to info on how to remove the front pax seat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
Jim, take the 9/16 nut off the top of the swivel pivot and the seat will lift straight up.
> Can someone direct me to info on how to remove the front pax seat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
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--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
> Can someone direct me to info on how to remove the front pax seat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic fuel
injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat after
all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I will
one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
Hi Chuck, How's it going?
On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 5:46 PM Charles Boyd
wrote:
> Jim, take the 9/16 nut off the top of the swivel pivot and the seat will
> lift straight up.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Can someone direct me to info on how to remove the front pax seat?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat after
all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I will
one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
Hi Chuck, How's it going?
On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 5:46 PM Charles Boyd
wrote:
> Jim, take the 9/16 nut off the top of the swivel pivot and the seat will
> lift straight up.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Can someone direct me to info on how to remove the front pax seat?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
Jim,
It's not the only way to do the job, but the way I installed my EFI under
the passenger seat worked very well: Working from beneath, I drilled a
hole where I wanted the wire bundle to enter. That hole is just barely
large enough for the harness itself after installed. Then, to admit the
large connector on the end of the cable, I drilled another hole, with a
hole saw, around the first hole, positioned so that their circumferences
coincided. After threading the large connector through the big hole and
positioning the cable, I re-installed the plug from the large hole. With a
little caulk around the big plug and a couple of screws into the gap at its
circumference, the cable was routed and sealed -- at least for the past
8-10 years.
HTH,
Ken H.
> Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic fuel
> injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat after
> all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I will
> one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
>
>
It's not the only way to do the job, but the way I installed my EFI under
the passenger seat worked very well: Working from beneath, I drilled a
hole where I wanted the wire bundle to enter. That hole is just barely
large enough for the harness itself after installed. Then, to admit the
large connector on the end of the cable, I drilled another hole, with a
hole saw, around the first hole, positioned so that their circumferences
coincided. After threading the large connector through the big hole and
positioning the cable, I re-installed the plug from the large hole. With a
little caulk around the big plug and a couple of screws into the gap at its
circumference, the cable was routed and sealed -- at least for the past
8-10 years.
HTH,
Ken H.
> Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic fuel
> injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat after
> all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I will
> one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
>
>
I usually use a cordless drill with a hole saw exactly where Howell's
instructions tell you to drill it. Removing the seat is not necessary. I
mount the ECU on a piece of 1/2" plywood along with the fuse block. The ECU
is mounted with 2 strips of velcro which elevate it enough for air to
circulate under it for cooling. When I have to access the data port, the
plywood is easy to get hold of and there is enough slack in the harness to
allow you to move it out from under the seat.
I usually cut the side off the plug I cut in the deck and secure it with a
thin strip of wood or metal. A bit of expanding foam seals it up to keep
mousies at bay. Be sure to run the check engine light harness back through
the hole before you seal it up.
Mount ALL the sensors and hook up the fuel pump harness along with the
knock sensor control unit and harness before you secure the harness. Keep
all wires a long way away from header heat. Read the manual before you
start, and re-read it as you install the kit. Check and recheck all
connections before you power up the system. Take your time and recheck
everything. It isn't exactly plug n play, but it isn't rocket science
either.
Jim Hupy
> Jim,
>
> It's not the only way to do the job, but the way I installed my EFI under
> the passenger seat worked very well: Working from beneath, I drilled a
> hole where I wanted the wire bundle to enter. That hole is just barely
> large enough for the harness itself after installed. Then, to admit the
> large connector on the end of the cable, I drilled another hole, with a
> hole saw, around the first hole, positioned so that their circumferences
> coincided. After threading the large connector through the big hole and
> positioning the cable, I re-installed the plug from the large hole. With a
> little caulk around the big plug and a couple of screws into the gap at its
> circumference, the cable was routed and sealed -- at least for the past
> 8-10 years.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> > Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic
> fuel
> > injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat
> after
> > all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I
> will
> > one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
instructions tell you to drill it. Removing the seat is not necessary. I
mount the ECU on a piece of 1/2" plywood along with the fuse block. The ECU
is mounted with 2 strips of velcro which elevate it enough for air to
circulate under it for cooling. When I have to access the data port, the
plywood is easy to get hold of and there is enough slack in the harness to
allow you to move it out from under the seat.
I usually cut the side off the plug I cut in the deck and secure it with a
thin strip of wood or metal. A bit of expanding foam seals it up to keep
mousies at bay. Be sure to run the check engine light harness back through
the hole before you seal it up.
Mount ALL the sensors and hook up the fuel pump harness along with the
knock sensor control unit and harness before you secure the harness. Keep
all wires a long way away from header heat. Read the manual before you
start, and re-read it as you install the kit. Check and recheck all
connections before you power up the system. Take your time and recheck
everything. It isn't exactly plug n play, but it isn't rocket science
either.
Jim Hupy
> Jim,
>
> It's not the only way to do the job, but the way I installed my EFI under
> the passenger seat worked very well: Working from beneath, I drilled a
> hole where I wanted the wire bundle to enter. That hole is just barely
> large enough for the harness itself after installed. Then, to admit the
> large connector on the end of the cable, I drilled another hole, with a
> hole saw, around the first hole, positioned so that their circumferences
> coincided. After threading the large connector through the big hole and
> positioning the cable, I re-installed the plug from the large hole. With a
> little caulk around the big plug and a couple of screws into the gap at its
> circumference, the cable was routed and sealed -- at least for the past
> 8-10 years.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> > Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic
> fuel
> > injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat
> after
> > all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I
> will
> > one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
I took both seats off for recover. It was easier to remove the four bolts holding the tracks than it was to get to the senter bolt Chuck references.
Note, these are FlexSteel, not OEM seats.
--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Note, these are FlexSteel, not OEM seats.
--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Thanks for the info. Ken H. That sounds like a smart way to do it. Thanks
Sent from my iPhone
>
> Jim,
>
> It's not the only way to do the job, but the way I installed my EFI under
> the passenger seat worked very well: Working from beneath, I drilled a
> hole where I wanted the wire bundle to enter. That hole is just barely
> large enough for the harness itself after installed. Then, to admit the
> large connector on the end of the cable, I drilled another hole, with a
> hole saw, around the first hole, positioned so that their circumferences
> coincided. After threading the large connector through the big hole and
> positioning the cable, I re-installed the plug from the large hole. With a
> little caulk around the big plug and a couple of screws into the gap at its
> circumference, the cable was routed and sealed -- at least for the past
> 8-10 years.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic fuel
>> injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat after
>> all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I will
>> one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Sent from my iPhone
>
> Jim,
>
> It's not the only way to do the job, but the way I installed my EFI under
> the passenger seat worked very well: Working from beneath, I drilled a
> hole where I wanted the wire bundle to enter. That hole is just barely
> large enough for the harness itself after installed. Then, to admit the
> large connector on the end of the cable, I drilled another hole, with a
> hole saw, around the first hole, positioned so that their circumferences
> coincided. After threading the large connector through the big hole and
> positioning the cable, I re-installed the plug from the large hole. With a
> little caulk around the big plug and a couple of screws into the gap at its
> circumference, the cable was routed and sealed -- at least for the past
> 8-10 years.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the info guys. I am installing (having it done) electronic fuel
>> injection and now find that I probably won't have to remove the seat after
>> all to cut the hole for wiring access. But it is good to know how. I will
>> one day start on the interior upgrade and then it will need to come out
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
