12Volt Fridge

T

travis martin

New member
Jan 18, 1999
267
2
0
Heinz, I can't blame you if you want a new fridge, and these12 volt
mechanicals do sound nice. But the one you have can't have much wrong with
it. If it still cools ok on AC, then the refrigeration section is working.
It relies on a source of heat and doesn't care where it comes from.
Ordinarily, they work their best on propane since you get a lot of heat fast
from propane. Since yours is just the opposite, it can only be that you have
a propane delivery problem. Let's face it...there's not much in the world
simpler than a fire!

I'll wager that if you clean the orifice and the burner that it will go back
to working well.

Travis

BTW, someone posted a URL, www.rvmobile.com , to the list a few days ago
that has a dandy explanation of how an absorbtion refrigerator works.
Thanks!

- -----Original Message-----
From: heinz
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, August 07, 1999 12:25 AM
Subject: GMC: 12Volt Fridge

>Patrick,
>What's the scoop re noise, efficiency, etc.
>
>I definately have to replace it looks like... On propane it's almost
useless. It slows down the warming up rather than keeping things cool.
>
>I'm planning to replace next trip, either at home or en-route. I'll nurse
until I get home in 2-3 weeks by using AC but want to get back to
boondocking. I'll have to do some calculations as to how long I could run on
12 volts. I'd like to get at least 48 hours out of it if possible. I'm
thinking of using the aux battery as a primary fridge battery.
>
>The current fridge will get demoted to beer fridge on AC so it's not a
total loss.
>
>Heinz
>Edmonton, Alberta
>
>
 
>
> What's the scoop re noise, efficiency, etc.

Hi Heinz,

Just walked out to dad's coach which is being prepped for a trip to the
NC mountains. The fridge was already on, but the compressor was not
running; no noise at all. I turned the thermostat up until the fridge
started. The only noise is similar to a PC power supply, but not nearly
as loud. You might hear it start if everything was completely quiet,
but you'd have to be a real light sleeper for it to wake you up.

I can't really speak to efficiency other than to quote what Norcold tech
support told me - only 5 amps on 12VDC - when it's running. Dad never
boondocks and has the big 12V battery back at the generator. The old
fridge would barely keep its cool on 12V and only cooled well on 110 -
pretty much in line with what I've always heard about the original
fridges. This one is much better.

I'm still convinced that this is the fridge(Norcold DE461) to go with,
especially if you don't want to plumb LP into the fridge compartment.

HTH,
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patrick

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
>
>I'm still convinced that this is the fridge(Norcold DE461) to go with,
>especially if you don't want to plumb LP into the fridge compartment.
>
>HTH,
>Patrick

Thanks for the additional info Patrick.

Heinz
 
>...you have can't have much wrong with
>it. If it still cools ok on AC, ... have
>a propane delivery problem. ....

If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing to check is the heat
exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be sure its not blocked by
a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel thing in the heat
exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise through the tube. Its
usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat disperser at the
exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts and the steel spiral
drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the gases will not stay in
the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant hot enough to work
properly.

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
>
>If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing to check is the heat
>exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be sure its not blocked by
>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel thing in the heat
>exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise through the tube. Its
>usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat disperser at the
>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts and the steel spiral
>drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the gases will not stay in
>the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant hot enough to work
>properly.
>
>Dave
>73 Sequoia
>

Thanks Dave.

I checked/cleaned the flue and it did have scaly stuff in it which I cleaned
out so I thought I'd have it beat. The spiral is still supported by the wire
but I'm not sure if it got shortened as in some burnt off the bottom.

The weird part is that you'd think it would be consistently bad, but once it
a while it works ok even on propane. On AC it works fine all the time. I
wonder if perhaps the switchover electronics are giving trouble, but as I
can hear spark and lighting of flame I'm assuming it's ok.

Is the AC not just a replacement heater or rather a different heating
method? or would the 110 put out more heat that normal propane? The schemeo
of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether AC or Propane? No?

Heinz
 
Heinz:

If your fridge is still under warranty, recommend you take it to a dealer
for checkout. I had problems with mine a year or so after replacement and
took it to a service facility. They ended up changing out the whole "cold
section" on the back side of the fridge, under warranty. No problems since.

Paul Bartz

From: Heinz Wittenbecher [mailto:heinz]
Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge

>
>If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing to check is the heat
>exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be sure its not blocked by
>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel thing in the heat
>exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise through the tube. Its
>usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat disperser at the
>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts and the steel spiral
>drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the gases will not stay in
>the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant hot enough to work
>properly.
>
>Dave
>

Thanks Dave.

I checked/cleaned the flue and it did have scaly stuff in it which I cleaned
out so I thought I'd have it beat. The spiral is still supported by the wire
but I'm not sure if it got shortened as in some burnt off the bottom.

The weird part is that you'd think it would be consistently bad, but once it
a while it works ok even on propane. On AC it works fine all the time. I
wonder if perhaps the switchover electronics are giving trouble, but as I
can hear spark and lighting of flame I'm assuming it's ok.

Is the AC not just a replacement heater or rather a different heating
method? or would the 110 put out more heat that normal propane? The schemeo
of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether AC or Propane? No?
 
>... or would the 110 put out more heat that normal propane? The schemeo
>of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether AC or Propane? No?

Yes, the cooling system is the same, regardless of where the heat comes
from (110v, 12v or propane). Usually the propane puts out more heat than
the 110v heating element. It sounds like the burner just is not generating
enough heat when its running on propane. Either the flame is not hot
enough, big enough or the heat is not getting transferred into the system
properly.

What does the flame look like? Is it a nice blue color or is there a lot of
yellow in the flame? A yellow flame is a cooler flame and is usually caused
by the small air inlet holes in the base of the burner being blocked or
adjusted improperly.

If the flame is too small then the orifice may be blocked. Some of the
orifice fittings have a filter and that could be blocked too. They are
usually easy to replace if you can get to them.

If the flame looks good and is large enough, then check to be sure that the
heat disperser (at the top of the flue) is still properly attached. This
thing limits how fast the gases can exit the heat exchanger. If its not
there or if its rusted out then the hot gas will exit the top of the heat
exchanger before it has had a chance to give up its heat.

Given that it works OK on 110v, the cooling system must be functioning
properly. Its a matter of figuring out why the flame is not getting the
heat exchanger hot enough.

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
Long time out of warranty :-)
Fridge is probably 12-13 years old. It was the first thing I had to replace
when I got the coach.

Heinz

>Heinz:
>
>If your fridge is still under warranty, recommend you take it to a dealer
>for checkout. I had problems with mine a year or so after replacement and
>took it to a service facility. They ended up changing out the whole "cold
>section" on the back side of the fridge, under warranty. No problems
since.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
>From: Heinz Wittenbecher [mailto:heinz]
>Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:57 PM
>Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge
>
>>
>>If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing to check is the heat
>>exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be sure its not blocked
by
>>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel thing in the heat
>>exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise through the tube.
Its
>>usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat disperser at the
>>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts and the steel spiral
>>drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the gases will not stay
in
>>the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant hot enough to work
>>properly.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>Thanks Dave.
>
>I checked/cleaned the flue and it did have scaly stuff in it which I
cleaned
>out so I thought I'd have it beat. The spiral is still supported by the
wire
>but I'm not sure if it got shortened as in some burnt off the bottom.
>
>The weird part is that you'd think it would be consistently bad, but once
it
>a while it works ok even on propane. On AC it works fine all the time. I
>wonder if perhaps the switchover electronics are giving trouble, but as I
>can hear spark and lighting of flame I'm assuming it's ok.
>
>Is the AC not just a replacement heater or rather a different heating
>method? or would the 110 put out more heat that normal propane? The schemeo
>of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether AC or Propane? No?
>
 
Heinz
The RV Mobile guy http://www.rvmobile.com is in Everett WA. Visit the
website for a good explanation of refrigerator theory and parts
information. Contact information is

RV Mobile Inc.
11715 HWY 99 S,
Everett, WA 98204
Phone: (425) 355-1170
Fax: (425) 348-3473
contact tj

It might be worth a call or a visit on your way down I5.
He should be just north and west of the 128th Ave and I5 exit in S.
Everett.

If you would like, I can stop by and check out his
operation since this is on my way home.

Eric

Long time out of warranty :-)
Fridge is probably 12-13 years old. It was the first
thing I had to replace
when I got the coach.

Heinz

>Heinz:
>
>If your fridge is still under warranty, recommend you
take it to a dealer
>for checkout. I had problems with mine a year or so
after replacement and
>took it to a service facility. They ended up changing
out the whole "cold
>section" on the back side of the fridge, under
warranty. No problems
since.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
>From: Heinz Wittenbecher [mailto:heinz]
>Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:57 PM
>Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge
>
>>
>>If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing
to check is the heat
>>exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be
sure its not blocked
by
>>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel
thing in the heat
>>exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise
through the tube.
Its
>>usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat
disperser at the
>>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts
and the steel spiral
>>drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the
gases will not stay
in
>>the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant
hot enough to work
>>properly.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>Thanks Dave.
>
>I checked/cleaned the flue and it did have scaly stuff
in it which I
cleaned
>out so I thought I'd have it beat. The spiral is still
supported by the
wire
>but I'm not sure if it got shortened as in some burnt
off the bottom.
>
>The weird part is that you'd think it would be
consistently bad, but once
it
>a while it works ok even on propane. On AC it works
fine all the time. I
>wonder if perhaps the switchover electronics are giving
trouble, but as I
>can hear spark and lighting of flame I'm assuming it's
ok.
>
>Is the AC not just a replacement heater or rather a
different heating
>method? or would the 110 put out more heat that normal
propane? The schemeo
>of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether
AC or Propane? No?
>
 
Thanks Eric.
I'll check out his site when I'm back on landline.

If you could stop and check it out as to impression it would be very
helpfull and appreciated.

Heinz

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tipton, Eric
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Tuesday, August 10, 1999 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: GMC: 12Volt Fridge

> Heinz
>The RV Mobile guy http://www.rvmobile.com is in Everett WA. Visit the
>website for a good explanation of refrigerator theory and parts
>information. Contact information is
>
>RV Mobile Inc.
>11715 HWY 99 S,
>Everett, WA 98204
>Phone: (425) 355-1170
>Fax: (425) 348-3473
>contact tj
>
> It might be worth a call or a visit on your way down I5.
>He should be just north and west of the 128th Ave and I5 exit in S.
>Everett.
>
> If you would like, I can stop by and check out his
>operation since this is on my way home.
>
> Eric
>
> Long time out of warranty :-)
> Fridge is probably 12-13 years old. It was the first
>thing I had to replace
> when I got the coach.
>
> Heinz
>
>
>
> >Heinz:
> >
> >If your fridge is still under warranty, recommend you
>take it to a dealer
> >for checkout. I had problems with mine a year or so
>after replacement and
> >took it to a service facility. They ended up changing
>out the whole "cold
> >section" on the back side of the fridge, under
>warranty. No problems
> since.
> >
> > Paul Bartz
> >
> >From: Heinz Wittenbecher [mailto:heinz]
> >Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:57 PM
> >Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge
> >
> >>
> >>If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing
>to check is the heat
> >>exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be
>sure its not blocked
> by
> >>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel
>thing in the heat
> >>exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise
>through the tube.
> Its
> >>usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat
>disperser at the
> >>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts
>and the steel spiral
> >>drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the
>gases will not stay
> in
> >>the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant
>hot enough to work
> >>properly.
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >Thanks Dave.
> >
> >I checked/cleaned the flue and it did have scaly stuff
>in it which I
> cleaned
> >out so I thought I'd have it beat. The spiral is still
>supported by the
> wire
> >but I'm not sure if it got shortened as in some burnt
>off the bottom.
> >
> >The weird part is that you'd think it would be
>consistently bad, but once
> it
> >a while it works ok even on propane. On AC it works
>fine all the time. I
> >wonder if perhaps the switchover electronics are giving
>trouble, but as I
> >can hear spark and lighting of flame I'm assuming it's
>ok.
> >
> >Is the AC not just a replacement heater or rather a
>different heating
> >method? or would the 110 put out more heat that normal
>propane? The schemeo
> >of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether
>AC or Propane? No?
> >
>
 
Eric

Thanks for the info. Maybe this is what we need for good information
instead of guessing (sometimes hard on the pocketbook)

Wayne Newland

> Heinz
> The RV Mobile guy http://www.rvmobile.com is in Everett WA. Visit the
> website for a good explanation of refrigerator theory and parts
> information. Contact information is
>
> RV Mobile Inc.
> 11715 HWY 99 S,
> Everett, WA 98204
> Phone: (425) 355-1170
> Fax: (425) 348-3473
> contact tj
>
> It might be worth a call or a visit on your way down I5.
> He should be just north and west of the 128th Ave and I5 exit in S.
> Everett.
>
> If you would like, I can stop by and check out his
> operation since this is on my way home.
>
> Eric
>
> Long time out of warranty :-)
> Fridge is probably 12-13 years old. It was the first
> thing I had to replace
> when I got the coach.
>
> Heinz
>
> >Heinz:
> >
> >If your fridge is still under warranty, recommend you
> take it to a dealer
> >for checkout. I had problems with mine a year or so
> after replacement and
> >took it to a service facility. They ended up changing
> out the whole "cold
> >section" on the back side of the fridge, under
> warranty. No problems
> since.
> >
> > Paul Bartz
> >
> >From: Heinz Wittenbecher [mailto:heinz]
> >Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:57 PM
> >Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge
> >
> >>
> >>If the flame looks like its burning OK, another thing
> to check is the heat
> >>exchanger (the tube that the flame shoots into). Be
> sure its not blocked
> by
> >>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is a spiral steel
> thing in the heat
> >>exchanger tube that stirs the hot gasses as they rise
> through the tube.
> Its
> >>usually suspended by a thin steel wire from the heat
> disperser at the
> >>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If the wire rusts
> and the steel spiral
> >>drops, or if the heat disperser is missing, then the
> gases will not stay
> in
> >>the heat exchanger long enough to get the refrigerant
> hot enough to work
> >>properly.
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >Thanks Dave.
> >
> >I checked/cleaned the flue and it did have scaly stuff
> in it which I
> cleaned
> >out so I thought I'd have it beat. The spiral is still
> supported by the
> wire
> >but I'm not sure if it got shortened as in some burnt
> off the bottom.
> >
> >The weird part is that you'd think it would be
> consistently bad, but once
> it
> >a while it works ok even on propane. On AC it works
> fine all the time. I
> >wonder if perhaps the switchover electronics are giving
> trouble, but as I
> >can hear spark and lighting of flame I'm assuming it's
> ok.
> >
> >Is the AC not just a replacement heater or rather a
> different heating
> >method? or would the 110 put out more heat that normal
> propane? The schemeo
> >of things, i.e. condensing etc is all the same whether
> AC or Propane? No?
> >
 
>
> > The RV Mobile guy http://www.rvmobile.com is in Everett WA. Visit the
> > website for a good explanation of refrigerator theory and parts
> > information.
>

Checked out the site.
Judging by the information there it may be the circuit board in my Dometic
RM3600 that's causing the problem as while nursing it through the last trip
I found that I could coax it.

Seems it just won't fire up reliably on Gas. With turning the thermostat
off/on/max it would cool and I could then nurse the thermostat back to keep
it from freezing.

On electric it seems to work ok (110).

While rvmobile can supply a Norcold 461, they primarily deal with the
ammonia variety, so I'm still kinda looking for best price as I'll probably
be on my own once purchased anyhow so I might as well try for best price :-)

Have pretty well decided to replace. Hate to take a chance and freeze the
Beer :-)

Heinz
'76 Transmode
 
I finally went to try to find this place. He really doesn't have a
shop. Just a garage and no one was around. I guess his business is all
telephone or internet hence the name RVMOBILE.

Eric Tipton
etipton

-----Original Message-----
From: Tipton, Eric [mailto:ETipton]
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 1999 9:58 AM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: RE: GMC: 12Volt Fridge

Heinz
The RV Mobile guy http://www.rvmobile.com is in Everett
WA. Visit the
website for a good explanation of refrigerator theory
and parts
information. Contact information is

RV Mobile Inc.
11715 HWY 99 S,
Everett, WA 98204
Phone: (425) 355-1170
Fax: (425) 348-3473
contact tj

It might be worth a call or a visit on
your way down I5.
He should be just north and west of the 128th Ave and I5
exit in S.
Everett.

If you would like, I can stop by and
check out his
operation since this is on my way home.

Eric

Long time out of warranty :-)
Fridge is probably 12-13 years old. It
was the first
thing I had to replace
when I got the coach.

Heinz

>Heinz:
>
>If your fridge is still under warranty,
recommend you
take it to a dealer
>for checkout. I had problems with mine
a year or so
after replacement and
>took it to a service facility. They
ended up changing
out the whole "cold
>section" on the back side of the
fridge, under
warranty. No problems
since.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
>From: Heinz Wittenbecher
[mailto:heinz]
>Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 12:57 PM
>Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge
>
>>
>>If the flame looks like its burning
OK, another thing
to check is the heat
>>exchanger (the tube that the flame
shoots into). Be
sure its not blocked
by
>>a mouse or insect nest. Also, there is
a spiral steel
thing in the heat
>>exchanger tube that stirs the hot
gasses as they rise
through the tube.
Its
>>usually suspended by a thin steel wire
from the heat
disperser at the
>>exhaust end of the heat exchanger. If
the wire rusts
and the steel spiral
>>drops, or if the heat disperser is
missing, then the
gases will not stay
in
>>the heat exchanger long enough to get
the refrigerant
hot enough to work
>>properly.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>Thanks Dave.
>
>I checked/cleaned the flue and it did
have scaly stuff
in it which I
cleaned
>out so I thought I'd have it beat. The
spiral is still
supported by the
wire
>but I'm not sure if it got shortened as
in some burnt
off the bottom.
>
>The weird part is that you'd think it
would be
consistently bad, but once
it
>a while it works ok even on propane. On
AC it works
fine all the time. I
>wonder if perhaps the switchover
electronics are giving
trouble, but as I
>can hear spark and lighting of flame
I'm assuming it's
ok.
>
>Is the AC not just a replacement heater
or rather a
different heating
>method? or would the 110 put out more
heat that normal
propane? The schemeo
>of things, i.e. condensing etc is all
the same whether
AC or Propane? No?
>
 
Eric Tipton wrote:

> I finally went to try to find this place. He really doesn't have a
> shop. Just a garage and no one was around. I guess his
> business is all telephone or internet hence the name RVMOBILE.

Nothing wrong with "cottage industry" on principle as long as he "delivers".
Nice looking web site tho'...

Patrick
 
>
> > I finally went to try to find this place. He really doesn't have a
> > shop. Just a garage and no one was around. I guess his
> > business is all telephone or internet hence the name RVMOBILE.
>
> Nothing wrong with "cottage industry" on principle as long as he
"delivers".
> Nice looking web site tho'...
>
> Patrick
>

Right you are Patrick.... though it'd be nice to see a truck :-)
Actually it could very well be an off-site warehouse exists, but nothing
wrong with drop-ships. That's how we'll be selling Auto Parts soon :-).

Anyhoo... thanks for checking Eric.

I'm still struggling with what to do with my fridge. I've pinned it down to
suspecting the circiut board but since an economical replacement is not
readily available I'm going to try and struggle a little longer with manual
coaxing between thaw and freeze.

Best quote I had sofar was US$1125 or C$1750.00. I'm currently trying to
straighten out some confusion between model numbers. Seems the local
supplier uses DE-561 instead of the DE-461 on Norcold's website.

I may try and run it on an Inverter with 110 for a while or rather until it
quits altogether :-)

Heinz
 
No criticism intended. I've heard from some SOB owners that he does
good work. I also agree that the website is excellent.

Eric Tipton
etipton

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick.Flowers
[mailto:Patrick.Flowers]
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 11:09 AM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: RE: GMC: 12Volt Fridge

Eric Tipton wrote:

> I finally went to try to find this place. He really
doesn't have a
> shop. Just a garage and no one was around. I guess
his
> business is all telephone or internet hence the name
RVMOBILE.

Nothing wrong with "cottage industry" on principle as
long as he "delivers".
Nice looking web site tho'...

Patrick
 
>
> Best quote I had sofar was US$1125 or C$1750.00. I'm
> currently trying to straighten out some confusion
> between model numbers. Seems the local supplier uses
> DE-561 instead of the DE-461 on Norcold's website.

Heinz,

Don't let the supplier mess with you!! The DE-561 is last year's model and
does not have the new compressor and two fans. I called Norcold tech
support and verify this before ordering dad's fridge. Don't know why
Norcold chose to go downward on model numbers, but it does cause much
confusion.

Patrick
 
Thank you VERY much Patrick.
It's as confusing as h...., perhaps designed to help the dealer to rid of
old stock easier.

On checking my notes I confirmed that all DE-561's quoted were from Canadian
Suppliers. Guess we're getting "dumped on" :-)

Heinz

> Seems the local supplier uses
> > DE-561 instead of the DE-461 on Norcold's website.
>
> Heinz,
>
> Don't let the supplier mess with you!! The DE-561 is last year's model
and
> does not have the new compressor and two fans. I called Norcold tech
> support and verify this before ordering dad's fridge. Don't know why
> Norcold chose to go downward on model numbers, but it does cause much
> confusion.
>
> Patrick
>
>
 
Thanks for the information. I also have heard good things. I was just
stopping by to see if they had a showroom.

Eric Tipton
etipton

-----Original Message-----
From: RickStapls [mailto:RickStapls]
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 10:33 PM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: Re: GMC: 12Volt Fridge

In a message dated 8/31/99 11:58:57 AM MDT,

> I finally went to try to find this place. He really
doesn't have a
> shop. Just a garage and no one was around. I guess
his business is all
> telephone or internet hence the name RVMOBILE.
>

Eric,
I can vouch for RVMobile. Last year I decided to
convert my Norcold 462
(2-way) referigerator into a 463 (3-way). RVMobile
first assured me it was
possible, told me what parts I would need, made
suggestions, and then
supplied the parts at a reasonable price. (~$70 for 12V
heating element,
wiring harness, and rocker switch.)
His website has step-by-step instructions on changing
out a cooling unit,
and I'm sure he'd do some phone consultation if
necessary. If my Norcold
"463" ever needs repairs, I'll call RVMobile for parts.

My .02.

Rick Staples
'75 Eleganza
Louisville, CO
 
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