12 volt refrigerator

We looked at them, too.

We use a 120v 3.1 cu ft mini fridge. They are 190 bucks at either the Orange or Blue home improvement store.

We already had the inverter, so even if the only last a couple of years, they are 1/5 the price.

If the Xantrex inverter had not been in the parts coach, I likely would have put in this:

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/norcold--de-0041-ac-dc-refrigerator-freezer-right-hinge--5388657?recordNum=10

Although there are a lot of Danfoss compressor driven truck the nits out there now at attractive prices.

FWIW, the 2.8amp draw at 12v is about 1/4 what the inverter draws to power the cheap fridge.

My .02

Dolph Santorine

DE N8JPC

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
1-ton, Sullybuilt Bags, Reaction Arms, 3.70 LSD, Manny Transmission, EV-6010,

>
> Has anybody installed or had any experience with a marine style 12 volt refrigerator? I’m proposing installing on in my GMC
>
> Peter Garry
> 73 23 ft
> Calgary Alberta
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> Has anybody installed or had any experience with a marine style 12 volt refrigerator? I'm proposing installing on in my GMC
>
> Peter Garry

Peter,

Before the depression, I quoted the installations of several of those. Novacool and another that slips my mind. The best I could do through my
suppliers was still not enough to sell any of the jobs no matter how much the owner wanted them. The more attractive package were the separate
evaporator and condenser and I should remember the manufacturer, but it is late. Sailboats are hard pressed for room and those had an advantage as
they could be retro-fitted to an existing ice chest.

The power consumption was still an issue.

When our No(r)cold went bad, we bought a dorn reefer (two door) the same volume as the original and a cheap inverter. The power drain in only a
little higher than the Nocold, but the the cost for the inverter and the two door with real freezer (makes ice over night) was enough lower so we
could still buy the new tires.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
I am interested in several aspects of this as well. We would like to do something about fridge in our coach. We still have the original Norcold
12v/120v fridge. But it no longer works on 12 volts. I do not currently have an inverter on the coach. For lots of reasons, I do not want a propane
fridge.

I could probably find other things to use an inverter for, but... We rarely dry camp. I would like to be able to have the fridge running while
driving, and possibly for an hour or two while stopped for dinner, etc.

For lots of reasons, I do not want a propane fridge.

I have read several posts about people using the small ac only dorm refrigerators. Some posters have been more forthcoming about the type/size
inverters they are using. Are people using true sine wave inverters more satisfied with their ac only fridges?

How big an inverter do you need to start these fridges? Do you need a bigger inverter if you are using a MSW vs. a true sine wave inverter?

As for me, I am considering either a 12 volt only fridge, or the apartment fridge with an inverter. I have pretty much decided that if I go the
inverter route, it will only be with a true sine wave inverter. But then the question becomes how big is big enough? The 12 volt fridge is expensive
but efficient; the true sine wave inverters are not cheap other, but may have more utility for other appliances.

I have read Rob Allen's write up about the original fridge, and agree with most of his reasoning. One thing that has changed since he wrote that, is I
see a lot more of the dorm size fridges with yellow hang tags less than his 262 KWh rating these days.

Lots of questions, but mainly interested in what type inverters those who have ac only fridges are using?

Thanks,

--
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
 
> I am interested in several aspects of this as well. We would like to do something about fridge in our coach. We still have the original Norcold
> 12v/120v fridge. But it no longer works on 12 volts. I do not currently have an inverter on the coach. For lots of reasons, I do not want a propane
> fridge.
>
> I could probably find other things to use an inverter for, but... We rarely dry camp. I would like to be able to have the fridge running while
> driving, and possibly for an hour or two while stopped for dinner, etc.
>
> For lots of reasons, I do not want a propane fridge.
>
> I have read several posts about people using the small ac only dorm refrigerators. Some posters have been more forthcoming about the type/size
> inverters they are using. Are people using true sine wave inverters more satisfied with their ac only fridges?
>
> How big an inverter do you need to start these fridges? Do you need a bigger inverter if you are using a MSW vs. a true sine wave inverter?
>
> As for me, I am considering either a 12 volt only fridge, or the apartment fridge with an inverter. I have pretty much decided that if I go the
> inverter route, it will only be with a true sine wave inverter. But then the question becomes how big is big enough? The 12 volt fridge is expensive
> but efficient; the true sine wave inverters are not cheap other, but may have more utility for other appliances.
>
> I have read Rob Allen's write up about the original fridge, and agree with most of his reasoning. One thing that has changed since he wrote that,
> is I see a lot more of the dorm size fridges with yellow hang tags less than his 262 KWh rating these days.
>
> Lots of questions, but mainly interested in what type inverters those who have ac only fridges are using?
>
> Thanks,

Ah Paul,

You were the one that might need an inverter.....
Get me off-net at matt(numbers seven-three two-three)tze at gmail dot com and we can go around or even schedule phone time and I can save you a world
of missteps (assuming I can still remember all of those we made).

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Paul,
I lost the magic smoke from my original Norcold. I will NOT have any more
propane refrigerators. I decided to fix what I had.
I started by purchasing a 400 watt invertors. I did get a pure sine wave
unit, not because I needed it, but because I wanted it.
Then I bought a 120 to 24 volt transformer and a $2 relay from Radio shack
with a 120 volt coil. The relay normally sends 12
volts to the inverter, but if 120 volts is available it switched to that.
The 120/24 volt transformer takes either power source and
supplies the reefer. I even whacked the old wires off the old power unit so
I could easily trace back what I had done. So far I've
never had to. The whole deal seemed too simple, so I showed my wiring
diagram to Ken Henderson and asked "What have I
dome wrong?" He said if it works and gives no problems, you're good to go.
Oh yes, the inverter has an extra outlet that I can plug my TV into when dry
camping at Camp Wal-Mart. JWID

Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Paul Zerkel"
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2016 11:24 PM
To:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] 12 volt refrigerator

> I am interested in several aspects of this as well. We would like to do
> something about fridge in our coach. We still have the original Norcold
> 12v/120v fridge. But it no longer works on 12 volts. I do not currently
> have an inverter on the coach. For lots of reasons, I do not want a
> propane
> fridge.
>
> I could probably find other things to use an inverter for, but... We
> rarely dry camp. I would like to be able to have the fridge running while
> driving, and possibly for an hour or two while stopped for dinner, etc.
>
> For lots of reasons, I do not want a propane fridge.
>
> I have read several posts about people using the small ac only dorm
> refrigerators. Some posters have been more forthcoming about the type/size
> inverters they are using. Are people using true sine wave inverters more
> satisfied with their ac only fridges?
>
> How big an inverter do you need to start these fridges? Do you need a
> bigger inverter if you are using a MSW vs. a true sine wave inverter?
>
> As for me, I am considering either a 12 volt only fridge, or the apartment
> fridge with an inverter. I have pretty much decided that if I go the
> inverter route, it will only be with a true sine wave inverter. But then
> the question becomes how big is big enough? The 12 volt fridge is
> expensive
> but efficient; the true sine wave inverters are not cheap other, but may
> have more utility for other appliances.
>
> I have read Rob Allen's write up about the original fridge, and agree with
> most of his reasoning. One thing that has changed since he wrote that, is
> I
> see a lot more of the dorm size fridges with yellow hang tags less than
> his 262 KWh rating these days.
>
> Lots of questions, but mainly interested in what type inverters those who
> have ac only fridges are using?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Paul Zerkel
> '78 Eleganza II
> Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> ...We would like to do something about fridge in our coach. We still have the original Norcold 12v/120v fridge. But it no longer works on 12
> volts. I do not currently have an inverter on the coach. For lots of reasons, I do not want a propane fridge. ...
Get a small cheap modified sine wave inverter (100 - 300W). Take the 12V wire off the fridge to feed the inverter, and plug the 110V cord of the
fridge into the inverter. Get another 30 years out of it.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
 
> ...When our No(r)cold went bad, we bought a dorn reefer (two door) the same volume as the original and a cheap inverter. The power drain in only
> a little higher than the Nocold, but the the cost for the inverter and the two door with real freezer (makes ice over night) was enough lower so we
> could still buy the new tires. ...
The Norcold must have been low of Freon if it failed to cool, prompting you to call it a "Nocold". I am sure you considered bypassing the thermostat
to prove that the thermostat was not the problem.

My 1970s vintage Norcold dual voltage will just keep dropping the temp in the box until the thermostat tells it to quit. When the fridge wasn't
getting cold, the thermostat was shutting off the compressor too soon.

When I started messing with it, the thermostat wouldn't let me set the fridge compartment any lower than 42F or so until I modified it to go lower.
Now I can set it so the fridge stays between 37 and 38F with the freezer around 13 - 15F.

And nobody sells door gaskets for it, so I had to putz with the one that was on it (using the CFO's hair dryer to heat and flex it) until I got a
decent seal.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
 
> And nobody sells door gaskets for it, so I had to putz with the one that was on it (using the CFO's hair dryer to heat and flex it) until I got a
> decent seal.

Have you looked into these guys?

http://www.coolergaskets.com/

--
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
 
> > And nobody sells door gaskets for it, so I had to putz with the one that was on it (using the CFO's hair dryer to heat and flex it) until I
> > got a decent seal.
> Have you looked into these guys?
> http://www.coolergaskets.com/
IIRC, I couldn't find the right profile.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
 
OK.. this is what I have installed so far:
1) 3, 120 watt photovoltaic penels mounted flat on the roof
2) 1, 1500 watt inverter/charger connected to the PV panels as well as to a 15 amp shore power connection
3) 2, 100 amp hour lithium batteries
4) 1, Dometic 12v portable refrigerator/freezer that sits between the driver and passage seat and doubles as a sort of table top and drinks receptacle.
5) 1, microwave, rated at 800 watts (plus any surge)
6) ALL the lights are LEDs (lots of them)
7) Several 12 volt cigarette lighter type outlets
8) created a space for a 4.1 cubic ft under counter frig (now occupied by a $50 home depot special)
9) installed a CAT vented propane heater (has a 12v fan for the exhaust system)
I have removed the inoperable Onan as well as the rooftop AC. Also installed a completely separate 110v system for the temp. frig and to run power tools etc while working on the coach.
Now… gather enough cash (about 1K) to buy the 12v frig.
We are in western Canada so AC although nice is not necessary (well that statement is still open for debate) So I’m looking at a AC system that can work while driving…. still looking, any ideas?
This last summer all worked very well, a couple of trips to the national parks in the rockies (not hot enough for AC) and the PV panels have kept the batteries over 13v all the time.
We calculated and then attempted to balance the PV input with the expected electrical demand.
Peter Garry
Calgary Alberta
23ft 73 GMC
(once a painted desert)
 
Candles and ice blocks are cheaper. More of a P.I.T.A. too. ( grin)
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or.
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> OK.. this is what I have installed so far:
> 1) 3, 120 watt photovoltaic penels mounted flat on the roof
> 2) 1, 1500 watt inverter/charger connected to the PV panels as well
> as to a 15 amp shore power connection
> 3) 2, 100 amp hour lithium batteries
> 4) 1, Dometic 12v portable refrigerator/freezer that sits between the
> driver and passage seat and doubles as a sort of table top and drinks
> receptacle.
> 5) 1, microwave, rated at 800 watts (plus any surge)
> 6) ALL the lights are LEDs (lots of them)
> 7) Several 12 volt cigarette lighter type outlets
> 8) created a space for a 4.1 cubic ft under counter frig (now
> occupied by a $50 home depot special)
> 9) installed a CAT vented propane heater (has a 12v fan for the
> exhaust system)
> I have removed the inoperable Onan as well as the rooftop AC. Also
> installed a completely separate 110v system for the temp. frig and to run
> power tools etc while working on the coach.
> Now… gather enough cash (about 1K) to buy the 12v frig.
> We are in western Canada so AC although nice is not necessary (well that
> statement is still open for debate) So I’m looking at a AC system that can
> work while driving…. still looking, any ideas?
> This last summer all worked very well, a couple of trips to the national
> parks in the rockies (not hot enough for AC) and the PV panels have kept
> the batteries over 13v all the time.
> We calculated and then attempted to balance the PV input with the expected
> electrical demand.
> Peter Garry
> Calgary Alberta
> 23ft 73 GMC
> (once a painted desert)
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> ...I'm looking at a AC system that can work while driving.... still looking, any ideas?...
What you want is an auxiliary evaporator, either for the living space or the cockpit or both, that runs off the existing A6 compressor. If you decide
you need cooler in the cockpit, install something like the "vintage air" unit from AppliedGMC and install a shower curtain behind the cockpit seats to
keep the cool air up front. If you want BOTH a cooler cockpit and cooling in the living space, install both a vintage air like unit AND an aux
evaporator for the living space and disconnect the OEM evaporator. I am not sure the A6 can run three evaporators.

Post back here if you have trouble finding ideas for an aux evaporator on the photo site.

If you don't have OEM dash air, the only practical choice is to get the Onan working, reinstall it and the roof AC, and run the Onan to run the roof
air while underway. Either that or find a 1977 or 1978 GMC that is being dismantled and transplant all the dash AC stuff into yours.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
 
For refrigeration, you might wish to consider the Vitrifrigo 12/24V DC and 120V AC unit.

The Danfoss high-efficiency compressor works at fairly low power drain on either 12 or 24 Volts and automatically selects the mode.

For 120V AC operation, the fridge includes a 120V AC to 24V DC power supply which will be used whenever AC power is available (Genset or shore power).

I had almost new one on my boat (Carver 355 Aft Cabin) which was totaled in Feb 2011 in an ice storm. Brought the fridge home and currently use it in the garage for pizza and beer!

It will go into "The Money Pit" if the 3-way box that came with the coach decides to not work properly.

Bought from Defender Marine supply.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ Since 30 November '53 ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ Member GMCMI and Classics ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~~ k2gkk + hotmail dot com ~~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
|[ ]~~~[][ ][]\
"--OO--[]---O-"

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Peter Garry
Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2016 13:02
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] 12 Volt Refrigerator

OK.. this is what I have installed so far:
1) 3, 120 watt photovoltaic panels mounted flat on the roof
2) 1, 1500 watt inverter/charger connected to the PV panels as well as to a 15 amp shore power connection
3) 2, 100 amp hour lithium batteries
4) 1, Dometic 12v portable refrigerator/freezer that sits between the driver and passage seat and doubles as a sort of table top and drinks receptacle.
5) 1, microwave, rated at 800 watts (plus any surge)
6) ALL the lights are LEDs (lots of them)
7) Several 12 volt cigarette lighter type outlets
8) created a space for a 4.1 cubic ft under counter frig (now occupied by a $50 home depot special)
9) installed a CAT vented propane heater (has a 12v fan for the exhaust system)
I have removed the inoperable Onan as well as the rooftop AC. Also installed a completely separate 110v system for the temp. frig and to run power tools etc while working on the coach.
Now... gather enough cash (about 1K) to buy the 12v frig.
We are in western Canada so AC although nice is not necessary (well that statement is still open for debate) So I'm looking at a AC system that can work while driving.... still looking, any ideas?
This last summer all worked very well, a couple of trips to the national parks in the rockies (not hot enough for AC) and the PV panels have kept the batteries over 13v all the time.
We calculated and then attempted to balance the PV input with the expected electrical demand.
Peter Garry
Calgary Alberta
23ft 73 GMC
(once a painted desert)
 
Sir, thanks for the link on the fridge. I ordered one along with some leds for the coach. Fridge was here in 3 days, still waiting on the delayed
small parts shipment. There was a small dent in rear corner from shipping. Amazon knocked $150 off so ended up with ~ $500 in new fridge. I have a
23' and I did not want to hang the fridge out in the hall cause of the rounded side of the coach. I did have to open the hole 1" from the width and 1
1/2" in height. I removed the upper shelf and will put non skid shelf pad on top of fridge and set microwave on it.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6981-grape-solar-refridgerator.html

> Another choice for a electric RV refrigerator being sold by a solar cell manufacter;
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-UF-5-Fab1-Glacier-Freezer/dp/B00HVXE154
>
> Looks like a fair deal.

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee