12 volt fridges

V

vic marks

New member
Sep 5, 1999
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I had an interesting conversation about Norcold fridges the other day with
a chap who lives on a boat. He bought a Norcold 12/120 volt fridge (no
propane) which uses a different method of cooling than the propane two way
or three way (as discussed recently on GMCnet). I asked him how it
performed and said great, since he had it fixed! To cut to the chase. The
standard 12volt Norcold compressor sucks or rather fails to suck real soon.
The story he tells is that they have a terrible repair record but one of
the local boat guys replaces them with the "right" compressor (meaning of
extremely good quality). Once changed, it draws only 2 amps at 12v (The
stock fridges in our GMC's draw close to 7 amps IIRC). The rebuilt fridge
cools like crazy and lasts a very long time. At this type of draw, I may
consider staying with 12/120volt. With 4 golf cart batteries rated at
225amp hours, I'd be good for 4 days of continuous operation before my
batteries would be 50% down. He maintains that Norcolds can be bought
without compressors but I have my doubts.

Vic Marks
Vancouver, BC
75 transmode.
 
Vic.
Could you find out what the right compressor is. I would like to stay with
my 12V/120.

>I had an interesting conversation about Norcold fridges the other day with
>a chap who lives on a boat. He bought a Norcold 12/120 volt fridge (no
>propane) which uses a different method of cooling than the propane two way
>or three way (as discussed recently on GMCnet). I asked him how it
>performed and said great, since he had it fixed! To cut to the chase. The
>standard 12volt Norcold compressor sucks or rather fails to suck real soon.
>The story he tells is that they have a terrible repair record but one of
>the local boat guys replaces them with the "right" compressor (meaning of
>extremely good quality). Once changed, it draws only 2 amps at 12v (The
>stock fridges in our GMC's draw close to 7 amps IIRC). The rebuilt fridge
>cools like crazy and lasts a very long time. At this type of draw, I may
>consider staying with 12/120volt. With 4 golf cart batteries rated at
>225amp hours, I'd be good for 4 days of continuous operation before my
>batteries would be 50% down. He maintains that Norcolds can be bought
>without compressors but I have my doubts.
>
>Vic Marks
>Vancouver, BC
>75 transmode.
>

Frank SW Indiana
 
A lot of the marine fridges use the Danfoss BD35F or BD50F compressor.
Check out their website at
http://www.danfoss.com/Compressors/products/R134a12-24V_DC/bd.htm

These are variable speed 12-24 volt variable speed (I would guess they are
brushless DC motors).
The current draw is 1.47 - 7.36 amps depending on load and speed. The 120
Volt operation is provided
by as 12 volt power supply.

Dave

> Vic.
> Could you find out what the right compressor is. I would like to stay with
> my 12V/120.
>
 
Recently put a Norcold DE461 in my father's coach. It's an improvement
on the DE561. Uses a 12V compressor and draws five amps on 12V. Cools
like a champ and makes a slight humming noise similar to a computer
cooling fan when running. Only runs when the thermostat calls for it.

Patrick

>
> Vic.
> Could you find out what the right compressor is. I would like to stay with
> my 12V/120.
>
> >I had an interesting conversation about Norcold fridges the other day with
> >a chap who lives on a boat. He bought a Norcold 12/120 volt fridge (no
> >propane) which uses a different method of cooling than the propane two way
> >or three way (as discussed recently on GMCnet). I asked him how it
> >performed and said great, since he had it fixed! To cut to the chase. The
> >standard 12volt Norcold compressor sucks or rather fails to suck real soon.
> >The story he tells is that they have a terrible repair record but one of
> >the local boat guys replaces them with the "right" compressor (meaning of
> >extremely good quality). Once changed, it draws only 2 amps at 12v (The
> >stock fridges in our GMC's draw close to 7 amps IIRC). The rebuilt fridge
> >cools like crazy and lasts a very long time. At this type of draw, I may
> >consider staying with 12/120volt. With 4 golf cart batteries rated at
> >225amp hours, I'd be good for 4 days of continuous operation before my
> >batteries would be 50% down. He maintains that Norcolds can be bought
> >without compressors but I have my doubts.
> >
> >Vic Marks
> >Vancouver, BC
> >75 transmode.
> >
>
> Frank SW Indiana

- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patrick

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Em you must mean it draws 2 amps at 120VAC not 12VDC dont you?

>

>
>without compressors but I have my doubts. >>
>
>The original refrigerators that were installed by GM were Norcold 12v DC/ 120
>v. AC The compressor is actually a 20 V. AC. It used either Freon R-12 or
>R-22 (I've forgotten which). The 12VDC goes through an inverter that ups it
>to the 20V and changes it to AC. The 120V. AC input goes through a
>transformer that steps it down to the 20V AC level. You are correct that
>they only use about 2 amps.
>
>The Norcold is also available as an ammonia absorption unit that uses a
>propane flame, a 120 volt heater element or a 12v. heating element. I have a
>three way Norcold in my unit that I replaced about 7 years ago. These work
>well on the propane and 120 v. electric but with the 12volt they will not
>really cool the contents of the refrigerator but rather just maintain it if
>the day is not too hot.
>This refrigerator draws a lot more 12V. amperage than the compressor model
>did.
>
>The propane flame provides heat to operate the refrigerator. The 12V and the
>120 V. heaters just fit along the ammonia pipe near where the flame would
>heat the unit. The reason that the 12V. heating element doesn't cool as well
>as the 120V element is because the wattage of this element is only about half
>that of the 120V element. The manufacturers do this on purpose because the
>wiring to the 12V lead to the refrigerator is usually too light a gauge wire
>and too much current draw could cause an overheated wire and a fire.
>
>A little known fact is that you can purchase a higher wattage 12V heating
>element so that the refrigerator can cool as well on 12V as on 120V. The
>manufacturers have them available but don't advertise this information. The
>problem is that you'll double the current through your 12 v. lead to the
>refrigerator and overload the wire.. If you want to install some heavy duty
>wiring to the refrigerator compartment you can have the 12V work as well as
>the 120V when you are going down the highway. However, don't try to run off
>your batteries when dry camping because you'll run the batteries down
>extremely fast.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
>
 
Em I dont call that an efficient compressor

>

>
>>
>
>Yes, you're right - I obviously didn't type it correctly. Just goes to show
>you can't believe everything that you read on the net!
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
>
 
Anyone interested in adding solar cells to the top of your coach to run the
12 volt fridge?

>

>
>>
>
>Yes, you're right - I obviously didn't type it correctly. Just goes to show
>you can't believe everything that you read on the net!
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
>
 
>
> Patrick, what is the cost of this unit?
> Justin

I think we paid around $1100 delivered. Check with Camper's Choice. Be
sure to get the DE461, not the DE561 - for some reason Norcold went to a
lower number for the newer model and confused many dealers.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patrick

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
On Wed, 17 Nov 1999 22:08:15 -0600 (CST) Tom Warner
writes:
>Anyone interested in adding solar cells to the top of your coach to
>run the
>12 volt fridge?
>
>

I am interested in the panels to recharge batteries, etc but I find no
need to run my fridge on DC. I got rid of my pod to make room for panels,
but too much to do, too little time!

Dave Greenberg
GMC MOTORHOME REGISTRY
Seagate Towers 200 MacFarlane Dr PH4
Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
 
We must but in for a few. We bought a DE561 a year and a half
ago. Of course this was before the differences in the two models
were being discussed. We used it about 6 months (full-time) and
then parked our GMC for another 6 months. After we started
travelling again, the cooling unit went out on our frig at the age of
14 months old. Because we had bought the extended warranty
(only good for the cooling unit) that Norcold offered, they replaced
the cooling unit at no charge. The frig worked another 6 weeks,
and then quit again. We took it to a service center in NY, we were
told we needed a Power Supply, and a Transformer and none of it
was under warranty. The parts alone was going to cost over
$500.00. We chose not to fix it, bought a dorm frig, and finished
our trip.

After we got back home, we called Norcold to buy a service
manual. They told us they would not sell us one because of all the
liabilities. Because of my silence, the CS rep said "I take it that
you are not happy with my answer." I preceded to tell him how
unhappy I was will my 1 1/2 old frig. He then said if we would take
the frig to a service center, Norcold would pay for the parts. When
we picked up the frig, they had paid the labor too. Also they added
fans to the power supply and on the compressor.

We think that maybe Norcold did this because of the problems
they had with the DE561. If they had not, we were NOT going to fix
it. We were already looking at other opt

ions. So far, so good.

> >
> > Patrick, what is the cost of this unit?
> > Justin
>
> I think we paid around $1100 delivered. Check with Camper's Choice.
> Be sure to get the DE461, not the DE561 - for some reason Norcold went
> to a lower number for the newer model and confused many dealers.
>
> Patrick
> --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto:patrick
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com

Les & Des
Living Praise Ministries

mailto:lesndes
Visit us at: http://www.livingpraise.org
 
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