1976 Eleganza II

And start thinking about getting parking brake working.....
Dragging brakes are no good, almost makes me thankful for my hopelessly loose parking brake cable. I suppose if I had to choose between the two, mine's suddenly not so bad. I'm glad you were able to make those discoveries while not out on the road trying to enjoy a trip.

Those sensors seem pretty neat, I'm glad they're making good on it--and even giving you an upgrade of sorts.
 
I was just working on my underneath timing tab and got that wrapped up. Fired up the engine just to be sure all was ok, with the hatch open, and there's a loud "tick tick tick....." Seems to be from the drivers side valve cover.

I phoned an Oldsmobile friend and while we talked I got the cover off. Sure enough, one of the lifters is looser than the others. I'm able to push the pushrod down about 0.050 to 0.100" and it springs up. We _think_ it's a collapsed lifter.

So next up is I'll have to take the intake manifold off which isn't too bad except I hate dealing with the A/C compressor. Then see what that lifter looks like. It's one thing after another on these things!
 
The See-Level 2 sensor arrived, I cut it off at 4" and stuck it to the waste tank and it works! Read 81%, and while I ran water down the drain it went up to 94% while my fresh water went down. Then I sprayed it down with rubberized 3M undercoating to seal it up and prevent corrosion as per the installation manual. Now LPG is the only gauge that seems a bit off, probably the ground. And it is uncalibrated at this point, need to fill it up to calibrate it.

Tonight I took off all the rear drums and removed the bearings, and repacked them with fresh grease. Installed a new seal and put back on the coach. Like they say, if you didn't do it yourself then you can't trust that it was ever actually done. After changing out the bad bearing there's no more 'rumble' while turning it.

Now that the See-Level sensor is in, and the brakes and bearings are all serviced I can let the rear down and bleed the cylinders. In their present position at an angle it doesn't seem like all the air will come out. Then on to the lifter.

Fun Fun Fun!
 
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Looking at the front suspension, it seems my upper control arm bushings are pretty toasted. If I scratch with a screwdriver I can get rubber crumble to fall off it.

Seems like a good way to spend a weekend, changing out the bushings :(

The price difference between locally purchasing them and getting them on RockAuto is significant, I'll probably use RA since I'm not in a hurry to swap them out.

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This might be a good time to install offset bushings in the uppers so you can get more caster. It has been a long time since I've done that, so can't give you any more info on this procedure. Research it some before you start the project. Sorry I can't give you more.
 
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I've gotta tease you just a bit...

I took my intake manifold off in about 15 minutes. No AC, and all plugs/wires have been rerouted out of the way. Pushrods all have the right tension and are straight, everything is perfectly clean and tidy. Jealous, right?

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So what's the story with your loose lifter? Or are you putting off the bad news? I hope it's nothing too bad.
 
I've gotta tease you just a bit...

I took my intake manifold off in about 15 minutes. No AC, and all plugs/wires have been rerouted out of the way. Pushrods all have the right tension and are straight, everything is perfectly clean and tidy. Jealous, right?

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So what's the story with your loose lifter? Or are you putting off the bad news? I hope it's nothing too bad.

I'm jealous of your straight pushrods lol! First time I had the intake manifold off, I was greeted by a twisted up, broken in two, pushrod pieces residing at the front of the motor just behind the water pump. Seems like they found somewhere safe to spend their days after throwing in the towel.

No A/C?!

I put in all new lifters and reinstalled the intake. Now just waiting for a super duper Mondellos adjustable rocker arm and HD pushrod kit to arrive. Then, fingers crossed, no more engine problems, yeah right! LOL
 
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SeeLevel II installation

$200 for the kit if I got the one with the pump switch that won't be used.
Checked out the SeeLevel web site. Interestingly, the unit is Made in Canada (says right on the display), but if you order it from the manufacturer direct in Canada it is $384Cdn, but if you order it from the On-Line dealer through the manufacturer's website its $199USD. So the Canadian buck is about $0.83 USD, so if I ordered it through the US it would cost $240Cdn.

So truck it across the border, sell it to a Dealer and they can sell it for 2/3 of the price direct from the manufacturer!!
 
Checked out the SeeLevel web site. Interestingly, the unit is Made in Canada (says right on the display), but if you order it from the manufacturer direct in Canada it is $384Cdn, but if you order it from the On-Line dealer through the manufacturer's website its $199USD. So the Canadian buck is about $0.83 USD, so if I ordered it through the US it would cost $240Cdn.

So truck it across the border, sell it to a Dealer and they can sell it for 2/3 of the price direct from the manufacturer!!

Bruce, first off, it seems to work great! That was my biggest question, especially on the curved side of the black tank, but it seems to work. So far so good. Long term report will follow, we'll see how it works after a year or so. But if you did want to roll the dice on one, I can report that it does seem to work really well for the GMC! So even though it would be a bit of money to install, at least you can have confidence that it will work well based on my experience with it.

Second the pricing was very strange for me too. It might not just be Canada vs USA. I bought it from RVUpgrades. There were a ton of options. Many of the systems were sold out, and many were over $300. For some reason, this system was only $200, and it was in stock. It had a pump 3-way switch I'm not going to use. And a grey water tank that won't be used, but that's the only option any way. It could be had without the switch but it was more, go figure.

Maybe it was less b/c it wasn't packaged like a finished product. It looked like someone assembled the kit from pieces off a shelf in a warehouse, just tossed in a shipping box loose. That's ok, I'll take the $150 off for lacking a pretty package.

If you buy the reader loose, I have an extra 14" sensor you can have. But get one of the JS short sensors for the black tank.
 
This might be a good time to install offset bushings in the uppers so you can get more caster. It has been a long time since I've done that, so can't give you any more info on this procedure. Research it some before you start the project. Sorry I can't give you more.

I did order the offset casters, and here's an article about how to place them.
 
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You tease!

I'm not doing bushings anytime soon b/c the more I think about it, the more I realize I need to just do everything at once as long as the knuckle is off: Zerk the knuckles, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings on the control arms, ...

The new rockers came in from Mondellos, and new pushrods which are considerably heavier than the old ones. The rockers are a Chevy style ball and socket pivot.

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This was before I stuck the intake back on the second time. First time I forgot to put in the little Mondello baffle in the valley. Had to rip it off and clean up the surfaces again, new gaskets. This is using no turkey tray, just gaskets, and using Mondello block off plates for the heat crossovers.
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And this is with the new rockers, push rods and guideplates installed. These are _adjustable_ as opposed to the stock style rockers which are fixed. Everything has to be within OE spec for those to work but after 45 years, rebuilds, valve jobs, .... all bets are off. With adjustable rockers they can be set up with the proper lash, bring the cylinder to tdc, tighten the nut until the pushrod stops spinning freely between your fingers, then tighten another 1/2 turn and lock it in place with the setscrew on top. Then rotate the motor to the next cylinder. Now it runs without the loud tick, and before covering up the rockers I verified that the troublesome pushrod was rotating while the engine was running.

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The JS sensor (junior) arrived from Garnet, no charge, to replace my defective ES sensor. The JS is very short and can be cut shorter. I cut it to its shortest length and applied it to the black tank. It was reading fine so I sprayed it with 3M undercoating as recommended by Garnet to prevent corrosion of the circuit. Today I dumped the tank and it read 94, 84, 55, ....6, ..0. It's a thing of beauty I tell ya!


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What do you think of these control arm bushings? Shot? or still good? They look shot to me, I've received the new ones. Someday I'll change them.

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What do you think of these control arm bushings? Shot? or still good? They look shot to me, I've received the new ones. Someday I'll change them.

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I wouldn't quite say "shot", as they do get worse. They're certainly on their way out though, and have their best days behind them. As to whether or not replacement is urgent, that depends on how much radial movement you can cause with a pry bar.

What's the story with the baffle in the lifter valley? Are there claims of benefit? I've eliminated my turkey tray, since I no longer have a crossover passage.
 
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I wouldn't quite say "shot", as they do get worse. They're certainly on their way out though, and have their best days behind them. As to whether or not replacement is urgent, that depends on how much radial movement you can cause with a pry bar.

What's the story with the baffle in the lifter valley? Are there claims of benefit? I've eliminated my turkey tray, since I no longer have a crossover passage.
The baffle is to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake same as the turkey tray did, I guess. Like I said, I struggled with whether or not to yank off the intake for a third time after I forgot to install it. I'm not fully convinced it's necessary. But anything that helps get the oil back down into the oil pan I guess is a good thing.

https://mondelloperformance.com/shop/oiling-systems/oiling-accessories/vt-581-valley-tray/

We just pulled in the driveway from a 760 mile round-trip weekend. Rockers/lifters/pushrods seem to be holding up. Not a very large data set but for those miles it got 9.4 mpg. And part of that was through the Pocono mountains so I guess the pair of 2.25" Walker mufflers recently added didn't hurt the mpg's much if any.

This was the first trip my wife experienced the new muffler setup. It's _quiet_. So quiet you can have a conversation while driving along at 65mph. (Put that in the pro or con category, up to you and your spouse.) I kind of liked not getting a headache after 6 hours at 78 decibels (again, referring to the old exhaust setup, not the 'conversation').

Having 4 well-functioning rear brakes is definitely an improvement! More parts came in the mail from RockAuto recently, I'll be putting in a new master cylinder and getting the parking brakes working on at least two of the rear wheels. 2 will definitely be better than none.

My basis for wanting to swap out those bushings is from our 56 chevy, we did a frame off on that and put in all new bushings. And that thing drives really nice. Better than a new car. It's tight, no squirrely-ness. And the fact that long time owners claim that these things are supposed to drive as nice as a car. Mine's driving pretty nice but my wife still isn't comfortable behind the wheel so there's more work to be done on the GMC handling. I did a front end alignment, it was way way off and not symmetric and that was when I started to wonder if the bushings had given out. Bushings look like a logical next step.

Update on the SeeLevel 2, the fresh and black water meters work fantastic. They are spot on. Couldn't be happier with the water level readouts. After filling the tank and calibrating the meter, the propane level is giving >100% readings, probably I have a bad ground at the tank b/c it's original. More work to be done on that.

The 'under the seat' A/C unit seems to work pretty 'ok'. Kids were still hot but if they sat in the dinette with the blower shooting straight on them they were fine. I need to check the hi and lo side pressures while that's running, it may have lost some R12a over the winter who knows? It's going to get hotter this summer. Also need to make a curtain to block off the coach behind the galley, keep the conditioned air up front if possible.

Here we are ready to head out for the trip, the Honda CT90 came in handy as we needed to make a milk run.

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Check out those snazzy new hubcaps! LOL
 
Figured I'd start a build thread for my GMC since it's quite a bit more involved than I was hoping for when I bought it.

To recap, from my previous post: "I'm heading down a road I was hoping to avoid.

Like a scab, I couldn't help picking at the nasty interior on my GMC, and just like that the walls are off and in the dumpster, the seats are at the upholsterer and we're picking out fabric, flooring, headliner etc. The whole shebang. I should have listened to that little voice in my head screaming 'It's a TRAP!' I didn't though. Oh well.

If I were smart, I'd cut bait and sell it to find one that is fairly original and ready to use, that's what I was hoping for anyway.

Isn't this how this things usually go anyway? 'I'll just fix this one thing, ... oh wait, while I'm here let me fix this other thing....' and before you know it it's down to the studs/ribs.

30k or bust, here we come! $hit. "

More to follow. Hopefully some pictures if I can figure out how to do it.

Here's what we've done, and are planning to do.

I've removed the carpet, upper cabinets, front davo, dinette, and rear side face dinette. Removed the raised floor under the rear dinette (found some rot). Removed the headliner and wall liners. Plan is to reupholster the front furniture and ditch the rear dinette for a mattress platform with storage underneath where the rear side-face dinette footwell area used to be.

Thinking about colors and planning ahead, we've got it narrowed down to a couple options for linoleum for galley/door/davo front area. Linoleum is 12' wide, which will cover from the front steps to near the bathroom door. Will probably have to add a layer of luan to get a good surface for the linoleum. I think we're going with a light sandstone / beige random stone pattern. Old floor was dark, harvest gold, so floor will be getting lighter in color vs original, and we're staying in the family of brown colors.

We picked out fabric and put down 1/3 on reupholstering the davo and dinette. There's about a 2 month queue, so waiting to hear from them to drop off the furniture. Original was light tan wide corduroy. We are going with a brown, extremely stainproof fabric. Seats will be getting darker vs the original, similar to the dark walnut cabinets.

We got samples and picked out and ordered headliner for the ceiling and upper parts of the wall, and hull liner for the lower parts of the wall, from SailRite. The headliner is about 1/4" thick foam backed, I'm hoping/planning to glue this to panels of 'plastic cardboard' which is available at lowes/homedepot. It's about 3/16" thick, lightweight, waterproof.

I'm insulating the ceiling and walls with the mylar bubble wrap insulation stuff, taped to the ribs with aluminum tape.

Started at the rear, I've dropped the plastic headliner, washed it and painted it white with Fusion paint. Under the stickers was something close to the original color, it didn't use to be ivory colored, it was bright white at one time. It took like 6 coats to get a decent finish using rattle cans, which I hate. Took 4 cans and my finger darn near fell off from pressing the nozzle. I'm hoping to get that reinstalled tonight or soon thereafter and then work forward with the insulation and headliner.

Some time ago I bought a new drivers seat without first looking at real samples in hand, in natural light, next to the cabinets and dashboard which we be pretty much all that remains of the original interior surfaces. Based on the samples on the website, we choose Mocha. Well, it arrived and it's not really a good match to the image on their website. Damned if it doesn't have a purple hue to it, to me anyway. It's sort of a light brown, but to me all I see is that purple but I have been accused of being color blind, there's a brown chair in our house that I think looks a little bit like really dark green. Anyway, I digress. Instead of doubling down on another seat for the passenger in a color we're not super happy with, we're planning to order 2 seats this time, one for the driver and one for the passenger, after carefully looking at actual samples of the real material. Unfortunately, the samples are tiny, and dammit if Mocha doesn't look pretty good on the sample board! D'oh! I think we're going to forge ahead anyway and try a darker, brown color called Decaf. So if anyone out there is looking for a brand-new drivers seat in Mocha, which may or may not appear to be slightly purple hued, let me know, I've got a deal for you!

We picked out a brown indoor/outdoor carpet, lowes and HD both have it, for the steps and drivers front area. We'll use this also in the rear where the linoleum doesn't reach. I also bought sound deadening material for the front/steps area.

I'll probably put the old upper cabinets back in for camping this summer, but there is some water damage to most of them. I'll probably make new ones someday to get the particle board out of there.

So that's pretty much the overall plan, not really a total gut job, just replacing the old surfaces with new ones. Trying to stay in the same brown color family, some things are getting lighter while other things are getting lighter to hopefully offset. There's a reason that GMC went to Better Housekeeping (?) for picking out the colors, I think this will be easy to mess up, hoping to avoid that.

Will try to get some pictures up!
Thanks for your update. I’m in the same situation with my 78 Royale. Oh well, I’m innit for the Kong haul I guess.
 
Also need to make a curtain to block off the coach behind the galley, keep the conditioned air up front if possible.
I've been pondering that as well, now that I have access to some factory dash AC parts for my rig. I was thinking it was a lost cause before. I'll be curious to see how that works out for you.
 
I've been pondering that as well, now that I have access to some factory dash AC parts for my rig. I was thinking it was a lost cause before. I'll be curious to see how that works out for you.

Good luck, I'm still not super happy. I like to be cold and with all this glass they are a fish bowl / cooker.
 
. Also need to make a curtain to block off the coach behind the galley, keep the conditioned air up front if possible.
Couldn’t you just open the bathroom door ala the “dressing room.” Magnetic doorstops keep mine open. Thought about that after reading your post. But even though I have a backup camera and monitor that stay on while driving, I like seeing out the back window with the rearview.

i like to run the generator and rooftop air when it’s too hot for just open windows and defrost fans. Seems to cool things off faster and colder than the dash air. I think it’s better for the mpg as well.