So what did you do to your GMC today?

Thermostat determines the lower running temp. An open thermostat is an open thermostat.

What keeps you from overheating is the fan clutch and radiator. And also engine tuning(correct timing, not leaned out, ect..).

Your description of your stalling issue in my opinion doesnt seem to be normal vapor lock issue. Vapor lock is usually easy to predict on gmc’s. At the temps your stalling out at, there is something else odd.
Yep. A stock GMC might run at ~195° regardless of the thermostat, and a coach with an aluminum radiator and upgraded fan might run at or below 180° regardless of the thermostat.

I agree that there's probably something else going on. My mantra - Just because you have one problem doesn't mean you don't have two.

It was good to rule out the fan clutch and continue following the diagnostic path.
 
Yep. A stock GMC might run at ~195° regardless of the thermostat, and a coach with an aluminum radiator and upgraded fan might run at or below 180° regardless of the thermostat.

I agree that there's probably something else going on. My mantra - Just because you have one problem doesn't mean you don't have two.

It was good to rule out the fan clutch and continue following the diagnostic path.
I'm thinking you are right. Something else is wrong. I took it for a spin today, and my secondaries are not opening. It also took forever for the engine to reach operating temperature. It was 85 degrees outside. Secondaries wouldn't open, and it stumbled on acceleration. Until I get this figured out, my rig isn't going anywhere. :(
 
From: quadrajetpower.com

Secondaries won’t open

Symptom:Secondaries don’t open, press pedal to floor and they don’t move Solutions:
•Secondary air valves on top of carb won’t open unless under load. Revving engine in park , they may not open.
•Quadrajets have a secondary lock out system, most to hold throttle blades in base, some early 65-70 have it on the air horn to prevent air valves from opening. This is activated by choke. Make sure choke is completely off, and the lock out is clear of the throttle blades. These lockouts can be removed if desired.
•Check throttle cable to make sure it is adjusted correctly. With engine off, some body presses pedal to floor and make sure throttle blades are open fully.
•Make sure base gasket isn’t interfering with throttle operation

Lots of good info from this web site.

The throttle peddle can be twisted enough so that even if floored there is not enough cable pull to open the secondaries.
Emery Stora came up with a solution to use the large split shot (fishing gear) on the back side of throttle peddle along the cable to shorten the cable throw.
Maybe you can grab ahold of the throttle peddle and try to force it up a bit.

Post #2 from Matt Cole
 
took our 65 galaxie with the youngest son who graduates tomorrow, and a few friends in their 'senior parade' thru town, JUST after end of parade, freaking alternator went out- it was the original, guess 61 years later cant complain much...
made it home before it went dead, and loaded everyone int the GMC- took 9 kids and the dog to dairy queen, got food and went for a drive...lots of room, lots of laughs, it was kinda cool.
I did do the drivers side lower a arm bushings yesterday evening, took under 2 hours including gettin/putting away tools, feels less affected by bumps, im sure the old loose bushings were letting the wheels squirm all over the place. didnt notice as much difference, but changing the passenger side the other day was night and day... oddly felt about same after doing drivers side- but road crown/road edge might put a lot of different loads on them I guess...
Anyways was a fun little drive in the GMC, and on its 48th birthday according to the build sheet :)
 
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took our 65 galaxie with the youngest son who graduates tomorrow, and a few friends in their 'senior parade' thru town, JUST after end of parade, freaking alternator went out- it was the original, guess 61 years later cant complain much...
made it home before it went dead, and loaded everyone int the GMC- took 9 kids and the dog to dairy queen, got food and went for a drive...lots of room, lots of laughs, it was kinda cool.
I did do the drivers side lower a arm bushings yesterday evening, took under 2 hours including gettin/putting away tools, feels less affected by bumps, im sure the old loose bushings were letting the wheels squirm all over the place. didnt notice as much difference, but changing the passenger side the other day was night and day... oddly felt about same after doing drivers side- but road crown/road edge might put a lot of different loads on them I guess...
Anyways was a fun little drive in the GMC, and on its 48th birthday according to the build sheet :)
IMG_1617.webp
Good time to upgrade the alternator. This install has (2) Balmar alternators. The red one is a 12v 160a alternator. It is controlled by a WakeSpeed WS500 remote regulator which I have set the dip switches to reduce the output t0 120a.
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At full put out, it will take 6hp to generate 160 amps. The reduction to a 120 amp put out only needs 4.5 hp.

These parasitic loads on the 455 are far greater with the original dumb alternator.

The metal colored alternator below is a 48v 60a alternator.
 
IMG_1814.webp
We heard some tapping sounds from the valve train, so we took off the covers and ran the engine. Messy oily business.
We had to tune everything and some of the components were not securely fastened. In a couple of instances there was no oil coming through the lubricating jets.
Everything is good now & not taps.
Didn't know that some parts where not getting lubricated.
A future engine breakdown was avoided.
When bought from the COOP when the shut down auction was happening, I was told that this engine had been broken it by the COOP and was sitting on a shelf the I found it.
It has never been on th interstate.
IMG_2932.webp
We are having trouble holding the high fuel pressure needed for the FiTech fuel injection system. With all of the threaded connections, there are multiple location where there may not be a perfect seal. We are breaking everything down an installing fresh heavy blue Teflon tape.
IMG_2934.webp
We hope that this will connect the weaknesses in the system.
 
Pulled my triad converter charger out today. I could use this thing to work out. It’s got some weight to it, but I found the only thing that was really good for was cooking off my deep cycle battery.

Replaced with a progressive dynamics, 9300 series 60 amp seems to be functioning very nicely. I hope it holds in there.
IMG_8801.webp
 
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View attachment 18522
We heard some tapping sounds from the valve train, so we took off the covers and ran the engine. Messy oily business.
We had to tune everything and some of the components were not securely fastened. In a couple of instances there was no oil coming through the lubricating jets.
Everything is good now & not taps.
Didn't know that some parts where not getting lubricated.
A future engine breakdown was avoided.
When bought from the COOP when the shut down auction was happening, I was told that this engine had been broken it by the COOP and was sitting on a shelf the I found it.
It has never been on th interstate.
View attachment 18523
We are having trouble holding the high fuel pressure needed for the FiTech fuel injection system. With all of the threaded connections, there are multiple location where there may not be a perfect seal. We are breaking everything down an installing fresh heavy blue Teflon tape.
View attachment 18524
We hope that this will connect the weaknesses in the system.
When I pulled my tanks, I installed AN-6 hose and fittings. Haven't had any fuel line problems since. Look into those if you continue to have problems.
 
Or a boat anchor for a moderately sized boat. 😉

Using it as a bench top 12v power supply is a great use for it.
Are those things even filtered? They certainly are not regulated. Without filtering it will be delivering 120 Hz pulsing DC (the house battery is the big filter).

It will be Ok for testing a 12V motor or light, but I would not want to be running a radio or most 12VDC electronics from it.
 
Are those things even filtered? They certainly are not regulated. Without filtering it will be delivering 120 Hz pulsing DC (the house battery is the big filter).

It will be Ok for testing a 12V motor or light, but I would not want to be running a radio or most 12VDC electronics from it.
From the Triad manual on Bdub's site:
"It also provides for filtered DC operation..."

Provides for and provides might be two different animals, I do not know.

 
View attachment 18522
We heard some tapping sounds from the valve train, so we took off the covers and ran the engine. Messy oily business.
We had to tune everything and some of the components were not securely fastened. In a couple of instances there was no oil coming through the lubricating jets.
Everything is good now & not taps.
Didn't know that some parts where not getting lubricated.
A future engine breakdown was avoided.
When bought from the COOP when the shut down auction was happening, I was told that this engine had been broken it by the COOP and was sitting on a shelf the I found it.
It has never been on th interstate.
View attachment 18523
We are having trouble holding the high fuel pressure needed for the FiTech fuel injection system. With all of the threaded connections, there are multiple location where there may not be a perfect seal. We are breaking everything down an installing fresh heavy blue Teflon tape.
View attachment 18524
We hope that this will connect the weaknesses in the system.
hopefully cam was broken in- you said some components loose- like adjustable rocker arms maybe? excess lash in rockers can be cam wear- if a new engine, would suggest at oil change, cut filter can open and look for metal in the paper media- a new motor almost always has some metal bits here and there from burrs from machining, but thats only brand new- rebuilds should be clean. if cam/lifter starts to wear, there will be a lot of griity stuff in the filter media- if seen, might want to put a indicator on all valves and measure lift at valve... if cams wearing that valve will have reduced lift, and wont last/metal wearing will run debris thru bearings
 
have had a fairly cold spring. Only a few really warm days.

Took time today to fire up the gmc and do some town errands. It still starts, runs well. Stops and takes on gas at the pump.

So once home I dived in quick and did one of the things I have been wanting to do for years. Added a 2nd 2” tube between the bumper and the spare tire.

This way I can mount a bike rack or my stow-away storage box and still have the receiver for trailers or towd.

Idea was to bring it up a little higher, yet keep it as close to the coach as possible…. The adaptors push it too far out away from the coach.

I hated grinding off the nice powder
Coat of by blayne merril hitch. But no avoiding that.

Pay no attention to the welding…. With the price of steel, I dont really weld very often anymore. And arc weld even less. But I dont think it is going to fall apart.

IMG_3186.webp
 
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have had a fairly cold spring. Only a few really warm days.

Took time today to fire up the gmc and do some town errands. It still starts, runs well. Stops and takes on gas at the pump.

So once home I dived in quick and did one of the things I have been wanting to do for years. Added a 2nd 2” tube between the bumper and the spare tire.

This way I can mount a bike rack or my stow-away storage box and still have the receiver for trailers or towd.

Idea was to bring it up a little higher, yet keep it as close to the coach as possible…. The adaptors push it too far out away from the coach.

I hated grinding off the nice powder
Coat of by blayne merril hitch. But no avoiding that.

Pay no attention to the welding…. With the price of steel, I dont really weld very often anymore. And arc weld even less. But I dont think it is going to fall apart.

View attachment 18540
That looks good Jon. It should hold anything you want to put on there.
 
Today I dropped both gas tanks to find what I thought might be a vent line that broke off. Nope, only had the vent line drop off. In the next few days I also need to put in a new steering box, check rear brakes, install a hydro boost, and fix a broken TV antenna wire. Lots to do before I leave for Canadian fishing trip after Memorial Day. When I get back gonna install the Toyota headlight kit.
Well, one week later, both gas tanks down and repaired, rebuilt passenger side drive axle installed, hydro boost installed (what a job that was, and wow...what an improvement in braking) install new steering gear box, exhaust leak temporarily/permanent fix and oil change. When I get back from Canada will do TV wire replace and Toyota headlight kit.
 
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