Roof leak testing??

[Billygoat]

So I’ve been preparing information to do 3 things before I get the roof painted. 1. Do fiberglass repair, 2. Do complete sealing of water leaks, and 3 paint the roof, sprayer more likely.
Now on item 2 is where I have questions as such. Are there testing procedures that I can do to test my awning rails to test if they are sealed properly. I read how much of a bear this is to do if I get into it. And I have no idea if the PO’s did this already. If this is unavoidable and needs to be done, is it something I can handle or is it better for a body guy to do?

Thanks,
TG

 

[Seeburg220]

The soap bubble test works pretty well. It requires a strong fan, like this one I got from Home Depot. It has a vinyl hose that you can stuff in the side cockpit window and stuff a towel around it. Then take a sprayer with soapy water and go around every joint, marker light, roof rail, vent, etc. Spray the area and if there's a leak, the bubbles will show you. Just my .02.

BTW - this fan was about $190 and had to be ordered online. It has nearly 3k cfm. I borrowed a lower cfm fan and it wasn't strong enough to work.

 

[Billygoat]

The soap bubble test works pretty well. It requires a strong fan, like this one I got from Home Depot. It has a vinyl hose that you can stuff in the side cockpit window and stuff a towel around it. Then take a sprayer with soapy water and go around every joint, marker light, roof rail, vent, etc. Spray the area and if there's a leak, the bubbles will show you. Just my .02.

BTW - this fan was about $190 and had to be ordered online. It has nearly 3k cfm. I borrowed a lower cfm fan and it wasn't strong enough to work.

View attachment 16025

This is perfect, thanks so much. This will be interesting to see the results!

TG

 

[tmsnyder]

At least one of the regional clubs has a blower that rests on the roof, over a ceiling vent. It blows into the interior, pressurizing it so soapy water can be used on the outside to test for leaks.

 

[Richard RV]

At least one of the regional clubs has a blower that rests on the roof, over a ceiling vent. It blows into the interior, pressurizing it so soapy water can be used on the outside to test for leaks.

Some years back I used the Dixielanders' roof vent blower, worked well.



Bill Bryant has/had a furnace blower and a plywood panel for the cockpit sliding window, also worked well.

At a GMCMI there was a vendor selling leak detection as a service. Had a blower enclosure that sat on the floor directly under a vent and pressurized the coach by sucking air in through the vent opening. IIRC it was a $300+ service.

 

[Carl Stouffer]

If you were closer to Daphne, Alabama, I bet Bill Kittredge (who has custody of the Dixielander's blower) would be willing to help with this.

 

[Billygoat]

May be able to get the HF blower as a tester. May check with my club here in missouri as well.

 

[RJW]

Some years back I used the Dixielanders' roof vent blower, worked well.
View attachment 16035
View attachment 16036

Bill Bryant has/had a furnace blower and a plywood panel for the cockpit sliding window, also worked well.

At a GMCMI there was a vendor selling leak detection as a service. Had a blower enclosure that sat on the floor directly under a vent and pressurized the coach by sucking air in through the vent opening. IIRC it was a $300+ service.

I tried using the "Dixielanders" blower as shown at a Bean Station rally and couldn't get enough pressure/air flow to get any bubbles. I also built one with an old furnace blower and again couldn't get adequate flow to find leaks even though I know I have lots.

Next step I think I will order one of the more industrial fans with attached duct work and see if I can find my leaks.

 

[Billygoat]

I tried using the "Dixielanders" blower as shown at a Bean Station rally and couldn't get enough pressure/air flow to get any bubbles. I also built one with an old furnace blower and again couldn't get adequate flow to find leaks even though I know I have lots.

Next step I think I will order one of the more industrial fans with attached duct work and see if I can find my leaks.

It does beg the question on how much cfm is needed to complete the test properly. I think I’ll go with the HF setup Seaburg220 suggested.

 

[Billygoat]

The soap bubble test works pretty well. It requires a strong fan, like this one I got from Home Depot. It has a vinyl hose that you can stuff in the side cockpit window and stuff a towel around it. Then take a sprayer with soapy water and go around every joint, marker light, roof rail, vent, etc. Spray the area and if there's a leak, the bubbles will show you. Just my .02.

BTW - this fan was about $190 and had to be ordered online. It has nearly 3k cfm. I borrowed a lower cfm fan and it wasn't strong enough to work.

View attachment 16025

Well found out that my club has a pressure blower leak detection equipment to do the leak test. I really sm thinking I’ll have to go through the rail resealing. So been watching videos on this procedure and it looks horrible with the removal of the rusty screws. So with that I’m going to ask but understand I’ll get a big NO! But would it possible to seal at least the rails with the high adhesion roof sealing tape or will that cause more problems?

Thanks,
TG

 

[Richard RV]

Well found out that my club has a pressure blower leak detection equipment to do the leak test. I really sm thinking I’ll have to go through the rail resealing. So been watching videos on this procedure and it looks horrible with the removal of the rusty screws. So with that I’m going to ask but understand I’ll get a big NO! But would it possible to seal at least the rails with the high adhesion roof sealing tape or will that cause more problems?

Thanks,
TG

Eternabond tape and the like are quick to apply and work. They do not last forever and when it comes time to remove them... well, have a good supply of swear words on hand!

When I redid my roof rails I was _very_ careful and still broke 3 screws. Center drilled, screw extractor (didn't have left handed drill bits on hand) and they all came out fine.

If you go that way do _not_ tap the screw holes to clean them up - you do not want to remove metal. Use the proper thread forming screws like the OEM ones.