Drinking the Koolaide... 😊

[Tybalt39]

Getting ready to do the ceiling.


I decided to go with this retaining system rather than the H and J-channels I used for the walls (the same system used by Jim Bounds for his ceiling). The reason is that, if I ever need to get behind a ceiling panel, my way I just remove two rail and drop a panel vs. having to remove every panel installed ahead of the panel in question. And all of their retaining rails. Plus, I can put the panels in place now, then later (when the weather warms up) cover them with fabric and padding with minimal effort.

Purchased in bulk (x10), these rails are the same price as buying the H-channel from Home Depot. 92" each, cut as needed. Includes end-caps. No idea if I can use the caps, but I have them JIC.

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Update:
(May 12 2024)

Installed the first retaining rail. Yes, I used the end-caps. Looks good!

I'll place one every 4ft to minimize the number of ceiling panels to install. Only used 5 screws to match the curve of the ceiling. And yes, I'll paint the window trim grey to match the Panduit and rail cover at some point.

Update (June 9th 2024):

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I'll be using the Panduit caps for the wire raceways between the walls and ceiling.


Found this:

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Some have reported that it is too small and they could not get it to fit. My cable tray measures 3-3/16" with a caliper straight across the corners of the tray. Probably the same as what some have called a 3.25" tray. If you lay a tape measure across it the measure will bow a little and measure 3.25". The Panduit cover is 3-1/4" on the outside edges.

When I installed it on my GMC I found that I could hook the top of the cover over the top edge of the cable tray and then while pushing down on the top of the cover to bow the edge a little I could tap the bottom edge with a hammer and block of wood and get the cover to stretch a little so the bottom edge would bow out and snap onto the lower edge. It would probably help if you spray the area with some silicone spray before installing. With it installed the top and bottom of the cover are at a small angle to the face (i.e. greater than 90 degrees at the edge). But it looks great. It would probably be difficult to take it off once its installed but looks like it was made to go there. The original was about impossible to remove without breaking it off.

Emery Stora 77 Kingsley Frederick, CO

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I'll have to try this as mine didn't fit.

 

[Tybalt39]

New project: Replacing the steering wheel.
I am having difficulty getting the center horn button to function even after obtaining a new kit (metal cup, back spring disc, 3-hole plastic spacer). The circuit energizes if shorted, but the cup/spring won't operate properly.

My solution is to bypass that system entirely and use a steering wheel with horn "paddles" (switches) plugged into the horn "wiper" contact instead. I have located a newer leather-wrapped thicker steering wheel from a 85-95 Pontiac. Bonus: It has media controls that predate CANbus and airbags. They occupy the space reserved for airbags in later vehicles. I'll probably use a dummy panel to fill the space for now.

So, this solves the immediate issue and gives a more comfortable grip.

Now to drop the column using the adapter from McNeal.


The next question; can I locate the hardware that matches the new steering wheel to access the media controls? It's not a deal-breaker if I can't but it would be nice if I could use these buttons with an Android head-unit (probably require a signal adapter but those are common in the car audio industry). That requires:

• the turn-signal cancel cam with four "rings" and optical transmitters
  • Rings for horn/power/illumination, optical for data

• the turn-signal switch with four "wipers" and optical receiver

An article describing the system...

Apparently, I have the "Gen 2" components.

These items were installed from the mid 1980s to 1989. I have the cancel-cam; just need to dive into salvage yards to locate the turn-signal switch (they were apparently never offered in the parts-cloning world).

 

[Matt Colie]

Just get one of the signs I have seen around....

HORN Broken - Watch for Finger!!

Matt_C

 

[Tybalt39]

A successful weekend; many tasks completed and issues resolved (see original posts for details and pictures):

• Wipers are functional
• Steering wheel replaced and horns functional
• Passenger-side living area wall completed and fully covered
• First ceiling panel retention rail installed
• House wiring-channel Panduit cover installed

I'm having Kelvin D. build custom jack-knife sofa/storage bases for both sides of the "living" area. Materials have been obtained and delivered.

 

[Tybalt39]

Sofa bases installed! Used T-nuts in the floor so I can remove/re-install them as needed without damaging the floor. Same with attaching the sofa to the base. The fronts of the bases are open to allow Costco 27-gallon bins to be used as storage under them. The supports are angled inwards from the sofa to the floor to follow the shape of the bins and allow more foot-space when walking. It looks like the sofas are floating over the floor and there is a HUGE amount of aisle space. I may install doors at some point (that option was left open) but they aren't needed for function.

I had originally thought to move the benches a bit closer together in order to have them make a king-size bed when down, but I was convinced by Kelvin the larger aisle was more important (and the additional space between the back of the sofas and the walls looked goofy). I realized I could use heavy drawer-slides to allow the beds to move closer together as needed. Just have to design a latching mechanism to hold them in-place in each configuration.

The photos don't show the mounting system as they were taken before final installation.

 

[Tybalt39]

I decided to take some time and revisit some of the earlier posts now that I have a year's experience driving this coach. Glad I did! I can now appreciate some of the input more.

While the coach now tracks straight at highway speeds, there is vibration above around 50-55mph. As the tire shop (Discount) indicated they can't properly balance the old steel "dually" 16.5" steels without using outside weights (which don't allow the wheel covers to securely mount; I lost 4 of them just leaving the shop), I'm having them re-balanced at the shop that performed the alignment. They indicated they can straighten wheels and shave them if needed. Of course, now I recall the mention of Airsoft pellets in the tires....

Also, I'm uncomfortable with the amount of body-roll at speed; it feels like it will fall over when driving around curves at speed, or driving narrow two-lane roads with no shoulder and high centers (for rain run-off control). The front shocks were replaced last year with KYB. Previous comments seem to indicate a more "firm" ride with the four-bag rear suspension system. I'm getting more interested in that if it will reduce the roll. Thoughts?

Until the balancing is accomplished, I've been using country roads to get to camping locations to avoid the speed-vibration, but four-lane highway driving reduces the roll and has shoulders to improve my confidence. I really hope I get comfortable with this vehicle at highway speeds soon.... I find I can take my mind off of it if I focus farther down the road and hum remembered songs to myself....

UPDATE (July 1st):
After re-shaping and shaving the steel wheels and balancing the tires, the vibration at highway speeds is gone! I drove it at 60mph with no vibrations for an extended period yesterday. Now, to get used to gentle curves at highway speeds (I still slow down to 50-55 in curves )....

 

[tmsnyder]

I decided to take some time and revisit some of the earlier posts now that I have a year's experience driving this coach. Glad I did! I can now appreciate some of the input more.

While the coach now tracks straight at highway speeds, there is vibration above around 50-55mph. As the tire shop (Discount) indicated they can't properly balance the old steel "dually" 16.5" steels without using outside weights (which don't allow the wheel covers to securely mount; I lost 4 of them just leaving the shop), I'm having them re-balanced at the shop that performed the alignment. They indicated they can straighten wheels and shave them if needed. Of course, now I recall the mention of Airsoft pellets in the tires....

Also, I'm uncomfortable with the amount of body-roll at speed; it feels like it will fall over when driving around curves at speed, or driving narrow two-lane roads with no shoulder and high centers (for rain run-off control). The front shocks were replaced last year with KYB. Previous comments seem to indicate a more "firm" ride with the four-bag rear suspension system. I'm getting more interested in that if it will reduce the roll. Thoughts?

Until the balancing is accomplished, I've been using country roads to get to camping locations to avoid the speed-vibration, but four-lane highway driving reduces the roll and has shoulders to improve my confidence. I really hope I get comfortable with this vehicle at highway speeds soon.... I find I can take my mind off of it if I focus farther down the road and hum remembered songs to myself....

Did you get the ride height correct? It does affect the way it handles and drives down the road.

Is your front anti sway bar installed and connections all in good shape?

I have the old steel wheels also and also have a vibration at around 60 mph, so I try to avoid that speed. It seems to follow one particular wheel around the coach wherever I mount it. I just recently blew in Ken Tools balance beads from Fleet-Pride. Not sure if they will work or not but figured worth a try.

 

[RF_Burns]

I decided to take some time and revisit some of the earlier posts now that I have a year's experience driving this coach. Glad I did! I can now appreciate some of the input more.

While the coach now tracks straight at highway speeds, there is vibration above around 50-55mph. As the tire shop (Discount) indicated they can't properly balance the old steel "dually" 16.5" steels without using outside weights (which don't allow the wheel covers to securely mount; I lost 4 of them just leaving the shop), I'm having them re-balanced at the shop that performed the alignment. They indicated they can straighten wheels and shave them if needed. Of course, now I recall the mention of Airsoft pellets in the tires....

Also, I'm uncomfortable with the amount of body-roll at speed; it feels like it will fall over when driving around curves at speed, or driving narrow two-lane roads with no shoulder and high centers (for rain run-off control). The front shocks were replaced last year with KYB. Previous comments seem to indicate a more "firm" ride with the four-bag rear suspension system. I'm getting more interested in that if it will reduce the roll. Thoughts?

Until the balancing is accomplished, I've been using country roads to get to camping locations to avoid the speed-vibration, but four-lane highway driving reduces the roll and has shoulders to improve my confidence. I really hope I get comfortable with this vehicle at highway speeds soon.... I find I can take my mind off of it if I focus farther down the road and hum remembered songs to myself....

From 16 years of GMC ownership, Here are a couple of documents I posted in resources which may help you.
Ride Height:

My Thoughts on the GMC ride height specifications

My thoughts on why the GMC specs a lower ride height for the rear of the coach. Press the "Download" button on the top right hand side of the page to see the document.

www.gmcmotorhome.org

Very few alignment shops can check the alignment of our rear wheels. Here is my way of checking the alignment of the rear wheels (and fronts too)

Six wheel laser level wheel alignment

The attached PDF shows two methods I use to check the wheel alignment on all 6 wheels. This is an easy way to check toe and camber using a laser level with a digital angle display. Press the green "Download" button on the top right to get the PDF

www.gmcmotorhome.org

 

[Tybalt39]

Did you get the ride height correct? It does affect the way it handles and drives down the road.

Is your front anti sway bar installed and connections all in good shape?

I have the old steel wheels also and also have a vibration at around 60 mph, so I try to avoid that speed. It seems to follow one particular wheel around the coach wherever I mount it. I just recently blew in Ken Tools balance beads from Fleet-Pride. Not sure if they will work or not but figured worth a try.

Ride height was adjusted and measured at the time of the alignment. Kelvin D. provided a measuring "tool" to the shop. Two shops evaluated the steering components and replacements were installed and approved by both. It tracks down the road just fine; no adjustment of the steering-wheel needed at speeds below 45 and minimal adjustment over 45mph.

 

[tmsnyder]

Ride height was adjusted and measured at the time of the alignment. Kelvin D. provided a measuring "tool" to the shop. Two shops evaluated the steering components and replacements were installed and approved by both. It tracks down the road just fine; no adjustment of the steering-wheel needed at speeds below 45 and minimal adjustment over 45mph.

How about your sway bar?

 

[Tybalt39]

From 16 years of GMC ownership, Here are a couple of documents I posted in resources which may help you.
Ride Height:

My Thoughts on the GMC ride height specifications

My thoughts on why the GMC specs a lower ride height for the rear of the coach. Press the "Download" button on the top right hand side of the page to see the document.

www.gmcmotorhome.org

Very few alignment shops can check the alignment of our rear wheels. Here is my way of checking the alignment of the rear wheels (and fronts too)

Six wheel laser level wheel alignment

The attached PDF shows two methods I use to check the wheel alignment on all 6 wheels. This is an easy way to check toe and camber using a laser level with a digital angle display. Press the green "Download" button on the top right to get the PDF

www.gmcmotorhome.org

How about your sway bar?

No mention of it was made at either shop. Kelvin has been under the coach and has not mentioned it needing attention. So, I have not thought about it....

When I take it in for balancing in three weeks, I will have them look into it.

 

[tmsnyder]

No mention of it was made at either shop. Kelvin has been under the coach and has not mentioned it needing attention. So, I have not thought about it....

When I take it in for balancing in a couple of weeks, I will have them look into it.

Is there one?

 

[Tybalt39]

Is there one?

Is it a factory installed item? If so, it must be there or it would have been pointed-out by various persons. If it's an add-on, I will have to research it. Suggestions?

 

[tmsnyder]

Is it a factory installed item? If so, it must be there or it would have been pointed-out by various persons. If it's an add-on, I will have to research it. Suggestions?

For the body roll problem, there should be one on the front, from the factory across the front of the crossmember. If someone removed it, there would only be some bolt holes left behind. Unless they knew there was supposed to be one they would not notice it missing.

If you lay down under the front bumper you can see it easily if its there

 

[Tybalt39]

This?

 

[tmsnyder]

This?
View attachment 10964

Yes but it needs to be on the GMC to work

 

[pvfjr]

Another question, have you ever driven SOB (some other brand) of class A motorhome? I'm just curious what your expectations and perspective might be entering into this. It could be a factor. I had a 27' Thor before this. It had loose steering, blown factory supplemental airbags in the front coils, and bad swaybar bushings. I fixed everything that could be fixed and it was "better". But once I got into a GMC I was blown away by how well it cornered. But, I realize I'm comparing it to the other lumbering class A I've driven. I've also owned zero sports cars, and tons of old trucks. So maybe I have low standards, but I'm happy with how mine handle.

 

[Tybalt39]

Another question, have you ever driven SOB (some other brand) of class A motorhome? I'm just curious what your expectations and perspective might be entering into this. It could be a factor. I had a 27' Thor before this. It had loose steering, blown factory supplemental airbags in the front coils, and bad sway-bar bushings. I fixed everything that could be fixed and it was "better". But once I got into a GMC I was blown away by how well it cornered. But, I realize I'm comparing it to the other lumbering class A I've driven. I've also owned zero sports cars, and tons of old trucks. So maybe I have low standards, but I'm happy with how mine handle.

This may be my issue. I've driven "full-size" vehicles from '71, sub-compacts from '70 and '76, mid-size from '76, and then more modern subs and mid-size from the 80's to the 2000's. My daily driver is a Grand Cherokee from 2012. So, I have no experience with high centers of gravity. Heck, it took a while to get used to the Jeep after being so low to the ground my entire driving life.

I enjoy driving the GMC around town; very responsive, good brakes, and now it steers well. I guess (once I eliminate the vibration at highway speeds) I may simply need more time behind the wheel. As Jim Bounds says in today's videos (timely, right?!?), I'm probably over-correcting on less than perfectly flat roads.

 

[Tybalt39]

I have been noticing some oddities with the house DC wiring. Low voltage on some lighting lines. And when I dropped the ceiling to replace it (it was poorly installed by a PO), I noticed the original wiring for the fan wasn't used; the fan was spliced to the driver-side reading-light wires.

A little troubleshooting provided the answer; the 8-position fuse block/distribution panel in the cabinets had corroded. Some terminals were not putting out full voltage. After jumping the fan wire to another fuse, it tested live. The lines with low-voltage likewise.

While I would eventually like a combined AC/DC breaker/fuse box, for now I'll just get the DC side operational again.


Sometimes I really miss Radio Shack for simple electrical parts. Instead, I'm waiting on Amazon. But at least I can finish the ceiling-panel upgrade since I know the wires don't need to be replaced. And the fan is back on the proper cable and functional using the water-pump fuse position.

 

[pvfjr]

That looks like the same panel I put in my Glenbrook. No complaints. In fact, I believe there's another in my parts pile waiting to be installed in the Palm Beach. IIRC, the old panel in the Glenbrook was corroded and heading up where the fuse holders riveted to the bus bar. Burnt my finger one morning trying to figure out why the galley lights quit on me. You'll be glad to have those glass fuses gone. I sure was.