Think twice or do some reading/testing regarding the fan clutch. Some folks are of the opinion that an old fan clutch that works may be more reliable than a new one. I've had luck with my new Hayden HD so far, but many others haven't.
76 Edgemonte Build
- Thread starter odintech
- Start date
In this case I never heard the fan get loud when I overheated so I suspect it is bad. But I will be using a new Hayden Severe duty fan clutch and keep a spare just in case.
If you reach in there and spin it freely when cold, it's shot.
If you don't hear it roar when you first fire it up, then hear it go quiet after several seconds of roaring, it's shot.
Well, one thing while the coach was hauled here the awning decided to teach itself to fly. So next year a new one from ZipDee will be sourced. The one that came with the coach was a carefree of Colorado unit.
So got the engine running again but the oil pressure is super low at 25 psi cold start 1200 RPM. Which most likely means I’ve toasted the bearings hopefully no more than that. Going to work on pulling the engine and getting it rebuilt. Unless there’s other suggestions.
What is the reading hot at idle and at 2000 rpm?
How are you reading it? A mechanical gauge?
Hadn't thought about that. Ill see what it does when at operating temp. Engine is noisier than it should be. Hoping it is lifters and not rod knock.30W is a little thin for summers in Utah, it's in the 90s today25psi doesn't seem so bad to me at idle.
I know that you have a lot on your plate, but something to consider if you have what is known as a "horse collar" fan shroud: http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/fan_shroud/fanshroud10.htm
I do have the original Horse collar. I was going to make this mod this year. Still might. Thanks!
Jason,
25 psi should be plenty to fill the lifters. Lifter (lash adjuster) noise will not vary with load. If the noise is a hard knock that increases with load, then it can be a rod knock. It should at least be investigated. Unfortunately, getting the pan down with the engine in place is a really tough job.
Matt_C
25 psi should be plenty to fill the lifters. Lifter (lash adjuster) noise will not vary with load. If the noise is a hard knock that increases with load, then it can be a rod knock. It should at least be investigated. Unfortunately, getting the pan down with the engine in place is a really tough job.
Matt_C
Could be a collapsed lifter. I had one do that out of the blue. The drivers side valve cover is easy to get off, pull it and see if any pushrods are loose. Passenger side is a little harder b/c the A/C bracket is over the top of it iirc, but still do-able.
Got the results of the oil filter cut open. “Lots of metallic pieces. Felt like sand. Looks like copper/brass among other metals.” looks like it’s rebuild/overhaul city for this poor beastie.
Paul,
I know you mean well, but trying to do a peek-in diagnosis at this time is probably a wasted effort. It sounds to me like Jason has three choices to to decide between.
1- Out the top - Requires a lot of disassembly before it fits and it has to come out thought the coach interior.
2- Out the bottom - Requires you can get the coach high enough to clear things. Great if you have a lift.
3- Out the front - Requires a lot of disassembly of the body, but you can test run the engine before you put it back in. This is my (and Dave L's) favorite.
Jason,
Please be sure of two things:
1- There is a proper and complete build book no matter who does the work.
2- You come back here and tell us what you found.
Matt_C
I know you mean well, but trying to do a peek-in diagnosis at this time is probably a wasted effort. It sounds to me like Jason has three choices to to decide between.
1- Out the top - Requires a lot of disassembly before it fits and it has to come out thought the coach interior.
2- Out the bottom - Requires you can get the coach high enough to clear things. Great if you have a lift.
3- Out the front - Requires a lot of disassembly of the body, but you can test run the engine before you put it back in. This is my (and Dave L's) favorite.
Jason,
Please be sure of two things:
1- There is a proper and complete build book no matter who does the work.
2- You come back here and tell us what you found.
Matt_C
Thanks Matt. It is coming out for overhaul one way or another. I like the idea of the subframe removal but I'm sure the storage yard would be put out with me if I started taking it apart there. Build Book?
Jason,
You could pull the front frame out and let the coach back to ride height and balance the front tires there while you haul the whole assembly off on a small trailer. You can hang the grill back in with duck tape and stand the bumper on a couple of 2*4s.
In a proper rebuild of an engine everything should be recorded. All part numbers and suppliers of said parts and the validation of assembled clearances and notes of critical measurements. It isn't all that tough and all these values should be known. It only takes a couple of pages of spreadsheet to do this.
Matt_C
You could pull the front frame out and let the coach back to ride height and balance the front tires there while you haul the whole assembly off on a small trailer. You can hang the grill back in with duck tape and stand the bumper on a couple of 2*4s.
In a proper rebuild of an engine everything should be recorded. All part numbers and suppliers of said parts and the validation of assembled clearances and notes of critical measurements. It isn't all that tough and all these values should be known. It only takes a couple of pages of spreadsheet to do this.
Matt_C
