Window Rail

dave lowry

New member
Jul 7, 1998
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The vertical "rail" (as its called in the parts book) holds the fixed half
of the window against the frame. Mine came loose, allowing the glass to
slide rearward enough to leave a 1/4" gap between the front edge of the
fixed pane and the frame. My son-in-law removed the rubber seal, moved the
glass and the rail forward to their original position, applied some butyl
sealer and replaced the seal. However, while we expected to find screws at
the top an bottom of the rail,it appeared it was only heald in place by the
sealer, no screws.

Did we miss something, or is this something I need to monitor regularly?

Its my intent to take the coach to an auto glass shop to have all the
living area sliding windows "reset" to prevent a recurrence and reduce the
liklihood of leaks. Am I on the right track?

Dave (advisor/navigator) & Dege (ALL else), '76 Royale, Santa Barbara, CA
 
I've been told that pop rivets should be in the top and bottom. In my case I
didn't have anything to keep the window from sliding back. Max at Buskrik
showed me how to put the rivets in I think the rivets were a later
innovation. My '76 GMC was built in December 1975 and it was built without
rivets or screws to hold the windows in place.
Richard Waters
1976 PB, Troy, MI

> The vertical "rail" (as its called in the parts book) holds the fixed half
> of the window against the frame. Mine came loose, allowing the glass to
> slide rearward enough to leave a 1/4" gap between the front edge of the
> fixed pane and the frame. My son-in-law removed the rubber seal, moved the
> glass and the rail forward to their original position, applied some butyl
> sealer and replaced the seal. However, while we expected to find screws at
> the top an bottom of the rail,it appeared it was only heald in place by the
> sealer, no screws.
>
> Did we miss something, or is this something I need to monitor regularly?
>
> Its my intent to take the coach to an auto glass shop to have all the
> living area sliding windows "reset" to prevent a recurrence and reduce the
> liklihood of leaks. Am I on the right track?
>
> Dave (advisor/navigator) & Dege (ALL else), '76 Royale, Santa Barbara, CA
 
>I've been told that pop rivets should be in the top and bottom. In my case I
>didn't have anything to keep the window from sliding back. Max at Buskrik
>showed me how to put the rivets in I think the rivets were a later
>innovation. My '76 GMC was built in December 1975 and it was built without
>rivets or screws to hold the windows in place.
>Richard Waters
>1976 PB, Troy, MI

Good point Richard. My 77 did have the rivets in that vertical rail
at both the top and bottom and I'm sure they were from the factory
that way.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM