Window latch dilemma

gmcnet1

Member
Apr 23, 2019
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I have a 77 Eleganza II and the PO left a metal latch for the bedroom/living area windows in a spare parts box (see linked album below for all
photos). I assume this is one of the original latches and that the installed plastic ones are replacements. If anyone has 3 or 4 of these metal
latches they'd be willing to part with, please let me know as they seem to be superior to the plastic ones. Here's how I came to that conclusion:

I purchased a new plastic latch (Hehr H695) to replace one that had broken. In order to make it fit, I had to trim some plastic from each end of the
wedge-shaped latch mechanism so that it could slide into the existing strike plate. There are also two L-shaped pieces above and below the latch
mechanism that are designed to hook behind the strike plate and prevent anyone from defeating the latch by spreading the windows apart. Unfortunately
the L-shaped pieces don't work with the existing strike plate, so they also need to be removed to allow the latch mechanism to sit deeper in the
strike plate. Alternatively it might be possible to modify the strike plate with a Dremel tool in order to allow the L-shaped pieces to hook behind
it, but I wouldn't want to try this due to the risk of ruining the strike plate or the whole window (the strike plate is spot-welded to the window
frame).

So, the modified-to-fit plastic latches are barely better than no latch at all. Once you spread the windows apart about 1/8", all you need is
something that provides enough sideways leverage to slide the window (e.g a hunk of duct tape or a suction cup) and you can open it from the outside.
The original latches are nice because they're all metal with a sliding lock that fits behind the existing strike plate, thus preventing the windows
from being spread apart. I acknowledge that a good-sized rock can make this whole exercise moot, but besides using metal latches are there any
alternatives besides switching over to the beautiful, flush-fit, fixed windows?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VWbweb427AiQePPb8
 
Being able to open those big sliders from the outside is not a bad thing
when you leave your keys in the ignition and lock the door as you exit the
coach. Like I did at Potato Creek Campground a few years ago. I bribed a
kid with a GMC chocolate bar to go through the window on my coach and
retrieve my keys. Kid thought it was a great adventure.
Jim Hupy

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 2:31 PM gmcnet--- via Gmclist
wrote:

> I have a 77 Eleganza II and the PO left a metal latch for the
> bedroom/living area windows in a spare parts box (see linked album below
> for all
> photos). I assume this is one of the original latches and that the
> installed plastic ones are replacements. If anyone has 3 or 4 of these metal
> latches they'd be willing to part with, please let me know as they seem to
> be superior to the plastic ones. Here's how I came to that conclusion:
>
> I purchased a new plastic latch (Hehr H695) to replace one that had
> broken. In order to make it fit, I had to trim some plastic from each end
> of the
> wedge-shaped latch mechanism so that it could slide into the existing
> strike plate. There are also two L-shaped pieces above and below the latch
> mechanism that are designed to hook behind the strike plate and prevent
> anyone from defeating the latch by spreading the windows apart.
> Unfortunately
> the L-shaped pieces don't work with the existing strike plate, so they
> also need to be removed to allow the latch mechanism to sit deeper in the
> strike plate. Alternatively it might be possible to modify the strike
> plate with a Dremel tool in order to allow the L-shaped pieces to hook
> behind
> it, but I wouldn't want to try this due to the risk of ruining the strike
> plate or the whole window (the strike plate is spot-welded to the window
> frame).
>
> So, the modified-to-fit plastic latches are barely better than no latch at
> all. Once you spread the windows apart about 1/8", all you need is
> something that provides enough sideways leverage to slide the window (e.g
> a hunk of duct tape or a suction cup) and you can open it from the outside.
> The original latches are nice because they're all metal with a sliding
> lock that fits behind the existing strike plate, thus preventing the windows
> from being spread apart. I acknowledge that a good-sized rock can make
> this whole exercise moot, but besides using metal latches are there any
> alternatives besides switching over to the beautiful, flush-fit, fixed
> windows?
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/VWbweb427AiQePPb8
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Believe It or Not: A few years back, at a GMC rally in Ft. Meyers, FL, I
helped a GMC owner retrieve his locked-in keys. How? I provided the
hand-step so he could climb in through the Cockpit Window! TRUE!!! And
he's a full-grown retiree! :-)

Ken H.

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 6:39 PM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> Being able to open those big sliders from the outside is not a bad thing
> when you leave your keys in the ignition and lock the door as you exit the
> coach. Like I did at Potato Creek Campground a few years ago. I bribed a
> kid with a GMC chocolate bar to go through the window on my coach and
> retrieve my keys. Kid thought it was a great adventure.
> Jim Hupy
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 2:31 PM gmcnet--- via Gmclist <
> gmclist>

>
> > I have a 77 Eleganza II and the PO left a metal latch for the
> > bedroom/living area windows in a spare parts box (see linked album below
> > for all
> > photos). I assume this is one of the original latches and that the
> > installed plastic ones are replacements. If anyone has 3 or 4 of these
> metal
> > latches they'd be willing to part with, please let me know as they seem
> to
> > be superior to the plastic ones. Here's how I came to that conclusion:
> >
> > I purchased a new plastic latch (Hehr H695) to replace one that had
> > broken. In order to make it fit, I had to trim some plastic from each end
> > of the
> > wedge-shaped latch mechanism so that it could slide into the existing
> > strike plate. There are also two L-shaped pieces above and below the
> latch
> > mechanism that are designed to hook behind the strike plate and prevent
> > anyone from defeating the latch by spreading the windows apart.
> > Unfortunately
> > the L-shaped pieces don't work with the existing strike plate, so they
> > also need to be removed to allow the latch mechanism to sit deeper in the
> > strike plate. Alternatively it might be possible to modify the strike
> > plate with a Dremel tool in order to allow the L-shaped pieces to hook
> > behind
> > it, but I wouldn't want to try this due to the risk of ruining the strike
> > plate or the whole window (the strike plate is spot-welded to the window
> > frame).
> >
> > So, the modified-to-fit plastic latches are barely better than no latch
> at
> > all. Once you spread the windows apart about 1/8", all you need is
> > something that provides enough sideways leverage to slide the window (e.g
> > a hunk of duct tape or a suction cup) and you can open it from the
> outside.
> > The original latches are nice because they're all metal with a sliding
> > lock that fits behind the existing strike plate, thus preventing the
> windows
> > from being spread apart. I acknowledge that a good-sized rock can make
> > this whole exercise moot, but besides using metal latches are there any
> > alternatives besides switching over to the beautiful, flush-fit, fixed
> > windows?
> >
> > https://photos.app.goo.gl/VWbweb427AiQePPb8
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>