WHERE TO INSERT BLOCKING AT THE BOGIES

Matt Colie

Matt Colie

Well-known member
Aug 15, 2008
11,101
807
113
South East Michigan near DTW
> Hello! We're heading out for vacation shortly and sadly without the GMC. This will be the first time I won't have a chance to re-inflate the bags
> so I'm looking to put in some wood blocks under the bogies while I am away.
> Apologies but my short search did not come up with a photo of were EXACTLY to place the wood blocks.
> I don't want to mesh anything up. Does anyone have a photo or clear description of where to block under the bogies?
> I have to run up to the storage lot and don't want make several trips.
>
> THANK YOU....!
> G

Grant,

No rocket science here, just place them under that bogie casting. The same place you would put a floor jack if you needed to.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt,
Cut a 2x4 15" long and lay it on top of the boggie case and release the
jack,
Since it is not going to be moving much, no need to knotch the ends a
little.

> > Hello! We're heading out for vacation shortly and sadly without the GMC.
> This will be the first time I won't have a chance to re-inflate the bags
> > so I'm looking to put in some wood blocks under the bogies while I am
> away.
> > Apologies but my short search did not come up with a photo of were
> EXACTLY to place the wood blocks.
> > I don't want to mesh anything up. Does anyone have a photo or clear
> description of where to block under the bogies?
> > I have to run up to the storage lot and don't want make several trips.
> >
> > THANK YOU....!
> > G
>
> Grant,
>
> No rocket science here, just place them under that bogie casting. The
> same place you would put a floor jack if you needed to.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Jim Kanomata ASE
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Grant,

If they open the border, maybe you can make it to the international. Worth doing if you can.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
The two by four are mounted horizontal

> Grant,
>
> If they open the border, maybe you can make it to the international.
> Worth doing if you can.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Jim Kanomata ASE
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
 
> Matt,
> Cut a 2x4 15" long and lay it on top of the boggie case and release the
> jack,
> Since it is not going to be moving much, no need to knotch the ends a
> little.
>
>
> Jim Kanomata ASE
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.gmcrvparts.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

I'm sorry, but I cannot picture in my pea brain what and where that 2X4 goes and why. Please explain and maybe a pic?
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
> I'm sorry, but I cannot picture in my pea brain what and where that 2X4 goes and why. Please explain and maybe a pic?
>

> The two by four are mounted horizontal
> Cut a 2x4 15" long and lay it on top of the boggie case and release the jack,
> Since it is not going to be moving much, no need to knotch the ends a little.

Larry,

What Jim is saying is to cut a 2x4 15" long and lay it on the top of the bogie casting when the coach is jacked or aired up to a good height.
This will put it between the vertical parts of the swing arms. When the load is lowered, that piece will stop the lowering and be trapped in there.
This could be a problem with many of the non-OE suspension modifications.

I like this idea, but I have never done this. In my years of moving heavy stuff, we always used blocks or cribbing under the load. So, I usually
just air up the suspension and pile my shoring blocks of which I have more than a few around the barn under the bogie casting. My system is now tight
enough that I have to let it down if I want it down.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
I've got 2 pieces of 6"x6" cut to the height beneath the normal bogie
height. A cabinet handle on each makes it easy to maneuver. When I
installed the Manny Reaction Arms, the center pivot mounting bolt
interfered with those blocks until I cut a bolt-head-width slot across the
top of each. I've never been able to stop ALL my leaks, so those blocks
always go under when I'm parking for a long time.

Ken H.

> > I'm sorry, but I cannot picture in my pea brain what and where that 2X4
> goes and why. Please explain and maybe a pic?
> >

> > The two by four are mounted horizontal
> > Cut a 2x4 15" long and lay it on top of the boggie case and release the
> jack,
> > Since it is not going to be moving much, no need to knotch the ends a
> little.
>
> Larry,
>
> What Jim is saying is to cut a 2x4 15" long and lay it on the top of the
> bogie casting when the coach is jacked or aired up to a good height.
> This will put it between the vertical parts of the swing arms. When the
> load is lowered, that piece will stop the lowering and be trapped in there.
> This could be a problem with many of the non-OE suspension modifications.
>
> I like this idea, but I have never done this. In my years of moving heavy
> stuff, we always used blocks or cribbing under the load. So, I usually
> just air up the suspension and pile my shoring blocks of which I have more
> than a few around the barn under the bogie casting. My system is now tight
> enough that I have to let it down if I want it down.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
This is the first time I've heard of using a 2x4 block just above the bogey box casting. Trying to get my head around the forces involved.

It seems to me that the ~2000# wheel load acting on the ~18" horizontal bogey arm lever would potentially crush the end of the 2x4 which has to
counteract that same load but using a much shorter (maybe ~6"?) lever arm along the vertical bogey arm. That would put the load on the 2x4 very close
to the ultimate crushing strength, of say Doug-Fir, parallel to the grain. The curved bogey arm wouldn't present much bearing area initially, but
would compress and potentially start cracking along the grain.

Again, first time hearing about this and I have no experience with it and Jim K does. Anyone else use the word block above the bogey box?

If there's no danger of the wood crushing and splitting it certainly would be the fastest way to relieve pressure on the airbags. Blocking under the
bogey boxes and relieving pressure on the airbags takes more time, but takes pressure off of both the airbags and tires.

Richard
--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemonte waiting its turn
 
> This is the first time I've heard of using a 2x4 block just above the bogey box casting. Trying to get my head around the forces involved.
>
> It seems to me that the ~2000# wheel load acting on the ~18" horizontal bogey arm lever would potentially crush the end of the 2x4 which has to
> counteract that same load but using a much shorter (maybe ~6"?) lever arm along the vertical bogey arm. That would put the load on the 2x4 very
> close to the ultimate crushing strength, of say Doug-Fir, parallel to the grain. The curved bogey arm wouldn't present much bearing area initially,
> but would compress and potentially start cracking along the grain.
>
> Again, first time hearing about this and I have no experience with it and Jim K does. Anyone else use the word block above the bogey box?
>
> If there's no danger of the wood crushing and splitting it certainly would be the fastest way to relieve pressure on the airbags. Blocking under
> the bogey boxes and relieving pressure on the airbags takes more time, but takes pressure off of both the airbags and tires.
>
> Richard

I also am not understanding how the above the bogey arm blocking works. Ever since day one, 23 years ago, I've just put some 4x4 and 2x4 x ~ 24"
pieces under each casting to desired height. I pretty much use wood cribbing to support the coach, rather than jack stands which I think could move,
when I work under the coach.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water
heaters.
 
Uh, there's NO WAY a 2x4 would do anything if put on top of the airbags, the bags are significantly bigger than the bogie mounts, even the cones are bigger.

If there was no airbag, then it could work, but I'd rather use a 4x4.
Or maybe you could put something below the bags? Kinda weird though

Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View MN
76 exRoyale
MicroLevelhttp://www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com/vasilakes/microlevel_intro.pdf

________________________________
From: RJW
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2021 11:27 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: WHERE TO INSERT BLOCKING AT THE BOGIES

> This is the first time I've heard of using a 2x4 block just above the bogey box casting. Trying to get my head around the forces involved.
>
> It seems to me that the ~2000# wheel load acting on the ~18" horizontal bogey arm lever would potentially crush the end of the 2x4 which has to
> counteract that same load but using a much shorter (maybe ~6"?) lever arm along the vertical bogey arm. That would put the load on the 2x4 very
> close to the ultimate crushing strength, of say Doug-Fir, parallel to the grain. The curved bogey arm wouldn't present much bearing area initially,
> but would compress and potentially start cracking along the grain.
>
> Again, first time hearing about this and I have no experience with it and Jim K does. Anyone else use the word block above the bogey box?
>
> If there's no danger of the wood crushing and splitting it certainly would be the fastest way to relieve pressure on the airbags. Blocking under
> the bogey boxes and relieving pressure on the airbags takes more time, but takes pressure off of both the airbags and tires.
>
> Richard

I also am not understanding how the above the bogey arm blocking works. Ever since day one, 23 years ago, I've just put some 4x4 and 2x4 x ~ 24"
pieces under each casting to desired height. I pretty much use wood cribbing to support the coach, rather than jack stands which I think could move,
when I work under the coach.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.comhttp://www.PalmBeachGMC.com

Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water
heaters.
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GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
!5" and when you put in a slight notch , the curved upright will not split
the wood.
I have had several do it as a last resort.
The Q Bag does not interfere, only the Paddle of a anotherdesign, in that
case remove the paddle.
I personally have traveled 120 miles that way.

> Uh, there's NO WAY a 2x4 would do anything if put on top of the airbags,
> the bags are significantly bigger than the bogie mounts, even the cones are
> bigger.
>
> If there was no airbag, then it could work, but I'd rather use a 4x4.
> Or maybe you could put something below the bags? Kinda weird though
>
> Keith Vasilakes
> Mounds View MN
> 76 exRoyale
> MicroLevel<
> http://www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com/vasilakes/microlevel_intro.pdf>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: RJW
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 2021 11:27 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: [GMCnet] Re: WHERE TO INSERT BLOCKING AT THE BOGIES
>

> > This is the first time I've heard of using a 2x4 block just above the
> bogey box casting. Trying to get my head around the forces involved.
> >
> > It seems to me that the ~2000# wheel load acting on the ~18" horizontal
> bogey arm lever would potentially crush the end of the 2x4 which has to
> > counteract that same load but using a much shorter (maybe ~6"?) lever
> arm along the vertical bogey arm. That would put the load on the 2x4 very
> > close to the ultimate crushing strength, of say Doug-Fir, parallel to
> the grain. The curved bogey arm wouldn't present much bearing area
> initially,
> > but would compress and potentially start cracking along the grain.
> >
> > Again, first time hearing about this and I have no experience with it
> and Jim K does. Anyone else use the word block above the bogey box?
> >
> > If there's no danger of the wood crushing and splitting it certainly
> would be the fastest way to relieve pressure on the airbags. Blocking under
> > the bogey boxes and relieving pressure on the airbags takes more time,
> but takes pressure off of both the airbags and tires.
> >
> > Richard
>
> I also am not understanding how the above the bogey arm blocking works.
> Ever since day one, 23 years ago, I've just put some 4x4 and 2x4 x ~ 24"
> pieces under each casting to desired height. I pretty much use wood
> cribbing to support the coach, rather than jack stands which I think could
> move,
> when I work under the coach.
>
> --
> Richard
> 76 Palm Beach
> SE Michigan
> www.PalmBeachGMC.comhttp://www.PalmBeachGMC.com
>
>
> Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum
> system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water
> heaters.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Jim Kanomata ASE
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
 
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