Jerry
Paragraph 4, second word - should that be camber?
Dennis
> Hi Les and others,
>
> That standoff and alignment tool (or any of the bubble level tools of a similar design) will work just fine on a level surface if the standoffs
> don't flex too much. If the coach is on a pad that is not level you need to find a way to establish level relative to the pad. With those
> standoffs you can also use an inexpensive cube digital angle finder instead of the more expensive bubble level contraption as it has an ability to
> zero to the pad built in and is more accurate than your eyeballs trying to read a bubble level.
>
> The most important thing for a gmc is to get all six wheels frame parallel before you do anything else. While that can be done with strings and
> such, it is much easier to do with a laser and target that indexes to the frame. Simply fit a laser torpedo level so it will magnetically attach to
> the standoff on the same center surface where the bubble level attaches. Place your target (anything the laser can see that will reach under and
> touch the frame for reference) and note where the laser hits when the target is close to the wheel being checked and when the target is as far away
> from that wheel as you can get and still reference the frame. Adjust the wheel until the laser hits the target in the same place and that wheel
> will be frame parallel. When all six wheels are frame parallel then you can set camber caster and toe as you wish.
>
> I found most Gmc's with radial ply tires will drive well with as much caster as you can get and be the same on both sides. For most stock Gmc
> front ends that will be around 2 degrees. With offset bushing on the rear of the upper A arms, around 3-4 degrees. With the one ton front end or
> modified upper control arms maybe a bit more but do not exceed 4-5 degrees or you risk over stressing the front end during low speed turns.
>
> Front caster should be as close to zero as you can get and be the same on both sides. I also found zero toe to be good for most Gmc's. If your
> front end is a bit loose, some will recommend dialing in some toe to compensate for the tendency of the wheels to flair on a front wheel drive
> vehicle under acceleration.
>
> On the rear four tires adjust to about 1 degree tire top in camber with the wheels frame parallel.
>
> Reach those objectives and your gmc will drive one finger on the wheel. Center the steering box before you do the rest and it will drive even
> better. As Alex F. has shown there are a bunch of ways the sliding element, u joint and lower mount can go together and only one is correct to
> properly center the steering box. If you don't know how to do that, then put the two front wheels on plastic bags (to reduce the turning friction),
> turn the steering wheel all the way to one side, then count the turns required to turn all the way to the other side and turn the wheel back half
> that number of turns to find something approaching a centered steering box.
>
> If your front end components are old, worn and loose all bets are off when it comes to alignment.
>
> Jerry
>
> Jerry Work
> The Dovetail Joint
> Fine furniture designed & hand crafted
> in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
> in historic Kerby, OR
>
http://jerrywork.com
> .........
> Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2017 11:22:59 -0400
> From: Les Burt
> To: Gmclist
> Subject: [GMCnet] Wheel alignment tools
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Some may find the following tools of interest now that Gerry Work is no-longer producing his alignment kit.
>
>
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Schwaben_Professional_Magnetic_Camber_Caster_gauge_13159
>
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal
> '75 Eleganza 26'
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--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
